Mark's Workbench: back in the village again!

[2996 Victor]

2 hours ago, gobbler said:

Nice scratch builds.  Looks like I'll need to invest in one of those olfa scribers.  I've been using the back edge of a 10A scalpel, but does throw up a burr.  Do you get the same problem with the olfa/ tamiya panel line scriber?

 

If you look at my "my/our carriage scratch building" thread you may see what i mean.

 

Cheers,

 

Scott

 

Hi Scott,

 

the Olfa/Tamiya scriber gives a very neat scribed line without any burrs, although as with all things I do each line in three or four lightish passes. The scriber effectively routs out the material in a long, often tightly spiralled thread of swarf. I'm wondering whether there may be a use for some of it as its so like helical springs!

 

Years ago, I used to use the side of a compass point to scribe planks, and never had any real problems. But when I tried that method recently, the results were dire, hence looking for something more appropriate. The Olfa/Tamiya tool seems to be the bees' knees, although spare blades do seem a bit expensive.....

 

Cheers,

 

Mark

[2996 Victor]

29 minutes ago, wagonman said:

 

The bowed out sides was a noticeable feature of older mineral wagons that had spent half their lives loaded with coal etc. I don't think it was a problem for merchandise wagons.

 

Nice work though!

 

 

 

Hi,

 

yes, agreed! The wagons so treated thus far are the Midland D299 5-planks, which as I understand it were real multi-purpose vehicles that carried coal, minerals or merchandise as necessary. SImilarly, the Cambrian 4-plank. The Midland D305 3-plank dropsides were, I think, more merchandise, which is why I tried to bow them outward slightly less - perhaps they're still a little "over-cooked" though! One of my bugbears is wagons whose sides bow inward in a most unprototypical manner, which does seem to be a bit of a problem with kits generally and in particular at the corners, which probably leads to a be of over-compensation on my part!

 

Cheers,

 

Mark

[airnimal]

Mark, I use the Olfa cutters all the time. They are very easy to sharpen with a diamond wheel in a mini drill. 

It doesn't take much pressure, just a quick touch and this brings them back like new.

Mike.

[2996 Victor]

44 minutes ago, airnimal said:

Mark, I use the Olfa cutters all the time. They are very easy to sharpen with a diamond wheel in a mini drill. 

It doesn't take much pressure, just a quick touch and this brings them back like new.

Mike.

 

Hi Mike,

 

that's brilliant! I'm ashamed to say the thought of sharpening the blade hadn't even occurred to me.....pass the paracetamol, someone!

 

Cheers,

 

Mark 

[Alex]

Some very nice modelling Mark thanks for sharing

 

Alex

[2996 Victor]

33 minutes ago, Alex said:

Some very nice modelling Mark thanks for sharing

 

Alex

 

Many thanks, Alex! Hopefully, it won't be too long before I actually finish something!

 

Cheers,

 

Mark

[Alex]

On 19/11/2019 at 14:41, 2996 Victor said:

 

Many thanks, Alex! Hopefully, it won't be too long before I actually finish something!

 

Cheers,

 

Mark

i think a lot of modellers are in the same boat regards finishing something  Mark

[2996 Victor]

14 hours ago, Alex said:

i think a lot of modellers are in the same boat regards finishing something  Mark

 

Absolutely, Alex, it's often easier to enthusiastically start something new than finish an existing project 

[2996 Victor]

Next to no progress to report, other than a light spray of Tamiya IJN Grey-Green on the interiors of the GWR 3-plank opens. Although from their aircraft range, I think it makes a good base colour for older woodwork. Once dry, they were lightly marked out in pencil for the rivet decals.

 

Further attempts at progress resulted in three b***ered axleguard frets, four wasted pin point bearings, and a snapped scalpel blade.

 

"Sometimes", said Parsley, "I really don't know why I bother!"

Edited December 2, 2019 by 2996 Victor

[2996 Victor]

The recent arrival of a couple of small packages, one from Dart Castings containing some MJT GWR/RCH axleguard frets and one from H&A Models containing some Alan Gibson 8-spoke solid and open-spoke wheelsets (and a pair of Mansell wheelsets for a secret project!) has allowed a small advance in the various wagons currently littering the workbench.

 

There are now five sets of axleguard units ready for use. One other set has already found its way under one of the Midland D299s, which has achieved its correct ride height without too much heartache. I've also started detailing its solebars with the etched "extras" kindly provided by MJT! The small etched parts adhere nicely to the styrene strip solebars with the wash of a little MEK. Just a few more small details to add and I can think about the brake gear. The sprung buffers will probably wait until its been painted, most probably as one the S&DJR versions of these wagons. I shall need to be a bit careful of the axleboxes - the ones I have are Bill Bedford's 3D-printed Ellis 10A, quite a few of the S&D's wagons had the smaller 8A axleboxes. I think I'll just pick a running number at random and hope that that particular wagon was never photographed!

