Brian Kirby Uncoupling method

[Bill37]

What method is recommended to attach the staple to the Bachmann coupling tail?

I have tried superglue but it doesn't seem to be very secure and tried soldering but that was a non starter.

 

Bill.

[michaelp]

Try 5 minute epoxy

[Bill37]

Thanks for that Michaelp, I did consider epoxy but forgot about the 5 minute version.

[philsandy]

I used Superglue.  Because you are gluing  metal to metal there is no absorbency so it takes longer than normal to set.

The method I used was to position the staple on the coupling tail and apply a drop of Superglue. Then using a piece of tissue gently touch the glued joint with the edge of the tissue to soak up the excess glue, and leave for a few minutes.

[Jinty3f]

I use a V shaped mini file to file a shallow groove on one side of the coupling tail. Using pliers, I then close one end of the staple tightly around the tail and into the groove. Despite being shallow, the groove seems to help with mechanical attachment, and is then secured with superglue. I have not had any come adrift as yet.

 John

[Stubby47]

I use 15min contact adhesive glue, coating both hook and iron wire, then after the required time press together and squeeze with a pair of needle pliers to make the joint solid.

 

In normal use, this is fine, but they are prone to becoming detached if caught on rails.

Edited September 3, 2019 by Stubby47

[Bill37]

Thanks for all the replies, I have had another go with superglue but this time I gave it 24 hours to cure and this seems to have been successful.

 

Many thanks,

 

Bill.

[rob D2]

Gave up with glue , I now solder them 

[RedgateModels]

There's always the option of using @Pete Harvey etched hooks

 

http://www.phd-design-etchings.co.uk/index.php?route=product/category&path=25_28_63

 

I have found that crimping the staple around the coupling tail and then a drop of superglue works fine on Bachmann hooks. You have to replace the Hornby hooks as they are ferrous and interfere with the operation.

 

 

Edited September 4, 2019 by RedgateModels

[dasatcopthorne]

I solder mine.

 

You do have to file the dropper of the hook back to its raw state as well as cleaning the staples as they often have a glue on them to keep them in the strip they come is.

 

Also use some additional flux to make the joint.

 

EL

Edited September 10, 2019 by dasatcopthorne
spelling

[Bill37]

37 minutes ago, ElbowLane00 said:

I solder mine.

 

You do have to file the dropper of the hook back to its raw state as well as cleaning the staples as they often have a glue on them to keep them in the strip they come is.

 

Also use some additional flux to make the joint.

 

Dave.

 

What flux do you use Dave?

 

Thanks,

 

Bill.

[dasatcopthorne]

Bill.

 

I use LA.CO Flux Paste from Screwfix. 125g will last forever.

 

Re magnets: after a lot of testing and starting with the wrong magnets in the wrong position (just below sleeper level, touching the bottom of the sleepers) I have settled on the following that works for me.

 

I use 6mm baseboard tops plus 2/3mm underlay. I have fixed the magnets on the underside of the boards allowing testing and repositioning. First with double sided tape and then permanently with Araldite.

 

I use a pair of magnets placed end to end to make sure two couplings are covered at the same time.

 

They are 25 x 10 x 3mm N52 from Spider Magnets via eBay.

 

EL

 

 

[RedgateModels]

I found that a lolly stick is the perfect spacer to keep the two magnets apart while the glue set. Also fitted under the baseboard, more than powerful enough to work

[RobjUK]

On 04/09/2019 at 08:51, rob D2 said:

Gave up with glue , I now solder them 

 

If you use superglue on small or detail parts, get some activator spray!

 

That can be wafted over a glued part and causes the glue to harden instantly. Or you can apply a trace of that to one part and the glue to the other, causing it to set very quickly when fitted together even if it's not in an airtight location.

 

The "Mitre fast" glue and activator kit is very good for doing small parts as it's also a thicker grade of superglue, rather than a water-thin type.

Some builders supplies also sell the glue for that kit separately, as the activator lasts for several bottles of glue.

https://www.toolstation.com/mitre-adhesive-kit/p47409

 

I put a drop of the glue on a bit of scrap plastic bag and use a wire offcut to put it on to small parts or build up joints.

