1967 and all that, Bournemouth Electrification - Class 74 DCkits/Heljan

[lapford34102]

First a bit of a health warning as this is likely to quickly degenerate into a confusing ramble!

My shopping plans for the Warley weekend got torpedoed pretty quickly when I came across the Southern Way’s special  50 Years of the Bournemouth Electrification and soon after stumbled across cheap(ish) Dapol  JB (class 73/1 for our younger listeners) in pre-tops “blue”. The first I justified on the grounds that money on books is rarely wasted and the second as it seemed a good idea at the time – for some reason!

 

The Dapol ED has many qualities, moulting large number of bits to mention one, and is a step change over the preceding Lima/Hornby effort though I know one modeller sufficiently expert in the class who’s not convinced.  It’ll do me though. Back in 67 the idea of any sort of model  ED, RTR or otherwise, was a pipedream. However it was done in the Model Railway Constructor by I’m fairly sure Chris Leigh, sadly I cannot find my copy which I know I have somewhere. The ED was a massively rebuilt AL1 electric along with a 4TC from 4 Hornby Dublo SD tinplate sided coaches and very convincing it was. If Mr Leigh reads this or someone can point him here then perhaps he’d confirm I’m right and maybe there’s a few photo’s still around.  Today things are rather different and all it takes is going through the ritual of holding your phone in one hand, your credit card in the other and answering the magic question “and the three number on the back please?”.

Back to Dapol’s effort their struggles with colours are well documented and the early ED’s are no exception. Dapol can probably be forgiven in this case as a  certain urban mythology has built up around what colour they were.  Conflicting and incorrect information  even appears in print tending  to prolong the life of an idea that should have been stuffed full of garlic, skewered with a big pointy stick and deeply buried ages ago.  All the ED’s appeared in Rail Blue, grey stripe or no grey stripe.

So looking at it a repaint was in order as the blue Dapol had used was very nice but never graced an ED plus the body moulding has the battery box clips which were a later addition and so had to go. Fortunately most of the bits needing to come off did so easily plus, unintentionally, the radiator grill. Bizarrely though the engine room windows had enough glue around them to complete a large kit so it was out with the masking fluid which was also used on the grey window surround and grills. The roof was tape masked but it’s prudent to  put  some paper over the roof grills first. With the loco masked up it was out with the Precision Rail Blue. As an aside I’m not that happy with some contemporary offerings for Rail Blue and still think the Humbrol’s HR135 from 1967 is the best  though  next to impossible to find though unopened and still usable tins do turn up.

 

 

 

With the body resprayed and definitely looking a better colour I’ve also painted the translucent fibreglass engine room panels. Never totally happy with my choice of colour for these but they’re pretty noticeable on many classes and worth doing in my view. So this is where things are with a few ragged edges and a bit of overspray to sort out.

It’ll be on to the details and renumbering next.

Stu  - with apologies for the mis-matched pictures, still getting my head around this system works

Edited April 29, 2020 by lapford34102

[Fat Controller]

It was a combination of Alan Williams and Chris (Dibber25)  who wrote the article. It came out during the 'Economy' period, when half the magazine was on uncoated paper.

[Re6/6]

5 minutes ago, Fat Controller said:

It was a combination of Alan Williams and Chris (Dibber25)  who wrote the article. It came out during the 'Economy' period, when half the magazine was on uncoated paper.

 

Ah, happy days! I started the 4-CEP using hacked about Kitmaster green Mk1s from the Alan Williams article.

 

It was never completed but did look the part!

[lapford34102]

Hi,

Thanks to everyone for reacting to this and to Brian for clearing up the who did what question. Actually now found a '68 MRC with an airport scene on the front with an OO  4VEP in view.

On 12/12/2019 at 08:30, Re6/6 said:

Ah, happy days! I started the 4-CEP using hacked about Kitmaster green Mk1s from the Alan Williams article.

Yes, those were the days, wonder if Mr Mortimore ever tried this one ?

So it's on to the numbering etc. As this is the 21st Century I could get one of the bespoke transfer makes to do it all for me but I suppose I'm "old school" and rather enjoy doing it myself. I've also go a large sheaf of rather old Pressfix/HMRS BR Blue sheets lying around. They've lost most of their "stick" but quite useable in an alternative universe waterslide sort of way. These sheets are extraordinarily comprehensive and remarkable value and cover loco's, units plus passenger and NPCCS stock. They've even got the early, smaller coaching stock font used on Blue and B/Grey stock.

https://hmrs.org.uk/transfers/br-blue-era-loco-and-coach-insignia-to-circa-1978-150308.html

There is one problem when numbering a loco whatever you use, that is getting it spaced and level. My trick is to cut some strips of masking tape or the sticky bit of a post-it and use that as a guide.

 

The strips in place. You'll usually find a window, grill, handrail, etc somewhere handy to help you get things level. I didn't use a vertical one this time but they are useful to space the number from some obvious feature.

