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PenrithBeacon

Adventures In Radio Control

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19 hours ago, Regularity said:

Do you do that with your mobile phone as well?

No

Cheers

idd

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Hi PenrithBeacon

 

I was giving this some thought and attempted to draw my usual wiring diagram as simply as I could in case you find it useful - I don't yet understand most electronic/wiring symbols so have just done it with text boxes.

(disclaimer - this is just the one I have found that works for me, other people may have had more success with a different approach).

To simplify, you can remove the voltage step-up, especially on shunting locos as it's not really needed.

 

I hope this illustrates how when the loco is 'off' it can be charged, and switching it 'on' disconnects the charging port. Note also the voltage step-up goes before the receiver.

 

On the SPDT switch , the input from the battery goes to the centre wire, and the two outputs are on the outer two, so the centre remains constant and the outers get disengaged when not selected.

 

1583338115_RCDiagram1a.jpg.46b2087e383f32153d996546fc770313.jpg

 

 

Edited by Corbs
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Good Morning, Corbs,

Thank you for that it will be most useful. If I may, I shall add to it showing the different colour coded wires of the Micronradiocontrol components I have.

I have decided that adding RC to the chassis of the Bachmann Jinty isn't practical. It would require drilling holes for the wiring in the mazac casting and plastic keeper plate and this would weaken the keeper plate too much. I have Plan B though. I have looked through my stash of unfinished bits and bobs and came to an unfinished High Level chassis for the Jinty which looks a good prospect. After the Tesco visit later I'll start work, but family commitments and the Peterborough show will cause a break then until next week.

Cheers

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By all means do, if you want the photoshop file I can send it to you.

 

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If space is tight perhaps a battery/rx wagon might work? As always there are pros and cons to any approach, just a thought...

Cheers

Idd

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10 minutes ago, idd15 said:

If space is tight perhaps a battery/rx wagon might work? As always there are pros and cons to any approach, just a thought...

Cheers

Idd

I know that quite a few people have tried this with good results, but it's not something I would personally ever do, because I feel that RC needs to be competitive and at least offer more than DC, and having a battery wagon adds a large negative score against it, if you get my meaning? As in, RC needs to be able to do everything DC does, but better. It is more challenging to fit the gubbins into smaller locos, but those are the ones that need RC the most in my experience, and adding a wagon makes them 'no longer a small loco'.

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1 hour ago, Corbs said:

By all means do, if you want the photoshop file I can send it to you.

 

Thanks, that would be much appreciated.

Cheers

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3 hours ago, idd15 said:

If space is tight perhaps a battery/rx wagon might work? As always there are pros and cons to any approach, just a thought...

My current fixation is with freelance 009 models built on Kato chassis and I am using a separate wagon to carry the battery and the step-up module. The battery wagon can be a tender on a steam loco. For a small tank loco or small diesel the wagon is an extra. But the whole of a model railway is make-believe so the extra wagon doesn't really matter. And the more realistic performance (and track simplicity) with BPRC is what attracts me to it.

 

I'm making my loco bodies with card using my Silhouette Portrait cutter.

 

...R

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That wiring is exactly how I do it, but I put the switch in the positive side rather than the negative side. Not sure if that's better or worse or makes no difference (?)

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I heard doing it with the positive wire in the switch is illegal.

 

 

(kidding, I don't think it makes any difference, no power will flow without a full circuit no matter where it is broken, right?)

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19 minutes ago, Corbs said:

 

(kidding, I don't think it makes any difference, no power will flow without a full circuit no matter where it is broken, right?)

 

Correct, but it is convention (indeed regulation) to always switch the source. This is always painfully learnt when some dork has switched the return on a mains circuit..... No I was not the dork in question and yes it did hurt, and yes I apologise now if I quoted the wiring regs incorrectly. 

 

Cheers

idd

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5 hours ago, Robin2 said:

My current fixation is with freelance 009 models built on Kato chassis and I am using a separate wagon to carry the battery and the step-up module. The battery wagon can be a tender on a steam loco. For a small tank loco or small diesel the wagon is an extra. But the whole of a model railway is make-believe so the extra wagon doesn't really matter. And the more realistic performance (and track simplicity) with BPRC is what attracts me to it.

 

I'm making my loco bodies with card using my Silhouette Portrait cutter.

 

...R

 

This sounds a very pleasant adventure in RC.

 

Cheers

idd

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7 minutes ago, idd15 said:

 

Correct, but it is convention (indeed regulation) to always switch the source. This is always painfully learnt when some dork has switched the return on a mains circuit..... No I was not the dork in question and yes it did hurt, and yes I apologise now if I quoted the wiring regs incorrectly. 

