gordon s Posted October 14, 2019 Share Posted October 14, 2019 (edited) Decided to test run a few locos tonight on my layout, Eastwood Town and all was well until I totally misjudged the speed of my Hornby Black 5 and in my panic, failed to flick the direction switch. My 'new' and never run loco took a nose dive off the end of the board onto a hard wood floor, 3' below..... Fearing the worst I looked down to see a loco reasonably intact, but the tender smashed... The fall plate and both doors have broken, but can be stuck back on with care. The rear of the tender has completely broken away, but again with care could be stuck back and once weathered, may be OK. Most of the bits I can identify, but I'm stuck on these two? or are they one piece broken in two? They are about 10mm long and 5mm wide. I can't see any way the tender body is fixed to the tender chassis, so wondered if they are a screw boss that has broken. I've Googled the Hornby Service sheet, but can't see anything there, so I'm at a loss. ss-257e-black-5-locomotive-448(1).pdf Any idea where they've come from? Really annoyed with myself as it's not the first time..... Edit: Just checked again as I thought they may have been part of the tender axle slots, but no, so none the wiser. Edited October 15, 2019 by gordon s 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold pirouets Posted October 14, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 14, 2019 There not the steam exhaust pipes from the front of the loco on either side by any chance? Just look as though the fit against the boiler. Your not the 1st to do this by any means, but in golfing terms would this be the equivalent of a shank? (Sorry, couldn't resist) 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gordon s Posted October 14, 2019 Author Share Posted October 14, 2019 Thanks Steve. I thought the front of the boiler looked a little bare...... Obvious when you're not seething.. Still curious what holds the tender body onto its chassis though. Perhaps it just clips on. Nooooooooo! Don't say the 'S' word....... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold adb968008 Posted October 14, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 14, 2019 (edited) 17 minutes ago, gordon s said: Still curious what holds the tender body onto its chassis though. Perhaps it just clips on. Its a tiny lug, under the coal / well space join. it locks under the weight on the chassis. two screws under the tender footplate. Edited October 14, 2019 by adb968008 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gordon s Posted October 15, 2019 Author Share Posted October 15, 2019 Found a small boss this morning still with the screw inside. This appears to fit just to the right of the tender coupling spigot and electrical connection. I've managed to weld the boss back in place and now the screw retains the front of the tender body, which is better than nothing, but the back end still appears to have lost/broken a retaining lug to stop it lifting. Much better than when I left it last night. The steam pipes are back in position and everything is looking better. The fall plate appears to be metal, so plastic weld won't touch that and the cab doors are a pain as small fragments have broken away, so I don't have a break edge to work with. Looks like I'll have to use some thin plasticard to give them some internal support. Thanks for your help last night. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wickham Green Posted October 15, 2019 Share Posted October 15, 2019 Carefully applied suerglue might give a stronger join - especially to the screw boss ...... but don't glue the screw in ! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold MikeParkin65 Posted October 15, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 15, 2019 1 hour ago, gordon s said: Found a small boss this morning still with the screw inside. This appears to fit just to the right of the tender coupling spigot and electrical connection. I've managed to weld the boss back in place and now the screw retains the front of the tender body, which is better than nothing, but the back end still appears to have lost/broken a retaining lug to stop it lifting. Much better than when I left it last night. The steam pipes are back in position and everything is looking better. The fall plate appears to be metal, so plastic weld won't touch that and the cab doors are a pain as small fragments have broken away, so I don't have a break edge to work with. Looks like I'll have to use some thin plasticard to give them some internal support. Thanks for your help last night. Brassmasters do some lovely etched replacement cab doors for £3 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gordon s Posted October 15, 2019 Author Share Posted October 15, 2019 (edited) Post Deleted....Numpty Mode Edited October 15, 2019 by gordon s Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium PJT Posted October 15, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 15, 2019 (edited) 3 hours ago, MikeParkin65 said: Brassmasters do some lovely etched replacement cab doors for £3 ...and they do very nice fall plates appropriate for a Black Five, too (nicer than the Hornby version). In fact they do a detailing kit for the Black Five and most if not all the included parts are also available separately, so you can pick and choose what you want. There's a minimum order value of £10 with Brassmasters on mail