 

 

The numbers coming together. Early pre-TOPS numbering usually had a distinct space between the D or E and the first numeral so it's worth looking at contemporary photos. You do not need to be gnats-kneecap accurate when renumbering but DO try to be consistent. I was a little concerned that the Pressfix font was a bit heavy - this aspect does seem to vary with my sheets - but looking at Plate 19 in The Power of the Electro-Diesels it looks good. I chose E6017 for the number as this was one of the group, 07 to 28, allocated to Eastleigh. There's a shot of it in The Power book hauling a rake of Bulleid stock!

 

 

All numbered up and a Railtec arrow to complete the job. The Railtec double arrow doesn't have a carrier film, neither do the numbers so a preparatory gloss coat avoided here.  So a coat of varnish tomorrow to seal everything in then the fun begins.

 

Cheers

Stu

Stu

[lapford34102]

Hi,

Firstly something I forgot to put in earlier was a link to this:  https://www.hattons.co.uk/newsdetail.aspx?id=400

A nice and concise guide to the 73's with some interesting photos. The 4-COR in the first photo looks pretty washed out whilst the KA  (33) is surely ex-works to match the JB. It's worth noting the ED is about 5 years old at this point so probably due a works visit.

 

All back together now with chassis given a coat of grime and the body mildly weathered though the more photos I look at of early grey roofed versions the more I realise quite how unsurprisingly grubby they got so it'll probably get a bit more attention.

 

 

Doing the final stages was a bit fraught with jumper cables falling off and not being noticed till later resulting in a panicked scrabble on the floor plus I managed to knock out one of the roof grills, a bit of an |"Oh Bother" moment.  Re-attached with some runny superglue though the designer was hardly extravagant with the mating surfaces. "Oh Bother 2" - just noticed I've missed a bit of the grey circuit board ! I've not done any bufferbeam work yet as I've nothing to run it on - yet - so not sure what system; tension/Kaydee/something else as that will limit what can go on. Was it worth it doing the repaint -  definitely and if I stumbled across another one at a reasonable price would like an early grey stripe version. This isn't the end of ED's though as I've a DCkits  HB (74) part started.

 

Whilst in the frame of mind and having a fair amount of time to myself whilst SWMBO is out and about doing good works I've dug these out.

 

Both need a little work so they'll be up next. Just looking at that photo I realise I've done something to the back KB that I've not done on 6520.

Answers on the back of a large cheque to.......!

Cheers

Stu

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[lapford34102]

Hi,

One difference between the Heljan Mk1 and Mk2 Cromptons was the bogie sideframes. The Mk2 version is certainly better as for one thing itcorrects an error on the Mk1 in that the central springs are inset from the sideframe which they weren't on the first attempt. However it is an easy fix on the early version.

 

Perhaps not that obvious but on the left the original sideframe, modified on the right. All that's needed is a sharp knife, file, plastic glue preferably  something like Mek-pak and some 1.5mm x 1.5mm square plastic rod.

 

With the springs removed the rod, cut roughly to fit across the sideframe mounts can be secured inside the frame. It's conveniently the right depth so the springs are simply glued on but now correctly set back.

 

As for the two KB's one has had the weathering re-done and re-numbered to a D prefix, the other the sideframes modified.

 

 

And finally

 

A bit odd this, the height difference between the two.  A quick check with stock from other makes seems to indicate that the 33 is wrong, something I've never noticed before. I know the buffer beams on the Crompton model can get a bit loose so something to check first. Incidentally what seems a little known fact. TC fitted Cromptons had  larger buffers at 24" as opposed to the 22" ones on the ordinary one. The class was normally referred to as a ""TC fitted Crompton" or simply as either a fitted or unfiitted Crompton. I assume the nickname "bagpipe" came about later when they ventured further afield as then they had about as much Scottish connection as a stick of Bournemouth rock.

Cheers

Stu

 

 

 

[SRman]

I keep looking at the horrible blue on my Dapol E6007 (with the grey stripe), and wondering whether I should undertake a partial repaint, but it keeps going back into the "too hard" category. I did do remedial rewiring of the circuit board to get the lights working correctly, including independent cab lights. I also used a small amount of BR blue to paint out the edges of the over-wide yellow panels, with the small strips of BR blue at the corners being barely noticeable against the overall (wrong) blue body colour at normal viewing distance. I also gave the lemon yellow warning panels a couple of coats of varnish tinged with orange to darken the yellow. 

However, all of that does not correct the unsatisfactory overall blue. I will have to do something about it soon, and your model of E6017 has inspired me again.

[phil-b259]

2 hours ago, lapford34102 said:

The class was normally referred to as a ""TC fitted Crompton" or simply as either a fitted or unfiitted Crompton. I assume the nickname "bagpipe" came about later when they ventured further afield as then they had about as much Scottish connection as a stick of Bournemouth rock.

 

 

I understood the 'bagpipes' nickname was actually coined fairly early on in their careers - and had the basis that the high level jumpers fitted for push pull workings looked a bit like someone had stuck a few of the aforementioned Scottish instruments to each end rather than any suggestion the locos had any specific connection to Scotland.

