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Corbs

Hunslet 48150 from Hornby/Dapol Austerity Bodge/Bash [Battery Power/Radio Control]

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Hacked some holes in the chassis block so I could fit proper 3-links. The battery (attached to the loco body) sits in the large space in the centre of the chassis.

 

UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_ceaf.jpg.0573a2690471796be606c750d159dcf0.jpg

 

Posing here with its stablemate, YEC Type 1 No.16. Added a driver to the cab as well as refitting the brake handle and reverser. The wires inside have been painted black.

 

Have to say I'm really pleased with how this has turned out, it's been on my mind for a while and I'm really glad I took the plunge and did it. The YEC is due a chimney upgrade.

 

UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_cec2.jpg.7df21c74b6c0413abf02de2b5df670b3.jpg

UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_cec1.jpg.b69e9df5ed7c672deee1fea9755694e4.jpg

 

 

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38 minutes ago, Corbs said:

Hacked some holes in the chassis block so I could fit proper 3-links. The battery (attached to the loco body) sits in the large space in the centre of the chassis.

 

https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/uploads/monthly_2019_11/UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_ceaf.jpg.0573a2690471796be606c750d159dcf0.jpg

 

Posing here with its stablemate, YEC Type 1 No.16. Added a driver to the cab as well as refitting the brake handle and reverser. The wires inside have been painted black.

 

Have to say I'm really pleased with how this has turned out, it's been on my mind for a while and I'm really glad I took the plunge and did it. The YEC is due a chimney upgrade.

 

https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/uploads/monthly_2019_11/UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_cec2.jpg.7df21c74b6c0413abf02de2b5df670b3.jpg

https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/uploads/monthly_2019_11/UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_cec1.jpg.b69e9df5ed7c672deee1fea9755694e4.jpg

 

 

Excellent work. I have to keep reminding myself that you are working in a "junior" scale.

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To be honest sometimes I think it makes it easier, 4mm/00 for me is in the sweet spot between being too fiddly and so large that any errors are magnified!

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The radio control is very clever. Do you have a list of parts that you used, or a link to another post/blog that describes what you have been using?

 

Cheers

 

James

 

PS - love the kit/model bashing :)

 

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Hiya, I've described the install before but won't hurt to write it again.

 

130Mah single cell 3.7v battery with UM connectors

http://www.micronradiocontrol.co.uk/lipo_1s.html


Rx41d-x-v5 DSM2/DSMX Micro Receiver with Bi-Directional ESC (pre-wired version)

http://www.micronradiocontrol.co.uk/rx_dt_land_v5.html#dt_rx41d_v5

 

UM battery extension lead chopped in half to give me a charging port.

http://www.micronradiocontrol.co.uk/conn_picoblade.html

 

Micro slide switch to turn it off/on (always better to charge it when it's off)

http://www.micronradiocontrol.co.uk/switch.html

 

My controller is a Tx22

http://www.micronradiocontrol.co.uk/tx_rail.html#tx22v2

 

The wiring is (obviously) the important thing to get right.

 

-Charging port and battery need to be permanently connected

-Battery and Rx need to have on/off switch in between them

-Rx and motor need to be connected the right way around

 

Edited by Corbs
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Thinking about finishing things off and putting accessories on this little loco. The mechanical lubricator seems a good idea and a common theme, as do the usual buckets, oil cans etc.

 

Not seen many toolboxes, unless this one on Redbourn 29 is one? Strange fixture on the end of it though.

 

FAI4030-(ZF-1810-45223-1-008).jpg

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2 hours ago, Corbs said:

Thinking about finishing things off and putting accessories on this little loco. The mechanical lubricator seems a good idea and a common theme, as do the usual buckets, oil cans etc.

 

Not seen many toolboxes, unless this one on Redbourn 29 is one? Strange fixture on the end of it though.

