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As I cannot get on with Evening Star (or others) at the moment I took the time to re-wheel the LNER Coronation coaches. These are done with an internal frame so the wheels just drop in. Some valances will be required soon now as they are runners.  The loco body is an untouched Atlas one that should really get a paint job and mounted on a Tri-ang Britannia chassis. The coaches are all Tri-ang with printed card overlays, a suburban coach used for the shorter buffet. I am not doing them articulated though, maybe one day when I run out of jobs.

 

Garry

LNER Coronation set.JPG

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Love me tender...


The King's tender has now been fitted with metal spoked wheels by the axle holes being drilled out to 2mm to take unflanged bearings, and a 1mm vertical slot drilled on the inside so that the pinpoint ends of the wheelsets click into the axle holes with a little bit of pressure.

 

1788319592_031IMG_4233.JPG.6118995dcac722325ee054661b487f8a.JPG


The centre wheelset was left with a bit of left-right slop when pushing in the bearings which will hopefully help it navigate curves.

217358602_032IMG_4241.JPG.2bf5c39216214a21f20d7b87c200bc4f.JPG

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A Lincoln-locos AL1 having it's first test run.  It is powered by two Halling motor bogies although at the moment the whitemetal sideframes are not the correct ones.  The pantographs are also 3D printed but one day I may find a decent working one although there will not be any OLE on the layout.

 

Garry

1660716455_AL1ontest.JPG.068158048acc6645f956a3a4e03aded8.jpeg

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On 14/05/2021 at 18:41, TT-Pete said:

Love me tender...


The King's tender has now been fitted with metal spoked wheels by the axle holes being drilled out to 2mm to take unflanged bearings, and a 1mm vertical slot drilled on the inside so that the pinpoint ends of the wheelsets click into the axle holes with a little bit of pressure.

 

1788319592_031IMG_4233.JPG.6118995dcac722325ee054661b487f8a.JPG


The centre wheelset was left with a bit of left-right slop when pushing in the bearings which will hopefully help it navigate curves.

217358602_032IMG_4241.JPG.2bf5c39216214a21f20d7b87c200bc4f.JPG

 

Hi Pete

 

What wheels did you use? Do they come ready gauged, or can you move the wheels on the axles?

 

I'm contemplating rewheeling a Triang suburban. I was thinking about using wheels which can be moved on the axles, so an axle can be fed in from the outside, a couple of wheels slide onto it, gauge adjusted, then bearings applied. Reason being that it avoids the vertical slot. But maybe it's not worth it; depends on what choice of wheels there are.

 

Nigel

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14 hours ago, NCB said:

I'm contemplating rewheeling a Triang suburban. I was thinking about using wheels which can be moved on the axles, so an axle can be fed in from the outside, a couple of wheels slide onto it, gauge adjusted, then bearings applied. Reason being that it avoids the vertical slot. But maybe it's not worth it; depends on what choice of wheels there are.

 

Hi Nigel,

 

I think the wheels are Kean Maygib, I fished them out of this big box o' bits I have accumulated largely through years of rummaging in second-hand stall boxes at 3mm Society meets and thinking "Interesting, that might come in useful one day..."   

 

IMG_4272.JPG.df13d72dcfda5ecc1a9f16d13f198726.JPG

 

Having re-wheeled a few Tri-ang coaches I must say your proposed method sounds a bit complicated and I've had problems in the past getting wheels square to the axle again after taking them off (when making Society diesel chassis kits for example). The vertical slot really isn't much of a problem, I find it only takes a couple of minutes to do each coach using a Dremel electric drill;

 

IMG_4265.JPG.b954e512dd122d7b682594820bac3aa2.JPG

 

As you can see in the photo you only need 3 slots per bogie, the leading wheelset drops in nicely with only one, but the rear wheelset needs two slots as the frame stretcher gets in the way. I use 10.5mm diameter 12mm gauge wheelsets for re-wheeling both Tri-ang coaches and wagons, but 9mm diameter for kit-built wagons.

3SMR have a varied selection of wheels at http://www.3smr.com/wheelstock.html

 

Cheers,
Peter.