orders, not applicable if you buy from them at shows, but when you look at their website I don't think it'll take long for you to come up with a shopping list of repair/detailing bits for your loco that gets up to the minimum amount. I'd just say that if you haven't used them before you'll need to bear in mind that response times from them on emails sometimes lag by a day or so - they have other jobs to go to! The kits are shown on their website; if you want individual bits you'll have to download the pdf price list to find them all. Chances are, before you know it, you'll have a Black Five that looks better than it did before the near-catastrophe. Pete T. (an occasional and very happy customer of Brassmasters) Edited October 15, 2019 by PJT Added details about price list 1 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Oldddudders Posted October 15, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 15, 2019 Gordon - is this a standard Hornby Stanier tender? I have two unused from Hornby's Bude 1948 Loco Exchange. PM me your address and I'll send one over. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold RedgateModels Posted October 15, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 15, 2019 What a nice place this can be 1 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gordon s Posted October 15, 2019 Author Share Posted October 15, 2019 (edited) 2 hours ago, Oldddudders said: Gordon - is this a standard Hornby Stanier tender? I have two unused from Hornby's Bude 1948 Loco Exchange. PM me your address and I'll send one over. Wow! What a generous offer, Ian and I will bear it in mind, but everything is now back together and you would never have known it had dived off the end of the layout. Of course, if it happens again, I'll know where to come... I think that mystery has been solved....... (hence the numpty post deleted above) Last night the loco was running via my Gaugemaster D controller and I thought I'd got into a muddle in panic mode and hadn't flicked the direction switch. When I was testing again this morning, I took the precaution of laying a cushion over the track at the end just in case lightning struck twice. Blow me if the loco did the same thing again and it seemed impervious to the change of direction switch. Checked that all out with a meter and that worked OK every time. Couldn't get my head round how a DC loco could behave that way until I took the body off and found I'd fitted a decoder.... I always default to not work on DC but this one must have passed me by and of course went off like a scalded cat and dived off the end.....Glad it wasn't me, but slightly embarrassed by the schoolboy error....That's what six months off does to you.... Edited October 15, 2019 by gordon s 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Dave John Posted October 15, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 15, 2019 Glad its all fixed, we all have moments like that. It must be said it isn't the first time a highlander has taken a nose dive to the floor in Glasgow......... 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Rowsley17D Posted October 16, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 16, 2019 Hi Gordon, I too have a Stanier (riveted) tender going spare to save postage from France if that is where Ian would send it from. Did 5s run with riveted tenders? It's from an early rebuilt Scott so in late war LMS livery. Also available to any of your other followers who need a tender if they PM me especially if they've any MR signal parts going spare!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steamport Southport Posted October 16, 2019 Share Posted October 16, 2019 Yes. They did have welded and rivetted tenders and did swap. Unlike some of the other classes they only ever had 4000 gallon 9 ton tenders though. Here's what they were built with. http://www.cometmodels.co.uk/data/PDF/Class 5 tenders.PDF Jason Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gordon s Posted October 16, 2019 Author Share Posted October 16, 2019 Thanks for your kind offer also, Jonathan, but I think I'm OK for now. The loco is all back in one piece and seems to look the part. Once I start running it seriously, then it will be weathered from top to toe and any minor blemishes will soon disappear. I still can't get over the fact that I had fitted a decoder as generally I add a Post-it note to say it has been changed to DCC. The other check on ET is that none of my DCC locos are set to work on DC as well as digital, so once I put one on the DC track, it won't show any signs of movement. This one was the exception...... Completely explains what happened the other night as I was sure I had reversed the polarity and yet it still kept going. I can still see it now in slow motion with inch after inch of the loco going over the end until it reached the tipping point. Dropping a loco from 3' or so makes a lot of noise and is not to be recommended. Hopefully I will finish the ballasting on this board tonight and correct the wiring omissions over the weekend. That will complete all the complex stuff with the station and both approaches. Looking forward to joining it back together and get stuff running once again. I just sat and watched for hours once it ran before. I was as though I'd eventually got to the start line after all these years. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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