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This was never planned to be.

 

At a gathering of 3mm scale modellers I was given a 3D printed body of an LSWR 0330 class 0-6-0T. It had piqued my interest because Colonel Stephens had acquired a couple for his lines, one went to Rolvenden for use of the K&ESR and another to Shepherdswell to trundle up and down the EKR. Both appear from the photographic record to have had a lot of use in the 1930s. At the end of the meeting I was given the body with the instruction I could have it if I built a chassis for it.

 

Now as it happens I also needed a loco for 14.2mm gauge but with SQ wheels to test the new Finetrax point kit with that combination. Theoretically SQ wheels are outside the finescale standard but it is known that some 14.2mm gauge modellers do use them so testing the new point kits with those wheels is something that needed doing.

 

So here it is:

 

EKR_No7.JPG.23830c914aae84ebed64016b02921465.JPG

 

Build was a mix of old school and new school. The old school technique was employed of making the coupling rods first from two layers of nickel silver sweated together and then using that to mark and drill the axle holes in the frames. A nod to 21st century techniques was printing the frame outline onto sticky back labels for fretting out the frames and drilling the holes for things like brake hangers

 

Frame spacers were made in the lathe from the pins salvaged from 13 amp plugs. The new plugs with the plastic sleeves have a nice bit under the sleeve which is just long enough for a 14.2mm chassis. At least if you use thickish nickel silver and the spacers are 10mm rather than 10.5mm. Years ago I made myself a set of spacer jigs which fit accurately into the axle holes (when opened out to take a bearing) and hold the frames in alignment while the spacers are soldered in place.

 

I'm very much a fan of the N20 motor and Geoff Helliwell's crown and pinion transmission and I had one of his gear plate kits in stock. It needed a little trimming down the sides to fit inside the slightly narrower between frames space than Geoff designed them for but otherwise it went together with no sweat or swearing. The cross drilled jig Geoff sells to position the gear plate correctly vis a vis the driven axle is a must have, because it makes a tricky task much much easier. Mounting the motor in the upright position is a little fiddlier as it uses the screws that hold the N20 to the gearbox rather than the normal fixing screws but the only real cuss was getting the gear wheel onto the N20 shaft.

 

The SQ wheels with their square axle holes are easy to fit and I was amazed that when I fitted the coupling rods the wheels turned under power without any fettling or fiddling. I can honestly say that has never happened to me before.

 

Still a fair bit of work required to finish the loco - as East Kent No. 7 - but I have done enough to be able to run it through the new point. And it goes through a treat.

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3 hours ago, whart57 said:

This was never planned to be.

 

At a gathering of 3mm scale modellers I was given a 3D printed body of an LSWR 0330 class 0-6-0T. It had piqued my interest because Colonel Stephens had acquired a couple for his lines, one went to Rolvenden for use of the K&ESR and another to Shepherdswell to trundle up and down the EKR. Both appear from the photographic record to have had a lot of use in the 1930s. At the end of the meeting I was given the body with the instruction I could have it if I built a chassis for it.

 

Now as it happens I also needed a loco for 14.2mm gauge but with SQ wheels to test the new Finetrax point kit with that combination. Theoretically SQ wheels are outside the finescale standard but it is known that some 14.2mm gauge modellers do use them so testing the new point kits with those wheels is something that needed doing.

 

So here it is:

 

EKR_No7.JPG.23830c914aae84ebed64016b02921465.JPG

 

Build was a mix of old school and new school. The old school technique was employed of making the coupling rods first from two layers of nickel silver sweated together and then using that to mark and drill the axle holes in the frames. A nod to 21st century techniques was printing the frame outline onto sticky back labels for fretting out the frames and drilling the holes for things like brake hangers

 

Frame spacers were made in the lathe from the pins salvaged from 13 amp plugs. The new plugs with the plastic sleeves have a nice bit under the sleeve which is just long enough for a 14.2mm chassis. At least if you use thickish nickel silver and the spacers are 10mm rather than 10.5mm. Years ago I made myself a set of spacer jigs which fit accurately into the axle holes (when opened out to take a bearing) and hold the frames in alignment while the spacers are soldered in place.

 

I'm very much a fan of the N20 motor and Geoff Helliwell's crown and pinion transmission and I had one of his gear plate kits in stock. It needed a little trimming down the sides to fit inside the slightly narrower between frames space than Geoff designed them for but otherwise it went together with no sweat or swearing. The cross drilled jig Geoff sells to position the gear plate correctly vis a vis the driven axle is a must have, because it makes a tricky task much much easier. Mounting the motor in the upright position is a little fiddlier as it uses the screws that hold the N20 to the gearbox rather than the normal fixing screws but the only real cuss was getting the gear wheel onto the N20 shaft.

