00 gauge fun. Getting the Peco PL-20 isolating switch into the track - easy or not?

[Riseburn Simon]

Hi,

 

This probably sounds like a really basic question, and I thought my problem would be solved by a quick Google and then a quick search of RMweb.  But no, not happening!

 

I bought some Peco PL-20 isolating switches today, brought them home and took one out of its packet.  And then my mind went into shutdown mode.  How do I get the things into the track?  Each isolator switch has 2 metal slots but all the track I have (Peco 00 gauge code 100 - a combination of streamline and settrack/Hornby) only contains under-rail gaps spaced for the Hornby power clip.

 

I know I need to cut one of the rails to break the circuit, and that's an easy job.  But actually getting the switches to clip into the track?  A mind-boggling exercise!

 

I have a couple of the isolating track sections that has slots in between the rail and the sleeper, and they have a couple of slots that are custom spaced specially for the switches.  

 

This is one of those weird things that should be ridiculously easy, but is turning out to be a massive puzzle!  Do I need to somehow rout out a couple of holes/slots in the track so I can insert the isolator switches?  Or, as I suspect, am I overthinking the problem and the answer is ridiculously straightforward?

[Sol]

What do the instructions say?  The gap between webbing & the rail bottom should take the metal prongs as it is designed for Peco code 100 track   but if in doubt, contact Peco direct.

 

Now others may know but is sleeper spacing for Peco Streamline & Setrack the same?

 

 

[Riseburn Simon]

38 minutes ago, Sol said:

What do the instructions say?  The gap between webbing & the rail bottom should take the metal prongs as it is designed for Peco code 100 track   but if in doubt, contact Peco direct.

 

Now others may know but is sleeper spacing for Peco Streamline & Setrack the same?

 

 

Hi Sol,

 

The instructions only say (in relation to this issue) "clip the switch directly to the rail so that the brass clips are one each side of the gap." 

I've just tried pushing it in harder to see if it'll go in.  The only piece of track that took it was one where the rail has come loose.

The sleeper spacing looks the same to me.  Having said that, it's well past midnight here, so I think a good night's sleep might solve my mental block!

Edited November 19, 2019 by Riseburn Simon

[Riseburn Simon]

Well,after various people being stumped by this (including experienced modellers), I'm finally making progress.  

 

Thanks the North East Model Centre at Chester Moor (which I've been a regular customer at since April this year - no other connection), we worked out the newer Peco settrack small straights have the slots already in place at the required spacing.  But only on one side;  if you look at the other side, there's a couple of slots for the power clip, but nothing for the isolator.

 

The latest Peco catalogue lists the PL-20 isolator as suitable for streamline, yet I haven't yet found any slots for it in any of the points, crossings or flexitrack I own (most of which is, admittedly nigh on 20 years old).  So the next task is to get some current flexi track to likewise check it out.

 

Nobody can find any mention of this in any instructions, so maybe I should feed this back to Peco?  As the isolator switches are a brilliant solution for people like me whose wiring and soldering skills are lacking!  For example, they are the perfect (albeit unsightly to some people) solution for quickly installing and running single/double slips on a DC layout.  If they pushed that more in their catalogue/website/instructions, I'm willing to bet they'd sell a lot more; especially to novices like me!

Edited November 20, 2019 by Riseburn Simon

[Chimer]

Late to this party and never used the item, but how thick are those prongs?  The gap between the sleeper web and my code 100 Streamline track is at least 1mm, probably 1.5 which I'd have thought should have been enough.  And every 4th sleeper the web is cut to allow the flexing, I don't suppose two adjacent gaps match the prong spacing?

[Sturminster_Newton]

Mount the switch remote at the base board edge.

 

Unless this is a 'tear down' line like my Wilton and Axminster.

 

Carefully solder, or use a spade terminal crimp; two wires to the switch tangs and one either side of the gap.

 

Keep the gap in the rails open with a little piece of plastic card glued to the rail and sleeper web.

 

(Anything relying on a friction fit for electrical continuity will fail eventually.)

 

Job done.