White Metal Kits Back To Components

[RoyalClaud]

I have recently acquired some partially assembled white metal Geen tank wagon kits that have sustained some damage to their chassis. 

The previous construction appears to have been made with cyano. 

To try and sort out the problems, I would like to separate the assembled chassis’ back to component parts but am unsure how to do this without causing further irretrievable damage to the castings. 

Therefore I am seeking advice from RMWebers as to how best to tackle this. 

Thanks in advance. 

RN

[Il Grifone]

A solvent for cyano is available from its suppliers, but acetone will usually work. Gloves are advised!

[Phil Parker]

Acetone (nail varnish remover) should work, but I'd be inclined to dunk the lot in Nitromoors or similar paint stripper. I returned a K's 1361 to component form this way once, finding the missing cab back that had been fixed in the bottom of the bunker for some unfathomable reason.

[Il Grifone]

I'd try the acetone first. Nitromors is nasty stuff and gloves are essential. It will remove any paint at the same time of course  (usually - it doesn't  seem as good as used to be).

[hayfield]

Equally nasty stuff which works on cyano, epoxy and that stuff which looks like Evostick is  "caustic soda" read the instructions carefully,

 

I leave the items in the shed for 24 hours. remove the wheels first as Ali dissolves and worst creates poisonous gasses  

 

Whilst in my local (independent) DIY store I noticed in with the glue selection was a bottle of cyano solvent

 

Sometimes holding the castings in steam works with some glues and low melt solder

Edited August 15, 2019 by hayfield

[bike2steam]

Acetone is good, but beware it is also a carcinogen, use it with a good strong extractor fan . Nitromors is good, but I use Nitromors 'Craftsman', it penetrates into the corners better.

[Paul Cram]

Brake fluid works on a lot of glues

[RoyalClaud]

Thanks to all for your assistance.

Tried standing a chassis submerged in a bath of acetone, taking all necessary safety precautions, for 24 hours but did not touch whatever adhesive has been used.

They do not appear to be soldered so may have to resort to more “physical” methods and make good thereafter.

 

RN

[polybear]

Try immersing in boiling water (not touching the bottom of the pan) - that'll soon confirm if they're soldered or not, assuming low-melt was used.  Failing that, try the other methods used before brute force, which'll no doubt risk distortion (or worse) to the castings.

 

[Graham456]

On 14/08/2019 at 22:37, Il Grifone said:

I'd try the acetone first. Nitromors is nasty stuff and gloves are essential. It will remove any paint at the same time of course  (usually - it doesn't  seem as good as used to be).

 It isn't as good as it used to be! 

And that's because the nasty stuff (methlinechloride) has been removed

but still treat it with respect 

[Dunsignalling]

I once used a proprietary paste "Modelstrip" to remove a dodgy paint job from a Millholme Z Class 0-8-0T I'd acquired. It had been assembled using epoxy resin rather than CA but, after a night encased in a plastic bag the airing cupboard as per the instructions, I had a kit! 

 

I'd think CA should be a doddle to dissolve compared to Araldite, so if the stuff is still available, I'd recommend it.

 

Another trick I've seen described to dismantle loco bodies assembled with CA is to place them in the freezer for a day or two and dunk in hottish water upon removal. Gets most things apart, I gather, though there's still cleaning up required.

 

John  

Edited August 18, 2019 by Dunsignalling

[Tex]

All chemicals are dangerous, including water, if they are not respected and used appropriately.  Some on this forum are known to enjoy ethanol/water mixtures...…., even then, there are choice to be made with its use that are guided by the potential hazards that can ensue.  Most solvents, but not all, because they are relatively volatile, are usually more hazardous through inhalation resulting in light headedness or because they are flammable.   If you want to know the potential hazards of any chemicals (solvents) that are routinely used in modelling, along with guidance on their safe use then check out their material data safety sheet (MSDS).  These MSDS files can be found simply by googling the solvent.  

 

To the best of my knowledge, acetone is not a carcinogen but should be used in a well ventilated area to avoid vapor build ups which can be problematic.

 

TexCHEM

[Tex]

10 hours ago, Graham456 said:

 It isn't as good as it used to be! 

And that's because the nasty stuff (methlinechloride) has been removed

but still treat it with respect 

Methylene chloride (dichloromethane)

[Graham456]

On 18/08/2019 at 19:23, Tex said:

Methylene chloride (dichloromethane)

However it's spelt it's no longer in nitomors which is why it's not so effective.