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Rustons Sidings.


sb67
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I have to echo Al's comment, Steve. This is coming together very nicely. 

 

Rob 

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With the embankments still drying nicely it's time to think about the rest of the layout. My plan is, I think! some rough earth ballast on the left hand siding and beach sand and DAS around other areas. I'd like a water tower/tank somewhere, or just suggest it's off stage,  and a coaling stage on the kickback siding, which has some 'lifted track' at the end so presumably it used to go somewhere else. 

The area to the left will be fenced off from the yard and have a house and garden/vegetable patch. 

The house in the photo is a Peco station house, I do have a Wills craftsman kit of a house which is a bit bigger, I'm not sure whether to use that.

 

83159042_619540875459745_1401499308162809856_n.jpg.d2d854784d3d211bd319c92ae80431ea.jpg

 

 

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9 hours ago, sb67 said:

I'd like a water tower/tank somewhere, or just suggest it's off stage,  and a coaling stage on the kickback siding, which has some 'lifted track' at the end so presumably it used to go somewhere else. 

 

I built the Wills kit for a small water tower for my own layout. The model has a footprint about 52 x 52 mm, and has a stone base which would blend in with your bridge.

 

- Richard.

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1 hour ago, 47137 said:

 

I built the Wills kit for a small water tower for my own layout. The model has a footprint about 52 x 52 mm, and has a stone base which would blend in with your bridge.

 

- Richard.

 

Thanks Richard, I like the look of that kit and I'll have a measure to see how it will fit. I also thought about a freelance tower or tank to fit in with the industrial theme but I'm not sure how to go about that yet. 

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Been looking at how to paint the embankment I've put a base coat of grey on the face of it, not sure if I will add washes or stipple greys and browns over the top yet, I think it needs lightening a bit. The top has had a mix of Humbrol gloss brown and grey then some ash sieved over it. I'm hoping to have a bramble lined path running up to the bridge with some small trees and bushes.

 

82431515_580099825881352_4676200361403351040_n.jpg.b8b648d7004f93261ade498c586d244f.jpg

 

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9 hours ago, 4wDH said:

Steve I like what you have done with the embankment..

 

Thank you. It's getting there, I just need to find a way of making it more lifelike, it's a bit flat at the moment. Been trawling youtube to find a way of varying the colours a bit.

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Hi Steve,

 

Only just caught up with this after a while and it looks great. I particularly like the stonework on the bridge and the interesting discussions on colours and application methods - very helpful indeed.

 

Looking forward to the ballasting/ground cover stage.

 

regards,

James

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Despite using the same colour as the bloke on the youtube video my base colour has dried Blue! ish, not sure how to get over this. A visit to Wilko's and I think I'll have to re paint and start again. Even if I stippled colours over the top I think it would look blue underneath. 

83495771_132228044495738_855084849982078976_n.jpg.038bc6ae53d2e4aab7db3b9e778fae5f.jpg

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I made a start on the rocks, re painted them grey then stippled over various shades. Next some washes, I think it looks a bit too rocky t the moment but hopefully I'll remedy that later. I also started to add some green bits to the top of the bank, static grass and some longer fibres, also some dead leaves, haven't finished with that yet though.

 

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82859752_653907272017539_7311009926728384512_n.jpg.a82de51a47323f2d690852ce1315f018.jpg

 

 

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That is some lovely modelling!

 

Steve, what you have so far is a good basis to work from, you just need to add some clear demarcations of colour to highlight the different strata of rocks, and maybe add some strata lines into the face of the plaster with a scribe or other sharp tool.

 

The rock face that I did with filler, shown earlier in the thread, ended up like this:

 

doveholes-cutting002.jpg.21019cfd64de9b7b2bf60094b6d39f01.jpg

 

Big patches of different colours. This isn't as good as Woko's in the thread Stu linked to, but similar in approach.

 

Hope that gives you some ideas.

 

Al.

 

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Thanks Al, looking at it I think I might stipple some more lighter shades on there too. 

I tried a bit more static grass work but it came out a bit flat, I've a tea strainer applicator and although the batteries haven't been in long I don't think it had  enough oomph to charge the fibres, I did a layer of paint to stick them on so maybe that could have been thicker.

 

82595471_649507839197044_3633501427147472896_n.jpg.32035e000170adb33c8b9159f197b146.jpg

 

 

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Hi Steve

 

I only apply static grass in small areas at a time using a puffer bottle and get the fibres to stick up more by passing the hoover nozzle over them a couple of minutes after they have been sprinkled over the glue base.The suction pulls the fibers upwards. It takes a bit of practice for the desired effect as it is dependent on glue you use (I use diluted PVA) and how powerful the suction of your hoover is. So try on some scrap card first and vary times between laying the static grass before you apply any suction, otherwise you will suck everything back up the hoover if you do it too soon or hold the nozzle too close.

 

Also with the rock face do you have use of an airbrush as this helps blend in colours more subtly, also several washes of very diluted black and/or very dark brown can emphasis depth and shadows when the paint runs into all the crevices. There are also many dry brushing techniques as well which you normally finish the effect with to give the weathered look. By the way looks impressive already.

 

Good luck

Mark

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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28 minutes ago, MAP66 said:

Hi Steve

 

I only apply static grass in small areas at a time using a puffer bottle and get the fibres to stick up more by passing the hoover nozzle over them a couple of minutes after they have been sprinkled over the glue base.The suction pulls the fibers upwards. It takes a bit of practice for the desired effect as it is dependent on glue you use (I use diluted PVA) and how powerful the suction of your hoover is. So try on some scrap card first and vary times between laying the static grass before you apply any suction, otherwise you will suck everything back up the hoover if you do it too soon or hold the nozzle too close.

 

Also with the rock face do you have use of an airbrush as this helps blend in colours more subtly, also several washes of very diluted black and/or very dark brown can emphasis depth and shadows when the paint runs into all the crevices. There are also many dry brushing techniques as well which you normally finish the effect with to give the weathered look. By the way looks impressive already.

 

Good luck

Mark

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks Mark, I did use a hoover to try and suck the fibres up but they must have landed flat which led me to believe they weren't charged properly. I'll try a puffer bottle. As I'm only doing small areas I'm not sure if I put the nail from the applicator in the right place either, I've not had much experience with this static grass stuff. 

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Hi Steve,

 

I use a tea strainer concoction as well. One way to test, before you start scattering fibre, is to lower the basket slowly onto the painted / glued area. if the applicator is working properly you should hear a ZAP! to show that the charge is sufficient, and your nail / screw or whatever is making contact.

 

Al.

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I've made some brambles using horse hair and scatter, this scene needs some work but that's kind of what I'm aiming for.

 

82998940_583232285852908_7731021285479677952_n.jpg.e314be568f3609cec61fd84d77314176.jpg

 

I made the brambles by soaking the horse hair in dilute PVA then adding scatter but as I'm moving them about the "leaves" are brittle and keep falling off.

Should I use matt varnish or hairspray to seal them?

 

 

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