Dzine Posted November 7, 2019 Author Share Posted November 7, 2019 Hi sb67, Glad you're going to have a go, that's just what's needed. I look forward to seeing the results and hope someone has an answer to your question. Kind regards Paul 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sb67 Posted November 20, 2019 Share Posted November 20, 2019 Laid my first bit of track. I just put some 2mm card under one side and created a wonky joint. Steve. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bike2steam Posted November 20, 2019 Share Posted November 20, 2019 Ash ballast to the top of the sleeper, I'm looking for the best way to achieve such a look on my latest layout!! 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sb67 Posted November 20, 2019 Share Posted November 20, 2019 Great photo, do you know how you're going to get that look? Steve. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bike2steam Posted November 20, 2019 Share Posted November 20, 2019 28 minutes ago, sb67 said: Great photo, do you know how you're going to get that look? Steve. Nope!! Not yet, I suppose part of the fiddle yard will end up being experimented on. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Saunders Posted November 20, 2019 Share Posted November 20, 2019 4 hours ago, sb67 said: Laid my first bit of track. I just put some 2mm card under one side and created a wonky joint. Steve. Personally I would try laying the track in pre cut panels with dipped joints rather than go for packing at one side only to have the level out! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Regularity Posted November 21, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 21, 2019 (edited) 3 hours ago, bike2steam said: Ash ballast to the top of the sleeper, I'm looking for the best way to achieve such a look on my latest layout!! Humbrol dry clay: http://nevardmedia.blogspot.com/2012/08/layout-focus-catcott-burtle.html Edited November 21, 2019 by Regularity Obviously, you then paint/stain it! 5 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rope runner Posted November 21, 2019 Share Posted November 21, 2019 (edited) On 25/10/2019 at 14:05, 1whitemoor said: The sleepers you've photographed are ex-Ministry Of Supply obtained from Corby steelworks upon closure. I can't say I've seen these in any colliery images but they were certainly used at cement works and quarries. Paul A. I've had some of these 3D printed in resin as scenic items for my layout, not sure they would be suitable for use with C&L chairs due to the material. Excuse the poor quality photograph. Edited November 21, 2019 by 1whitemoor 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sb67 Posted November 21, 2019 Share Posted November 21, 2019 14 hours ago, Mark Saunders said: Personally I would try laying the track in pre cut panels with dipped joints rather than go for packing at one side only to have the level out! I did cut the rack to roughly 60 ft lengths, I will try a dip at the joint, As its a small layout there's probably only one more place I could try it as I didn't want to mess about with the track around the points 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dzine Posted November 21, 2019 Author Share Posted November 21, 2019 sb67, great to see you experimenting, looking forward to see how it turns out. All the best Paul 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bike2steam Posted November 21, 2019 Share Posted November 21, 2019 (edited) 14 hours ago, Regularity said: Humbrol dry clay: http://nevardmedia.blogspot.com/2012/08/layout-focus-catcott-burtle.html GREAT STUFF!!!! Thanks for that, I knew someone would come up with a good idea. I've put that article in 'favorites' so as I can call it up later to refer to, only about 80 foot of track to do it to!!?? Edited November 21, 2019 by bike2steam Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sb67 Posted November 26, 2019 Share Posted November 26, 2019 I've done a few experiments and found that to do the dips and rises are a challenge as they cant be too severe on a siding with free running stock! With hindsight on my layout I would of laid the track on card no more than 2mm thick then cut some away at a rail joint, however you have to be careful with short wheelbase locos as I think a wheel could lose contact with the rail. I've done a couple of wonky joints, I didn't use rail joiners and just laid the track easy enough to do and see how they look once ballasted etc. Steve. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
