SteveyDee68 Posted December 16, 2019 Author Share Posted December 16, 2019 Have purchased a second hand Peco turntable kit from my local model shop, with an electric motor attached for a price that cannot be argued with! There is a caveat, of course, in that the railings on the turntable deck need replacing as they are damaged, plus there isn't any rail chairs/clips for track approaching/leaving the table (as seen in the illustrations). Does anyone know if these are sold as spares? Tried Peter's Spares, a search of the Bay of Fleas and the Big Brazilian River, but to no avail. Anyone have any advice? (This will be on a second board to be attached to the first, featuring a shed, coal and ash facilities etc. An extension of my micro layout, and an eventual link to my planned "big" layout!) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveyDee68 Posted January 16, 2020 Author Share Posted January 16, 2020 Happy New Year!! This project has not completely stalled, although I am now concentrating on the other bit of the baseboard that I chopped off!! I picked up a three way point at a recent toy/hobby fair for next to nothing, because it had the remains of (broken) fishplates soldered to the ends of the rails. Chance to try my new Parkside digital soldering iron (from Lidl) to see if I could remove the fishplates... Tried 200 degrees then 300 degrees with no joy, other than getting the solder to flow and more firmly solder the broken fishplate onto the rails! But then, at 400 degrees, I was able to push the end of the fishplate with the tip of the iron and finally they popped off! Result! Using the iron to melt and then remove the remaining solder, I cleaned up the rail ends with a file and now had a useable three way point! So now I have replaced the LH point at the left hand end of the loop on the layout, which allows me to run a long siding along the front of the yard, which I plan to inset into cobbles. Why introduce yet more track into an already busy scenario? Gives me somewhere to park my Xmas present to myself, my Bachmann breakdown crane! Shout out to Jim at The Locoshed - apparently his first sale of one of these (and he is matching the big boys on price, too, so well worth a visit if in the area - plus a brew and a biscuit are always on offer!!) Steve S Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveyDee68 Posted March 3, 2020 Author Share Posted March 3, 2020 Update: No further progress with actual modelling, but have decided to have a retaining wall at the rear of the board with industrial building gable ends behind that. Having recently discovered a list my father wrote out of all the places he had worked through his working life, together with the companies he worked for, I have suitable names for those premises: McCarty & Heaton Dynamic Plastics (Ltd) Turner & Brown Duxbury Ltd Bibby & Barron Hours of fun! 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smoking gun Posted March 10, 2020 Share Posted March 10, 2020 That's a lovely idea, you can remember your father whilst operating the layout. I may pinch it for the same reason. Best wishes, Martin 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveyDee68 Posted October 1, 2020 Author Share Posted October 1, 2020 (edited) My Dad finally passed away last Saturday, after several years of succumbing to Dementia and Alzheimer's. He has spent the last two and a half years in a care home, and of course we have not been able to visit these past six months due to the pandemic. Following a series of three mini strokes just under a fortnight ago, the home allowed us to visit as they felt he was getting ready to pass, and so some comfort has been afforded in that we were all able to see him - albeit separately - before the end. To paraphrase Terry Gillian on the passing of Terry Jones, "He left us a long time ago, and his body has finally caught up". As mentioned earlier, I named this micro after my Dad's initials (which also happened to be a train franchise operator's!) as a tribute, as he was a lifelong modeller. As reported in my Woodhey Quay thread, I've taken the decision to use that baseboard and track for this layout, and so future updates will feature a shorter length baseboard. I intend to retain the idea of low relief industrial buildings at the rear, but perhaps raised on retaining walls to add height. I want to incorporate test running and wheel cleaning facilities into this micro layout, as well as a "programming track" for if (when?) I eventually go digital, but also include the opportunity for a little wagon shuffling for occasional amusement. When finished it will hopefully be good enough for locos and stock to be photographed against as a backdrop! Updates to follow. HOURS OF FUN! Edited October 1, 2020 by SteveyDee68 Typo! 