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colliery/industrial track


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  • 2 weeks later...
  • RMweb Gold
3 hours ago, bike2steam said:

Ash ballast to the top of the sleeper, I'm looking for the best way to achieve such a look on my latest layout!!:sungum: 

Humbrol dry clay: http://nevardmedia.blogspot.com/2012/08/layout-focus-catcott-burtle.html

cdn_080419_catcottclay_IMG_1045_WEB.jpg

Edited by Regularity
Obviously, you then paint/stain it!
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On 25/10/2019 at 14:05, 1whitemoor said:


The sleepers you've photographed are ex-Ministry Of Supply obtained from Corby steelworks upon closure. I can't say I've seen these in any colliery images but they were certainly used at cement works and quarries. 

 

DSC_0448.JPG.0e4c71cca7fd14dbedae581f781285c0.JPG

 

Paul A. 

 

 

I've had some of these 3D printed in resin as scenic items for my layout, not sure they would be suitable for use with C&L chairs due to the material. Excuse the poor quality photograph. 

 

DSC_0483.JPG

Edited by 1whitemoor
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14 hours ago, Mark Saunders said:

 

Personally I would try laying the track in pre cut panels with dipped joints rather than go for packing at one side only to have the level out!

 

I did cut the rack to roughly 60 ft lengths, I will try a dip at the joint, As its a small layout there's probably only one more place I could try it as I didn't want to mess about with the track around the points

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14 hours ago, Regularity said:

 

GREAT STUFF!!!! Thanks for that, I knew someone would come up with a good idea.:sungum: I've put that article in 'favorites' so as I can call it up later to refer to, only about 80 foot of track to do it to!!??

Edited by bike2steam
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I've done a few experiments and found that to do the dips and rises are a challenge as they cant be too severe on a siding with free running stock! With hindsight on my layout I would of laid the track on card no more than 2mm thick then cut some away at a rail joint, however you have to be careful with short wheelbase locos as I think a wheel could lose contact with the rail.  

I've done a couple of wonky joints, I didn't use rail joiners and just laid the track easy enough to do and see how they look once ballasted etc.

 

Steve.

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

DAS clay is supposed to be pretty good for ash ballast. Chris Nevard I believe uses fine grade ballast and then spreads DAS clay thinly over the top of it once the ballast has cured.

 

Here's some industrial trackage on my O scale American layout - inspired by Jordan/FUnitMad.

 

Hand laid on coffee stirrer sleepers. I think it looks the part. :)

IMG_20191019_205959.jpg.a4baf9d81ed8cf99c02b52b743f16a60.jpg

Edited by DanielB
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  • RMweb Gold

To get the "ash ballast" look on my Ladmanlow layout, I laid the track direct on the ply base, and then used 2mm / 3mm cork cut round the sleepers to bring the ground surface up, with individually cut inserts between the sleepers and rails.

 

ladmanlow211.jpg.952360589d43e9f23af4ffb20be10a97.jpg

 

Then I painted the cork with grey emulsion, and spread real ash and stone dust over it.

 

ladmanlow677a.jpg.834c23853ad13ec9b8edcf1752ca9402.jpg

 

Al.

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Most RTR and even most sprung stock is not designed to accommodate modelled twisted track. Prototype vehicles however are designed to cope with rail bumps. dips and a moderate degree of track twist, because they have various forms of suspension.

 

If modifying the track without modifying the vehicles to suit, you are limited to overall wheel lift of <50% of the flange depth if you want to avoid any wheel climbing derailment, especially on any curves.  Usually model rigid chassis 4 or 6 wheel vehicles will rock, with one wheel lifting off the rails on uneven track. Bogie vehicles require both bogies to freely tilt fore an aft with at least one bogie having the ability to tile sideways as well.

 

3 Axle and up locomotives are  more complicated, Those with only springing on the sides are least resistant to track twist, although they can usually handle singe bumps and dips quite well. 

 

Even if modelling really distorted track, note that no vehicle should be expected to survive gauge narrowing to the extent that any wheelset has both flanges against the rails at the same time.

 

Andy

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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  • 1 month later...

I've ballasted my bit of track, I've used fine brown ballast mixed with dries earth from my garden. The unevenness doesn't come through much in the photo but it is about as far as I could go before running was affected. I think the wonkiness would show better on a longer siding but I'm happy with it. I might try some washes of satin/gloss varnish to suggest the area is wet, not sure yet though. The area on the right is going to be DAS clay to represent a yard where the ground is compacted around the sleepers.

 

85024035_185154599432874_543945204172849152_n.jpg.331ebd8dace5bf6b02f8abab6342287e.jpg

 

84545529_141865166892961_5558816823631151104_n.jpg.cc2e33ec776082c5964d44e62bf328ea.jpg

 

 

Edited by sb67
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On 21/11/2019 at 13:11, sb67 said:

 

I did cut the rack to roughly 60 ft lengths, I will try a dip at the joint, As its a small layout there's probably only one more place I could try it as I didn't want to mess about with the track around the points

 

I suggest 30ft or 40 ft lengths would be the norm. Easier to handle.

Gordon A

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1 hour ago, Ruston said:

I've never heard of that. Is it like DAS, or is it, as the name suggests, dry as bought? A powder that is sprayed with water and sets, or something of that sort?

 

I'm not 100% certain but I'm pretty sure it's similar to DAS clay.

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  • RMweb Gold
On 13/02/2020 at 21:44, sb67 said:

 

I'm not 100% certain but I'm pretty sure it's similar to DAS clay.

I'm pretty sure, having talked to Chris about it a few years ago, that it is DAS clay, or any other air-drying clay.

 

However, Chris makes it look easy - it's actually quite time-consuming to get it to look like that!

 

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