drgj Posted December 1, 2019 Share Posted December 1, 2019 (edited) Running on DC. On one end the red tail light isn't working. This loco hadn't been run for a few years and wasn't very smooth so I lubricated it including the motor bearings. For the latter I had to remove the black plastic chassis from the block. I was careful not to strain the switch wires but could I have done something at this point? There are a few wires coming from the switch. The contacts between the body and chassis seem in order. I took off the circuit board in the nose and it seems ok. Can I test it with 12v? are there resistors on the circuit board itself? I'm sure that I would have noticed if the led wasn't working when I first bought it. Also how do the side frames unclip from the bogies? I would like to clean the pick ups. Dave Edited December 1, 2019 by drgj Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
drgj Posted December 2, 2019 Author Share Posted December 2, 2019 (edited) Well I managed to fix it. There was a wire loose on the switch pcb underneath. There are ten colour coded wires at this point. I ended up having to disconnect all ten from the main pcb to make enough room to solder the wire back on. I must have pulled on the wire when I was messing around lubricating the motor bearings. I managed to knock a small fitting off one bogie, of course . I bought this loco new (the only new one I have) but I prefer second hand because they are not usually perfect anyway. I don't feel so bad when a used loco falls to pieces. In the instructions it says to lubricate various points as in the diagram but there is no diagram of lubrication points that I can see. I couldn't see a way to lubricate the motor bearings without removing the chassis base. It was that that caused all my troubles. Dave Edited December 2, 2019 by drgj Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold MikeParkin65 Posted December 4, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 4, 2019 The Ivatt diesels have the 'indirect' pick up method also used on the Class 40 with wipers running on top of the wheel bearings rather than directly against the back of the wheel. I found that soldering on additional wipers to contact the wheel conventionally improved the running of mine considerably, especially over point work. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
drgj Posted December 4, 2019 Author Share Posted December 4, 2019 Thanks for that, Mike. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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