 

The SQ wheels with their square axle holes are easy to fit and I was amazed that when I fitted the coupling rods the wheels turned under power without any fettling or fiddling. I can honestly say that has never happened to me before.

 

Still a fair bit of work required to finish the loco - as East Kent No. 7 - but I have done enough to be able to run it through the new point. And it goes through a treat.

whose 3d design is this ?  I would love to print one in 2mm

 

Nick

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19 hours ago, nick_bastable said:

whose 3d design is this ?  I would love to print one in 2mm

 

Nick

 

Shall we say it was a private individual and I'm not sure he wants to get requests. Let me find out

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Close to finishing the body of my Cambrian Seaham. It has been under test running, weighted until I was satisfied. Here's a picture of it under test on my GWR layout:

 

m1020555.jpg.539eb0fef7dbdd6bbc2ca0ec9158fa8b.jpg

 

Nigel

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A very recent model hot of the press (print table) from Lenny at Lincoln Locos arrived today, a B16/1 and what a beauty. The tender has a full separate inside print which fits perfectly, as usual. Hopefully it will be as good as the B12 with a Tri-ang mechanism fitted.

 

Garry

IMG_20210904_175851.jpg

IMG_20210904_175923.jpg

IMG_20210824_205856.jpg

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2 minutes ago, Michael Edge said:

The EM2 looks nice, I presume the pans are just cosmetic but we can supply our kit in 3mm scale.

Yes, just cosmetic pantographs. They will be fine for now as I will not be installing any OLE on the layout. I just like it as a model and catenary does not do anything for me.

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Just completed a couple of models using my 3D printed 10'WB chasses.

 

_20210913_222308.JPG.b05510955f490fac4f5db45ec99632c0.JPG

 

Left, a Triang tank and fittings, right, my anchor mount tanker kit. The Triang tank will get bracing rods and steel ropes once the varnish is on. 

Edited by maridunian
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1 hour ago, maridunian said:

Just completed a couple of models using my 3D printed 10'WB chasses.

 

_20210913_222308.JPG.b05510955f490fac4f5db45ec99632c0.JPG

 

Left, a Triang tank and fittings, right, my anchor mount tanker kit. The Triang tank will get bracing rods and steel ropes once the varnish is on. 

hi could you post a link to your 3mm stuff for sale. tar. G

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

The "Tri-ang" WD (Lincoln-Locos) and 8F (brass/whitemetal)!have been varnished although still without their smokebox numbers as I am still waiting for them.  The B16/1 (Lincoln-Locos) is finished ex-works but I may give her a duller finish later. I did use some old etched valve gear from a different loco which was modified to fit but later I will get some specific ones done and I need to source a pair of spoked wheels for the front. Tenders are all coaled up. All the cabside numbers are the brilliant Railtec ones, other transfers are Fox

IMG_20210924_193142.jpg

IMG_20210924_193226.jpg

IMG_20210924_193333.jpg

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Just over a week ago I saw a GNR N gauge Stirling Single that had been done on Shapeways. I contacted the designer to ask if he would resize to 3mm and in a material that has a good finish. He said no problem and last Tuesday after showing me the design sent it to Shapeways and I placed an order at Tuesday lunch time. By Thursday morning it had been dispatched and arrived here yesterday. The finish was a lot better than others I have had and the fine grain easily sanded out with fine wet n dry. Primed now waiting for some colour.

IMG_20211005_175952.jpg

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See he's been considerate enough to do the holes for handrail knobs. Don't understand those who don't. Far easier to do it at the design stage rather on the finished print.

 

Who was the designer, Garry?

 

Nigel

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1 hour ago, NCB said:

See he's been considerate enough to do the holes for handrail knobs. Don't understand those who don't. Far easier to do it at the design stage rather on the finished print.

 

Who was the designer, Garry?

 

Nigel

Nigel, it was Newman Miniatures, a chap called Rudi Newman.  I drilled the holes but he had put dimples in which was what I asked for, I think he would already have done it but I wanted to make sure. There are also 3 holes in the footplate top for lamp irons but I think I may only use one and put 2 lamps where the outer two are.

 

Garry

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My Stirling Single coming along nicely. Lining is not too easy with the reverse corners on the tender so a little touch up will be required later.

 

Due to the unusual bogie splasher design which is prominent with this loco I may have to fit smaller bogie wheels.

 

Somehow I managed to paint the frames GCR red instead of GNR chocolate but now redone.

 

IMG_20211011_230356.jpg

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