 

Cheers

idd

Ahh there we go then. I admit the only reason I did it was because the black wire was closer ;)

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On 05/12/2019 at 00:18, Corbs said:

 

I was giving this some thought and attempted to draw my usual wiring diagram

Just wondering what are you using for the voltage step-up?

 

...R

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A variety of makes, some Polulu, some from Micron but can't remember the name. Not really had much joy in finding the right balance yet in the small shunting locos so usually leave it out.

The ones I've had so far have positive in, positive out, and single negative wire.

Edited by Corbs

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Speaking as someone with a great degree of ignorance on this topic - though wanting to introduce it my layouts - would there be much commonality between components required for an EM layout and  an O layout? I’m leaving this question fairly open so as not to prove my ignorance. Better to be thought thick, and not open my mouth to prove it, and all that. Cheers, Dai

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Yes, pretty much everything will work. If you want to use higher voltages, you will probably want to use an Rx6x receiver rather than an Rx4x.

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4 hours ago, 88D said:

Speaking as someone with a great degree of ignorance on this topic - though wanting to introduce it my layouts - would there be much commonality between components required for an EM layout and  an O layout? I’m leaving this question fairly open so as not to prove my ignorance. Better to be thought thick, and not open my mouth to prove it, and all that. Cheers, Dai

The basis difference with o scale is the locomotives might need more power and or a higher voltage. The radio receiver (Rx) has to have a large enough output in amps. A typical oo scale Rx would be 1.3amp at up to 13V. Other receivers can go up to 6 amp at 18V. The advantage of O scale is you should have plenty of room for the electronics and batteries.

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7 hours ago, Corbs said:

A variety of makes, some Polulu, some from Micron but can't remember the name.

I'm curious to know what size they are.

 

The ones I got recently are based on MT3608 chips and as delivered they measure 37x17x6mm. The ends can be sawed off to reduce the length to 30mm but the thickness is mainly determined by the inductor so can't be reduced.

 

They are cheap and seem to work very well with a multi-turn pot to set the voltage, but something considerably smaller would be nice.

 

...R

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I havnt got any photos but I put the whole caboodle in a Finecast J69 and it worked fine .The same rig also went into a an Athearn CF7  US  diesel.when I picked it back up several years later nothing worked which was baffling .

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1 hour ago, friscopete said:

I havnt got any photos but I put the whole caboodle in a Finecast J69 and it worked fine .The same rig also went into a an Athearn CF7  US  diesel.

This seems to have come out of the blue. What "whole caboodle" are you referring to?

 

...R

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2 hours ago, Robin2 said:

I'm curious to know what size they are.

 

The ones I got recently are based on MT3608 chips and as delivered they measure 37x17x6mm. The ends can be sawed off to reduce the length to 30mm but the thickness is mainly determined by the inductor so can't be reduced.

 

They are cheap and seem to work very well with a multi-turn pot to set the voltage, but something considerably smaller would be nice.

 

...R

 

Grabbed this 12v one out of my little Bagnall 0-4-0ST to take a pic.

Weirdly the 12v ones seem to come in smaller sizes than the 8v or 6v ones.

I’ve wired this with two UM plugs so it’s easily removed. Note you can NOT charge the battery with this in the circuit!

The charging circuit needs to be kept separate.

B943DEDA-7152-4E33-9D0E-88A06C1DECE1.jpeg.0215b58cfe7e2bd8766ba8e3999c240b.jpeg

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Thanks for that.

 

The ones I have are similar to these (on Amazon) although the inductors on mine have 330 printed on them.

 

I suspect the device you have is similar but with fixed resistors.

 

My Kato chassis which was quite sluggish on 3.7v works very well at 4.5v

 

...R

Edited by Robin2

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1 hour ago, Robin2 said:

This seems to have come out of the blue. What "whole caboodle" are you referring to?

 

...R

The usual culprits .Battery ,receiver and switch and charge socket  ,which seem to be a  whole caboodle to me .

Edited by friscopete

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52 minutes ago, Robin2 said:

Thanks for that.

 

The ones I have are similar to these (on Amazon) although the inductors on mine have 330 printed on them.

 

I suspect the device you have is similar but with fixed resistors.

 

My Kato chassis which was quite sluggish on 3.7v works very well at 4.5v

 

...R

Ahaaa interesting. Polulu do an adjustable one but the sizes are in cubits for some reason:

https://www.pololu.com/category/132/step-up-voltage-regulators

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