Corbs 8,198 Posted November 10, 2019 Hacked some holes in the chassis block so I could fit proper 3-links. The battery (attached to the loco body) sits in the large space in the centre of the chassis. Posing here with its stablemate, YEC Type 1 No.16. Added a driver to the cab as well as refitting the brake handle and reverser. The wires inside have been painted black. Have to say I'm really pleased with how this has turned out, it's been on my mind for a while and I'm really glad I took the plunge and did it. The YEC is due a chimney upgrade. 7 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
doilum 524 Posted November 10, 2019 38 minutes ago, Corbs said: Hacked some holes in the chassis block so I could fit proper 3-links. The battery (attached to the loco body) sits in the large space in the centre of the chassis. Posing here with its stablemate, YEC Type 1 No.16. Added a driver to the cab as well as refitting the brake handle and reverser. The wires inside have been painted black. Have to say I'm really pleased with how this has turned out, it's been on my mind for a while and I'm really glad I took the plunge and did it. The YEC is due a chimney upgrade. Excellent work. I have to keep reminding myself that you are working in a "junior" scale. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Corbs 8,198 Posted November 10, 2019 To be honest sometimes I think it makes it easier, 4mm/00 for me is in the sweet spot between being too fiddly and so large that any errors are magnified! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Down_Under 149 Posted November 11, 2019 The radio control is very clever. Do you have a list of parts that you used, or a link to another post/blog that describes what you have been using? Cheers James PS - love the kit/model bashing Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Corbs 8,198 Posted November 11, 2019 (edited) Hiya, I've described the install before but won't hurt to write it again. 130Mah single cell 3.7v battery with UM connectors http://www.micronradiocontrol.co.uk/lipo_1s.html Rx41d-x-v5 DSM2/DSMX Micro Receiver with Bi-Directional ESC (pre-wired version) http://www.micronradiocontrol.co.uk/rx_dt_land_v5.html#dt_rx41d_v5 UM battery extension lead chopped in half to give me a charging port. http://www.micronradiocontrol.co.uk/conn_picoblade.html Micro slide switch to turn it off/on (always better to charge it when it's off) http://www.micronradiocontrol.co.uk/switch.html My controller is a Tx22 http://www.micronradiocontrol.co.uk/tx_rail.html#tx22v2 The wiring is (obviously) the important thing to get right. -Charging port and battery need to be permanently connected -Battery and Rx need to have on/off switch in between them -Rx and motor need to be connected the right way around Edited November 11, 2019 by Corbs 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Corbs 8,198 Posted November 13, 2019 Thinking about finishing things off and putting accessories on this little loco. The mechanical lubricator seems a good idea and a common theme, as do the usual buckets, oil cans etc. Not seen many toolboxes, unless this one on Redbourn 29 is one? Strange fixture on the end of it though. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
doilum 524 Posted November 13, 2019 2 hours ago, Corbs said: Thinking about finishing things off and putting accessories on this little loco. The mechanical lubricator seems a good idea and a common theme, as do the usual buckets, oil cans etc. Not seen many toolboxes, unless this one on Redbourn 29 is one? Strange fixture on the end of it though. I stand corrected about the depth of the buffer beams. This photo clearly shows them below the straight frames. I need to have another look at S112. When I converted it into a 50550 I used the deep option front buffer that came with the kit. The rear was left cu away with a normal buffer to clear the mechanical stoker. I believe that the current owner of S112 has restored the frames to tjeir full depth. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sir douglas 5,965 Posted November 13, 2019 i know im a bit late with this 48150 class list from http://www.leedsengine.info/leeds/locolist.asp 1849/1937 GKB 1873/1937 "Jessie" Survivor Llangollen Rly, Denbighs ex GKB 1874/1937 GKB 2077/1940 GKB 2123/1940 GKB 2261/1940 RTB 2262/1942 RTB 2376/1942 RTB 2377/1942 RTB 2687/1942 GKB 2841/1944 RTB later frames used as slag wagon bogies 3277/1945 RTB later frames used as slag wagon bogies 3709/1950 RTB later frames used as slag wagon bogies 3710/1951 RTB later frames used as slag wagon bogies 3812/1953 RTB later frames used as slag wagon bogies 3813/1953 RTB later frames used as slag wagon bogies 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Michael Edge 6,281 Posted November 13, 2019 4 hours ago, Corbs said: Thinking about finishing things off and putting accessories on this little loco. The mechanical lubricator seems a good idea and a common theme, as do the usual buckets, oil cans etc. Not seen many toolboxes, unless this one on Redbourn 29 is one? Strange fixture on the end of it though. Looks more like a battery box to me. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Corbs 8,198 Posted November 14, 2019 (edited) Could well be, but is that an electric lamp on the front? Just because it's a rainy Thursday, here's another test vid of it running on BPRC. I found that jerkiness in running was due to over-tightening the body-chassis screw. Off the back of this, I'm planning to pull my 50550 apart and convert that one to RC as well. Edited November 14, 2019 by Corbs 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
doilum 524 Posted November 14, 2019 5 minutes ago, Corbs said: Could well be, but is that an electric lamp on the front? Just because it's a rainy Thursday, here's another test vid of it running on BPRC. I found that jerkiness in running was due to over-tightening the body-chassis screw. Off the back of this, I'm planning to pull my 50550 apart and convert that one to RC as well. For anyone new to kit or scratchbuilding an over tightened screw is often the cause of poor running. Even in 7mm it is often easy to induce a twist in a previously straight chassis and should be the starting point for investigation. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Corbs 8,198 Posted November 15, 2019 3 generations of 18” Hunslet. The J94 is another donor in the queue, either for an oil-fired 50550, another 48150, or unspecified 3rd choice. Maybe mix the two and make an oil fired 48150 using all the bits from the S&L example, including top mounted springs? 7 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Corbs 8,198 Posted November 18, 2019 A little bit of grime added over the weekend, just a 'smoke' wash and then lacquer over the top. I also cleaned up the YEC loco as the weathering had deteriorated a bit. 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ruston 15,255 Posted November 18, 2019 They look well together, Corbs. With my layout having some crazy gradients, resulting in the need to stuff every loco with as much lead as possible, I'm always wondering how much these things weigh and how much they can pull now that a lot of space is taken up with the R/C gear. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Corbs 8,198 Posted November 18, 2019 The battery is the main thing. I managed to keep quite a lot of the standard weight in the 48150, but in hindsight I should have chucked it and just used lead sheet inside the saddle tank. In fact, just remembered I had some scales. The 48150 is 176g The YEC is 126g The Par Bagnall is 72g even with its diecast body The 50550 (not yet converted, original weight intact) is 188g by comparison 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
