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Balmoral Road - Some Industrial Background Buildings


brossard
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On 17/05/2020 at 16:09, brossard said:

Garage done:

 

P1010213.JPG.c51463d3882fae4f10009c0b79aef3c9.JPG

 

Pumps are from Scalelink.

 

P1010214.JPG.d79ced8acf27279e6d59fd30e44cda0d.JPG

 

I'll have to think about detailing later.

 

John

 

 

John

 

Do you just scale this up before printing as an O version is not produced. 

 

I've also looked at the Scalelink site and cant find those specific pumps - do you have a link

 

Many thanks

 

Paul R

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I decided to make a start on the terraced houses that will go at the end of the layout.  These are Scalescenes T022a:

 

https://scalescenes.com/product/t022a-terraced-houses/

 

Designed for 4mm but can be readily scaled up to 7mm as I have done.

 

Windows and doors are the challenge with these, but I do have bespoke windows from Intentio.  I had to make my own doors from plastic card and strip.  Letterboxes and door locks are from Fretcetera.

 

 

P1010014-001.JPG.394e4a820421bb77affef89b080a03a1.JPG

 

I'm currently working on the bay windows.

 

Interior walls were erected yesterday:

 

 

P1010013-002.JPG.fded193e2dd722235e489e4a7c2f8d29.JPG

 

P1010012-001.JPG.4dc1a3ba6229213db16d0590217f7f85.JPG

 

Where the kit calls for Heavy card, I use 3.5mm foam board.  I have 3.5mm card but it is exhausting to cut.  As you cut and fit parts, it is important to use a sanding stick to minimise errors.

 

John

Edited by brossard
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A bit more house build progress:

 

 

P1010015.JPG.339626be92feaf415f8e015e385cc102.JPG

 

Back walls up.  Windows look good I think, curtains and all.

 

 

P1010016.JPG.8400ebc15624c139b3e6e5ec5a76c2b8.JPG

 

The windows are pretty thick ~ 3.5mm so I added interior walls to flush things up.

 

I am working on bay windows for the front.  These are quite time consuming but we're getting there.

 

John

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  • 2 weeks later...

Intermission time from house building.  I got an email from Hattons for Class 20's on sale on Monday.  I grabbed the last green one with small yellow panels.

 

I converted the layout to DC temporarily and gave it a run, works great.

 

 

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I need to add the cab numbers.

 

I ordered a Zimo sound system from Digitrains.

 

John

 

Edited by brossard
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As mentioned the house build is almost done:

 

 

P1010022.JPG.17ddaaf0080868610010067689ab4f7f.JPG

 

The bay windows were quite challenging.  I made the windows as usual with Evergreen strip and then integrated them into the subassembly using the instructions as a guide.  My process deviated a lot from the kit intent.  Difficult to describe because it was a case of me making it up as I went along.

 

 

P1010023.JPG.6727ed8240b0e7691842cd6ae7108803.JPG

 

The intention is to add a shop to the end of the house:

 

https://scalescenes.com/product/t022c-corner-shops/

 

The houses need to be mounted on a base and front yards and pavements built.  Before I can do that, the shop will need to be done so I can see what goes where.

 

The kit comes with a back yard but I don't think I will have the space for a full yard.  That remains to be seen.

 

John

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Delighted to report that my sound system arrived from Digitrains today:

 

 

P1010024.JPG.1f74f9997041804185f3390096a2d9d9.JPG

 

That's a MX644C, with ZS20ASL sound file installed, in the replacement CB.

 

Stay alive is 87007.

 

It may be a while before I install.  I'm waiting for a driver from ModelU and wnat to take the lid off only the once.

 

John

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I spent roughly about a week constructing the corner shop:

 

https://scalescenes.com/product/t022c-corner-shops/

 

For the record my kit is T023.

 

It took quite a bit of time and effort to produce the first floor windows and doors.  These were made from Evergreen strip of various thickness and width.

 

 

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P1010032.JPG.50226048354e36f228a66b58990fc380.JPG

 

 

P1010033.JPG.a519a3490537f433df71eb786fdb9876.JPG

 

Still quite a bit of work left to do.  I need to fit interior elements and chimney pots.  The main thing will be to integrate everything together with the houses and road.

 

Scalescenes are challenging models but produce a very pleasing end result.

 

John

Edited by brossard
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It would be great if someone stepped up to produce Scalescenes compatible doors, windows etc.  As I mentioned I got Intentio to make some windows for me.   I'm just not sure if a lot of people do Scalescenes in 7mm.

 

John

 

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1 hour ago, brossard said:

It would be great if someone stepped up to produce Scalescenes compatible doors, windows etc.  As I mentioned I got Intentio to make some windows for me.   I'm just not sure if a lot of people do Scalescenes in 7mm.

 

John

 

John, Ill speak to John Wiffen and see if he is ok with me making these available for general sale.

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That's great Phil.  I actually contacted Brassmasters about 7mm etched windows some while ago.  I wasn't told no, but as you might expect, it was all about demand.  It didn't go anywhere.

 

For me though, it is moot since I have now completed all the major buildings for my layout.  This doesn't mean I won't do any in the future.

 

Perhaps with better availability of windows, more people will get into Scalescenes in 7mm.  I can't imagine John having any objection to you doing them.

