Any S-Scale Question Answered

[Timber]

Small tube of Vallejo matt black paint arived via amazon and it really is nice paint,  I will try some other colours but the coverage and consistency is superb.  I have not tried every brand, there may be some better ones out there but this is very good. 

 

Just the help i needed - thank you.

Edited September 3, 2021 by Timber

[Hando]

Is bog-standard Code 100 flat-bottom rail appropriate for use in S scale?

[Regularity]

Any specific prototype in kind, or indeed brand of rail?

 

For prototype info, have a look here:

SSMRS rail sections page

For comparison of some rail sizes, here is a useful table, courtesy of Fast Tracks:

[Hando]

13 hours ago, Regularity said:

Any specific prototype in kind, or indeed brand of rail?

 

For prototype info, have a look here:

SSMRS rail sections page

For comparison of some rail sizes, here is a useful table, courtesy of Fast Tracks:

Thanks,

Prototype-wise, I was thinking of building a East Anglian light railway/backwater line.

Edited October 25, 2021 by Hando

[Regularity]

Something lighter might be more appropriate: code 100 is pretty much mainline standard.

The key visual element is the width of the rail head: for example, Walters code 83 rail has a wider head than other brands, which is not good for H0 but useful for S! If you are thinking of something along the lines of the Middy, then even smaller rail might do - code 75, for example.

Something built by the GER, though, might have used secondhand rail from upgraded mainlines, in which case you could use 4mm scale bullhead and chairs.

The only standards we have in S are those which matter: the tyre profile, the flangeways and the derived back to back using those two in combination with the track gauge. Everything else is down to how close to scale you wish to get.

[MarshLane]

Just drawing out a set of frames for a locomotive - initially its just going to be a basic set of frames to go with High Level Kits hornblocks/bearings and something like a Roadrunner gearbox and motor, to get something moving.  Never built or designed a chassis before, so this is basic 0-6-0 design and intended to be thrown away afterwards (minus what can be reused on the first proper loco of course!)

 

My thought and idea was to go for a split-frame principal, using PCB (insulated down the middle) for frame spacers.  Having looked around it looks like Gibson wheels on 1/8" diameter axles, which can be cut in half and with a small 1-2mm middle section removed, paired with some 2mm Association muffs which are for 1/8" diameter axles, with either a 2mm or 3mm outside diameter for mounting the gear from a High Level Kits Roadrunner gearbox.  I appreciate there is going to have to be some very fine wire soldered/tension fit into a small hole on the wheel tyre and on the axle itself in order to make the axle live - I dont have (and wouldn't know how to work) a lathe, so the brass Gibson wheels while ideal are not an option.

 

My query being can anyone see any problems with the above, and is there a better or simpler way - I know I have a habit of over complicating things!

 

Richie

[Regularity]

Branchlines (used to?) produce parts for split axles. Say you want them for S, and he may be able to send you different pieces that will give you more than enough length per axle.

You need to add a plastic washer and epoxy when assembling them.

[Timber]

If you are using gibson wheels why not use pickups?  I am sure that split axles will give better running but if this is your first chassis then pickups will keep it simple.

[Regularity]

3 hours ago, Timber said:

If you are using gibson wheels why not use pickups?  I am sure that split axles will give better running but if this is your first chassis then pickups will keep it simple.

Depends on your definition of simple!

(I find split axles simpler than wiper pickups, for example.)

[MarshLane]

11 hours ago, Timber said:

If you are using gibson wheels why not use pickups?  I am sure that split axles will give better running but if this is your first chassis then pickups will keep it simple.

Did think about it, but I have run split axle designed locos in 2FS and the electrical pick-up was so much better. Plus if your learning, why not learn (what I seem to be) the right way to start with?! Looking to get free and smooth running and good pickups so to my mind, split chassis is the way to go. But thanks for the thought.

 

[Regularity]

Actually, all you need is some ⅛” external diameter tube, and some strong non-conductive material to force into it, or glue into it with a very snug fit. You can the very carefully cut through the tube to create a gap. Or glue two pieces of tube onto the centre, as long as you have a V-block or similar in which to place the axle whilst it sets.

[MarshLane]

1 hour ago, Regularity said:

Actually, all you need is some ⅛” external diameter tube, and some strong non-conductive material to force into it, or glue into it with a very snug fit. You can the very carefully cut through the tube to create a gap. Or glue two pieces of tube onto the centre, as long as you have a V-block or similar in which to place the axle whilst it sets.

 

Hmm, thats a fascinating thought actually - another example of me trying to over complicate things!!  That could make things easier, and mean that 2mm external diameter tube could be used, so that the HLK gear will go directly on to it.

 

Richie

[Regularity]

You might be able to find suitable plastic rod in the model aircraft section of your local model shop.

[Beechnut]

Hi Simon, the J69 has had a lick of paint, well not fitted the crew or lamps but nearly there.

 

Brendan

 

 

[Regularity]

Lovely.

[Beechnut]

Got to build some passenger stock now and maybe a J15, will have to have a chat with Jas about that.

 

Brendan

[Regularity]

Shame you aren’t modelling an earlier eraI could have loaned you 1308.

[ScottW]

On 03/11/2021 at 22:33, MarshLane said:

Just drawing out a set of frames for a locomotive - initially its just going to be a basic set of frames to go with High Level Kits hornblocks/bearings and something like a Roadrunner gearbox and motor, to get something moving.  Never built or designed a chassis before, so this is basic 0-6-0 design and intended to be thrown away afterwards (minus what can be reused on the first proper loco of course!)