 

Cheers,

 

Mark

[Mikkel]

13 hours ago, 2996 Victor said:

I think I'll just pick a running number at random and hope that that particular wagon was never photographed!

 

No doubt a photo will emerge the moment the transfers are dry 

[2996 Victor]

2 hours ago, Mikkel said:

 

No doubt a photo will emerge the moment the transfers are dry 

 

Undoubtedly! 

[2996 Victor]

No modelling progress this weekend, as I've been busy redecorating the dining room in readiness for Christmas!

 

I did manage to sneakily do a part of the Railway Room as well, though - one complete wall and part of another that my bookcase stands in front of, so at least that won't need to be moved again!

 

Away all week with a funeral tomorrow and then work, but hopefully I'll manage to get some wagonry in before too long!

[2996 Victor]

Small progress this weekend with a few bits of underframe detailing added to one of the D305 3-plank dropsides and the D307 sleeper wagon scratchbuild.

 

Also, there seems to have arrived another Bachmann Pannier Tank, this time a 57xx, also in BR black. This prompted a foray yesterday into Sheffield and Rails to acquire a Bachmann Hawksworth Autotrailer in carmine and cream. Which is a bit daft as, afaik, no 57xxs were auto fitted. So I'll "need" a 64xx (14xxs are too passé).

 

All this modern RTR-ness is quite distressing, and has in turn resulted in the commencement of a Parkside O11, to be finished in BR unfitted grey, to run with said locomotive(s). Something in bauxite may follow *shudders*.

 

Cheers for now!

 

Mark

[2996 Victor]

Its been a while since I posted anything here, as the various part-built wagons littering my workbench have been gathering a light coating of dust in the run-up to and during the "festive" season. However, I've actually managed to make a bit of progressSo, please accept my apologies if this post turns out to be a bit long-winded and photo-heavy.

 

You will remember, dear reader, that I was combining the body sides and ends from the Slater's D299 and D305 kits with a semi-scratchbuilt underframe using MJT etched axleguards and Bill Bedford 3D-printed Ellis 10A axlebox/spring assemblies. I'd reached a point where the bodies had been assembled and the solebars added some little while ago and there matters rested, largely as a result of of a mental block over the brake gear and disappointment with etched replacement parts (or more probably my attempts to use them). However, post-Yule, I reached a decision on how much detail to incorporate and so, having decided on the way forward, finally cracked on with what passes for renewed vigour, to whit.....

 

The Slater's underframe sprue as supplied with the D299 and D305 kits, as Nature intended:

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I'll only be using the brake shoe moulding, though!

 

Two brake gear sets removed from their sprues:

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These are one set per wagon, of course. The one on the left has been "fettled", i.e. I've carefully removed the representations of the safety loops, carefully sanded and slightly thinned the push rods, and then drilled a 0.4mm hole in the centre of the crank. A brass pin is shown in the hole, ultimately this will become the brake lever/crank pivot rod (for want of a better description!).

 

Both sets fettled and drilled:

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The two sets of moulded brake gear, together with their spacer blocks and a Mike Clark (Masokits) Morton Levers and Vees etch:

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The spacer blocks are made from 60thou x 80thou Evergreen styrene, and sit between the inside face of the wagon's solebar and the outside face of the moulded mounting block of the Slater's brake gear. The parts needed from the etch are the vee-hangers, whose pivot holes have also been opened out to 0.4mm, and the safety loops.

 

Here, the brake gear moulding has been fixed to the wagon floor, sandwiching the spacer block as described above, to bring the brake shoes into line (hopefully!) with the wheel treads:

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Folding up the safety loops:

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I don't bother cleaning up the tags where they've been cut from the fret - the loops will need to be shortened, anyway.

 

The vee-hangers in position, aligned by the brass pin passing through the crank as shown above, and the safety loops placed in position to show how much they need to be trimmed:

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The vee-hangers also need a slight trim and fettle for them to fit nicely and get the pin horizontal. When they're right, they're "glued" in position with a drop of MEK - it's enough to hold the brass etchings in place on the styrene solebars until the whole caboodle is completed.

 

Here, one of the D299s has had its safety loops trimmed to length, and they, too, are initially held in place with a drop of MEK:

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Once the MEK has dried and I'm happy all is well, I go round with the cyano and carefully apply glue to all the brass/styrene joints. At this stage, the brass pin is still loose, as this will need to come out for the brake lever to be fitted.