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My Tri-ang Evening Star had a bit of a hic-cup.  3 of the 4 flanged wheels had too finer flange to run on Tri-ang track, plus 2 of those 3 were different diameters by about .25mm.   Now though Evening Star runs around Tri-ang track.  I found some old Romfords which are far better than the new ones and fitted them in place of the others. Then I found out the crank throw is different between old and new and found one pair of old flangeless wheels. Great, a good run with just old wheels on straight track, but, Romfords are different thickness to Tri-ang so it would not go around Tri-ang curves. The solution was to set the wheels as flangeless, flanged, flangeless, flanged, flangeless giving a short wheelbase which now goes around Tri-ang curves very nicely. The outer two pairs at the moment are for show as the crank throw is wrong as mentioned and can be seen in the photo, but will suffice until I get 4 more old Romfords to replace them. For those of you who know about drilling and tapping, putting a 1mm drill then 12ba tap into Mazak was not the easiest thing I have done and thankfully did 4 without breaking either drill or tap.  All 3 wheels are classed as 15mm diameter.

 

Garry

Evening Star on the curve.JPG

3 different Romfords.JPG

Edited by Golden Fleece 30
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The outer wheels no longer appear to be over the rails, that might be a problem if they are the same exact diameter as the flanged wheels as they could catch the outer face on the rail as the track straightens up. The most likely place for this to happen would be where there is a sharp curve and a gradient close together. Usually flangeless wheels are made slightly smaller than the flanged ones for this reason.

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46 minutes ago, whart57 said:

The outer wheels no longer appear to be over the rails, that might be a problem if they are the same exact diameter as the flanged wheels as they could catch the outer face on the rail as the track straightens up. The most likely place for this to happen would be where there is a sharp curve and a gradient close together. Usually flangeless wheels are made slightly smaller than the flanged ones for this reason.

The flangless wheels were approx 0.25 to 0.5 smaller in diameter but it is more noticeable since the older Romfords were used.  The older flanged Romfords measured at 15mm but the newer ones were various but none at 15, the largest was 14.88 even though it was sold as 15.

 

Regarding your comment about the flangless wheels catching the rail on curves is why 9F's are not allowed on BR tracks now as we are using the continental system with frog check rails being higher than the running rail. 

 

Garry 

Edited by Silverfox17
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13 hours ago, Golden Fleece 30 said:

 The solution was to set the wheels as flangeless, flanged, flangeless, flanged, flangeless giving a short wheelbase

 

Hi Garry,

 

My Branchlines 9F chassis has a slightly different arrangement of Romfords with Flanged, unflanged, unflanged, Flanged, unflanged. Runs fine on my test track circuit but haven't tried it through pointwork yet.

 

IMG_4290.JPG.4518902a71e5474ce9964d454ccd24c2.JPG

 

<sigh> I really must get around to finishing the rest of the loco one of these days...

 

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14 hours ago, Golden Fleece 30 said:

The outer two pairs for the moment are for show as the crank throw is wrong as mentioned and can be seen in the photo, but will suffice until I get 4 more old Romfords to replace them. All 3 wheels are classed as 15mm diameter.

Evening Star on the curve.JPG

3 different Romfords.JPG

 

Am I right in thinking that you are looking for Flangeless wheels in the style of the left hand one in the photo ....if so what is the crank throw as I'm fairly sure that I have a bag of 15mm Romfords that I acquired somewhere along the line and will gladly let you have some if they are compatible.

 

Regards,

Ian.

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1 hour ago, TT-Pete said:

 

Hi Garry,

 

My Branchlines 9F chassis has a slightly different arrangement of Romfords with Flanged, unflanged, unflanged, Flanged, unflanged. Runs fine on my test track circuit but haven't tried it through pointwork yet.

 

IMG_4290.JPG.4518902a71e5474ce9964d454ccd24c2.JPG

 

<sigh> I really must get around to finishing the rest of the loco one of these days...

 

I had that arrangement initially Pete if you look a few posts back but it would not go around Tri-ang curves which I still want it to do hence swapping the first and second axles around. 

 

My Tri-ang Jinty wheeled one has the same arrangement as yours and will go around Tri-ang curves but that is due to the flanges closer together but it looks wrong as the wheels are small but I wanted a more Tri-ang look. 

 

Garry 

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1 hour ago, 03060 said:

 

Am I right in thinking that you are looking for Flangeless wheels in the style of the left hand one in the photo ....if so what is the crank throw as I'm fairly sure that I have a bag of 15mm Romfords that I acquired somewhere along the line and will gladly let you have some if they are compatible.

