O gauge photo diorama (Riverside Works)

[PannierTanker14]

I went to a place called Calke Abbey in Derbyshire and one of the stable buildings there reminded me of an engine shed. Not long after, I was given my E4 tank loco and some wagons. I decided that, given I had no previous knowledge in O gauge modelling, I would build a single stretch of unpowered track to practice my modelling skills before even attempting to build my main layout ‘Castle Rock’. I used an engine shed style idea and was reminded of the stable building in Calke Abbey that looked like an engine shed, therefore I used its appearance as a base for the photo diorama.

It will feature inset track, working lights in the building and the doors will also work.

 

So far the track is stuck down and I have began the first layer of the inset track which is made of cork sheets. The next layer will probably also be cork if I haven’t found another material to use by the time.

The next layer will also be much more finely cut than the first layer, since it is the surface of the inset track. 

 

I plan on building the main building soon. Scratch building isn’t my specialty but this is only a practice for projects to come.

 

(the photo attached is of the first layer of cork for the inset track. The bits above that are representing the next layer and are not stuck down. The second photo is the stable building in Calke Abbey that I am basing the surrounding building on)

[Adrian Stevenson]

I live just down the road from Calke Abbey and know it well.

 

Cheers, Ade.

[PannierTanker14]

Adding more to the context of the build:

the Riverside Works is capable of scratch-building whole locomotives like the Bulleid Leader or the Fowler 0-6-0 Dock Shunter. 

It can also build other machines like military vehicles, most notably a fully armoured and operational version of the French Char 2C super heavy tank (this tank is made as the next-in-line of the real tanks in the past)

During wartime events a section of the works is set up to represent tanks and munitions being built, and the resident WD 2-10-0 ‘Dracana’ is usually set up in a siding as if being prepared for going overseas.

 

When building old design locomotives the works adds its own modifications to bring the loco to modern standards. The Leader, for example, is notorious for being a failure in many aspects. The Riverside Works would modify the design to make the locomotive work properly without changing its appearance too much. The Work’s new build leader runs as the number 36002 and is named after Bulleid himself. Currently it is only a plan, with only the number plate made. 

36002 is one of many new build projects at the Works.

Edited November 6, 2019 by PannierTanker14

[PannierTanker14]

One of the things that I will model someday is one of the main parts of any preserved railway:

a locomotive in restoration.

 

I’ve been looking around to try and find unfinished or broken 7mm models to make into a ex-Barry condition or being dismantled/put back together in restoration. So far Google has nothing.

 

The photo attached is of an old OO gauge Castle class loco which was wrecked when I found it. It looked like it’s smokebox ring had been cut off. It’s locomotives like these that I would need.

As I say to my family sometimes: If it’s broke it doesn’t mean it’s useless. It can be used for other things.

usually...

[PannierTanker14]

Stage one of inset track complete.

the next layer is the road layer and it will be made of foam sheets.

 

[PannierTanker14]

I’ve began to make a cardboard mock-up of the surrounding building to determine how it will look.

I made the shed doorway but I think it’s too tall. I’ll have a look around at other layouts to see how it’s done there.

[PannierTanker14]

That’s better...

[Andrew P]

Nice job mate, it's looking very good, and like Ade, I know Calke Abbey as well.

[PannierTanker14]

1 hour ago, Andrew P said:

Nice job mate, it's looking very good, and like Ade, I know Calke Abbey as well.

Thanks!

I’ve only ever been there once. It’s a very big place!

[Andrew P]

16 minutes ago, PannierTanker14 said:

Thanks!

I’ve only ever been there once. It’s a very big place!

Me too, it rained. haha.

[PannierTanker14]

Same for me! Luckily I was in the tunnels 

[Andrew P]

Just now, PannierTanker14 said:

Same for me! Luckily I was in the tunnels 

I never even got into the House, just the café and shop area. 

[PannierTanker14]

The E4 in all it’s glory.

 

Progress on the diorama will be slow now because of collage but I aim to get it finished soonish! I’ve only ever scratch built a building once before and it’s still home to Sparrows and probably Bees by now.

 

I’ve still got to figure out how the lights will work and how the door will be put together on this diorama. The door will be more rectangular than the prototype and made of icepop sticks. 

 

 

 

[PannierTanker14]

After thinking about seeing if I could bring the Riverside Works diorama to an event whenever Mermaid Cove attends one, I realised that it’s not very mobile at all. A slab of Ikea drawer is what the Works is being made on and that isn’t very lightweight. It is also rather hard to carry and quite fragile too.

