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Bachmann B1


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I have a large quantity of the earlier Bachmann split chassis B1's and V2's. These are excellent models but suffer from various malaises!

One of the B1's has the 'bowed' driving wheels and goes down the track like a kangaroo! Bachmann will supply isolators but not new wheels. How have other modellers overcome this problem? The models are too good to bin and are worth spending a little on to get going again; replacement with the new Bachmann or Hornby models in not an option!

Split isolators can be repaired with new ones (which Bachmann can supply for the moment) - just have to be careful with the quartering.

Even though these models are some 20+ years old it is a shame that spares are not available (You can still get new spares for 50+ year old Hornby Dublo!!)

Comments please!! Thank you.

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For the bowed wheel inserts, if you are unable to get the crank pins out, I would cut the plastic insert nearest the crank pin to remove it from the wheels, scrape round the inner rim of the wheels to see if you can make slightly extra space and then glue the insert back again clamping it hard in the middle with a bulldog clip or similar. These models nearly all seem to go like this. I am usually able to reuse the plastic axles after glueing baxck together.

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Taking the bowed wheelface inserts out fixes that problem. If you wish, a little trimming round the edges and gluing back in place flat with Evostick.

 

I ran mine sufficiently that the plating wore off the tyres and the stub axles and chassis locations, at which point they are 'all used up' as mechanisms because the conduction is so poor. Salvaged all the useful recycleable parts, scrapped the rest.

 

Learning point. Don't buy mechanisms based on effectively unique parts. Wheels force fitted on steel axles, that's the way to do it for steam models, and there will be alternative spares even if the manufacturer's spares dry up.

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At one point I had 8 or 9 of the old split axle B1s.   All had been weathered, crew added, real coal etc.  I now have just 3 of the old split chassis ones running and one of those is going to give up any day.  I did look at building new chassis for the failed ones but it was expensive and time consuming.  My solution has been to wait for used versions of the new chassis show up on the various sites, buy them and install under the old bodies.  Couple of minor mods but basically it is a plug and play switch.  The only real problem is that the new chassis are much lighter and I have to add nearly 200gms to get them to pull 10 coach trains.  However, the new chassis is much better made and should last me out. 

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Hi all,

I do not have any B1's, But have 5x4mt's with the same wheel problem. I just took the inserts out and painted the wheels the correct colour. The one thing I did do was cut out the balance weights and reglue them back onto the wheels to make them look right. I have 2 V2's and they seem to be ok so far.

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I found fitting pickups between the chassis halves and the backs of the driving wheels makes a big difference to these locos.   The stub axles don't make good contact with the chassis especially if the axles are lubricated,  This leads to arcing which heats the wheels and softens the axle spacers and also the plastic wheel inserts.   I have now done  Bachmann B1, LN, Std 5, 03 and 4MT with big improvements in running and so far much improved reliability. Oddly enough one 4MT has not been altered and runs really well but I keep expecting it to fail.  My son has a Bachmann Manor, bought "New" last year which lost a driving wheel while running in about 15 minutes out of the box,

 

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4 hours ago, DavidCBroad said:

...Oddly enough one 4MT has not been altered and runs really well but I keep expecting it to fail...

I have had examples of Bachmann split chassis which easily outlasted all their kin, and am confident I know the why of the principal manufacturing variability that caused this. The plating thickness on the conducting contact surfaces. Some would have copper already showing through on the tyres within a year of going into service =short life, because that's when the conductivity problems start. The copper was only a thin 'flash' on the mazak, applied so the nickel plating adhered well. The nickel was there as the wearing surface, and if there wasn't enough of it...

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  • 2 weeks later...

Firstly many thanks to those who have replied to my query regarding Bachmann B1's. Gluing did not work; does not take to the plastic inserts even when clamped up. So my loco is fit for just standing in a siding.......or is it? I re-assembled the chassis without the plastic driving wheel inserts - you have to look closely to see that they are missing but hey - runs a treat! I could go a step further and fit etched driving wheel balance weights and then you would have to look even closer! So next year my 61010 will go off to Grimy Times in Warrington and come back with a new identity - 61215 perhaps!

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Hi Cliff,

I re-glued the plastic balance weights back on with superglue. They have not fallen off yet. Infact one engine where I glues one of the weights slightly off line I had a hell of a job to get it back off to re-glue it back in the right place.

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