 

Regards,

Ian.

I will get back to you later Ian, thanks. 

 

Garry 

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Received the 08 chassis etch this lunch time and assembled it, the chassis needs a good clean up then painting now that it works. Initially the odd crank wanted moving to get them quartered as best I could eyeing up the wheel and crank holes. Soldered in the crank pins and it ran nicely. Then I found I had them too far out from the body so it was a case of melting the solder and revolving one revolution but now no sighting hole so guess work, took two attempts but got it running again. Now, the crank pin inner protrusion was fouling the body so a little filing to smooth it out and she runs nicely again.

 

Garry

08 chassis working 2.JPG

08 Chassis working 1.JPG

Edited by Golden Fleece 30
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On 04/05/2021 at 19:48, maridunian said:

 

Meanwhile, back in the 20th century, my vaguely Hudswell Clarke-ish shunter is coming along thanks to razor saws, files, plasticard, a whitemetal chimney (!), Emery paper, etc, etc. 

 

_20210504_193800.JPG.bdd720ad215f561bf849a762cf14fc2b.JPG

 

New buffer beam facings to add next with properly spaced and sized buffers at the right height. Plus couplings... 

 

Mike 

 

Here we are, my more or less finished, pseudo Hudswell Clarke 0-4-0DM. 

 

_20210521_120319.JPG.0d7aa29e0092060a8993cbad2181f555.JPG

 

Couplings, larger buffer heads and matt varnish still to be added. 

 

Mike 

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Hello Mike,

 

Any chance of a below the footplate shot, please, very interested to see hoe you've adapted the chassis. It certainly looks the part, living close to the Middleton railway in Leeds I'm fairly familiar with their two Hudswells which I love to see when they are allowed out to play ! :mocking_mini:

 

Regards,

Ian.

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On 21/05/2021 at 19:07, 03060 said:

Hello Mike,

 

Any chance of a below the footplate shot, please, very interested to see hoe you've adapted the chassis. It certainly looks the part, living close to the Middleton railway in Leeds I'm fairly familiar with their two Hudswells which I love to see when they are allowed out to play ! :mocking_mini:

 

Regards,

Ian.

Thanks Ian

 

I should have given more detail throughout, but was unsure of the interest here. Apologies. 

 

The V36 has axle, axle, jackshaft, axle:

 

 

 

NB No pin nor coupling rod hole for wheelset 2. Pins are push fit into soft plastic wheel inserts. 

 

With the bottom plate removed (two small bolts into captive brass nuts) we see this rearrangement for mine (cab at left):

 

_20210522_085106.JPG.aab736fe87bbec7b968945fb9c388bc4.JPG

 

With coupling pins out, the non-geared jackshaft is lifted out and swapped for the forward wheelset. 

 

That's it really. I added a 40thou plastic card footplate, which raises the overall height, but also allows proper height buffers. (I think at least one of the Middleton HCs has buffer beams that rise above the footplate?).

 

_20210522_085231.JPG.c9daf8a7ea5957edda8a1a9924c39d16.JPG

 

A 20thou cab back sheet allowed portholes to be drilled. The original roof was severely filed down to a better profile, then covered in 10thou plasticard. Windows filed out to suit. Bonnet filed rounder (not really enough) at top and shortened 5mm at front. This meant forfeiting a ballast weight, which I accepted. 

 

I had originally thought I'd make an 0-6-0 model with no jackshaft, so cut an additional axle slot just forward of the existing second wheel set, but changed my mind. 

 

All this all has been an exploration for me. These continental models have been around a long time and if they were simple to re-use in TT3, they obviously would have been. You'll see from my online shop that industrial railways and freight are my interests so a new body-swap project in a new scale has been fascinating. 

 

Mike 

 

 

Edited by maridunian
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Excellent Mike, thankyou for the detailed explanation. I know that I've occaisionally looked at the European locos on the second hand stalls at Society events but have usually ended up dismissing them having not seen the potential that you have and not wanting to get drawn into yet another distraction of modelling a continental railway. As I've said already, excellent in my opinion.

 

Regards,

Ian.

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Added another loco to the work in progress, this is another "tissue paper" kit this time an N2. As seems to be the norm there are some parts missing and the instructions are for a completely different loco. 