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveyDee68 Posted December 31, 2020 Author Share Posted December 31, 2020 (edited) Well, DRS Engineering has actually progressed a little, in as much as I came up with a track plan and then sought advice regarding wiring the trackplan for both DC and DCC! However, in the process of sorting out this new trackplan for the shorter baseboard now used for this layout, I completely forgot that I was planning for a "wagon/loco works" and started planning a dockside layout again instead! So, having got myself a track layout, I now find that I've created a kickback siding running along a quayside (at the bottom of the plan), with warehouses and a grain elevator on the siding at the rear! But this isn't supposed to be a quayside! Before I throw it all out of the window, I have decided to flip it around so that the front (bottom) track becomes an upper track. The kickback will actually go into the works; I am deciding if the headshunt into it will have a loco hoist over it. The front siding will be where I can put a rolling road or my wheel cleaner, for servicing locos (for real). What I need to check is that I can run my largest loco into the works via the headshunt! Wiring diagram, and "flipped" trackplan with revised (correct) scenics! A further plus, this might work quite nicely as a scenic fiddle yard to the quayside layout (which exits left!) HOURS OF FUN IN 2021! Edited December 31, 2020 by SteveyDee68 Added images 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveyDee68 Posted January 6, 2021 Author Share Posted January 6, 2021 (edited) After measuring out the relevant buildings (two x Hornby magazine Railway Works facades, 4 bay low relief plus a 3 bay covered section; industrial water tower; 2 x double gable fronts for engine shed (low relief); small overbridge; retaining walls; medium station building (waiting room section) for offices, I popped a few larger locos on to check headshunt and siding lengths... Now I remember why this shorter board was turning into a dockside rather than an engineering works! The sidings etc accept my Battle of Britain and Rebuilt Merchant Navy, but they look simply ridiculous traversing small radius points! So, DRS Engineering will reappear at some time in 2021, possibly to include the second hand turntable I picked up, so a cross between a running shed and a works complex. Medium radius turnouts throughout, of course! TOPIC RESTING UNTIL FURTHER NOTICE! Blimey! Talk about posting in haste and regretting at leisure! I posted the above about five minutes ago, then happened to glance back at the trackplan I had drawn... What am I doing?! DRS Engineering is supposed to be a small engineering company, perhaps a small wagon repairs outfit! Using the Loco Works on this board has led me astray towards wishing to service large locos! No! That can be an MPD on my eventual main layout! Step back, look at my Scalescenes boxfiles downloads and have a rethink! HOURS OF FRUSTRATION FUN IN 2021! Edited January 6, 2021 by SteveyDee68 Return to senses!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveyDee68 Posted February 25, 2021 Author Share Posted February 25, 2021 (edited) As mentioned elsewhere, DRS Engineering will be part of a loco servicing facility including a turntable, which will be part of my magnum opus Broadchurch (Marine). For the time being, this topic thread is resting until further notice. Steve S Edited February 25, 2021 by SteveyDee68 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveyDee68 Posted April 11, 2021 Author Share Posted April 11, 2021 (edited) DRS ENGINEERING WORKS - REBOOT APRIL 2021 I have to thank @ManofKent for posting up in his thread Toying with an industrial layout shelf a design for a minimum space 3-2-2 Inglenook in just 2'9" x 8.5" (480mmx220mm). I proposed a few changes and suggested that a full 5-3-3 Inglenook might be possible, and then discovered I had 5mm foamboard exactly the right length! A pleasant evening has followed as I have shuffled track about and have proved conclusively that there is no way you can fit a full 5-3-3 Inglenook into that space! Having come up with a simplified track plan that does work, I suggested that these might be exchange sidings for an off-stage industry. However, whilst pencilling in some scenic ideas on the foam board in pencil, an alert on my computer told me that John Wiffen has just released his Loco Works (previously a Hornby magazine freebie). If I widen the board just a smidgen from front to back, I should have room to model the end rear wall of a double engine shed, with tracks emerging into the layout space, just long enough to pose perhaps a Merchant Navy? There's no need for large engines to shuffle through tight pointwork, as their access is actually offstage! The layout is perhaps the rear yard, the stores where materials arrive, are unloaded and then the wagons despatched out again... I can also use my Hornby freebies secure in the knowledge that I can download the new kit for Broadchurch's MPD later! Suddenly, I feel DRS Engineering may spring to life again as a diorama/photo plank and 3-2-2 Inglenook shunting puzzle! Like I've not enough projects on the go! LOL!! HOURS OF FUN! Edited January 1, 2023 by SteveyDee68 Typos and discovered how to name check! