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Balmoral Road - Some Industrial Background Buildings


brossard
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A few weeks ago I self analyzed my lack of mojo and came to the conclusion that my previous attempt at a layout was the cause.  See here for an example of silliness:

 

Not a bad idea really but a project for a club I think.

 

So, I have embarked on a more traditional and modest project.  Basic dimensions are 21' x 2'4".  There is a 3 road fiddle road 5' long.

 

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Two of the boards were from a "not to be" 12' long layout.  The fourth was leftover from something else which is why it is 2' wide.   I cobbled up a fourth board from leftovers.

 

Board construction:

 

I do intend to exhibit this layout so it has to combine strngth, stability and lightness (as much as possible).

 

So, for end stability I have two methods:

 

1)  Use 12 mm Russian ply for the ends.  I got the lumber yard to rip a 5' x 5' board into 4" strips.

 

2)  Use steel dowels to ensure that the joint  between boards doesn't move:

 

P1010006-001.JPG.b66e19779487e2d2fff6967c456d9212.JPG

 

I think I've seen these offered by other retailers, I just can't remember who.

 

For the sides, I used rubbish both sides ply.  Again, getting the lumber yard to cut 4" strips.  These are pretty light being much less dense than Russian ply.

 

For the tops, 1/2" ply is too heavy and 1/4" ply is too flimsy so I went with good one side 3/8" ply.

 

I used 1/4" wood dowels and carpenters glue to assemble everything.

 

Yes, yes, I hear you say, that's all very well, but what about the plan?

 

I wanted a branch line terminus but something a little different from the usual.

 

Recommendation:  Get your hands on a copy of Paul Karau's Great Western Branchline Termini:

 

https://www.amazon.com/Great-Western-Branch-Line-Termini/dp/0860933695

 

I'm using my friends copy.

 

Spending a happy hour or so perusing the track plans in the book, I found Hemyock in Vol 2.  This includes a small station, goods yard, cattle dock and dairy so ticks most of the boxes. 

 

I should say that I am not planning to do GWR, I'm more LMS/LNER but I'm not averse to plagiarizing what others have done.  Besides, there are thee of us in the area with an interest in O gauge but all have prefer different eras and regions.  I like LNER/LMS in about 1962, another likes WR around 1955 and my other chum favours North British around 1922.  So, whatever the layout is, it will need to be generic.

 

That's about it for now.  I will try to update frequently.

 

John

 

Edited by brossard
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  • 2 weeks later...

So, last Friday, my friend came round for a review of the layout.

 

It turns out that my initial estimate of required turnouts was off so I made some of the wrong type.  Good thing we had this review.

 

The other revelation was that the layout is too straight.  So over the weekend I leaped into action and curved it.

 

First I made a model of my basement to assess whether it was even feasible:

 

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Looks fine.  There is a 1' section that goes on the RH end that appeared to be a problem so that is omitted from the model.

 

Today I put everything back together and I am right pleased.

 

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Curving not obvious in this view.

 

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A little clearer here.  The curve is pretty subtle.

 

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I made two wedge shaped pieces.  The LH side is permanently attached to the LH board.  These were a lot of work and exhausting.  Woodwork is not my forte.

 

P1010004.JPG.2500f618e39c4480c1c97f93073e00ba.JPG

 

The area of slight concern.  You cam see the 1' section.  Distance between the board and wall is 17", I can just fit between so that's a win.

 

John

 

Edited by brossard
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  • 2 weeks later...

Having curved the layout, my friend proposed that we add the provision to be able to sculpt scenic features below track level.  To that end, I spent the last few days gluing 2" foam to the boards:

 

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Depending on where track ends up I may fill the last bit.

 

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John

Edited by brossard
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Hi John, I missed this earlier, I do like the Curve idea, I'm not one for strait Tracks parallel to the base board edge nowadays, I'll be watching with interest.

Jim / Aberdare on here has spent the last good few years building a scale model Of Hemyock in 4MM so might be worth a look for some really good below Track Level Scenics in the form of the Stream.

 

All the best,

Andy.

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Thanks Andy.  I do have the MRJ article by Chris Lamacraft on 4mm Hemyock that I'm using for inspiration.  Unfortunately I have concluded that I really can't do justice to the Hemyock plan.  I would need another 4' for that.  A rethink is underway to a more traditional terminus plan.

 

John

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Beautiful work as always Andy.  I shall bookmark it because I'm sure I can pinch ideas.

 

A friend came over yesterday and gave me a starting point.  Here's a very rough sketch:

 

474759094_NewLayout.jpg.1c5b6b70fd8d1844e4fda095e9e04941.jpg

 

It ticks all the boxes I think.  I will stretch myself by building a double slip.

 

I was thinking to myself theh other day that it is REALLY long (21').

 

John

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Over the last while I have been constructing turnouts.  Nothing remarkable, just regular left and right hand.  I finished the penultimate one today, leaving me to construct the slip shown in the (very rough) sketch above.

 

It will be a single slip.  Traffic from the throat needs to access the parcels bay and station.  There is no need for traffic to access the dairy from the parcels bay.  This will be done by shunting back from the station.

 

Here's where I got to:

 

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There are those who might think my approach to turnouts is a bit radical.  In this case I took a Peco code 75 single slip and blew it up by 199% to account for the gauge difference.  (Peco don't seem to do a single slip slip in O).  Wooden timbers (Intentio) glued to the template.  The timbering at the tiebar location is taken from the C&L template.  (I got this from a reproduction in Rice's book).  I will use the template to guide me with the locations of the various chairs.

 

You will note that the two crossings have been constructed.  This was done on a separate template with the rails soldered to copperclad strip.

