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Bourton on the Water


Baggies1961
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3 hours ago, Baggies1961 said:

Thanks Ian did look at a pic where it was still on, the Parkside one is too big.

 

I'm pretty sure no ODA's had any vacuum equipment/pipe , however quite a few pipe wagons had a through air pipe fitted (ZDW). ODA's also had clasp brakes, different suspension and roller bearings, I looked at doing this conversion too but couldn't find anyone selling the correct axleguards/suspension, though I have been thinking lately that it may be possible to do something by butchering one of the forthcoming Dapol VEA's

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8 hours ago, Baggies1961 said:

Class 37405 currently on tour and loaned to Hornby magazine for a review.

 

Superb Mike and Julian, now I'm really envious of that Garden running section, haha.:good:

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On 15/04/2021 at 12:57, Baggies1961 said:

Colas liveried Class 37421 now fitted with a Zimo decoder and active braking sits in the platform. Having a few test runs as there seems to be an issue with the bogies at the moment.

image.jpg

WOW, That does look a stunner Julian.:good::good::good: Now just how new can I go?:nono:

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5 hours ago, Baggies1961 said:

Afternoon All,

For fear of asking a daft question, how exactly do you know if a gear has split? My new class 37/4 Colas makes a sort of clunking noise on one bogie. 
Thanks in advance

Regards

Julian.

Im pretty sure that doesnt affect these but could be something not engaging.

 

On the old ones there is a base plate you can unscrew and remove to look at the gears - not sure if yours is the same as I was under the impression they are a totally different design.

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Thanks Hal getting a tad frustrated as to what is wrong. The loco is just crawling along and a clunking noise coming from one bogie.

Digitrains suggested doing a decoder reset but  going to ring them in the morning to try getting it sorted.

Will look to see if that base plate is there.

Thanks once again.

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Remove the body, remove the bottom plate off the suspect bogie, lay it on its side, and spin the flywheel with your finger, watch the gears rotate. I had an issue with my peak where a wrong gear had been inserted and it didn’t mesh properly, and you will be able to see which gear is causing the problem easily enough. It might just be a case it needs running in, but not likely to be a split gear, and the clonking won’t have anything to do with the chip

if you turn the motor by hand you can also feel the tight spot if it has one

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8 hours ago, 47606odin said:

Remove the body, remove the bottom plate off the suspect bogie, lay it on its side, and spin the flywheel with your finger, watch the gears rotate. I had an issue with my peak where a wrong gear had been inserted and it didn’t mesh properly, and you will be able to see which gear is causing the problem easily enough. It might just be a case it needs running in, but not likely to be a split gear, and the clonking won’t have anything to do with the chip

if you turn the motor by hand you can also feel the tight spot if it has one

 

 

I had similar with an original Hymek and adopted a similar procedure. In this case it was the final drive gear on the axle.  I agree with 47696 that on a new model it shouldn't be split gears since Heljan are supposed to have sorted that but something is clearly wrong.  I would be very interested in your findings

 

Paul R

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10 hours ago, Baggies1961 said:

Thanks Hal getting a tad frustrated as to what is wrong. The loco is just crawling along and a clunking noise coming from one bogie.

Digitrains suggested doing a decoder reset but  going to ring them in the morning to try getting it sorted.

Will look to see if that base plate is there.

Thanks once again.

Hi Julian, I have had exactly the same problem with my latest 37/0 (same chassis), clunking noise from one bogie. I took the motor out at that end and when I tried to move the loco a wheelset locked solid. When I tried to turn the wheelset it would only move 345 degrees and displayed all the same traits as a split gear. I identified the gear as the idler gear next to the double gear which meshes with the worm. The strange thing is I can see no crack in it so have cleaned it to remove any flash and reassembled. It then turned fine so definitely a case of "fault not found" rather than "no fault found". As I only need 1 motor and wanted a lower current draw I have removed the motor and idler gears at that end but it is not really a fix if you want to use both motors.

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10 hours ago, Hal Nail said:

Im pretty sure that doesnt affect these but could be something not engaging.

 

On the old ones there is a base plate you can unscrew and remove to look at the gears - not sure if yours is the same as I was under the impression they are a totally different design.

It is the same, 6 screws and the baseplate drops out.

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11 hours ago, Hal Nail said:

Im pretty sure that doesnt affect these but could be something not engaging.

 

On the old ones there is a base plate you can unscrew and remove to look at the gears - not sure if yours is the same as I was under the impression they are a totally different design.

 

I am pretty sure the redesign is only to allow the gears to rotate round their axles rather than the axle rotating as well - except of course the final drive to the wheels. Certainly that's how the later ones seem to perform. The intermediate gear wheels always did that but were never affected by splitting. The old method was to force the gear on the axle with an interference fit but the forces placed on the gear cause it to split over time. This problem seems to affect the first gear from the worm and the final drive gear on the axle. I don't know what they did to the latter but the only real answer is metal gears which is why I have been replacing mine with Jim Snowden and Ultrascale versions on affected locos.

 

Paul R

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1 hour ago, pwr said:

 

I am pretty sure the redesign is only to allow the gears to rotate round their axles rather than the axle rotating as well - except of course the final drive to the wheels. Certainly that's how the later ones seem to perform. The intermediate gear wheels always did that but were never affected by splitting. The old method was to force the gear on the axle with an interference fit but the forces placed on the gear cause it to split over time. This problem seems to affect the first gear from the worm and the final drive gear on the axle. I don't know what they did to the latter but the only real answer is metal gears which is why I have been replacing mine with Jim Snowden and Ultrascale versions on affected locos.

 

Paul R

Yes, that is the case, the intermediate gears are all loose on the axles but the gear that meshes with the worm is fixed on the axle as is the final drive gear. If I have any problems on the other bogie I will be biting the bullet and replacing the gears on one bogie with metal ones.

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Thanks for that I will turn it upside down and give it a look later.

It appears to be the leading wheel set on the number two end that is the issue.

Mean while with Digitrains help the decoder has been reset and all is well on that front, now running as it should.

Also had to trim the end of the sand pipes as they were catching the track work on the points.

image.jpg

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17 minutes ago, Baggies1961 said:

Thanks for that I will turn it upside down and give it a look later.

It appears to be the leading wheel set on the number two end that is the issue.

Mean while with Digitrains help the decoder has been reset and all is well on that front, now running as it should.

Also had to trim the end of the sand pipes as they were catching the track work on the points.

image.jpg

Exactly the same wheelset and end that I had an issue with. I would be interested to see what you find.

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9 hours ago, pwr said:

 

I am pretty sure the redesign is only to allow the gears to rotate round their axles rather than the axle rotating as well - except of course the final drive to the wheels. Certainly that's how the later ones seem to perform. The intermediate gear wheels always did that but were never affected by splitting. The old method was to force the gear on the axle with an interference fit but the forces placed on the gear cause it to split over time. This problem seems to affect the first gear from the worm and the final drive gear on the axle. I don't know what they did to the latter but the only real answer is metal gears which is why I have been replacing mine with Jim Snowden and Ultrascale versions on affected locos.

 

Paul R

Thanks. In reading the various threads about this I had only seen widespread comments about the original design. You will always get the odd failure in anything of course but I'm still tempted to flag to Heljan Ben if it is still occurring, even after the improved design.

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