 

John

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  • brossard changed the title to Another as yet Unnamed Layout Take 2, New Single Slip

After a rather long wait, I finally got some slide chairs so I can begin the new single slip build.  I may have mentioned earlier that the old slip is too small (5' rad.)  while the new one in quite a bit bigger (9' rad.).  The old slip works but my J39 is unhappy.  Also after all the bodging I had to do to get it to work, it looks untidy.

 

P1010048.JPG.cefd388ebcaa05476e87b68fc8dcfecb.JPG

 

I used the Peco 7mm double slip template (Peco don't do a single in 7mm).  Wooden timbers stained and glued down.

 

Probably the trickiest bits are the crossings.  These were done as can be seen on crossing templates with rail soldered to brass strip.  Note the vee jigs made from copper clad strip.

 

P1010049.JPG.a8d077bf34720a8f6b9aff2a2b3dc180.JPG

 

Crossings trimmed and fit confirmed.

 

Lesson learned from the last slip is wiring.  I had a nightmare with that, but finally found a scheme that works:

 

http://www.stciers.me.uk/home/track_wiring/s_slip.pdf

 

If you study it, you will see that the slip must be built with wiring in mind.

 

John

 

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First steps done:

 

P1010050.JPG.744d1f61de89ae66ec8a6a3efd650a62.JPG

 

Crossings and stock rail chaired although there are still chairs missing.  As rail gets installed I will see where I have to cut chairs down.

 

The crossings are fixed using a combination of cut down running chairs (on the rail ends) and cut down slide chairs.  Note the nose of the vee rests on a timber.

 

I have a C&L template that shows what chairs to use and where.

 

The instructions that I'm using (Trax2) call for a straight edge to confirm alignment of the stock rail ends and opposite crossing vee.  This I did although I did have to adjust the stock rail a bit.

 

John

 

 

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I got the other stock rail shaped and fitted yesterday.  Today I worked on the closure rails:

 

P1010051.JPG.1ef45a76db3328852c9a6a42a4f6430a.JPG

 

The difficulty is compounded by having to adhere to the wiring instructions.  The closure rails are electrically bonded to the crossing.  I have done this using code 100 rail joiners and soldering.

 

The wiring instructions say to isolate the end of the closure rail and I have used plastic rail joiners for that.  Important, critical really, to ensure the closure rails are aligned with the stock rail.

 

I also made the check rails and these were soldered to the isolated rail.  I presoldered wire tails to the isolated rails, these are to be bonded to the stock rail.

 

The area around the center of the slip will eventually be glued with CA, but I will hold off on that until I'm fairly sure all the soldering is done.

 

John

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So, after I thought I had finished the slip, testing revealed a number of stupid mistakes.  :angry:After studying the problem I decided there was nothing for it but to strip it down and start again.

 

I'll be kind to myself and tell myself that the first effort was a dry run.  Certainly the time consuming work of cutting and shaping the rails had already been done.  All that was required was to put things back together, paying a little more attention to rail alignment.

 

Printing off a clean copy of the template was a helpful reference.  I could lay my rail onto that to get things right.

 

P1010054.JPG.1bebe5a8152d1108a7630eef1a11409c.JPG

 

The major difference is in the top stock rail.  This is now two pieces soldered together to give a better defined angle.  The other things to note are plastic card packing pieces at the center.  These are 1.5mm thick (2 layers) to stop wheels going "kerthunk" when falling into the hole.  The crossings are quite smooth so I didn't pack those.

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Yesterday I wired the slip.  This entailed several jumpers to bond the various rails.  See the link above for which pieces of rail need to be bonded.

 

Today was the fiddly job of stretcher bars.  I'm using the JLTRT (now MM1) pack:

 

P1010001-022.JPG.b381b1ba9bc14cbfeebf0a8a8dec6a3d.JPG

 

The copper clad strip is from C&L and is 3mm wide by 1mm thick.  There are several options given in the pack directions from double sided tape to glue.  I prefer solder.

 

The stretcher bars used today were my last ones:

 

P1010055.JPG.320852dd98a91c9a79f6c7e09fadba0c.JPG

 

On the right is a jig I made to give me 29mm from tab to tab.  I have already tinned the etches and both sides of the copper clad strip.

 

P1010056.JPG.59109014ea915dd3d3d3f61a47754d5b.JPG

 

I sweated the etches to the copper clad, folded up the tabs and soldered.

 

P1010057.JPG.a03e1e4715c0884247b6c2b8e23fcc4d.JPG

 

Stretcher bars soldered in place.  I have found empirically that a 2mm gap works well.  Blades are 29mm apart measured from the inside.

 

I need to make drilled tabs to take the operating rod.  The tabs supplied are right under the rail so they had to go.

 

John

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Here's a comparison shot of the two slips:

 

 

P1010058.JPG.aafe9675d0696cbe77c2612afdd8b9bc.JPG

 

Things are now in the hands of the PW dept.  I have pulled up track at both ends of the slip along with the old slip.

 

I will slowly reinstate things.  Getting the track to align with the new slip appears to be not too bad.

 

John

 

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  • 8 months later...

A video shot on Friday with the other two members of the Montreal British 0 Gauge Society or MBOGS can be found on the club Facebook page at the bottom of this post (I tried to link it but it won't work)

 

Quite happy about the operating session.  The layout performed well and there were no derailments.  Stock was well behaved too.

 

John

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