Tunnel Portals for Double Track (Curved)

[Rob.]

I'm looking for a set of Tunnel Portals for a Double Track (curved).

OO Gauge.

 

A base width of about 150 mm at the tunnel mouth- any of the standard ones l can find are too tight for a curved track- preferably grey.

 

I can't see any for curved track on-line anywhere.

 

I hope someone can help !!

[teaky]

150mm is wide enough for three 00 gauge tracks.  Have you considered using bridge sides?  They would be of similar dimensions to a tunnel portal but without the turn in at the base.

 

An example: https://peco-uk.com/products/road-bridge-side-double-track-stone?_pos=15&_sid=6de92e9ab&_ss=r&variant=7435694342178

 

[EWS60065]

I had the same problem as you and had to bodge a metcalfe tunnel entrance (widened it by cannibalising another one) 

[DCB]

Full size railways had the same issue and had some very strange shaped tunnel portals, Dawlish to Teignmouth on the GWR especially as they were single track broad gauge and were widened to take double track standard gauge.

What curves are you using?   Peco streamline gives 50mm spacing which plus 9ft for the stock width gives 86mm.  It may be possible to reduce the track centres at the tunnel mouth, you just need enough clearance so your worst loco for front overhang, probably a King on the inside doesn't clout the side of your worst coach for middle overhang.   Of course if you run out of gauge stock, H/D Breakdown crane and Mail coach you are basically stuffed

Which bits of the stock hit?  It may be that raising the track stops the truss bars on pre BR stock fouling.   Not all tunnel mouths are circular, many are squared off and if its a scenic break a road bridge is just as good in many respects.

To make a tunnel work visually make sure the inside is dark. Really dark. Black.  Continuing the walls a decent distance into the hidden bit helps. I was watching a train disappear into one of my tunnels yesterday and the way the shadow envelops the train as it moves from sunlight to the tunnel  was very noticeable

[Pete the Elaner]

37 minutes ago, DavidCBroad said:

 

To make a tunnel work visually make sure the inside is dark. Really dark. Black.  Continuing the walls a decent distance into the hidden bit helps.

Agree agree agree. Tunnels are very dark & trains should disappear into darkness. Even normally weathered ballast looks too light on a model. I made up tubes about 18" long with black card to help with the darkness.

 

The tunnel mouth itself is a real dilemna. Real tunnels are usually a lot skinnier than anything produced commercially. They are usually quite tall too, to cope with clearing smoke which may not be an issue now, but it was when they were built.

I wanted the opposite to you: tall, skinny tunnel mouths to exactly represent those at the location I am modelling. There was nothing commercially available which was suitable for me so I got them laser cut. I was fortunate to have a friend who could do the artwork.

[Harlequin]

I guess the overhangs of long vehicles going around the curve into the tunnel mouth are the issue.

 

It's pretty easy to make you own portal: Cut a bit of stiff card or hardboard to shape and cover it in brick or stone paper. Do something to edge the opening properly with a keystone at the top. Maybe add some details like parapets and stone capping along the top.

 

Or instead of covering with brick/stone paper, cover the surface with a thin layer of filler and when it's dried scribe out some stonework (possibly easier to detail the opening edge properly that way) and then paint it.

 

Edited August 23, 2019 by Harlequin