Locomotion & Rails of Sheffield announce SE&CR D Class

[spamcan61]

8 minutes ago, PaulRhB said:

Hmmm I would suggest reading this about products under 6 months as the onus is on them. 

Given the poster admits it's their handling of the loco that's caused the damage I don't see how the retailer would be held responsible. Whether it's reasonable for the damage to occur like that is another matter.

[cctransuk]

Just now, spamcan61 said:

Given the poster admits it's their handling of the loco that's caused the damage I don't see how the retailer would be held responsible. Whether it's reasonable for the damage to occur like that is another matter.

 

It all depends upon the interpretation of 'fit for purpose'.

 

Surely, any model intended for operation should be able to withstand moderate handling?

 

CJI.

[PaulRhB]

14 minutes ago, spamcan61 said:

Given the poster admits it's their handling of the loco that's caused the damage I don't see how the retailer would be held responsible. Whether it's reasonable for the damage to occur like that is another matter.

I would say the finish should be resistant to normal handling. If the finish comes off after just a couple of months I would classify it as a fault. I’m not suggesting a witch hunt, I suggested a reasonable question to the retailer to give them chance to assess what might be standard policy to protect a sale and is not technically wrong as an offer. 

This is why I’d suggest talking to trading standards with details if all else fails as they did the model in association with the NRM so it would seem like a reasonable option for an alternative even though they are operating separately on sales. 
 

I have to say with the terrier and B4 I found Rails quite reasonable to converse with on these issues when I had two faulty ones. 

Edited August 27, 2021 by PaulRhB

[spamcan61]

24 minutes ago, cctransuk said:

 

It all depends upon the interpretation of 'fit for purpose'.

 

Surely, any model intended for operation should be able to withstand moderate handling?

 

CJI.

Agreed, but moderate is somewhat subjective; all I'm saying is that it's not a "done deal" that the model is actually faulty.

[spamcan61]

24 minutes ago, cctransuk said:

 

It all depends upon the interpretation of 'fit for purpose'.

 

Surely, any model intended for operation should be able to withstand moderate handling?

 

CJI.

Agreed, but moderate is somewhat subjective; all I'm saying is that it's not a "done deal" that the model is actually faulty.

[rembrow]

On 26/08/2021 at 05:26, Als Yard said:

Yikes, be carful when handling your loco, all of this is from simply running the engine every now and then, its not like I'm throwing the model around or anything, kinda sad to see something like this on a 200 pound model, my Hornby H class has the same lining but doesn't have the same issue. It almost feels like I'm handling a modeling with waterslide transfers on it with no primer applied.

 

I had the same happen to me with the BR early crest version, with white and red lining completely removed, in sections, on one side of the running plate. I managed to replace and blend in with clear lacquer. I suspect the lining wasn't sealed.

Edit.  Just to add, it's almost impossible not to handle the running plate sides, when changing the driving wheels and trying to get the chassis back in place  with the extremely fiddly  design that Dapol have generated, where you need to insert the pcb assembly into the boiler and then try and get the chassis to engage with the pcb.

Edited August 28, 2021 by rembrow
Addition

[stephennicholson]

2 hours ago, rembrow said:

I had the same happen to me with the BR early crest version, with white and red lining completely removed, in sections, on one side of the running plate. I managed to replace and blend in with clear lacquer. I suspect the lining wasn't sealed.

Edit.  Just to add, it's almost impossible not to handle the running plate sides, when changing the driving wheels and trying to get the chassis back in place  with the extremely fiddly  design that Dapol have generated, where you need to insert the pcb assembly into the boiler and then try and get the chassis to engage with the pcb.

I wonder if there is a preventative measure that we could be taking to prevent this happening ie in the areas that are unavoidable to touch

[adb968008]

before handling, did you have anything on your hands from previous activity ? Thinners, Nail varnish remover, meths, T-Cut etc.. these can unfix a surface ?

 

I don't think I've seen a rtr model, where the paint finish has not been fixed to the surface, to the point just casual handling removes the paint finish.

 

to me thats not right.

 

Custom / Home made stuff yes, but rtr should be rtr, and if the surface isnt fixed to the model its not rtr.

 

I know a lot of models ex-China you can remove lining etc, but usually requires scratching (cocktail sticks etc), or film removing first (Iso prop etc), as a delibrate activity, which can be easy or hard depending on finish..

 

Ive also seen where repeated handling by greasy fingers can unfix a printed surface over time [Mainline models in particular were good for this].

 

but just picking it up, as a brand new model seems a bit too extreme, and suggests an issue with the paint type used or being incompatible with surface its attached to…

 

That said, if it were the case it should be a widespread issue, as presumably most would have been printed in a single batch.

 

 

Edited August 29, 2021 by adb968008

[PaulRhB]

My B4 Guernsey has got a slight nick on the lining from handling but I decided to live with it as it’s barely noticeable. I protected it with a light spray of satin varnish. Seeing this I’m likely to do the same to my D class. I did a very light coat first to seal it before a full coat as I didn’t want to risk floating it off with varnish. 

[Als Yard]

3 hours ago, adb968008 said:

before handling, did you have anything on your hands from previous activity ? Thinners, Nail varnish remover, meths, T-Cut etc.. these can unfix a surface ?

 

I don't think I've seen a rtr model, where the paint finish has not been fixed to the surface, to the point just casual handling removes the paint finish.

 

to me thats not right.

 

Custom / Home made stuff yes, but rtr should be rtr, and if the surface isnt fixed to the model its not rtr.

 

I know a lot of models ex-China you can remove lining etc, but usually requires scratching (cocktail sticks etc), or film removing first (Iso prop etc), as a delibrate activity, which can be easy or hard depending on finish..

