Zach's 7mm Workbench - Going Great Western, Back to Swindon

[brossard]

Now that looks really smart.  I almost want to get my loco kit out.

 

John

[nsl714]

Thanks John!

 

After a few weeks of attack with paint, a bowpen, and some decals, the O2 is now for all intents complete. The primer and varnish were aerosol, but the balance was brush painted. There's a few little spots I notice that need touched up, and the crew needs painted yet, but all the major items are complete on the engine itself.

 

 

 

 

More soon, hopefully back to something GWR.

 

-Zach

[nsl714]

After a brief break through the holidays, a number of items have arrived in the post which  allow me to continue on with some modelling. A few WEP vans and a Slaters Clerestory 3rd Brake are now in the queue to build, and I have a new toy to try out: a Midland Railway Centre Rivet Press. That will certainly be a great improvement over the awl I've been previously using.

 

 

Something else that came were a pair of etched number plates from Narrow Planet for my Dapol 4800 and 5700. They are now fully identified as 4836 and 5741 respectively. Some Modelu lamps, crews, and fire irons will be in their future, and then some weathering.

 

Finally, to follow up on the O2, a DCC sound decoder has been acquired, but I am waiting on a speaker to install that.

 

More soon, probably with the first WEP van.

 

-Zach

[nsl714]

I've poked at the first WEP van off and on this past week. The subject at hand is a Mica B. Assembly has been very straightforward so far, and the Rivet Press has been a godsend. Everything has gone together really well so far with minimal fuss. All the steps in the ends were a nice friction fit, allowing soldering from the back. Only once did I put something in the wrong spot (the label clip as evidences by the big solder splotch on the side of the body). It was relocated correctly (I think) to the solebar next to the numberplate. The roof was probably the more difficult part, as I don't have rolling bars yet. Compared to the Siphon F I did previously, which had a half etch roof that formed nicely in the hand, this is a full thickness sheet flat off the etch. A while struggling with a bottle/dowel and then a vice and rod for the edges got it close enough to push and tack solder into place. It wasn't without issue, as you can see from the photos it did slightly crease each side where the half etched lines start on the roof to help the sharp edge.

 

 

 

Overall it's been an enjoyable experience so far. I admit that I quite like these vans, and do hope to eventually accumulate quite a train of them, either on their own or as part of a general perishables train.

 

More soon as I keep poking at it.

 

-Zach

 

 

 

[Hal Nail]

Just a thought on the roof, as they were covered in material, I think, could a solution be to trim the brass to be a tight fitting support and cover with a false card overlay?

[34006]

Or maybe cover with tissue paper to simulate canvas?

Paint and weather to suit?

 

atb

Phil

[nsl714]

Both good suggestions there. I think I've seen the tissue canvas one done somewhere else before, and honestly I think I'm leaning toward that. I'll see what it looks like when construction is done (I think I can gently file a bit out of the crease without puncturing the roof) and go from there.

 

Thanks for the ideas!

-Zach

[Hal Nail]

5 hours ago, nsl714 said:

Both good suggestions there. I think I've seen the tissue canvas one done somewhere else before, and honestly I think I'm leaning toward that. I'll see what it looks like when construction is done (I think I can gently file a bit out of the crease without puncturing the roof) and go from there.

 

Thanks for the ideas!

-Zach

I'd normally use tissue - the thinking behind card was to purely to overcome the kinks in the brass you mentioned.

[Courtybella]

I’ve just found your thread, fantastic stuff I’ve always wanted to try a brass kit but it’s buying all the correct tools that out me off to be honest.

[Guest WM183]

On 05/02/2021 at 17:09, Courtybella said:

I’ve just found your thread, fantastic stuff I’ve always wanted to try a brass kit but it’s buying all the correct tools that out me off to be honest.

A good soldering station is something every modeller needs  and beyond that, the only tools required are ones you already own if you've built a plastic kit! I'm sure its more approachable than you think.

