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Soldering advice.


Re6/6
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Advice please on tinning 28 swg/0.33mm spring steel wire please.

 

I've tried various fluxes, Orange Label, Green Label and Copalux and conventional lead/tin solder with some limited success.

 

I need to fix it to Sommerfeldt catenary posts which the hangers are copper plated steel.

 

I ask it here because I can't find any thread specific to soldering. Maybe I've missed it somewhere. 

 

Thanks.

 

594640574_Cat1.jpg.4aae5f802aa90ed1bec12870105e5aa6.jpg

Edited by Re6/6
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Hang on, I'll have a look! Lets see...

 

For my copperwork, I'm using 'Everflux', which is a water-soluble based flux.  (white tube, blue lid) . I use this on all of my copper based work, and it's always worked well for me. I normally get mine from Plumb Center. Others do it, but I know 'they' usually stock it.

 

No commercial connection, just a regular end-user. 

 

Cheers,

Ian.

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Hmm, Spring steel is awkward. 

 

I tin it first, Bakers fluid flux , real 60/40 solder, clean it well afterwards.

 

My main use of it is Alex Jackson couplings. These days I always buy the plated guitar strings which I find easier to solder and much more corrosion resistant long term. 

 

 

 

 

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1 hour ago, markjj said:

 

Ouch - that's just a bit on the expensive side.

 

It is probably Alu-sol, I've had a reel of that for decades & still got a good amount left.

The flux reaction seems near nuclear, the solder will flow on aluminium without too much difficulty and such as stainless and piano wire are a doddle.

 

It's not cheap, but a half kilo reel is about the same cost as four or five short bits off ebay:

https://cpc.farnell.com/multicore-solder/629443/solder-alusol-0-91mm-500g/dp/SD00059

 

[Edit - RS have the same thing rather cheaper: https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/solders/0555099/ ]

 

My antique:

 

 

Alu-sol.jpg

Edited by RobjUK
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