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveyDee68 Posted April 12, 2021 Author Share Posted April 12, 2021 (edited) Having got a working plan in an area only 8.5 inches deep front to back, I transferred the track onto the remaining piece of foam board from which I had cut the previous piece to @ManofKent's layout dimensions. I then set about mocking up a scenic treatment using the Scalescenes Loco Works freebie as the main background element. Some serious Scalescenes structure building to be doing here! Back left, a three storey works stores building, low relief at the back but wrapping around the corner with both sidings leading into (closed) doorways into the building (original warehouse kit). Then along the back the ultra low relief Loco Works building, with the rear end of a double engine shed (but used here as a works building) at back right. From that extend two lines: the rear line (with the coach) simply runs out and will be able to be used as a running in road using my rollers when needed; the front line (with the Peckett) will run under a lifting hoist (Ratio). The headshunt for the 3-2-2 shunting puzzle runs just in front of the loco shed, and the end of a siding from further inside the works complex runs out parallel before terminating in a buffer stop. In front of this, front right corner, is a Scalescenes industrial workshop building. At the opposite side, an industrial water tower sits front left, with a wall joining it to the stores building. The longest siding (used for assembling the train) is also served by a Ratio overhead crane for unloading into the yard. Anyway, time to sleep... Hours of fun! Edited April 12, 2021 by SteveyDee68 Rebooted iPad to improve performance! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ManofKent Posted April 12, 2021 Share Posted April 12, 2021 Plenty of space Inset track? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveyDee68 Posted April 12, 2021 Author Share Posted April 12, 2021 (edited) On 12/04/2021 at 04:48, ManofKent said: Plenty of space Inset track? I'm looking at it fresh this morning and thinking not so much "plenty" of space as "too much" space, particularly in the foreground. So I am thinking of losing the workshop building front right corner and the siding behind it, putting the water tank there as a view blocker, and trimming about 10cm from the front edge (with the front left siding gently curved inwards). As to inset track, I've shown in red on the following badly edited photo where I see track surrounded by concrete/paving - basically avoiding the points (all two of them!) The rear track issuing from the loco shed/works building needs rolling road cradles to fit onto the track, so may end up ballasted. There will either be a wooden crossing point or inset track at the heel of the first point, but the rest of the headshunt will be ballasted. Thinking the hoist may go on the rear track after all, and perhaps sink a Scalescenes inspection pit on the front siding out of the shed building. Push rod point control. Foamboard baseboard. Keep it light! (And an experiment in building suchlike for Woodhey Quay in due course!) HOURS OF FUN! Edited April 16, 2021 by SteveyDee68 Mysteriously missing words added back in! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveyDee68 Posted April 16, 2021 Author Share Posted April 16, 2021 (edited) I've decided to limit the width to 300mm front to back - trimming my board down has left a strip wide enough to cut into two lengths each 35mm deep, so that has set the depth of the framing below the baseboard! Front edge glued in position using GORILLA wood glue, masking tape and LEGO as aids to getting square corners, together with two end pieces. Currently drying in time honoured fashion under a selection of tinned goods! Next task is to cut a 35mm strip off the piece I originally cut as the baseboard (see @ManofKent's thread) to form the rear underboard strengthener, the remaining board becoming the backscene* and setting the height for the two side panels. Using the 3-4-5 rule to make some right angle fillets to help strengthen the corners. Cross pieces will be fashioned to run diagonally across the underneath of the board, to help reduce flex. This is exciting stuff and moving rapidly forward using only a straight edge, knife and wood glue as materials! So far, so good (ignore the mess in the kitchen!!!) Board with front and two side pieces glued... Edited May 1, 2021 by SteveyDee68 Photo caption 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ManofKent Posted April 16, 2021 Share Posted April 16, 2021 Are you sure this is an engineering works and not a canning factory? