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Bourton on the Water


Baggies1961
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I see some good weathering in the pics.  Are these done by aerosol can?  If so, I'm astonished because in my experience rattle cans tend to spray heavy coats and particles tend to be too large to get a feathered effect.

 

I have always used an airbrush for the basic layers of weathering of wagons.  That is, dirt/earth underneath and on the solebars and the roof.  A second layer of black is added.  These are light coats.  I finish using powders.

 

John

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Hi John,

That was my worry initially as I had/have no great experience of either spraying or weathering. All the wagons I have done so far have a primer coat applied, then a couple of coats of, in this case for example bauxite. When dry I applied the frame dirt all by aerosol can as listed by Rail Match. I will use water colour rusts that I have bought and I have just got some powders I want to try. Hope that helps

Regards

Julian.

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Well, I never Julian.  I can't get Railmatch here so I guess it's moot.  I must take a pilgrimage to my "local" hobby shop to see if similar products are available.

 

I did some airbrushing this morning, 2 repaired wagons, BR Mk1 CCT and WR Fruit D.  It looks good.  I'll give the paint a chance to cure and then apply some powder.

 

I don't know about water colour rust.

 

John

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Hi John,

I forget sometimes we are spoilt here for choice of materials. I have considered an airbrush but a decent one is an expense I cant afford at the moment.

Water colour rust I am still experimenting with having watched a few you tube videos of modellers using it.

Regards

Julian.

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Hi John,

I forget sometimes we are spoilt here for choice of materials. I have considered an airbrush but a decent one is an expense I cant afford at the moment.

Water colour rust I am still experimenting with having watched a few you tube videos of modellers using it.

Regards

Julian.

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Hi John,

I forget sometimes we are spoilt here for choice of materials. I have considered an airbrush but a decent one is an expense I cant afford at the moment.

Water colour rust I am still experimenting with having watched a few you tube videos of modellers using it.

Regards

Julian.

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Yes you would want to get a decent airbrush (mine's a Paasche double action)  and a compressor of course.  Quite an investment but worth it if you plan to build a lot of stock.

 

John

Edited by brossard
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Cant remember the right name for it,but if there's a vehicle  parked on it ,the bar cannot be raised and the points/signal cannot be cleared.I'm sure there is someone who could put it better than that,with all the technical terms,but that's what it does.

 

ATB

 

Phil

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There is a large variety of names - clearance bar, depression bar, fouling bar, locking bar and no doubt several others but they perform the function described above.

Dave

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I assume that is the Parkside kit.  I found that the plastic step hangers were quite useless, breaking even while getting them off the sprue.  Possibly my cack handedness.  I replaced the hangers with brass, trying to replicate the shape.  I reckon that even if you can get the plastic hangers installed without incident, they will be weak.

 

Every Parkside kit I have done has had the step hangers replaced with brass.  Slaters brake vans have cast brass hangers which are great. 

 

John

 

 

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Step hangers = struts on which the step boards hang.

 

841966485_P1010001-002(2).JPG.df853837fc2cac3d50e46ce476c90775.JPG

 

You can see my mod here. 

 

My kit builds always to look like a dogs breakfast.  I don't know how some people can be so neat.  Still it was all right on the night.

 

I had some trouble getting the handrails right.  Finally settled on 0.9mm for main rails and 0.5mm for the door.

 

Also note the lamp bracket is Slater's.  They do packs of cast brass.  Handy if you want to actually hang lamps on them.  Parkside plastic ones have no strength.

 

I have also found that CA works very well when attaching ABS parts.

 

John

Edited by brossard
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