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Building a London Road Models K2/2 Kit


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Smokebox saddle now completed so I have moved on to prepareing the cab parts prior to fitting and soldering.

I have a few good images of K2/2's with some cab sheet detail but no close-ups. As the name suggests, the cab sides were usually made up of an angle iron frame with sheets riveted and/or set screwed to the frame.

I therefore like to score the cab side with a scriber to replicate the seperate sheets and then add rivet and screw detail.

Take a look at 61758 below.

IMG_20170227_0026-L.jpg.ceaeef79a0e88cbe5b41acce74078333.jpg

552397399_001(2).JPG.eb143b437242da6112027565da33899b.JPG

 

The cab edge beading is perhaps too chunky, I have tried to reduce but may solder fine wire to the cab edges instead.

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

 

Edited by 30368
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I have disided to discard the rather "heavy" beading for the cab supplied with the kit in favour of wire. Fairly easy to bend to profile and locate to the cab edge by hair clips. I have also bent the cab roof to shape and soldered the rainstrips to the roof. Did these loco's have cab vents???

 

1390424532_001(2).JPG.02519f41f57b48247aca96ea90e2c2b5.JPG

 

Suffered a bit by too much solder! Some more clean-up work to do.

 

969593992_002(2).JPG.b243a8377fb8fc9e0be5555240930852.JPG

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

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22 minutes ago, 30368 said:

I have disided to discard the rather "heavy" beading for the cab supplied with the kit in favour of wire. Fairly easy to bend to profile and locate to the cab edge by hair clips. I have also bent the cab roof to shape and soldered the rainstrips to the roof. Did these loco's have cab vents???

 

1390424532_001(2).JPG.02519f41f57b48247aca96ea90e2c2b5.JPG

 

Suffered a bit by too much solder! Some more clean-up work to do.

 

969593992_002(2).JPG.b243a8377fb8fc9e0be5555240930852.JPG

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

 

For removing excess solder I strongly recommend https://www.moleroda.com/product/small-3m-radial-discs-19mm-25mm/?attribute_size=19mm&attribute_grit=80g+-+(Yellow)+Coarse&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIsMXnyLuc5gIVV-DtCh0CtwcJEAQYAiABEgIF4PD_BwE .

 

Available from numerous outlets and in a range of degrees of abrasiveness, they transform a thankless tasc into the work of moments !

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

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On 03/12/2019 at 15:42, 30368 said:

552397399_001(2).JPG.eb143b437242da6112027565da33899b.JPG

 

The cab edge beading is perhaps too chunky, I have tried to reduce but may solder fine wire to the cab edges instead.

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

 

 

Richard,

 

I've been looking at GNR beading, and how to make it. The beading is a "sort of" half-round section 2" by 5/8".

 

The other point to remember is that the GNR tended to put beading on both sides of any plate surface. I cannot say for sure what happened on the Scottish cabs, but the GA I have for an NB Loco "as-built" K2 shows beading on both sides of the cab plate. It also shows a sharp-ish in-curve circa 6" radius on the rear edge.

 

I'm afraid I don't know whether the same is true for the Scottish cabs.

 

 

 

Edited by davelester
too much quoting
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3 hours ago, D-A-T said:

Can I ask what grade of grit wheel you use please. 

 

I have all of them, and use them according to the job in hand; clearly, thick solder deposits will require a coarser wheel than a surface film.

 

Be a little circumspect when using the coarser grades - you don't want to create a 'dish' in the underlying etch. If in doubt, scrape the bulk of the solder away with a D-shaped scalpel blade, and then polish away the residue with a relatively fine wheel.

 

What you are aiming for is the merest seam of solder visible along the joint; a single wheel, used alone, will get into the narrowest of gaps.

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

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14 hours ago, davelester said:

 

 

 

Richard,

 

I've been looking at GNR beading, and how to make it. The beading is a "sort of" half-round section 2" by 5/8".

 

The other point to remember is that the GNR tended to put beading on both sides of any plate surface. I cannot say for sure what happened on the Scottish cabs, but the GA I have for an NB Loco "as-built" K2 shows beading on both sides of the cab plate. It also shows a sharp-ish in-curve circa 6" radius on the rear edge.

 

I'm afraid I don't know whether the same is true for the Scottish cabs.

 

 

 

 

Eileen's emporium do some half-round section. It's not cheap but looks good.

 

IMG_20190301_142735.jpg.0ad776c7847cf0fe3f3dbea39ec886b2.jpg

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Hi John,

 

Have taken your advice and ordered 19mm of all three grades. Have doubled the order quantity for the fine grade since I suspect this is going to be the most used.

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

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Today I continued with the cab components and the smokbox wrapper. The Bentley Model Railway Club have asked me to number the loco 61784 which was allocated to Fort William and is un-named. It had a snap head riveted smokbox wrapper so more work required!

The second cab side beading was soldered a lot less clumsely by me and has not yet been trimmed and cleaned up. Looking forward to receiving discs from Moleroda that John Isherwood has recommended sounds as if they will make cleaning off excess solder much easier.

 

1983031000_001(2).JPG.e9500766a86bb5639af405d4d564144b.JPG

Although the RH cab beading is not as bad as it looks in the picture I think I might start again!

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

 

 

 

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2 hours ago, 30368 said:

HI Bucoops,

 

Have you restarted work on the N7 then? Beading looks good.