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveyDee68 Posted April 17, 2021 Author Share Posted April 17, 2021 (edited) Notwithstanding quite a long break for a couple of errands and something to eat, I feel like I've made lots of progress in a relatively short time! Since last posting, I have cleaned all the track with isopropanol, followed by a rub over the top of the rails with a piece of wood, followed by some testing and a little Track Magic on the points, and my newly arrived MSC sentinel shunter runs nicely through the trackwork, especially after also giving its wheels a clean too. Having said that, it does dip and stall on one of the points - I've checked the frog is flat, but looking at the side to side wobble of the diesel when running through the points, I think I will check the BTB on its wheels in case it is the loco and not the track. (Will also test with a couple more locos.) As these are dead frog points (I know, I know!) I may try doing the links between stock rails and point blades ... something to be done well away from the foamboard!! Meanwhile, I have fixed a backscene board and end boards, and put some diagonal strengthening struts to try to reduce flex across the board. I intend to use mounting board to create a final outside covering/facia once the scenics have been completed. Altogether a good day! Strengthening fillets using the 3-4-5 rule to ensure right angles... Corner fillets in place (double layer). Also showing my adhesive of choice and a LEGO "corner" to assist with right angles and verticals... Current state of play - backscene boards fitted to three sides, all 280mm tall, and bracing underneath the baseboard to add strength etc. The section in the middle at the front avoids diagonals as the rods for the two points will run in these spaces... At this point, I would encourage anyone thinking of putting together a small diorama or shunting layout to consider foamboard instead of ply or MDF - it really is easy to cut accurately and the resulting board so far feels quite strong* and is incredibly light! That will change when the trackwork and buildings are installed, but so far it really has been HOURS OF FUN! * Weakest points are the front edges of the side backscene boards - obviously care is needed whilst working on the layout but do I intend to add a front "proscenium" which should provide extra strength by supporting those corners. But that's for another day... Edited April 17, 2021 by SteveyDee68 Captions to photos 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveyDee68 Posted April 26, 2021 Author Share Posted April 26, 2021 (edited) Neglected to mention ... Having read dire warnings about 5mm foam board going banana shaped due to surfaces contracting when wet (with glue for example), I made sure to puncture the surface of areas to be glued using a scriber, as in lots and lots and lots of holes!! Hopefully the glue will pass through and bond with the foam substrate and thereby the board itself not succumb to bananarama! HOURS OF FUN* * Currently this means dentistry, but let's gloss over that!! Edited April 26, 2021 by SteveyDee68 Typos spotted after the fact, of course! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveyDee68 Posted May 1, 2021 Author Share Posted May 1, 2021 Further reading about foamboard baseboards on RMWeb warns again and again about problems with bending when surfaces get wet from glue/paint. Wondering about using mounting board as the top surface to the baseboard, but as that is card am left wondering surely that will bend when wet? Good news is that the boards so far appear to be absolutely flat, with just some flex in the backscene panels as they are not braced/supported. I intend to use multiple layers of lining paper laminated to form curves into the rear corners, but again the question of how wet glues are is holding me back - perhaps I should simply "go for it" and see what results, but am loath to spoil the good results achieved so far. What was it I was saying about feeling confident a couple of days ago?! HOURS OF PROCRASTINATION FUN! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ighten Posted May 1, 2021 Share Posted May 1, 2021 Even though my boards are MDF flat and pinewood bracing - I built up to the track lvl using foam/poly a mix of 4mm and 7mm --- all I would say is be careful when laying track and applying glue that its not over wet.. remember this type of of layout needs crawling locos so the track needs to be bob on When I added my cork layer on top of the poly I must have gone too wet as the cork soaked too much (roller coaster appeared) --- Fortunately no track had been laid so I could re start - dont know if your considering it but I would forget about a cork layer and use something more solid like a 2mm ply 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveyDee68 Posted May 1, 2021 Author Share Posted May 1, 2021 One thought I am having to glue the lining paper backscene onto the backscene boards is to use spray adhesive as used for mounting art work - the permanent type, not the "easily