 

https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/uploads/monthly_2019_11/FAI4030-(ZF-1810-45223-1-008).jpg.1be059ad9fe0a3ee4b1657e8ac8658b9.jpg

I stand corrected about the depth of the buffer beams. This photo clearly shows them below the straight frames. I need to have another look at S112. When I converted it into a 50550 I used the deep option front buffer that came with the kit. The rear was left cu away with a normal buffer to clear the mechanical stoker. I believe that the current owner of S112 has restored the frames to tjeir full depth.

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i know im a bit late with this

 

 

48150 class list from http://www.leedsengine.info/leeds/locolist.asp


1849/1937  GKB


1873/1937  "Jessie"  Survivor
Llangollen Rly, Denbighs ex GKB


1874/1937  GKB
 
2077/1940  GKB


2123/1940  GKB


2261/1940  RTB


2262/1942  RTB


2376/1942  RTB


2377/1942  RTB


2687/1942  GKB


2841/1944  RTB later frames used as slag wagon bogies


3277/1945  RTB later frames used as slag wagon bogies


3709/1950  RTB later frames used as slag wagon bogies


3710/1951  RTB later frames used as slag wagon bogies


3812/1953  RTB later frames used as slag wagon bogies

 

3813/1953  RTB later frames used as slag wagon bogies

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4 hours ago, Corbs said:

Thinking about finishing things off and putting accessories on this little loco. The mechanical lubricator seems a good idea and a common theme, as do the usual buckets, oil cans etc.

 

Not seen many toolboxes, unless this one on Redbourn 29 is one? Strange fixture on the end of it though.

 

https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/uploads/monthly_2019_11/FAI4030-(ZF-1810-45223-1-008).jpg.1be059ad9fe0a3ee4b1657e8ac8658b9.jpg

Looks more like a battery box to me.

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Could well be, but is that an electric lamp on the front?

 

Just because it's a rainy Thursday, here's another test vid of it running on BPRC. I found that jerkiness in running was due to over-tightening the body-chassis screw.

 

 

 

Off the back of this, I'm planning to pull my 50550 apart and convert that one to RC as well.

Edited by Corbs
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5 minutes ago, Corbs said:

Could well be, but is that an electric lamp on the front?

 

Just because it's a rainy Thursday, here's another test vid of it running on BPRC. I found that jerkiness in running was due to over-tightening the body-chassis screw.

 

 

 

Off the back of this, I'm planning to pull my 50550 apart and convert that one to RC as well.

For anyone new to kit or scratchbuilding an over tightened screw is often the cause of poor running. Even in 7mm it is often easy to induce a twist in a previously straight chassis and should be the starting point for investigation.

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3 generations of 18” Hunslet. The J94 is another donor in the queue, either for an oil-fired 50550, another 48150, or unspecified 3rd choice. Maybe mix the two and make an oil fired 48150 using all the bits from the S&L example, including top mounted springs?

76247B2E-224D-4937-9757-D9A72F5E8BF9.jpeg.706b9c699a20aa930a8b3511525d5620.jpeg

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A little bit of grime added over the weekend, just a 'smoke' wash and then lacquer over the top. I also cleaned up the YEC loco as the weathering had deteriorated a bit.

 

803455040_Screenshot2019-11-18at17_16_33.png.26dfad7f080a4f897b4db17c096ed35f.png

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They look well together, Corbs. With my layout having some crazy gradients, resulting in the need to stuff every loco with as much lead as possible, I'm always wondering how much these things weigh and how much they can pull now that a lot of space is taken up with the R/C gear.

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The battery is the main thing. I managed to keep quite a lot of the standard weight in the 48150, but in hindsight I should have chucked it and just used lead sheet inside the saddle tank.

 

In fact, just remembered I had some scales.

 

The 48150 is 176g

The YEC is 126g

The Par Bagnall is 72g even with its diecast body

 

The 50550 (not yet converted, original weight intact) is 188g by comparison

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