regme Posted November 21, 2019 Share Posted November 21, 2019 Hi I've bought a bottle of the Rapid Grey and been searching for some settings on where to start. With the Anycubic Green (that came with the machine) I have been using the following with good results Layer thickness 0.05 Nom Exposure 10sec Off Time 3sec Bottom Exposure 50sec Bottom Layer 4 Post Cure 15min From the Monocure Website Layer thickness 0.05 Nom Exposure 11sec Off Time 6.5sec Bottom Exposure 60sec Bottom Layer 4 The off time is double, the reason is the viscosity it takes longer for the resin to get back under the build plate for the next layer, according to Monocure3D. Are there any thoughts on this? Cheers Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeTrice Posted November 21, 2019 Share Posted November 21, 2019 According to the Photon Community Spreadsheet those figure don't look bad so give them a go. Most people seem to have more than 4 bottom layers (5-8). As far as I am aware the Off Time does not impact the Photon. It physically takes 6.5secs for the machine to reposition the buld plate represented by the Off Time. A setting of 3sec will still take the machine 6.5secs. The Off Time is used to calculate the remaining print time. You may find with the Anycubic Green that the actual print time took longer than the machine calculation showed. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdr Posted November 21, 2019 Share Posted November 21, 2019 agreed, the times look ok for the grey resin. Not used it myself but i've seen other posts around the same values. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeysarefun Posted November 21, 2019 Share Posted November 21, 2019 (edited) I use monocure grey, gunmetal and white (its manufactured in Sydney so I can drop into their factory and pick it up) and have found 11 seconds exposure for a layer thickness of 0.04 (my usual setting) works for me. 0,05 would need a little longer, The bottom layer settings seems a bit on the low side, Iv'e had many issues with prints not sticking to the plate - not just Monocure, the green anycubic was the same so I use 6 layers at 110 secs. Probably a little bit overkill but at least I get a printed thing, rather than just a FEP to scrape off. Their flex stuff is good too - for mixing in with other resins to make a less brittle item. Edited November 21, 2019 by monkeysarefun Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeTrice Posted November 21, 2019 Share Posted November 21, 2019 Ambient temperature can have a big effect on prints sticking to the build plate. This time of year I always warm the build plate, resin and resin vat on a warm radiator before starting a print off. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeysarefun Posted November 21, 2019 Share Posted November 21, 2019 Agree completely - the galvanised iron shed where the printer has been banished to due to smell ranges from -2 or 3C in winter to around 50 degrees. I had issues in winter, hoping now the summer is here I can back off the base layers a bit. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
regme Posted November 22, 2019 Author Share Posted November 22, 2019 (edited) The first two prints failed, had a combination of light and heavy supports, which I used for the anycubic green resin, the light supports didn't print where they joined the model. Changed them all to heavy and everything printed but the holes for the bearings, and screw didn't come out right any where there was a small hole was partially filled in. Initial impression the Anycubic green gives a better print. Below are the comparisons on the side frame where the bolster joins there is a gab on the green but not on the monocure and the holes go all the way through on the green I'm hoping that I don't to change the model just to suit the resin. Anyway these were the settings First Last Layer thickness 0.05 0.05 Nom Exposure 12sec 15 Off Time 6.5sec 6.5 Bottom Exposure 60sec 80 Bottom Layer 4 8 Post Cure 30min 30 Edited November 23, 2019 by regme photos added Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeysarefun Posted November 27, 2019 Share Posted November 27, 2019 I've found that items printed with the monocure grey seem to have a slightly 'nylony' look in the uncured state compared to the Anycubic green and the details seem a little less crisp. Think of the old Airfix figures that were produced in that strange soft plastic, compared to the plastic used in their kits. It paints ok once cured though and the paint doesn't peel off, unlike those airfix figures. I've also had it occasionally leave 'flash' style webbing on the prints and a thin layer of cured resin on the FEP afterwards , unrelated to the model - ie the print printed successfully but when cleaning out the vat afterwards found a thin 'skin' of resin in places. I tend to use the Monocure because it is often on special here and I can pick it up direct from the factory. Speaking of which, I've found that Anycubic resin prices can fluctuate wildy so its worth keeping your eye on their ebay shop, for instance at the moment I can get 2 litres of green delivered for AU $127, whereas last time I looked it was $65 for 500ml... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
regme Posted November 28, 2019 Author Share Posted November 28, 2019 I was thinking that the monocure didn't print detail as well as the anycubic green. I thought that maybe after shaking the monocure you would have to leave it for an 1 hour, so all the air bubbles had a chance to dissapate that way you won't get air pockets under the build plate. I'll see how it goes for structual elements. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
regme Posted February 21, 2020 Author Share Posted February 21, 2020 Decided to have another go and printed a few test prints from their site, I started 9sec exposure I got this Then I just increased the base exposure to 4 at 100sec and got this Then I increased the layer exposure to 10, 11 and 12 sec and got the same squash effect as the first print. Any ideas on why it would squash like that. Cheers Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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