O gauge 3 link Couplings

[paulbb]

Has anyone come up with a quick and reliable method or tool for coupling up wagons and locos fitted with  3 link couplings? Uncoupling is of course much easier.

I have tried using tweezers, bits of wire with hooks, and even considered using HO/OO Kadees-which dont look right of course and have buffer locking problems too.

The wagons being coupled are the usual mix of BR types from Dapol, Parkside and so on that are unmodified. Does anyone make magnetic links for them?

I really want to keep the look and the actions produced by these wagons during shunting, as nothing really beats 3 links for looking prototypical.

I am sure there are other people as cack handed and short tempered out there just like me struggling to cope!

[brossard]

I made these which I used at a show.  They worked great for me:

 

 

Pretty simple.  Find a torch with an easy to use thumb switch (I have some with a very stiff thumb switch - you don't want that).  Look for a torch that is tubular.   Then a length of dowel and some steel wire bent into a hook.  I used electrical tape to attach the dowel to the torch.  The torch is important because the couplings are hard to see otherwise.

 

It does take practice but your muscle memory should kick in.

 

John

 

[Happy Hippo]

Gordon Gravett in his first book on O gauge modelling refers to an Oakhill uncoupling hook which was a slotted brass bar at the end of a shunter's pole.

 

No illustrations available, and I can't access the book at present as I'm away from home.

 

I'd suggest if GG refers to it then it has some merit.

[birdseyecircus]

I use bent wire taped to a small torch but I prefer to use a magnetic screw driver that holds against the side of the link allowing it to drop on the hook.

I find the bent wire hook often gets caught in the various pipe work on rolling stock.

 

The hooks on Heljan couplings are awful. The hook almost closes the gap preventing Dapol and parkside stock coupling up,hence why I snipped the tip off mine allowing a wider gap. 

 

Paul

[paulbb]

Many thanks to all the above, most helpful. I will give each of them a try. Where do you get 'magnetic screw drivers from, Birdseyecircus? Is it just an ordinary one  that has been magnetised?

[sir douglas]

i use a dental hook tool that you can get from suppliers like Squires and the end is re-bent a bit like a real shunters hook which actually works better than a plain hook

Edited November 28, 2019 by sir douglas

[Nearholmer]

I think the Oakhill device was the same as one I’ve got for 16mm/ft: a length of bar, probably 1.5mm x 8mm would do for 0, with a slot cut 3/4 of the way across it, the slot being a gnat’s wider than the thickness of the wire/rod from which the coupling links are formed.

 

The device is used to pick-up the middle of the three links, by sliding the link into the slot.

 

It is definitely less frustrating than an ordinary hook, but in 0 might still be a bit frustrating for anyone not highly dexterous.

[birdseyecircus]

2 hours ago, paulbb said:

Many thanks to all the above, most helpful. I will give each of them a try. Where do you get 'magnetic screw drivers from, Birdseyecircus? Is it just an ordinary one  that has been magnetised?

It's only the tip of the screwdriver that's magnetic. Mine was from a discount store but similar ones available from wilko, b&q etc.

 

Paul

[F-UnitMad]

41 minutes ago, Nearholmer said:

I think the Oakhill device was the same as one I’ve got for 16mm/ft: a length of bar, probably 1.5mm x 8mm would do for 0, with a slot cut 3/4 of the way across it, the slot being a gnat’s wider than the thickness of the wire/rod from which the coupling links are formed.

 

The device is used to pick-up the middle of the three links, by sliding the link into the slot.

 

It is definitely less frustrating than an ordinary hook, but in 0 might still be a bit frustrating for anyone not highly dexterous.

I saw a coupling device like that being used on Dalry Road at Telford Guildex one year. It was very effective.

[RexAshton]

If you've been prepared to consider Kaydees have you thought of Dingham Couplings? They fit the existing 3 link coupling buffer beam slot, give the movement between stock associated with loose couplings but uncouple magnetically. Once chemically blackened they are very unobtrusive. No connection, just a satisfied user.

[paulbb]

Does anyone have any images of the Oakhill uncoupling hook ? Thanks RexAshton but the Dingham couplings dont really do it for me...although I will revisit the concept.

[Happy Hippo]

Try this, pic of the illustration from Gordon's book. 

Edited November 30, 2019 by Happy Hippo

[brossard]

I remember seeing pics of that on a thread here somewhere.  I did give it a try but, as the sketch indicates, you need to be at coupling level to use it because you have to twist the link.  Maybe I misunderstood.

 

Anyway the hook on a stick, shown above, does work for me.  I think I will try to refine the shape of the hooks to be more like the prototype shunters pole hook.

 

John

[sir douglas]

it only works if the handle is horizontal, no good if you can only get to the couplings from an angle or above because then you cant slot onto the middle link but a hook can work from any angle

[Happy Hippo]

It helps if the pole is bent in a step shape and you can then put it over the buffer and lower the paddle into place.

[Ruston]

On 27/11/2019 at 20:53, paulbb said:

Has anyone come up with a quick and reliable method or tool for coupling up wagons and locos fitted with  3 link couplings? Uncoupling is of course much easier.

I have tried using tweezers, bits of wire with hooks, and even considered using HO/OO Kadees-which dont look right of course and have buffer locking problems too.

The wagons being coupled are the usual mix of BR types from Dapol, Parkside and so on that are unmodified. Does anyone make magnetic links for them?

I really want to keep the look and the actions produced by these wagons during shunting, as nothing really beats 3 links for looking prototypical.

I am sure there are other people as cack handed and short tempered out there just like me struggling to cope!

I use a tiny magnet on the end of a length of 1mm brass wire that is attached to a very small LED torch. The end link on each coupling is made from iron wire (Slaters sell steel links if you want them ready made). That's it - simple, reliable, no faffing and no costly and unsightly couplings.