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Peasevern Yard - 7mm BR Blue shunting layout


37114
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14 hours ago, 37114 said:

A bit of a diversion from layout building this week, I got given a Slaters 13t High sided open wagon for my birthday,  which will be a match truck for 03121, pictures on the web showed it often paired with one in my chosen 1977 modelling period.  This was my first Slaters kit and it has been a joy to build, the box contents being slightly intimidating until you realise that you don't need half of it!

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More nice work here Rob..

 

 

 

cheers neil..

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The layout has been making some progress, mostly boring stuff like finishing the wiring and testing it all works. I have made some more progress on the station end, a canopy being scratch built for the end of the conveyor building including a sign and poster from the track side signs range.

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The poster is a bit of artistic licence as I don't think there were any advertising boards this far down the platform. 

 

The lamp is scratch built from plastic rod, the taper at the top being made by clamping the lower end in an electric drill and then using sand paper held in my hand to smooth it to the right diameter.  I made the signage myself having downloaded the right font, the lamp is stuck to the backscene rather than the platform for security.  I have some people to go on the platform and a luggage trolley is on order as well. Next job is to finish the edging and the front face of the platform .

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On the 5th January I posted a few pictures that included a Dinky coles crane that was bought on ebay. I had a 4mm version on Peafore Yard so fancied the same on this layout and for less than £4 this battered toy was at least worth a look. The crane had no tyres although the wheels are very toy like so were high on the to bin list. The paint needed stripping and the crane jib was very basic.

 

First job was remove the old wheels and strip the paint. Handily the body can be hinged back which will make fitting a cab interior easier20200510_154203.jpg.91249265e11d93e4180edc754f107091.jpg

 

The new wheels were sourced from Lynx models who do an array of wheels and tyres, and on their website handily tell you the diameter. These were painted a few weeks ago.

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The wheels at the back are twin wheels which was correct for the prototype.  The challenge was Dinky only allowed room for single wheels so some creativity was required. I basically chopped the top half of the inner wheel off so I can glue the wheels straight to the chassis

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Next job I wanted to do was cut out the drivers door. These cranes often had the door left open and it also meant I could more easily detail the cab interior. I made a new door from plasticard 

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More to follow..

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The new wheels have been trial fitted and are perfect 

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I was tempted to try and replace the jib as it is basic and the framework looks flat. I thought about replacing it with a scratch built version but was lack the engineering and soldering skills to do it in brass and was worried about damage if I made it in plastic.  The framework was L section so I reasoned I could use some plasticard strip.to turn the flat face into something more realistic. The end result looks better than I expected but won't get too excited until it is in primer.

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Visible in the above shot is the load indicator/warning device, this has a visual scale and an audible warning bell as well. I made the pulley wheel and warning system from some.left over 4mm items.20200510_154000.jpg.542a42759530fd60438a9bfa74f363ce.jpg

 

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A bit more progress on the crane,  I have got a cab interior in made from scrap plastic and some brass rod. I have completed the framework for the underside of the jib as well which makes a big difference. Next task is to spray it then fit the cabling and hook.20200511_213237.jpg.7ea28f245e91505983f8587c006360b1.jpg

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3 hours ago, 37114 said:

A bit more progress on the crane,  I have got a cab interior in made from scrap plastic and some brass rod. I have completed the framework for the underside of the jib as well which makes a big difference. Next task is to spray it then fit the cabling and hook.20200511_213237.jpg.7ea28f245e91505983f8587c006360b1.jpg

More good work,following this build...:senile:

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I have run out of ballast but hoping to get some more in the next few weeks so have been focusing on some stock builds and the crane. I have finished the High goods with the exception of varnishing:

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I am now working on a first class kits Presflo (separate thread and finishing the crane

Edited by 37114
typo
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7 hours ago, andy stroud said:

Those wagons look really nice.

Thanks Andy, O gauge certainly brings a different challenge in that due to the size of wagons, they can look toy like fresh out of the box so the weathering becomes all the more important. I think there is something like 8 or 9 different colours and 3 different powders used to weather this one.

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7 hours ago, 37114 said:

Thanks Andy, O gauge certainly brings a different challenge in that due to the size of wagons, they can look toy like fresh out of the box so the weathering becomes all the more important. I think there is something like 8 or 9 different colours and 3 different powders used to weather this one.

Yes I agree that the weathering is all important and at the same time it is easy to get it  wrong and actually make the models look quite unnatural. In your case, these wagons look spot on.

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Hi Andy.