I’ve seen how people transport their dioramas and micro-layouts in easy storage boxes so I devised a cunning plan:

Build a frame in which the diorama will sit on that has handles for Lifting out of the box. 

 

I’ve drawn a quick plan of action and the rough idea of how this frame will be. It will be either attached to the diorama’s wooden base or clipped to it, either way it’s just a rough plan so far. The handles will also be hinged like handles usually are. 

Riverside Works is a long way off from finished and Mermaid Cove isn’t being worked on yet anyway (as far as I know) so nothing will be made yet.

 

Illustrated below is the plan:

Edited September 10, 2019 by PannierTanker14

[PannierTanker14]

Progress is slow on the diorama. I’ve began collage for a start and that takes up some days and leaves me drained.

Please stand by as I will begin building the outer shell of the diorama soon.

[PannierTanker14]

The wooden backboards of the diorama are being scaled up ready for cutting. The shed building will have a stronger wooden frame too, which both holds up the shed building and secures the backboards too. The wood backboard will come around the front too, becoming level with the inset track. 

I am now planning on how to add the lights into the building.

 

I aim to have the diorama completed by the end of this year.

[PannierTanker14]

Progress continues!

 

Here’s a rough sketch of the internal frame and backboard, with words on it. It’s so rough that it’s just ramblings so far, with actual measurements not yet concluded.

The materials needed are now here and work can begin. 

H O P E F U L L Y  it will be done before christmas so that I can make a start on the shell of the building during the holidays, which hopefully means that I’ll get the diorama done by the start of next year. 

[PannierTanker14]

A locomotive in a sad condition but still better than the Avon Valley’s one! I experimented on moss textures that usually can be found on locos that stay still for very long periods of time. To the eye it doesn’t look as green as to the camera but I still think it looks ok. It’s based of memory, like most of my weathering examples are. I’ll make a new set of frames for it and maybe some dummy wheels (unless I can find an actual Lima 4F frame). Once my Castle Rock sidings layout is finished and attends its first event, this 4F will be set up on some sleepers and positioned at the right hand far corner of the sidings. Let me know what you think. Feedback is certainly something that I would like, since this is a first try so there is always room to improve! (And also most if not all of you are w a y more experienced at modelling and detailing than I am...) 

 

As I gain more second hand models, many will be condemned to the same fate as this 4F...

 

Edited October 1, 2019 by PannierTanker14

[PannierTanker14]

Going to a model exhibition next weekend, bringing a wheelbarrow in case there’s second hand stuff to buy.

 

I can also get the Southern coaches up too and see what has to be done to restore them. They’re the same coaches from my childhood and, as some of the models can show, I was not very careful with them. I don’t think they’ll ever get a long layout to run on and my sidings layout is too small, therefore they will probably be stuck to living on a shelf for years.

But that’s got to be better than having spent probably a decade in their boxes hidden away under other model kits.

Edited October 5, 2019 by PannierTanker14

[PannierTanker14]

The wood for the internal frame has been sized up and materials are being gathered ready to begin.

Before I build the frame and backboard, I will need to make at least a to-scale mock up of the brick building shell since the backboard requires the measurements. 
I was thinking about using plasticard or something similar for the building.

 

For now though, I’m going to see if I can acquire any more O gauge things to restore/scrap.

[PannierTanker14]

Progress on the diorama has basically halted for a while. I hope to get it somewhat finished before the end of this year, however.

[PannierTanker14]

Progression!

the wooden frame is now up....mostly. It needs work but now it’s starting to look right. 
 

as soon as I get some plasticard I’ll start putting together the building shell. It should start looking like the Calke Abbey stables soon.

Edited November 10, 2019 by PannierTanker14

[PannierTanker14]

If any layout builders could help me with this:

 

I'm trying to figure out the correct clearance for the shed door. Currently there are three different spacings which I found to look right. All prototype photos I’ve found differ and since I have no architectural experience these are the three I’ve gone with.

 

also this is a visual update on the structure, on which I’ve put card sheets to give the shape of the building better.
 

[PannierTanker14]

The third spacing:

[MarshLane]

Hiya,

I always find shed door spacing difficult. I think it’s best to work in real life figures then scale down. Take the width of the loco, leave a good two foot for the crew to keep their heads out on either side, and then times by 7 to get the width in mm. for example, if the loco is 5.5 foot wide, plush two foot either side is 9.5. So 9.5 * 7 = 66.5, so I’d round up and in that example say work on 70mm width. Just my way, hope it helps.

 

Rich