 

My thought and idea was to go for a split-frame principal, using PCB (insulated down the middle) for frame spacers.  Having looked around it looks like Gibson wheels on 1/8" diameter axles, which can be cut in half and with a small 1-2mm middle section removed, paired with some 2mm Association muffs which are for 1/8" diameter axles, with either a 2mm or 3mm outside diameter for mounting the gear from a High Level Kits Roadrunner gearbox.  I appreciate there is going to have to be some very fine wire soldered/tension fit into a small hole on the wheel tyre and on the axle itself in order to make the axle live - I dont have (and wouldn't know how to work) a lathe, so the brass Gibson wheels while ideal are not an option.

 

My query being can anyone see any problems with the above, and is there a better or simpler way - I know I have a habit of over complicating things!

 

Richie

 

Just to throw in a few thoughts of my own:

 

> Why build a chassis with the view to throwing it away? For me, and I would imagine quite a lot of people, time at the workbench is a precious commodity. I get annoyed with myself if I have spent a good number of hours on something only for it to end up in the bin. I don't know what railway company your are interested in but would it not be better to build a BASIC chassis for a particular prototype locomotive you are interested in? Produce the frames and spacers then install the the wheels and motor and you have a basic chassis. At a later date when your skill, knowledge and confidence has grown you simply add more detail to it.

> I also prefer split frames but with the few locomotives I have built the wheels were made using the brass society castings. Personnaly, if I were using the Gibson plastic wheels then I would probably just fit pick-ups rather than going to the bother of installing bits of wire to the back of wheels - I would also make the frame spacers out of metal. But as I said, that would be my personnal preference. @Timber uses sprung pick-ups and appears to produce a suitable running quality.

> Branchlines do indeed sell both 1/8" and 2mm split axles - unless that has changed in the last few years. Despite being designed mainly with the 4mm market in mind the axles are actually over length, even for S Scale, and you will need to cut them down to the correct length. They also come with a small insulated washer. Branchlines also used to sell a jig to ensure both parts of the axle remained concetric whilst the epoxy cures.

[Beechnut]

21 hours ago, Regularity said:

Shame you aren’t modelling an earlier eraI could have loaned you 1308.

1308? I’m intrigued, well I was. Google suggests a G69 2-4-2. Out of interest what’s the story behind 1308, builder, layout etc?

 

Brendan

[MarshLane]

2 hours ago, ScottW said:

 

Just to throw in a few thoughts of my own:

 

> Why build a chassis with the view to throwing it away? For me, and I would imagine quite a lot of people, time at the workbench is a precious commodity. I get annoyed with myself if I have spent a good number of hours on something only for it to end up in the bin. I don't know what railway company your are interested in but would it not be better to build a BASIC chassis for a particular prototype locomotive you are interested in? Produce the frames and spacers then install the the wheels and motor and you have a basic chassis. At a later date when your skill, knowledge and confidence has grown you simply add more detail to it.

> I also prefer split frames but with the few locomotives I have built the wheels were made using the brass society castings. Personnaly, if I were using the Gibson plastic wheels then I would probably just fit pick-ups rather than going to the bother of installing bits of wire to the back of wheels - I would also make the frame spacers out of metal. But as I said, that would be my personnal preference. @Timber uses sprung pick-ups and appears to produce a suitable running quality.

> Branchlines do indeed sell both 1/8" and 2mm split axles - unless that has changed in the last few years. Despite being designed mainly with the 4mm market in mind the axles are actually over length, even for S Scale, and you will need to cut them down to the correct length. They also come with a small insulated washer. Branchlines also used to sell a jig to ensure both parts of the axle remained concetric whilst the epoxy cures.

 

Hi Scott,

Thanks for your thoughts and input, all much appreciated. The idea of throwing the chassis away was not so much a 'that is what I intend to do', more a case of it being the first thing of this kind that I have done, so expected to make mistakes and learn from it.  I know what you mean about getting annoyed if time has been spent for no outcome.  I was perhaps speaking too honestly in that I had a bit of an expectation to 'c*ock it up' first time around! 

 

You may be right about pick-ups, I do have a habit of over thinking things so maybe just creating the whole chassis out of metal and using plunger or sprung pick-ups would be the way forward. I remember question in a school test being something like "what is the easiest way to get to the bus station?" one friend put 'walk there', and other said 'get my dad to take me' .. me being me said "walking could take too long and if you took the car you have to find somewhere to park, so get the 312 bus to Watkinson Terrace and change onto the 303 into the bus station"!!!  I recall my teacher saying I had massively over thought the question but well done on knowing the bus routes!  I remember commenting if it had been trains I could have told her the times too!!!!

 

I was going to try and ring Branchlines today and enquire about their split axles, but ran out of time - one for tomorrow!

Richie

[Regularity]

38 minutes ago, Beechnut said:

1308? I’m intrigued, well I was. Google suggests a G69 2-4-2. Out of interest what’s the story behind 1308, builder, layout etc?

 

Brendan

Ok, your Google search was a bit worrying, as although it is a 2-4-4T, it’s a Y65 (LNER F7).

Body largely by Ken Morgan, who also cut the frames. Chassis assembly with radial trucks by Trevor Nunn. Body and chassis final detailing by yours truly, and painting by Maurice Hopper.

I have an interest in the Stoke Ferry branch: I have a GER brakevan body somewhere, in need of paint and running gear. 

[Beechnut]

Equally lovely Simon and thanks for the lineage.

 

If ever we meet at a show it would be great to give it a run. Are you booked for Craven Arms 2022?
 

Brendan

 

 

[Regularity]

I am not currently booked for anything.

[ianb3174]

In the spirit of Question Time, what do the panel suggest as the best approach to ballast? I'm a byway type line, so what would be appropriate in S?

[Regularity]

Depends where your byway is, and the practice of the company you are modelling.

I gave used “N gauge” ballast, and Woodlands Scenics “fine cinders”. Also sand, dyed black with ink.