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Scale7JB

7mm LNER D16/3 - Two years down and nothing to show !

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Thanks Ade, really happy with it so far. There will be a mk3 chassis etch and mk2 body etch, but for a first full test build I really can't complain.

 

JB. 

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SWill try and get a few more bits done tomorrow before its big debut. It'll have a big clean before then with glass fibres all over the shop and fingers!

Although 5 laminations per brake hanger/shoe, im very pleased with how they've come out.

I've spent the last couple of hours trying to justify the boiler dimensions, but I can't quite... Strange thing being that the boiler can't go down any further and the top of the firebox is the correct distance from the top of the cab. A chimney casting from LG on Sunday may change the look of things. Unfortunately he has run out of dome's, if you make it down I'll tell you why that may be a good thing. I still need to do a V2.0 etch for the body, and the first thing will be to make the smokebox rivets a whole lot bigger. I was erring on the side of caution when I first drew it, a bit too much.

Ejector elbow is a work of pure fiction in terms of design just to have something to put in there other than bent wire.

 

Is anyone coming to Bristol on Sunday?

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Really fine work JB - tempts me to try a 7mm build!

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

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9 hours ago, Scale7JB said:

SWill try and get a few more bits done tomorrow before its big debut. It'll have a big clean before then with glass fibres all over the shop and fingers!

Although 5 laminations per brake hanger/shoe, im very pleased with how they've come out.

I've spent the last couple of hours trying to justify the boiler dimensions, but I can't quite... Strange thing being that the boiler can't go down any further and the top of the firebox is the correct distance from the top of the cab. A chimney casting from LG on Sunday may change the look of things.

JB I’m in no way qualified to post here, but a casual observer.

here D16/3  even if that’s the correct prototype! The photo holds up to zooming in and I make out the bottom of the smokebox to be in line with the top horizontal line of rivets on the saddle. Your top photo above shows that exactly. Yours has a lot of daylight under the barrel there must be a reason why the prototype photo doesn’t give that impression.

Reckon you nailed it.

Brilliant work.

 Cheers 

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6 hours ago, Adrian Stevenson said:

Really nice work.

 

I am looking forward to the show tomorrow.

 

Cheers, Ade.

Thanks Ade, pop by Love Lane layout, and the loco should be sat in the loco yard unless I'm out taking it to see people about bits and pieces.

 

JB. 

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6 hours ago, 30368 said:

Really fine work JB - tempts me to try a 7mm build!

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

Careful Richard, 7mm is a slippery slope. If you're nearby it is the Bristol Gauge O Guild show tomorrow.

 

JB. 

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5 hours ago, AdeMoore said:

JB I’m in no way qualified to post here, but a casual observer.

here D16/3  even if that’s the correct prototype! The photo holds up to zooming in and I make out the bottom of the smokebox to be in line with the top horizontal line of rivets on the saddle. Your top photo above shows that exactly. Yours has a lot of daylight under the barrel there must be a reason why the prototype photo doesn’t give that impression.

Reckon you nailed it.

Brilliant work.

 Cheers 

Many thanks for your casual observations..

 

Once I have a Chimney on there I can make a final call.

 

JB. 

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Good session on the loco yesterday and so some shots of it on the layout.

 

JB. 

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19 minutes ago, Adrian Stevenson said:

I did see it today. It looked great.

Thanks Adrian.

 

It got some good interests, you should have said hello..

 

gooefully have sole sole further updates soon, as I need to try the etched valve gear, including making up the crank axle.

 

Hope you had a good day!

 

JB. 

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24 minutes ago, Adrian Stevenson said:

Very enjoyable day thanks. It is a great show and rapidly becoming my favourite.

It's a long way from East London!

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JB,

Will definitely  be interested in a couple of kits if you go into production with it. Looks superb.

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53 minutes ago, CUTLER2579 said:

JB,

Will definitely  be interested in a couple of kits if you go into production with it. Looks superb.

Ah that's great thanks. I have more revisions to do, and also to work out how to do a Finescale version but I think I'm there with how to do it. Will be an add-on etch of course.

 

Watch this his space but hope to have a properly sorted final prototype for the Kettering show in March. That's what I'm aiming for at least.

 

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JB. 

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Thought I'd crack on with the etched crank webs and produce the axle.

All went very nicely until I'd got it together and found the cranks are 1mm too wide. Damn!

 

Will redo tomorrow.
 

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JB. 

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Hi Michael, yes soldered to a Slaters axle. Not sure how much detail you need as an answer, but I had to use a micro flame to get enough heat into the whole lot to allow the solder to flow nicely into all the joints.

 

I also used electrical solder with plenty of powerflow flux to make a stronger join than 145 solder would have given me.

 

if you need any further information just shout.

 

JB. 

Edited by Scale7JB

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I hope it stays in one piece. I have done this in the past with rather mixed results, the last one I did came back from the painter broken but I did manage to pin it back together. There is a huge stress on the crankshaft joints when someone squeezes the driving wheels while picking the loco up and the bigger the wheels are the more likely this is to break the axle. I see more damage from locos being gripped tightly (for fear of dropping them) than anything else. When I have built up crank axles for cast iron wheels I have used brass instead of steel axles and these have given no trouble at all. I have considered reproducing a Slater's axle in brass for better soft soldering but haven't tried it yet.

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1 hour ago, Michael Edge said:

I hope it stays in one piece. I have done this in the past with rather mixed results, the last one I did came back from the painter broken but I did manage to pin it back together. There is a huge stress on the crankshaft joints when someone squeezes the driving wheels while picking the loco up and the bigger the wheels are the more likely this is to break the axle. I see more damage from locos being gripped tightly (for fear of dropping them) than anything else. When I have built up crank axles for cast iron wheels I have used brass instead of steel axles and these have given no trouble at all. I have considered reproducing a Slater's axle in brass for better soft soldering but haven't tried it yet.

 

I must admit I'm tempted to do the next one with silver solder. I'm pretty sure that if used in small enough amounts at a time I should be able to get enough heat into it for the silver solder to flow. That should be nigh on indestructible.

 

I think I may also change the diameter of the crank material swell, its a touch small and I will enlarge to 3/16".

 

I think I may have done one silly thing yesterday. After soldering with the micro flame i quenched the axle immediately in cold water, and fear I may have caused it to move just the tiniest amount. I'm thinking I should have left it to cool gently which would have stopped any stresses in the metal showing themselves. This however is my error and not the kit so I'm still happy. 

JB.

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