Following your thread mainly due to the 13T Steel Open. I have just completed the build of an old RJH etched brass kit. Bit of a struggle with the brake gear as I had no instructions & only a flaky picture to work from, but okay now. I'm interested in how you have painted/weathered in inside of the body. Could you post a picture perhaps ?

Thanks.

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45 minutes ago, fredwrekin said:

Hi Andy.

Following your thread mainly due to the 13T Steel Open. I have just completed the build of an old RJH etched brass kit. Bit of a struggle with the brake gear as I had no instructions & only a flaky picture to work from, but okay now. I'm interested in how you have painted/weathered in inside of the body. Could you post a picture perhaps ?

Thanks.

 

Hi Fred,

 

I will try to explain and see the picture, worth bearing in mind though as my wagon is a match truck for my class 03's, I have weathered it as if nothing had been in it for a long time and water has pooled in the bottom which will be different for revenue earning stock. 

 

I use mainly washes of  enamels and powders as I don't have an airbrush:

- Primed the whole wagon with White primer

- Gave the inside a wash with circa 70% dark grey (Humbrol no 5)/30% thinners

- Once dry, I mixed up some Humbrol 67 with Humbrol 70 and diluted 60%/40% with thinners. This was then washed side to side on the bottom and then bottom to top on the sides/ends/

- Once dry I got some Humbrol 186, mixed 50%/50% with thinners and ran some around the edges as well as created some puddles in the centre of the wagons. While wet I then add Rust coloured powder.

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I won't profess to be an expert as I usually turn to Dave Spencer who is a bit of a wagon weathering guru but obviously due to lockdown we haven't met up for a while.

 

Thanks Rob.

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On 17/05/2020 at 20:50, 37114 said:

I have finished the High bar with the exception of varnishing

That's an exceptional finish there, Andy.

As it doesn't have a bar, isn't it just a "High"?

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7 minutes ago, Regularity said:

That's an exceptional finish there, Andy.

As it doesn't have a bar, isn't it just a "High"?

Technically yes it is just a "High Goods", the other wagon in the earlier pictures does have a bar hence the slip of the tongue

 

Thanks Rob (not Andy!)

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Credit where it's due mate, and it's certainly due here! Making bits of plastic look like rusted metal is a bit of a black art. I can do it in 4mm but I've never had a go in 7mm. I don't know if my method would scale up without modification. Your work gives that wagon a solid presence that you don't get quite the same way with 4mm. I too use brushes for most of it and powders. I only use a rattle can for blowing the whole thing over in red oxide as an undercoat and a varnish to fix the decals. I use silicone sealant as a mask, you can use copydex for a mask as well but I can't get on with it. It gives you a nice raised edge effect to bubbling paint work.    

Regards Lez.

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Good explanation of your method Rob, the wagon looks superb! You've got a bit of texture there which I think you need in 7mm but not always 4mm, the rust on the wagon floor really looks like it's flaking and corroding. 

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Thanks guys,  it has turned out better than I expected.  One of the things I have found strange is having modelled 4mm for all my life, my eyes have a sense of perspective and scale based on 4mm models; I am having to adjust this perspective and therefore trying out new techniques which ordinarily wouldn't have worked in 4mm but look great in 7mm.

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I've not been getting any notifications even though i have this layout on following, so sorry i have'nt posted before now, i'm just catching up. Loving the layout and the wagon and its weathering is spot on Rob, i admit that i know nowt about wagons at all and i would really like one for my layout, can you please tell me if this is one of the same type in this 1980 pic' of mine with the 25 at SP depot?  Here's a pic' of then GL allocated 08 486 and maybe a future plough project for you,;) Pic' taken from Bristol TM. 1980. Cheers Bob.

 

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1 hour ago, Owd Bob said:

I've not been getting any notifications even though i have this layout on following, so sorry i have'nt posted before now, i'm just catching up. Loving the layout and the wagon and its weathering is spot on Rob, i admit that i know nowt about wagons at all and i would really like one for my layout, can you please tell me if this is one of the same type in this 1980 pic' of mine with the 25 at SP depot?  Here's a pic' of then GL allocated 08 486 and maybe a future plough project for you,;) Pic' taken from Bristol TM. 1980. Cheers Bob.

 

 

 

Thanks for the comments Bob, yes the wagon is the same type, Slaters 13t High Goods is the kit you need, a nice easy build. The one in the picture has the tarpaulin bars fitted (Horizontal bar at the bottom of the wagon), Slaters say in their instructions they can supply some of the additional bits to make this variant separately. Depending on how much of a stickler you are for accuracy when choosing your prototype there are 2 different brake types to worry about plus axle box variants but as ever Paul Bartlett's website is your friend when it comes to wagon builds:

https://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/bropenmerchandisesteel

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