 

I have managed to fit a Tri-ang Prairie chassis in after a fair bit of grinding and filing the front spectacle plate and the pole pieces. The Praire wheels are only 1mm oversize so will be fine for this loco. 

 

Garry 

190665145_3865281763569797_6368671989118444009_n.jpg

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On 22/05/2021 at 15:49, 03060 said:

Excellent Mike, thankyou for the detailed explanation. I know that I've occaisionally looked at the European locos on the second hand stalls at Society events but have usually ended up dismissing them having not seen the potential that you have and not wanting to get drawn into yet another distraction of modelling a continental railway. As I've said already, excellent in my opinion.

 

Regards,

Ian.

 

Thank you Ian. 

 

An even easier conversion would be a North British 0-6-0DH like the example below. Similarly thicken the footplate, file out windows, add deeper buffer beams and reposition the buffers. Fill/file radiator and ventilation grills to taste.

 

The jackshaft was at the cab end, but that could be omitted and shrouds fitted if shuffling wheelsets were found to be too tricky. 

 

Mike 

this example

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Here is the B12 chassis, it is for another project using a Lincoln-Locos 3D body on a Tri-ang Britannia/M-Navy chassis. The lower front end has a small recess for the mounting plate, this was to give clearance for the bogie wheels. The rear as you can see has been cut away quite a bit, and, due to the rear rivet holding the frames together being sawn off a 1/16 hole has been drilled and a piece of brass rod soldered in. This holds them back and also prevents the rear block rotating. The bogie has had a new locating hole drilled and tapped moving it further forward. You can see how much of the motor protrudes into the cab but you have to accept these things at times.  At the moment I don't have a spare centre set of Castle wheels so a Bulleid pair is used, and, the bogie has Tri-ang Bulleid wheels until I re-drill the block and fit spoked ones.  At the moment there is no tender available so I may have to look at making one.

 

Garry

B12 chassis.JPG

B12 motor in cab.JPG

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On 06/05/2021 at 20:54, maridunian said:

 

Another coat of primer applied - different brand with a satin finish... 

 

_20210506_204856.JPG.ce420fa8bde954a0686304885745e14d.JPG

 

That's smooth enough for me! 

 

Mike

 

 

So here's the Nasmyth Wilson 0-8-0 more-or-less finished.

 

IMG_20210605_163759.JPG.9aa512fd4a7f7640af11298ce4e6a56d.JPG

 

I'll be painting the chassis and wheels to complete, then adding some couplings. 

 

Mike 

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On 01/06/2021 at 22:08, Golden Fleece 30 said:

Here is the B12 chassis, it is for another project using a Lincoln-Locos 3D body on a Tri-ang Britannia/M-Navy chassis. The lower front end has a small recess for the mounting plate, this was to give clearance for the bogie wheels. The rear as you can see has been cut away quite a bit, and, due to the rear rivet holding the frames together being sawn off a 1/16 hole has been drilled and a piece of brass rod soldered in. This holds them back and also prevents the rear block rotating. The bogie has had a new locating hole drilled and tapped moving it further forward. You can see how much of the motor protrudes into the cab but you have to accept these things at times.  At the moment I don't have a spare centre set of Castle wheels so a Bulleid pair is used, and, the bogie has Tri-ang Bulleid wheels until I re-drill the block and fit spoked ones.  At the moment there is no tender available so I may have to look at making one.

 

Garry

B12 chassis.JPG

B12 motor in cab.JPG

 

Reminds me of the original Triang 4mm B12, a loco I always admired.

 

Nigel

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7 hours ago, NCB said:

 

Reminds me of the original Triang 4mm B12, a loco I always admired.

 

Nigel

I am giving it the same number as the 00 one which is the BR number of the preserved one.  I don't know if it will get lined splashers though. 

 

Garry 

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My Lincoln-Locos V3 tank now flitted with Tri-ang style valve gear on one side. The chassis is a Tri-ang Prairie with no real modification, just filed the rear side block to fit inside the body and add a cylinder mounting plate. It did get a Britannia set of centre wheels so the return crank could be fitted with a nut.  It does need valve gear on the insulated side which I am going to experiment with using PCB under the top plate and soldering the slidebar assemby to that which in turn will be soldered to the top plate. 

 

Garry 

196562916_3906054006159239_3191949798942964512_n.jpg

Edited by Silverfox17
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