 

The remaining D299 and the D305s similarly treated:

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Here are the whole bunch, sporting their wheels, too:

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In this shot, there are still some small solebar details to be added, such as works plates, to some, and the whole lot to the others. They've since all been brought up to the same condition as the D229 and D305 in the front row. In the back row is the D307 Stores Sleeper wagon, more of which anon.

 

And finally, one of the D299s showing off it's Highbridge door stop:

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Both of the D299s have been similarly treated, as they are going to S&DJR wagons, of course. They need to tiny holes drilled in each to represent the door stop mounting bolts!

 

The brake levers and guides are still to be added, of course. The normal Highbridge brake lever was significantly longer than the Derby standard with the guide outboard of the R/H axleguard, although according to Southern Wagons Vol.1 by Bixley et al, Figure 52 suggests a Derby standard lever and guide was found on Nos.457-496 and Nos.961-990 built 1883. I haven't detailed the interiors as all four will run loaded or be sheeted, although as I havent decided on the loads yet I intend to paint at least the top plank inside a wood colour in case it shows.....Phew!

 

Cheers,

 

Mark

Edited January 2, 2020 by 2996 Victor

[2996 Victor]

Some detail on the D307 Stores Sleeper wagon. This is of course a scratch-build with etched/3D-printed details where possible.

 

Making the corner plates:

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These consist of a full-height L-shaped portion on the wagon's ends that are only three planks high on the sides, as it is a half-drop-side, of course. The short sections on the sides are made and fitted first. They're made over width and trimmed back once dry. In this shot, the corresponding parts for the ends are being made.

 

The sections of the corner plates for the ends are fitted:

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They're also made over-height and over width as its easier to trim them to size once they're dry.

 

Both ends done:

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Time for a cuppa!

 

I've jumped forward a bit here:

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The corner plates have been trimmed, and the corners rounded to simulate the folded steel plate of the real thing. The brake gear is made in the same way as the D299s and D305s, although in this case the donor for the brake shoes etc is the CooperCraft GWR W1/W5 Cattle Wagon kit, which has the same wheelbase. The inner hanger (a rod, not a vee, from the look of the photo in Midland Wagons Vol.1 by Essery) came from a Masokits DC1 etch fret.

 

Looks okay, doesn't it? Next up will be the side knees and door hinge straps, and their corresponding internal washer plates:

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Incidentally, using butt-joined sides and ends for a scratch-built wagon body is far easier than trying to get filed mitre joints all the same, and adding the corner plates like this hides the joints nicely. Simples!

 

Cheers,

 

Mark

[2996 Victor]

I meant to add earlier that, along with the D299s', D305s' and D307's brake gear, I decided to make a start on the brake gear for the long-suffering V5 Mink.

 

Now, although the CooperCraft moulding for the DC1 brake gear is nice and crisp it is also, shall we say, somewhat exaggerated in it's form. And, bizarrely, the distance over the brake shoes is over a millimetre less than the distance between the wheel treads so that the brake gear as moulded will pass between the flanges of the Gibson EM wheels I'm using! In the real world, no amount of "throw" would have ever induced those brakes to make contact with their respective wheels!

 

So what to do? I started out by removing the moulded safety loops - the GWR used quite distinctive ones rather like a jockey's stirrups - and making good the push rods. And here I noticed that the swing arms from which the brake shoes are suspended are at far too great an angle compared to the real thing, so I cut away the centre crank arm to separate the push rods and applied a little judicious bending of the swing arms to introduce more verticality, followed by bending the shoes to restore their contact pattern with the wheels. So far, so good.

 

What I should have done next was to reduce the depth of the mounting block to which the brake shoes are moulded to bring the brake shoes back into line with the wheels (the floor on my model is not as the maker intended!), then divided the mounting block in half and glued the two halves to a stretcher to space the shoes correctly relative to the wheels . What I actually did was cut the swing arms off the mounting block......oops! To try and salvage this error, I then made a new mounting block of appropriate dimensions, carefully positioned the brake shoes and glued the tops of the swing arms to the mounting block.

 

Hey presto! the whole lot was now succesfully glued together. And to the cutting mat! 

 

This morning I was able to carefully separate the brake gear from the cutting mat, and amazingly not only did it stay together but it's also now a correct fit to the van. Lucky does not come close!

 

What a lot of prose to wade through for not much. Was it worth it? Probably not!

 

Cheers,

 

Mark

Edited January 3, 2020 by 2996 Victor

[Mikkel]

Hi Mark, those are simply delicious builds. Looks like very precise and tidy work. Proper see-through safety loops are one of those things that really make a difference, I think. 

 

Step  by step, the Midland spreads its tentacles across the threads. Surely the Second Coming is at hand.

[2996 Victor]

Hi Mikkel,

 

many thanks for your kind words: praise, indeed, given your own incredible builds!