 

Amanda

[brossard]

On 05/02/2021 at 11:09, Courtybella said:

I’ve just found your thread, fantastic stuff I’ve always wanted to try a brass kit but it’s buying all the correct tools that out me off to be honest.

 

I agree with Amanda, you only need a high power soldering iron, like 80W, if you plan to assemble kits with really large areas.  I just built a pair of 62C NBR coaches using just my Weller 25W iron.  I would recommend getting some brass wool, I find that very effective at keeping the iron tip clean.  Gaugemaster or DCC Concepts 145C solder and acid free flux are also needed.  I would not be without my fiber pen for excess solder cleanup.

 

Connoisseur models are really good kits and get high marks - from me certainly and others.  Try something simple to start with, like an open wagon.

 

John

[Deano747]

Hi Zach

 

Like others, I've just found your thread. You've certainly made an impressive start in 7mm modelling and I will be following with interest. Keep up the good progress.

(GWR and LSWR/SR fan myself)

 

Regards, Deano.

[Guest WM183]

8 hours ago, brossard said:

 

Connoisseur models are really good kits and get high marks - from me certainly and others.  Try something simple to start with, like an open wagon.

 

John

 

I cannot speak highly enough of the quality of both the kits and the service. I am actually tempted to switch to LNER just so I can build some of his loco kits! 

I mean, an Atlantic tank and a nice 0-6-0 would be plenty of power for something East Anglia-ish... ahem.

 

 

[brossard]

Ha ha.  Yes, I have considered building one of Connoisseur's loco kits too.  There is not very much non GWR steam being produced by the RTR folks.

 

John

[nsl714]

Wow, I step away for a few days and I come back to a burst of activity! Many thanks to those who have discovered this thread and passed on good wishes, It is very much appreciated.

With regards to the Connoisseur kits, the work in all three pages here, as well as the testimonies by others should speak to their quality.

 

On 05/02/2021 at 11:09, Courtybella said:

I’ve just found your thread, fantastic stuff I’ve always wanted to try a brass kit but it’s buying all the correct tools that out me off to be honest.

 

John had the right idea, that you don't need much to get started building, and can keep adding on gradually to your tool supply kit. I've done all these brass kits with a Weller 40W iron and 145 degree solder (70 degree and a separate iron tip for the whitemetal). Jim McGeown of Connoisseur has a great Q&A section on his website, and among other items he addresses what tools are necessary, and which may be nice to have. Question 12 if you're interested here: http://www.jimmcgeown.com/Questions.html   I also recommend starting simple with whatever you choose. The Loriot on page 1 of this thread was my choice, and I don't regret it.

 

With respect to the WEP Mica, it soldiers on. All the brasswork on the body is done, and the running gear has been started. Contrary to the instructions, I'm going to put off the whitemetal bits as late as practical for less risk of evaporating them with the hot(ter) iron.

 

 

Thanks and more soon.

Zach

[brossard]

Zach, I like what you are doing.  As for whitemetal, while I have successfully soldered WM, it always gives me palpitations.  I tend to use CA for attaching these on my kits and so far it has worked well.  I use Zap A Gap CA in the green bottle (Medium).

 

John

[nsl714]

Thanks John. I’ve soldered 80%-90% of the white metal pieces on what I’ve built before, and I’ve only evaporated one or two bits (some more fragile pieces on the siphon). There was even one piece in the cab of the O2 where I was particularly brave and melted/melded it into the brass heated with the iron on high with no ill effects. All these pieces will be attempted to solder first before resorting to glue. I’m just giving as little chance as possible for the iron set on high to accidentally vaporize anything in the meantime. 

 

Zach

[brossard]

I think you can get away with relatively high temp for WM.  When I have done it, I used 300C on my iron, instead of my usual 350C.  If you set the temp too low, the solder will take a longer time to melt and bond.  The trick is to not linger.

