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Worm Drive (Triang) Chassis "Sticky" in Reverse


PatB
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WD40 is not a lubricant or cleaning agent (whatever it may say on the tin!)  It stands for Water Dispersant formula 40.

 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/WD-40

 

I find the modern nylon gears give better control (they have a higher ratio 26:1 rather than 20:1 IIRC). I would prefer the same thing in brass, but you can't have everything.

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A quick update. 

 

Examination of all the motors I have revealed a couple with limited end float. Sticking one of these in an early 70s Pannier chassis resulted in yesterday seeing only 2 failures to proceed over an 8 hour day. Much better than the every 20 minutes or so that I've been seeing. 

 

Of the other motors, I note that some have the little top hat thrust collars described by Redgate Models, and some don't. 

 

I also note that those with greater end float are allowing the commutator to move forward far enough that the brushes, whilst not making contact with the winding attachment flange (for want of a better term), are riding up onto the unworn step on the commutator segments. This must be reducing their contact area significantly, which can't be helping. 

 

I've been experimenting with punching insulating thrust washers out of old milk bottle material (HDPE according to the recycling code) which is 0.5mm thick. I'd like to find something thinner to give finer adjustment as, on the one motor I've tried on so far, the full 0.5mm has pushed the armature back so far that the brushes now overhang the front end of the comm, which I'm equally uncomfortable about. 

 

I have, however, managed to get the worm off and on without damage, and arrange keepers to avoid loss of magnet strength, so progress is being made. Once all the motors are suitably shiimmed, I'll look at the centre axle sideplay on my various chassis. 

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Nobody ever mentions this. I used to be a service agent for Hornby when they had a network through the retailers (1970-80 period). I've seen a number of X04 motors with a thrust bearing (ball bearing) located within the magnet. I might have one still in my collection somewhere.

 

Stewart

Edited by stewartingram
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There seem to be several variations:- thrust washers either side of the front bearing, only between the worm and the bearing and a ball bearing on the magnet end may or may not be present. End float is variable.... Failure to start in one direction can be caused by the bushes not being centred on the commutator or the commutator slots not being central between the poles.  Swopping brushes between motors might help. All are subject to manufacturing tolerances....

 

I've just acquired two more X.04s - both work of course. That is apart from the one fitted to an early R.55 bogie - Ham-handedly I broke the brush diaphragm. These are very fragile being paxolin. I have replaced them using the centre rail insulators from scrap Dublo track (plenty of that about!) or there are some nice glass-fibre ones available on the internet to do the job properly (also tiny screws to fix the blighters in place). Now where did I put that spare one I ordered?  I was wondering what happened to the bogie. Its spur gears have stripped their teeth. Being a robust component similar to the axle gears, how could that happen? Do I look for replacements or just pinch the motor which was my original intention.

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have a Britannia with an X04 on my workbench at present which has a burned out motor. I changed it for a good X04 and it is reluctant to re start when stopped. The worm seemed to be rubbing on the chassis unless the motor screw was tightened while holding the worm away from the sides of the chassis.  A bit odd as the loco has run reliably for the past 35 years.  I hope to test it tomorrow.  

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