DCC fitted loco not moving on DC track (beginner question!)

[ed1234]

As an initial foray into getting back into the hobby, I bought a DCC fitted loco from Hattons (a Bachmann Class 37). It is a pre-owned locomotive, but in very good condition. I also bought the basic Gaugemaster GMC-COMBI controller, not wanting to splurge on a DCC setup at this time. I have connected the controller to the track via the DC output, as suggested in the handbook.

 

When I sit it on my track and power up the track, the running lights will come on but the engine will sit there making a soft humming sound. As I turn up the power, the lights get brighter. With a little encouragement it will creep along the track very slowly.

 

What am I doing wrong?

 

I had thought that a DCC train will run on DC track without modification, albeit with a tendency to shoot off at speed. Do I need to take out the chip and re-fit the blanking plug (which I think I have in the box)? 

 

Any suggestions gratefully received.

 

 

[ELTEL]

It may be that the chip fitted is not programmed for DC operation.

 

Some DCC chips can be programmed to run on a DC supply 

 

Eltel 

 

[traction]

A DCC fiited loco will run on DC, if the chip can support it and its been switched on!

You can change a CV to switch off running in DC, to prevent the loco from running away at fast speed when using DCC.

As you don't have a DCC controller, I would as you've said refit the blanking plug and test that way, at least you will know the loco is working correctly.

 

Cheers

 

Ian

[Dungrange]

7 minutes ago, ed1234 said:

When I sit it on my track and power up the track, the running lights will come on but the engine will sit there making a soft humming sound. As I turn up the power, the lights get brighter. With a little encouragement it will creep along the track very slowly.

 

As others have said, DCC users can disable DC control using a Configuration Variable (CV): CV29.  Seeing the topic thread, my assumption was as above that the previous owner had disabled DC control and this was your problem.

 

However, if CV29 is set to disable DC running, then it shouldn't be possible to get the locomotive to creep along the track under any circumstances.  The decoder should completely ignore the voltage difference between the rails (which is how DC operation works).  As such, I'm not convinced that this is the problem.  However, I agree that the best place to start is by removing the DCC decoder and putting the blanking plate back in.  This will remove one potential issue from the equation. 

[NIK]

21 minutes ago, ed1234 said:

As an initial foray into getting back into the hobby, I bought a DCC fitted loco from Hattons (a Bachmann Class 37). It is a pre-owned locomotive, but in very good condition. I also bought the basic Gaugemaster GMC-COMBI controller, not wanting to splurge on a DCC setup at this time. I have connected the controller to the track via the DC output, as suggested in the handbook.

 

When I sit it on my track and power up the track, the running lights will come on but the engine will sit there making a soft humming sound. As I turn up the power, the lights get brighter. With a little encouragement it will creep along the track very slowly.

 

What am I doing wrong?

 

I had thought that a DCC train will run on DC track without modification, albeit with a tendency to shoot off at speed. Do I need to take out the chip and re-fit the blanking plug (which I think I have in the box)? 

 

Any suggestions gratefully received.

 

 

Hi,

 

The symptoms seem similar to some of my Bachmann diesels where the drive to one of the gear towers has become loose so one of the worms wont turn properly and the gear tower acts as a brake.

 

If so hopefully others will advise you (and me) on how to get the loco working again.

 

Regards

 

Nick

[Crosland]

Does the GMC-COMBI output pure DC ?

[WIMorrison]

The GMC-Combi runs DCC locos perfectly when CV29 has DC enabled, I use one clean my loco wheels

 

I would start looking for a mechanical issue as it does sound like the motor is trying to turn but something is holding it back - that would account for the hum and the ability tanks it creep

[JohnDMJ]

If the loco is configured to run on DC, it needs at least 5V on the track before anything happens. The Combi will oblige!

[ed1234]

Many thanks all. I refitted the blanking plate and the same issue presented itself, suggesting this is probably a loco issue rather than a power issue. It definitely tries to proceed, but doesn't seem to be able to.

 

At the expense of sounding like someone who gives up far too easily, I expect this will now go back in its box until I next have an opportunity to work out whether I have the skills and the interest in tinkering with it.  

 

Of the two pre-owned locomotives I bought, one had a broken chassis which meant it was unusable without major repairs, and the other is this one...

[34theletterbetweenB&D]

5 hours ago, NIK said:

...The symptoms seem similar to some of my Bachmann diesels where the drive to one of the gear towers has become loose so one of the worms wont turn properly and the gear tower acts as a brake.

 

If so hopefully others will advise you (and me) on how to get the loco working again.

This is probably the problem, a drive shaft can drop out of engagement in transit for example, and there you are, loco on power, motor running, little to no progress.

 

Quick external confirmation. Use felt marker to put ink dots on the sides of the tyres, put the loco on the rails and give it power. If one set of dots don't move, that;s the one not getting drive. If that's the case come back and someone here will discuss potential causes and fixes.

[ed1234]

Ok, confession time. As a firm believer in publishing one's mistakes so someone else might learn: the issue was with the power supply. Not the Gaugemaster, but the step-up transformer (I live in a 110V jurisdiction). It was set to accept an input voltage of 220V, rather than 120V, so wasn't stepping up enough. As soon as the right breaker was inserted, everything worked fine.

 

Thanks again for all your help.

[kevinlms]

10 hours ago, ed1234 said:

Ok, confession time. As a firm believer in publishing one's mistakes so someone else might learn: the issue was with the power supply. Not the Gaugemaster, but the step-up transformer (I live in a 110V jurisdiction). It was set to accept an input voltage of 220V, rather than 120V, so wasn't stepping up enough. As soon as the right breaker was inserted, everything worked fine.

 

Thanks again for all your help.

Congratulations on 2 counts.

 

1/ For sorting the issue out.

 

2/ For having a fault, where every single bit of advice you got from the RMweb members, was in fact incorrect!

 

[NIK]

7 hours ago, kevinlms said:

Congratulations on 2 counts.

 

1/ For sorting the issue out.

 

2/ For having a fault, where every single bit of advice you got from the RMweb members, was in fact incorrect!

 

Hi,

 

I didn't give advice - given the information given in the original post I suggested a possible failure mode that I had experienced.

 

Regards

 

Nick

[melmerby]

18 hours ago, ed1234 said:

Ok, confession time. As a firm believer in publishing one's mistakes so someone else might learn: the issue was with the power supply. Not the Gaugemaster, but the step-up transformer (I live in a 110V jurisdiction). It was set to accept an input voltage of 220V, rather than 120V, so wasn't stepping up enough. As soon as the right breaker was inserted, everything worked fine.

 

Thanks again for all your help.

That is a lesson on when to have a basic multimeter available as the (lack of) voltage on the track would have been a big clue!

[kevinlms]

On 01/10/2019 at 03:14, NIK said:

Hi,

 

I didn't give advice - given the information given in the original post I suggested a possible failure mode that I had experienced.

 

Regards

 

Nick

OK, I concede that, but it wasn't the actual solution!