 

John

[nsl714]

After working on and off on it, I finished the major construction on the Mica. As it happens, I took what you suggested John, and the ice hatches were applied with a relatively hot iron.

 

 

 

On to the second WEP van, a Fruit C. I'll probably spend a bit of time cleaning the Mica, but will probably paint the two at the same time. I do probably need to address the creases in the roof as has been discussed earlier.

 

More soon,

Zach

[nsl714]

Things have been quiet recently, as Spring comes around. One item on my bench occupying some time has been a Terry Russell 7mm Tram, particularly a London Transport E/3. It is mostly painted now, and I'll soon be able to assemble it.

 

 

One neat trick I figured out was to print a sample of seat fabric (courtesy of the London Transport Museum) at the proper scale, and then cut/glue it into place.

 

 

On the GWR front, I took the plunge and weathered my Dapol 5700 today, and I think it's come out alright. Some tweaking is needed, particularly adding more grime to the chassis. This was a black/brown wash, followed by a variety of powders in blacks and browns. Some real coal in the bunker and some spilled water on the tank (borrowed from Ade) finished it off. I still need to get some lamps and crew.

 

 

 

 

More soon,

-Zach

 

[nsl714]

The London Transport distraction is now complete. The car has been finished as E/3 1946 signed for Route 33 through the Kingsway Subway, as it appeared in the early 1950's.

 

 

 

 

There's a number of GWR items that now need some attention. A Peco Toad, another WEP van, a Slaters Clerestory Brake 3rd, weathering the 48xx and Autocoaches, lots to do!

 

More soon,

-Zach

 

Edited December 8, 2022 by nsl714
Reinstating Photos

[brossard]

Great looking tram.  A lot of ornamentation that you have captured very well I think.

 

As for the 57XX weathering, you don't mention using an airbrush.  When weathering, I start with the airbrush to get some dirt and grime on the chassis and on top of the loco where soot and ash would settle.  I use acrylic earth (or similar) and black applied in a light coat.

 

I use powders as well to highlight dirty parts of the body.

 

I recently learned about black enamel wash (Tamiya Panel Lining) which does a great job. 

 

Here's a loco that I weathered for a friend:

 

 

This is from Minerva and is excellent.  I've been using figures from ModelU for crew.  A bit dear but IMO the best.

 

BTW, for carriage figures I use those from Omen, a bit less expensive than ModelU but very good.

 

John

[nsl714]

Hi John,

 

That's a neat looking Pannier, the weathering is quite effective. You would be correct in noting that I didn't mention an air brush, mainly because I don't have one yet. I started with a brown/black acrylic wash on my Pannier, then moved to combinations of black, grey, and brown powders to finish. I feel like the undercarriage of mine needs a bit more, particularly around the brake blocks and rods. At some point I do hope to get an airbrush, and will incorporate that into weathering.

 

 

In other news a Peco Toad has materialized on my desk (absolutely dwarfed by the tram). It's assembled and will be painted this weekend. The WEP Fruit C has also begun, as evidenced below.

 

 

 

 

More soon,

-Zach

Edited December 8, 2022 by nsl714
Reinstating Photos

[brossard]

Hi Zach, I find an airbrush essential for weathering but there are techniques out there for getting that done without one.

 

My friend has a Peco Toad kit (Not Parkside) and as I looked at it, I was disappointed that there was very little detail for the brake gear.  I recommended he talk to Peco about buying in the brake gear frets for the Parkside Toad.  He did that I believe and has the parts.  No progress on the build though.

 

Happy building.

 

John

[nsl714]

An airbrush is definitely on the list. In fact I have someone building a spray booth for one at the moment, so hopefully I'll add one to the arsenal soonish.

 

I did notice the lack of brake gear on the Toad outside of brake shoes. At the moment I'm going to leave it be, but am not above trying to add it later if I get brave.

 

Thanks,
Zach