Backdating a BR Pannier Tank

[Guest WM183]

Hi all!

I have a Bachmann Pannier tank in the first BR scheme, no 9736. The loco runs wonderfully and was DCC equipped when I got it for a very reasonable 40 pounds. I'd like to repaint it in the wartime black GWR scheme, however, and the only issue is the "number plate" on the smokebox front. This is cast on, and I am not sure if I am good enough with a hobby knife and filler putty to make a good job of removing it. I add smokebox darts to my engines, but the molded bits involved there are much smaller (and somewhat hidden behind the new darts!)

Any advice?

[Barclay]

If Bachman make a GWR version then, if the number plate is indeed cast on there's a good chance the smokebox door is a separate item. If that's the case can it be removed completely and replaced by a Bachman spare or a cast white metal door? (I've not seen the model so this is only supposition!)

[Hal Nail]

Agree that there is potential to make a huge mess removing it with the top hinge in that area!

 

You could keep an eye out for a non-runner or body only, then get your money back selling your BR body after you've got one.

Edited November 21, 2019 by Hal Nail

[The Johnster]

You might be able to keep the numberplate, depending on your period; locos painted in austerity black between 1942 and VE day in 1945 remained in that livery until repainted at their next major overhaul.  I have a converted (by which I mean I've removed the vacuum bags) Bachmann 8750, 6762, on my layout; this loco was built in 1943 and supplied new to Tondu shed where it remained until 1954, presumably retaining black GWR livery and having BR smokebox number and shedcode plates fitted at the shed in 1948, the smokebox and cabside number plates being backed in red paint.

 

If your period does not allow this dodge, my experience of removing the top feed from a Bachmann 57xx to create 5707, another Tondu loco, may be of use.  This is a faffy job which involves cutting off the top feed cover and removing the feed pipes, which run along the top of the pannier tanks and down the sides just ahead of the cab, to disappear into the tangle of pipework beneath the tanks.  I took the main lump, the cover, off with a sharp knife which I also used to pare away the feed pipes.  It leaves an 'orrible mess, which I attacked with whatever tool I could get at it best with, a combination of files and minidrill sanding attachments.  Finish off with minidrill nylon brush and polishers.  Even this doesn't give a perfect finish, but a coat of paint will, so the model must be repainted.  I also had to fill some scratches and errors with milliput, so a repaint was necessary anyway.

 

For your smokebox number plate, assuming you can't replace the smokebox door, hold the loco body smokebox up in a vice with padding on the jaws, firmly as you can without distorting the plastic.  You'll have to use the ends of the vice jaws to avoid the handrail.  Attacking the job from the underside of the number plate, with a fresh Exacto blade, pare as much of the plate away from the smokebox door as you can, holding the knife at an angle to match the slope of the smokebox door.  This should leave you with a residual rectangular shape which can then be pared down further, but when you've gone as far as you can with this, it's time to get the minidrill sanders out.  Best one for this job is probably a cylindrical shaped one held at right angles to the work; hold it as firmly and steadily as you can and apply pressure gently, as it will try to roll off the work.  

 

When you've got as much material away as you can with this, polish the mark out and fill any depressions with milliput, then repaint the smokebox door.  It doesn't matter if the finish does not perfectly match the rest of the loco, as in reality smokebox doors got very hot and needed repainting at the shed between overhauls; they were almost never the exact same finish as the rest of the loco once they were in service.

 

If you want to be a perfectionist and model Midland, LMS, or BR steam with smokebox number plates, this can be done to all your RTR locos, and brackets made up to hold separate piece number plates with daylight visible behind them, but I'm happy to accept the compromise on my layout and even when I have separate smokebox number plates,  I simply glue 'em on and don't bother about the brackets and the daylight,,,

Edited November 22, 2019 by The Johnster