doilum Posted November 30, 2019 Share Posted November 30, 2019 Not sure how to make a link, but the UK prototype discussion page has a thread on industrial locomotives with some excellent illustrations of colliery track (page 7). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielB Posted December 18, 2019 Share Posted December 18, 2019 (edited) DAS clay is supposed to be pretty good for ash ballast. Chris Nevard I believe uses fine grade ballast and then spreads DAS clay thinly over the top of it once the ballast has cured. Here's some industrial trackage on my O scale American layout - inspired by Jordan/FUnitMad. Hand laid on coffee stirrer sleepers. I think it looks the part. Edited December 18, 2019 by DanielB 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Alister_G Posted December 19, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 19, 2019 To get the "ash ballast" look on my Ladmanlow layout, I laid the track direct on the ply base, and then used 2mm / 3mm cork cut round the sleepers to bring the ground surface up, with individually cut inserts between the sleepers and rails. Then I painted the cork with grey emulsion, and spread real ash and stone dust over it. Al. 8 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Reichert Posted December 19, 2019 Share Posted December 19, 2019 Most RTR and even most sprung stock is not designed to accommodate modelled twisted track. Prototype vehicles however are designed to cope with rail bumps. dips and a moderate degree of track twist, because they have various forms of suspension. If modifying the track without modifying the vehicles to suit, you are limited to overall wheel lift of <50% of the flange depth if you want to avoid any wheel climbing derailment, especially on any curves. Usually model rigid chassis 4 or 6 wheel vehicles will rock, with one wheel lifting off the rails on uneven track. Bogie vehicles require both bogies to freely tilt fore an aft with at least one bogie having the ability to tile sideways as well. 3 Axle and up locomotives are more complicated, Those with only springing on the sides are least resistant to track twist, although they can usually handle singe bumps and dips quite well. Even if modelling really distorted track, note that no vehicle should be expected to survive gauge narrowing to the extent that any wheelset has both flanges against the rails at the same time. Andy 1 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sb67 Posted February 11, 2020 Share Posted February 11, 2020 (edited) I've ballasted my bit of track, I've used fine brown ballast mixed with dries earth from my garden. The unevenness doesn't come through much in the photo but it is about as far as I could go before running was affected. I think the wonkiness would show better on a longer siding but I'm happy with it. I might try some washes of satin/gloss varnish to suggest the area is wet, not sure yet though. The area on the right is going to be DAS clay to represent a yard where the ground is compacted around the sleepers. Edited February 11, 2020 by sb67 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
doilum Posted February 11, 2020 Share Posted February 11, 2020 Looking good. Now start thinking about the puddles! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon A Posted February 11, 2020 Share Posted February 11, 2020 On 21/11/2019 at 13:11, sb67 said: I did cut the rack to roughly 60 ft lengths, I will try a dip at the joint, As its a small layout there's probably only one more place I could try it as I didn't want to mess about with the track around the points I suggest 30ft or 40 ft lengths would be the norm. Easier to handle. Gordon A Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruston Posted February 13, 2020 Share Posted February 13, 2020 On 21/11/2019 at 00:33, Regularity said: Humbrol dry clay: http://nevardmedia.blogspot.com/2012/08/layout-focus-catcott-burtle.html I've never heard of that. Is it like DAS, or is it, as the name suggests, dry as bought? A powder that is sprayed with water and sets, or something of that sort? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Regularity Posted February 13, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 13, 2020 No idea: I just remembered that it looked very effective, and found the link. i think Chris Nevard is on RMWeb. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sb67 Posted February 13, 2020 Share Posted February 13, 2020 1 hour ago, Ruston said: I've never heard of that. Is it like DAS, or is it, as the name suggests, dry as bought? A powder that is sprayed with water and sets, or something of that sort? I'm not 100% certain but I'm pretty sure it's similar to DAS clay. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted February 15, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 15, 2020 On 13/02/2020 at 21:44, sb67 said: I'm not 100% certain but I'm pretty sure it's similar to DAS clay. I'm pretty sure, having talked to Chris about it a few years ago, that it is DAS clay, or any other air-drying clay. However, Chris makes it look easy - it's actually quite time-consuming to get it to look like that! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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