 

I know what you mean about the Midland - it seems to have that effect, doesn't it? I'm not sure what my dear departed Dad would have said - he was a GWR man through and through. (Dad would spend many hours during his school holidays in the late 50s stood on Forty Steps, a footbridge in Taunton, Somerset, watching the goings-on in Taunton West Yard. He always wanted to build a layout based on Barnstaple Victoria Road, but alas never had the opportunity). I think I could have just about got away with the D299s and D305s as they're going to be S&DJR and thus fairly close to home, but I think the D307 would have caused raised eyebrows! 

 

I suppose I ought to redress the balance, get the V5 finished and crack on with the GWR 3-plank opens, too. And there's a Parkside O11 as well, part-built, that I must finish!

 

Cheers,

 

Mark

[Mikkel]

Just did a little Googling on the 40 steps bridge. Seems it was quite famous. Looks like it has been replaced, hopefully the current bridge is OK for photography too.

[2996 Victor]

Just time today to take advantage of the beautiful weather and mask the D299s and D305s, and give them a whiff of my favoured interior wood base colour - Tamiya AS-29 IJN Gray-Green (that's Grey-Green!).

 

Here they are ready to go into the paint booth (i.e. the back garden), looking a bit like prototype Daleks (apologies for the awful light):

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And here they are after some paint:

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And un-masked, like the villains they are ("I would have gotten away with it if it hadn't been for them pesky kids!" - you'll either understand or you won't have a scooby ):

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I've taken a liking to the IJN Gray-Green (how it hurts to type "Gray") as a basis for bare wood. It actually looks a bit less green in natural light, and slightly silvery like older wood tends to go after its been exposed to the elements for a while. I'll mix a thin wash of a slightly greeny-khaki persuasion and tint the top couple of planks to give a bit of definition, but as mentioned above these wagons will be loaded anyway.

 

Hopefully, tomorrow will see the axleguards detached (they're currently held by blu-tak) and the bodies sprayed light grey (Tamiya AS-11 Medium Sea Grey (RAF). The ironwork will be picked out by hand using Tamiya's XF-84 Dark Iron, but unfortunately that colour isn't available as an aerosol, so the axleguards will be sprayed with a black etch primer and dry-brushed with the Dark Iron. Weathering should tie it all together.

 

Meanwhile.....what the Dickens is this that's turned up today?

http://

More trouble, that's what!

 

Cheers,

 

Mark

[2996 Victor]

55 minutes ago, Mikkel said:

Just did a little Googling on the 40 steps bridge. Seems it was quite famous. Looks like it has been replaced, hopefully the current bridge is OK for photography too.

 

Such a shame the original bridge was demolished. I've not been over the new one, but the views would be far less spectacular as all the old yards are long gone.

[2996 Victor]

This afternoon, I have been mostly making sheet lashing rings:

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They're made from 0.28mm diameter copper strands taken from copper-cored classic car ignition lead, twisted as shown and sized around a 0.5mm drill bit held in my pin chuck. Completed ones are on the left, ready to be trimmed to the first turn up from the loop.

 

Here are the D299s and D305s with their lashing rings in place:

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There are ten on each!

 

Close-up of one of the D299s:

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I've also used the twisted wire method to make a representation of the door chains and pin eyes - thanks to @Adam for this idea from his thread https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37002-adams-em-workbench-secr-van-by-cambrian/ but not sure if using the same wire makes them a bit too chunky, so they're not fixed yet. Opinions, please:

http://

 

That's all for now!

 

Mark

 

Edited January 5, 2020 by 2996 Victor
Wire diameter added.

[2996 Victor]

Having looked at the mocked-up door safety chains in the pic above in daylight, I've come to the conclusion that:

 

1. Shape - looks good (IMHO!)

2. Wire gauge - too coarse.

 

I've tried some wire from an old USB cable, but that's sooooo fine it's almost unworkable. So I've ordered some 0.125mm copper wire intended for tying flies for fishing - as that's just under half the diameter of the other wire, I hope it will be okay.

 

Unfortunately, the new wire won't arrive until the end of the week, so I'd better find something else to do!

 

Cheers,

 

Mark

Edited January 5, 2020 by 2996 Victor

[Phil Traxson]

On 02/01/2020 at 12:21, 2996 Victor said:

 

Looks okay, doesn't it? Next up will be the side knees and door hinge straps, and their corresponding internal washer plates:

http://

 

Incidentally, using butt-joined sides and ends for a scratch-built wagon body is far easier than trying to get filed mitre joints all the same, and adding the corner plates like this hides the joints nicely. Simples!

 

Cheers,

 

Mark

And, of course, much more prototypical. They didn't put a 45 degree chamfer on the ends of the planks on the real ones. 

Edited January 5, 2020 by Phil Traxson