adjustable" type. Anybody had experience or recommendations/tips? I have previously used carpet glue spray to fix foamboard onto a baseboard but ended up taking it all up after small sections did not stay stuck down and lifted up - although I had not learnt the trick at that point of puncturing the foamboard to increase the gripping area of any glue used (although as a spray adhesive is relatively "dry" I am unsure whether that technique would make any difference?) All food for thought when it's a little late in the evening for action! Steve S Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ManofKent Posted May 2, 2021 Share Posted May 2, 2021 Spray adhesive sounds a good option, for the backscene but I've not tried it - I can't see why it wouldn't work well. I've been using gorilla glue to build up three layers of foam to my foamex base which bonds well, but still have a cork layer to add. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveyDee68 Posted May 2, 2021 Author Share Posted May 2, 2021 8 hours ago, ManofKent said: I've been using gorilla glue to build up three layers of foam to my foamex base which bonds well, Yes, I've used the simian glue too and have found that - touch substitute wood - it has glued well and does not appear to be too "wet" and cause bananafication of the foamboard it is bonding* together. Steve S * I would have said "gluing" or "glueing" but neither spelling looks right! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveyDee68 Posted May 11, 2021 Author Share Posted May 11, 2021 Hmmm... I fear we may have “bananafication” across the baseboard length, despite the bracing beneath. I think it may be the back scene boards causing the slight curve to the board surface. How to fix...? HOURS OF WAILING, GNASHING OF TEETH, TEARING OF HAIR, USAGE OF OLD SAXON VOCABULARY Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ManofKent Posted May 11, 2021 Share Posted May 11, 2021 I think you might need to consider adding something more rigid to the bracing, glue and weight down. Good luck. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveyDee68 Posted June 5, 2021 Author Share Posted June 5, 2021 (edited) Plan A is to commence for straightening the baseboard... I have acquired myself a length of 45mm wide woodstrip from the big orange shed of DIY stuff. It is only 5mm thick so very light! I checked many pieces to ensure I had one that was straight along its length! Measured around the baseboard, and pieces cut over-length. The first will be glued along the front edge with No More Nails, pinned and clamped (many, many clamps!) so that the baseboard top is in line with the top edge. This will then be left to dry thoroughly. I shall then butt both end pieces against the front piece ensuring absolutely straight and 90 degrees, before applying glue, pins and clamps. When dry, the front piece shall be trimmed to length, and corner braces glued/screwed into place. Then, the sides shall be trimmed level with the rear edge of the baseboard, and the rear piece affixed with glue, pins and clamps, again careful to ensure the top is in line with the edge of the wood ... although trickier because of the backscene, I have a cunning plan (thank you, Baldrick) to ensure that happens, involving pins pushed through the backscene from on scene!!! The joy of foam board! Once dry, that will be trimmed and strengthened with corner braces. I have enough wood to then create a matching proscenium frontage at a later date! Wish me luck - if I remember, I shall photo progress (or disasters, whichever results!) HOURS OF FUN! Edited June 5, 2021 by SteveyDee68 Typos, missing bits, punctuation! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveyDee68 Posted June 17, 2021 Author Share Posted June 17, 2021 (edited) Well, it is done. The patient has been splinted and pins inserted to help hold the parts together. Heavy weight in the form of a stack of mdf boards has rested upon the board whilst all glues have cured. I now have a flat baseboard again! With a 2mm high front lip where the strip wood was fractionally wider than the combined height of the supporting beams plus the top surface. Sigh Have cut a piece of 2mm mounting board to shaoe ready to form a new top surface. Is this wise, or am I simply adding another layer of material to go wrong? Forgive the photos ... I need to get it into a space I can properly photograph it in! With track laid back in place (the rear siding is having 1mm removed so the trackwork isn't 'pinched' by the end boards) Adding 2mm mountboard as an additional surface brings it up to the top edge of the new wooden front strip. If I do that, should I shellac the card before laying the track? HOURS OF FUN! PS Just noticed the front piece looks curved in the photo. It isn't, it's the lens of my iPad doing that! Edited June 17, 2021 by SteveyDee68 Photo captions 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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