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regme

Monocure3D Rapid on a Anycubic Photon

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Hi

 

I've bought a bottle of the Rapid Grey and been searching for some settings on where to start.  With the Anycubic Green (that came with the machine) I have been using the following with good results

Layer thickness     0.05

Nom Exposure      10sec

Off Time                  3sec

Bottom Exposure  50sec

Bottom Layer         4

Post Cure               15min

 

From the Monocure Website

Layer thickness     0.05

Nom Exposure      11sec

Off Time                  6.5sec

Bottom Exposure  60sec

Bottom Layer         4

 

The off time is double, the reason is the viscosity it takes longer for the resin to get back under the build plate for the next layer, according to Monocure3D.

 

Are there any thoughts on this?

 

Cheers

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According to the Photon Community Spreadsheet those figure don't look bad so give them a go. Most people seem to have more than 4 bottom layers (5-8).

 

As far as I am aware the Off Time does not impact the Photon. It physically takes 6.5secs for the machine to reposition the buld plate represented by the Off Time. A setting of 3sec will still take the machine 6.5secs. The Off Time is used to calculate the remaining print time. You may find with the Anycubic Green that the actual print time took longer than the machine calculation showed.

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agreed,  the times look ok for the grey resin. Not used it myself but i've seen other posts around the same values.

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I  use  monocure  grey, gunmetal  and white (its manufactured in Sydney so I can drop into their factory and pick it up) and have found 11 seconds exposure for a layer thickness of 0.04 (my usual setting) works for me.  0,05 would need a little longer, 

 

The bottom layer settings seems a bit on the low side,  Iv'e had many issues with prints not sticking to the plate - not just Monocure,  the green anycubic was the same so I use 6 layers at 110 secs. Probably a little bit overkill but at least I get a printed thing, rather than  just a FEP to scrape off.

 

Their flex stuff is good too -  for mixing in with other resins to make a less brittle item.

Edited by monkeysarefun

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Ambient temperature can have a big effect on prints sticking to the build plate. This time of year I always warm the build plate, resin and resin vat on a warm radiator before starting a print off.

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Agree completely - the galvanised iron shed where the printer has been banished to due to smell  ranges from -2 or 3C in winter  to around 50 degrees. I had issues in winter, hoping now the summer is here I can back off the base layers a bit.

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The first two prints failed, had a combination of light and heavy supports, which I used for the anycubic green resin, the light supports didn't print where they joined the model.  Changed them all to heavy and everything printed but the holes for the bearings, and screw didn't come out right any where there was a small hole was partially filled in.  Initial impression the Anycubic green gives a better print.

 

Below are the comparisons on the side frame where the bolster joins there is a gab on the green but not on the monocure and the holes go all the way through on the green

 

I'm hoping that I don't to change the model just to suit the resin.

 

Anyway these were the settings

                                      First          Last

Layer thickness          0.05           0.05

Nom Exposure          12sec         15

Off Time                     6.5sec        6.5

Bottom Exposure     60sec         80

Bottom Layer            4                  8

Post Cure                  30min         30

side-framew.jpg

supports.jpg

bolster.jpg

Edited by regme
photos added

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I've found that items printed with the monocure grey seem to have a slightly 'nylony' look in the uncured state compared to the Anycubic green and the details seem a little less crisp. Think of the old Airfix figures that were produced in that strange soft plastic, compared to the plastic used in their kits. It paints ok once cured though and the paint doesn't peel off, unlike those airfix figures.

 

P1210390.JPG.e3e84e50adde3d2fbde35173b327e2f5.JPG

 

 

I've also had it occasionally leave 'flash' style webbing on the prints and a thin layer of cured resin on the FEP afterwards , unrelated to the model -  ie the print printed successfully but when cleaning out the vat afterwards found a thin 'skin' of resin in places. 

 

I tend to use the Monocure because it is often on special here and I can pick it up direct from the factory. Speaking of which, I've found that Anycubic resin prices can fluctuate wildy so its worth keeping your eye on their ebay shop, for instance at the moment I can get 2 litres of green delivered for AU $127, whereas last time I looked it was $65 for 500ml...

 

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I was thinking that the monocure didn't print detail as well as the anycubic green.  I thought that maybe after shaking the monocure you would have to leave it for an 1 hour, so all the air bubbles had a chance to dissapate that way you won't get air pockets under the build plate.

 

I'll see how it goes for structual elements.

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Decided to have another go and printed a few test prints from their site, I started 9sec exposure I got thisMono_09A.JPG.07ebd2f607947703efb4c6cf5ea5755d.JPG

 

 

Then I just increased the base exposure to 4 at 100sec and got this

 

Mono_9sec_100sec_baseA.JPG.88f578dbd13fc951b55905694feed49c.JPG

 

Then I increased the layer exposure to 10, 11 and 12 sec and got the same squash effect as the first print.  Any ideas on why it would squash like that.

 

Cheers

 

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