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

 

 

Thanks :)  Not yet, work as been too busy and just had a holiday as well so work is now double busy trying to catch up!

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Working on my layout (70D) so progress has slowed a bit. Cab now fabricated and fitted to the footplate. I assembled the two sides and cab front first and chaecked for alignment and squareness before soldering to the footplate. Poor pictures I'm afraid.

141449977_003(2).JPG.bd238e248d5586d79c347770b92200f7.JPG

 

1861858399_004(2).JPG.b87249cf05ea28bb6f84a24c6f65f894.JPG

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

 

 

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19 hours ago, 30368 said:

Working on my layout (70D) so progress has slowed a bit. Cab now fabricated and fitted to the footplate. I assembled the two sides and cab front first and chaecked for alignment and squareness before soldering to the footplate. Poor pictures I'm afraid.

 

 

Richard,

 

Here is a photo of the cab of Loch Arkaig (from Yeadon volume 18).Untitled copy.pdf

 

You can see the curve of the cab side-sheet. On the original you can see the beading on the inside.

 

Two other points: the rivets holding the tender beading to the front of the tender show. And the cottered connecting rod big end is not present; this appears to have a non-cottered form.

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Dave,

 

Many thanks a really useful and rare view. Just have to dismantle the cab!! This will be fine I'm sure.

 

Progress -

Have added the Wakefield and gravity lubricators to the footplate. Noticed that some of the Scottish loco's have two but 61784 had one Wakefield Lub.

 

Started on the boiler. The seam is soldered and will fit smokebox wrapper next. The "washer" forming the front of the smokebox needs to be carefully aligned so that the handrails, which curve around from the side of the smokebox to the front can be fitted.

 

Some have commented on my high level of loco building productivity! That is a nice complement but I do have many other interests not least being thethree shifts a week as a volunteer at my local hospital. It seems to me that if you have always worked hard retirement is really difficult so my solution is to keep going! As I may have mentioned, building little loco's is also really good for the soul!

 

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Kind regards,

 

Richard B

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Phew! Have managed to gently de-solder the corners of the cab sidesheets and applied the necessary curvature. I guess I should have realised the need for the curve given all the cab end pictures of A3/A4. Perhaps I'm too used to building all those ex-LSWR loco's where such fancy stuff was usually ignored although some of Drummond's 4-6-0's were a bit "gothic".

 

Boiler has now been trimmed to fit the motor and gearbox using a Proxxon drill with a small grind wheel. Seems to fit well although final fettling needed but before final fit there are lots of mud trap covers and washout plugs to fit. Begining to look like a K2 at last.

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Thanks for all the help so far - keep it coming!

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

 

 

 

 

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Firstly I have been away for a day or two meeting grandchild number seven and very lovely he is too!

 

JB - I have a copy of the picture posted by you and it has been a great help. I agree with Adrian, the weathering is great for a post WW2 loco - filthy and neglected! Very good.

 

Many thanks Adrian, much appreciated. Gresley's engines were graceful designs and this is my first attempt at building one of his loco's being very much a SR/LSWR modeller. I do have a (DJH) Thompson A2/2 to build but that is a very different prospect more brutal than graceful but still interesting.

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

 

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Chimney and dome now fitted and first three boiler bands soldered to boiler. Base of smokbox needed some filing to fit down into saddle.

 

Note that front boiler washout plug cover not fitted since pictures of prototype only show two on this side. Always wise to research out some decent pictures of the loco to be modelled.

453574402_001(2).JPG.e94074f82dc71d47e2d7d64049eb94a9.JPG

 

199887445_002(2).JPG.733b0ff631632a5055503e0f2e419e3d.JPG

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

 

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Thanks for the interest and help.

 

I have now completed the boiler bands and added the superheater header cover to the smokebox. The latter caused some concern in that I was unsure if it was fitted or not. Most pictures of loco's are taken from the ground so the header cover is not really visable being sited behind the chimney. Using the magnification facility on the viewing software I could just make out the edge of the cover and the fixing bolts so it was fitted.

 

I also used John Isherwood's suggested method of cleaning off the solder using Moleroda polishing wheels. I used the finest (blue) wheel. Much quicker than a file and paper but the boiler pretty much finished of the wheel (They are about a £1 each). Next time I will use a medium grade wheel then finish with the fine.

 

Some pictures_

 

Boiler band tacked to the boiler

712709870_001(2).JPG.6594eb3487ce7b2929872322252c7c15.JPG

Firebox band held in place by clips and tack soldered

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Firebox band before cleaning up.

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Polishing wheel ready for action

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First pass with wheel

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Almost done

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Finished! and so is the wheel!

1985911821_011(2).JPG.7bcced5152d2b9ea5910387550922008.JPG

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

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Moved on with the body detail today.

View of the firebox expansion bracket covers. I cut away the top section for access to the mud hole covers as on the prototype.

1303175339_001(2).JPG.5f5c6478cf1f970b62d472f6529d9dce.JPG

 

View of the vacuum ejector pipe and steampipe covers now fitted. I added very thin section brass flanges to the smokebox sides befre fitting the steampipe covers.

254751830_003(2).JPG.dd9f7dbbd749a9d8b7817a59304732d6.JPG

General view.

274493249_006(2).JPG.b23f7a4d7ac79d8fd74151928d6c463a.JPG

 

Close up of the front end.

1283125489_009(2).JPG.2aeda2c651e178ad014083e8a9e095bd.JPG

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

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