 

I recommend that anyone tempted to try their hand at making their own turnouts get a copy of these:

 

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Rice's book is a good read but I prefer Trax2 as a more practical guide to constructing turnouts.  Trax2 does come with track planning software (if buying second hand, you will want to check that the CD is included) that I use for creating turnout templates now and then.  Sort of a poor mans Templot.

 

John

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  • 4 weeks later...

I got the single slip done today:

 

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I tested it as far as I could and wagons seem to go through without trouble.

 

Tiebars are from JLTRT and there are two per switch.  These are a fiddle and I had to replace the tab that's supposed to be soldered to the inside of each blade with 0.032 wire.  The tab is half etched and folded and the bend will fail when you try to adjust the tiebar position.

 

John

Edited by brossard
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  • 4 weeks later...

It has been a while but I have been busy.  There have been several consultation sessions where the track plan has been finessed.  I won't say it is final but we're close.

 

Over the last week or so I decided to get the boards finalised.   I added foam to the sides to bump out the width at the far end to 2'8".

 

I also added hardboard fascias and installed DCC plug in plates.  There are 5 in total.  One for the sector plate which is wired and working.  Two for the front and two for the back.

 

Finally I got to grips with backscene boards.

 

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The wavy tops are a tip from an acquaintance.  Solid straight tops distract the eye but the wavy top is supposed to blend things better.

 

Backscenes are nominally 12" high.  Maybe the blue colour is not too convincing.  I have enough 9" photographic backscene to stick on if the howls of derision get too loud.

 

I have a notion to do a stream in the sunken portion.

 

The basement now has three LED shoplights to pierce the stygian gloom.  Their position needs to be optimized since the far end is still a bit dark.

 

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From the back, you can see the uprights.

 

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Kitchen cabinet magnets hold the boards in place.  Some wood blocks at the top keep the boards together.  I will look for some gizmo to lock the boards next time I'm out.

 

Looks good enough to exhibit just like this.

 

I will lay out the track starting tomorrow and provide a rough track plan.

 

John

 

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Hi John,

Looking good - I love the idea of holding the scenic backboards in place with kitchen cupboard magnets.  I presume the backboards themselves are sat on the baseboard at the bottom?

Rich

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  • 1 month later...

In between wagon building I have been working on the end board of the layout.  First I had to make the bridge.  I decided to use Scalescenes new girder bridge kit:

 

https://scalescenes.com/product/r012a-plate-girder-bridge/

 

It can be made up as an all steel deck or jack arches with brick walls.

 

My initial try was to make the all steel version in card.

 

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When I had finished, two things struck me.  First an all steel structure for a road overbridge seems to be massive overkill and second. the lack of definition of the rivets is glaringly obvious.  Now the model itself is extremely well designed but card has limitations in 7mm.  I can't speak for 4mm and I'd like to hear from those who have done this bridge in the smaller scale.

 

My decision therefore was to build the jack arch version.  My method was to copy the girder design in plastic strip.  The obvious problem with that is rivets.  My solution was to order 0 gauge rivet transfers from Archer.  I think I went through nearly 3 packets when I was done.

 

The end result is this:

 

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The abutments were multiple layers of card that required a lot of sanding to get smooth.  After I had done those I got smart and used foam board with card to make the wing walls and wing walls abutments.  In foam board is 5mm thick so not suitable for the "Heavy card" called for in the kit.  This is about 3.5mm and I got a sheet of that from a local art store.  However where 3 or 4 layers of heavy card is called, foam board is very useful, and a darn sight easier to cut.

 

I made the end board over the last couple of days.  This had to wait for the bridge to be finished.  I'm not sure if the paint will be permanent or whether I will cover with photographic backscene.

 

I better get on with track laying now.

 

John

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  • 4 weeks later...

They are Lcut kits.  I wrapped them with Scalescenes brick paper.  Windows are laser cut from the kit. 

 

I have a lot of Lcut kits, there is a large range of buildings and parts for scratchbuilding. 

 

I'm also building Scalescenes buildings where appropriate. 

 

I recently got a package of Skytrex stuff, such as MR/LMS cattle dock, level crossing and large yard crane.  Slowly building up my infrastructure.

 

John

 

 

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My statement above that the single slip was the final turnout for the layout was a bit premature.  Dithering and ruminating led me to think that rather than straight turnouts, wye turnouts would work better to give me slightly curved track.

 

I finished three of these today:

 

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You will note that the middle one is Peco but modified.  I soldered the blades to the rail joiner heel.  I noted that the rail joiner is loose and I would anticipate that with tarnish, dirt and paint, electrical conductivity will eventually be lost.  I intend to use Tortoiuse motors with 0.032" steel operating wire.  These have the muscle to move the blades.

 

The other thing I did was remove the facing point lock box and tiebar.  Peco are notorious for huge gaps between blade and stock rail.  I installed a pair of JLTRT tiebars (28mm spacing).  I replaced the original parts with Peco plastic timbers.

 

The other two were glued to Peco templates and built up using Intentio timbers, stained.  Peco chairs were also used.  One of the turnouts was made with C&L rail.  Notwithstanding statements that C&L rail is not compatible with Peco chairs, the assembly went together with little trouble.  The chairs were tight but went on fine.

 

I may just leave the paper backing on and install them that way.  I did use CA to secure the rail to the slide chairs but this area is a weak spot.

 

John

 

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On 19/12/2019 at 20:42, brossard said:

 

 

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The wavy tops are a tip from an acquaintance.  Solid straight tops distract the eye but the wavy top is supposed to blend things better.

I thought the tide was coming in.... :scratchhead::mosking:

 

Sorry, coat, hat etc.... ;)

 

I do like the subtle curve to the layout. :good:

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