 

Ive also seen where repeated handling by greasy fingers can unfix a printed surface over time [Mainline models in particular were good for this].

 

but just picking it up, as a brand new model seems a bit too extreme, and suggests an issue with the paint type used or being incompatible with surface its attached to…

 

That said, if it were the case it should be a widespread issue, as presumably most would have been printed in a single batch.

 

 

I have never used any chemicals around the model, and from what I can tell I'm not the only one with this issue. A bit of the tender came off around the first couple of days I had the model but since it was only a small amount that came off I didn't mind it, but this whole running board lining peeling off thing is new, iv had the model since its release and since it was so expensive I always was overly carful with the model, most of the time I didn't even lift the model by the running board but by the cab or boiler. My guess is that (considering we are talking about Dapol) they forgot to add any kind of sealing coat the the printing, making it way too easy to mess up.

[wainwright1]

I we talking about applying a coat of acrylic or enamel matt varnish to protect the lining ?

I know that enamel varnish can sometimes lift paint. It has happened on a couple of rtr PO wagons I weathered, where the wagons had several layers of paint overlaid.

 

All the best

Ray

[PaulRhB]

2 hours ago, wainwright1 said:

we talking about applying a coat of acrylic or enamel matt varnish to protect the lining ?

I used Tamiya acrylic on the B4 with a very quick pass on the first coat and let it thoroughly dry before a thicker coat and that didn’t lift the lining. Many commercial cans from Humbrol and Howes put quite a lot on in one go so I prefer the finer spray of the Tamiya cans with a very light pass. You do need to just ‘dust’ it on the first coat or it can soften water slide and may do the same with this if it’s that fragile. I will try to do mine this week and report back. 

Edited August 30, 2021 by PaulRhB

[Big James]

Fantastic service from rails. They phoned me up to ask me if I still wanted to keep my pre-order. I can’t wait for my BR lined D class. Shame I’m away the weekend so I won’t be able to test it to next week. 
 

Big James

[Jack P]

It appears that the D has 2mm axles, which run in square top hat bearings w a gear wheel that is just a press fit onto the axle.

There really isn't anything wrong with the Dapol wheels, but finding replacements on a 2mm axle is difficult.

 

I've just been on the phone to Ultrascale, and am looking into having David cut me a new gear wheel and bearing that would suit a 1/8th axle.  

This would allow replacement wheelsets in EM/P4 to be fitted - is there anyone else out there that would be interested in some of the bits to complete the 'conversion'?

If so, drop me a PM. Nothing is set in stone yet, but it would be good to know if i'm not the only one out there.

[Opelsi]

Just changed over the wheelset to the non-traction tyre variant on my NRM 737.

Not too bad a task, main fiddle was getting the screws back into the wheels on each side, to secure the connecting rods.

I found easiest way was to place the model on it's side and put the screw into the connecting rod. Then hold it in place with dedicated tool and use a fairly fine pair of tweezer to grip the connecting rod half way along it's length then offer up to the new wheels and tighten.

Hope this helps as I had held off waiting for a YouTube demo (which never arrived), so decided to have a go myself!

[jaym481]

I used a little Blu-Tack to hold the screw to the tool. 

[Budgie]

Talking of SECR 4-4-0s, who wants a G class?

 

https://www.cdc-design.net/gnosr-vf-classsecr-g-class-4-4-0.html

[Venator]

On 07/12/2021 at 22:50, Budgie said:

Talking of SECR 4-4-0s, who wants a G class?

 

https://www.cdc-design.net/gnosr-vf-classsecr-g-class-4-4-0.html

I looked at their website and perhaps I missed it but is there a way of pre ordering one?

[Legend]

23 minutes ago, Venator said:

I looked at their website and perhaps I missed it but is there a way of pre ordering one?

 

You have to do it through eBay shop I think 

[Budgie]

They haven't opened the order book yet.

 

[jaym481]

They are listed on eBay. SECR and GNoSR variants have already sold out apparently.

[Gordon Connell]

5 hours ago, jaym481 said:

They are listed on eBay. SECR and GNoSR variants have already sold out apparently.

 

If you look further down the page, you'll see that the GNoSR and SECR variants are still to be released. I guess the items listed in the pull down menus are place holders.

[Merchant Navy]

Rails has announced the SECR D1 today! A logical follow-up to the D. 

[prtrainman]

I purchased a BR sound-fitted version almost a year ago & have always been most disappointed by the way it would constantly stall in odd places on my layout, particularly at slower speeds. My track is Peco code 75 & I noticed that there was always a lot of 'sideways slop' in the wheels & when the loco stalled a 'wiggle' on the tender would get it going again. Finally got round to trying to fix it today. I pulled the tender away from the loco, turned it upside down, removed the tender brake gear & then managed to remove all 3 wheel sets. Measuring against a DCC concepts back-to-back gauge I pulled all the tender wheels out to 14.75mm replaced everything (including the handbrake column, one buffer & the front retainer for the coal, all of which fell off in the process).  Then hey presto! Just like a new loco & it hasn't stalled once since then. I suspect it would benefit further if I did something similar to the loco driving wheels, but I don't feel brave enough to tackle those yet. Maybe I'll try my Rails Dapol A1X first, which has always exhibited similar stalling tendencies. (Before anyone says I should have sent it back, I did, twice). Funnily enough my only other Dapol loco, a B4 tank, has always run perfectly from day 1. Obviously some serious inconsistencies in Dapol's back-to-back measurements!

 

Anyway, forgive my ramblings but hopefully useful to somebody.

[Kaput]

Mine was a little stuttery in places - stuck a stay alive in it and its been fine since.