 

If using an activator with a different make of glue, test it separately first..

eg. I use the "pound shop" packs with ten small tubes of glue for a lot of things - but despite the information on the tubes claiming it to be exactly the same basic chemistry as the mitre fast one, neither that activator or a generic one has any effect whatsoever on it!

 

 

As others say though - with metal parts, if it's at all possible, solder them.

 

[RedgateModels]

1 minute ago, RobjUK said:

The "Mitre fast" glue and activator kit is very good for doing small parts as it's also a thicker grade of superglue,

 

Ah! "Man Glue" as SWMBO calls it. Fantastic stuff - I use the Screwfix version but same thing

[Bill37]

On 10/09/2019 at 10:56, ElbowLane00 said:

Bill.

 

I use LA.CO Flux Paste from Screwfix. 125g will last forever.

 

 

 

EL

 

 

Took your advice and tried this - worked a treat, many thanks EL.

 

Bill

[dasatcopthorne]

34 minutes ago, Bill37 said:

Took your advice and tried this - worked a treat, many thanks EL.

 

Bill

 

You're welcome.

 

EL

[barrymx5]

I am a little further back than most of the posts in this stream I have magnets (powerful!) and spent the afternoon fixing staples to droppers in various directions! Is there a diagram somewhere that I have missed? 
sorry to come in late! 

[RedgateModels]

Does this help? 

 

Edited July 13, 2022 by RedgateModels

[Ray M]

Can you tell me the dimensions, ie how long is the horizontal piece from the dropper & how long the angled tail piece is

 

Thanks to all

[Stubby47]

If you take a standard sized staple,  and bend one leg out to 45°, then you're not too far out.

 

When making my own from soft iron wire, I make them slightly shorter both horizontally and the angled bit.

 

Best advice is to try what works best for you, depending on the strength of your magnets. 

[ejstubbs]

 

2 hours ago, Stubby47 said:

take a standard sized staple

 

Sadly (if you've ever had to try to extract a mis-sized staple from the jaws of a stapler) there isn't really such a thing as a 'standard' sized staple.  The closest thing is probably the DIN 7405 standard, but there are many more sizes in fairly common use: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Staple_(fastener)#Standards  The worst problems are caused by staples which appear to have the same crown and leg dimensions, but turn out to have different wire gauges: use too small a gauge and the staples often don't close properly and/or get twisted and stick in the stapler's jaws; use too large a gauge and they...get stuck in the stapler's jaws.  There is special circle of hell reserved for office admin staff who don't understand the importance of ordering the correct size staples for the staplers in use in their office.

 

To be fair, these detail variations probably don't make much odds in the context of the BK uncoupling method.  I just thought I'd mention it.

 

(I did once experiment with using Bambi sized staples but they didn't seem to have enough mass to be attracted by the magnets strongly enough.  They did seem to work with the Peter Harvey etched hooks, possibly because all the magnetic material was at the end of the trailing 'leg'.  But I also found that the etched hooks didn't work very well as coupling hooks - they seemed to be too thin, and wobbled about on the pivot in the coupling loop.  This was with Bachmann couplings, which don't really need the etched hooks anyway as they have non-magnetic hooks as supplied; I was just experimenting.  I eventually gave up on the BK method and opted to standardise on Kadees instead.)

Edited November 13, 2019 by ejstubbs

[Stubby47]

I've also found the Peter Harvey hooks to be unbalanced when the staple is attached - i.e. they lift quite easily and uncouple. I also found the pivot hole was too large for the pivot bar, meaning the hooks would fall off. 

[boxbrownie]

On 01/09/2019 at 11:38, philsandy said:

I used Superglue.  Because you are gluing  metal to metal there is no absorbency so it takes longer than normal to set.

The method I used was to position the staple on the coupling tail and apply a drop of Superglue. Then using a piece of tissue gently touch the glued joint with the edge of the tissue to soak up the excess glue, and leave for a few minutes.

Also if using superglue you can use a small indoor plant water mist spray, it’s the lack of air which cures superglue, the glue will set hard immediately.

 

 

 

Edited November 13, 2019 by boxbrownie

[Stubby47]

2 minutes ago, boxbrownie said:

Also if using superglue you can use a small indoor plant water mist spray, it’s the lack of air which cures superglue, the glue will set hard immediately.

 

So that's why my blowing on the glue didn't work...… D'oh!