 

For example Its the sort of thing I can imagine a Western region driver at Bristol saying when one turned up on inter regional workings - as compared to the flush and rather stylish front ends fitted to the Westerns or Hymeks

[lapford34102]

I will have to do something about it soon, and your model of E6017 has inspired me again.

SRMan, It’s a something of a pain to do but worth it, it does look a lot better.

 

I understood the 'bagpipes' nickname was actually coined fairly early on in their careers .................specific connection to Scotland.

Phil,The origin of the nickname is now likely lost in the mists of time and I’m sure Bristol drivers would have been far more polite.... !  One Weymouth driver took a look and asked who stuck an octopus or two on the front.

So to round off the Crompton bit a photo from the rebuilt Weymouth station taken in 86 when the their 20 year reign was about to end when the 3rd finally made it to the end of the line.

 

Things will get busy next week so for the moment a bit about shunters. There was obviously going to be a need for some shunters equipped with air brakes both for the TC’s and loco hauled stocked. The A/B’d  09’s are pretty well known but I never recall seeing one further west than Eastleigh during this time. For Bournemouth, Weymouth and the Tram line a handful of Class 12’s were equipped with air brakes – they never had train brakes before – and sent west in 68.  They seem to have been something of an ad-hoc solution keeping their green livery and in at least one case their original 3 link couplings. Whilst more than adequate power wise Weymouth crews did comment on the visibility running hood first down the tram. I look forward to the Heljan model as it gives an excuse to postpone converting an 08.

The 12’s were replaced by dual braked 03’s complete with high level pipes.

 

An 03 on the Tramway in 1972.

 

To model one I started with  the air braked version Bachmann 03. It’s not simply a case of adding the high level pipes. The air tanks are larger, marker lights were moved and handrails altered. If anyone is interested I can provide details but wrote up the work for RailExpress March 2017.   

 

 

Have a good Christmas break.

 

Stu

 

[steve1023]

Hi Stu. Great modelling. I wasn't born until 75 so missed this time period, but I find the Bournemouth line during this time period fascinating. I have the Rail Express article, which I had intended to copy but was put off because of the marker light alterations. 

 

I understand the recently released Bachmann class 03 (D2028) was allocated to Bournemouth around this time period so I was going to cheat and get that one. 

 

Oh for a time machine....

 

[Joseph_Pestell]

On 20/12/2019 at 22:30, lapford34102 said:

Hi,

One difference between the Heljan Mk1 and Mk2 Cromptons was the bogie sideframes. The Mk2 version is certainly better as for one thing itcorrects an error on the Mk1 in that the central springs are inset from the sideframe which they weren't on the first attempt. However it is an easy fix on the early version.

 

Perhaps not that obvious but on the left the original sideframe, modified on the right. All that's needed is a sharp knife, file, plastic glue preferably  something like Mek-pak and some 1.5mm x 1.5mm square plastic rod.

 

With the springs removed the rod, cut roughly to fit across the sideframe mounts can be secured inside the frame. It's conveniently the right depth so the springs are simply glued on but now correctly set back.

 

As for the two KB's one has had the weathering re-done and re-numbered to a D prefix, the other the sideframes modified.

 

 

And finally

 

A bit odd this, the height difference between the two.  A quick check with stock from other makes seems to indicate that the 33 is wrong, something I've never noticed before. I know the buffer beams on the Crompton model can get a bit loose so something to check first. Incidentally what seems a little known fact. TC fitted Cromptons had  larger buffers at 24" as opposed to the 22" ones on the ordinary one. The class was normally referred to as a ""TC fitted Crompton" or simply as either a fitted or unfiitted Crompton. I assume the nickname "bagpipe" came about later when they ventured further afield as then they had about as much Scottish connection as a stick of Bournemouth rock.

Cheers

Stu

 

 

 

 

Looks to me as though the 73 is lower at one end than the other. If you turn it round, it may be that it is the same height as the 33.

[lapford34102]

Class 74 – DC Kits/Heljan

This has been one of those projects that’s been pulled out, looked at, and put away again on and off ever since I got the kit way back in ????  I bought it complete with Black Beetle motor bogie but that side of things never convinced me. It came to the fore again after I spoke to Adam at the Tonbridge show. He’d done on and made a very good job of it using a modified Bacchy Warship mech. There’s some detail on his blog if you scroll down a bit.

https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blogs/blog/78-adams-part-time-modelling/

So having a bit (!) of time on my hands I dug it out and had a good look at how far I’d got, not far as it turned out. Then looking for something else stumbled on this.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Heljan-Replacement-Class-26-Chassis-OO-Gauge/283440784769?hash=item41fe632581:m:miNO6H71ePY9vw3QjdQNF-Q

 

Now the 74 has 10’6” bogie wheelbase and Adam had made virtually scratchbuilt sideframes to fit the correct sized Warship bogies. The DC kits sideframes  were scaled to fit the BB motor bogie at 10’ wheelbase, the same as a 26. A compromise but one I was prepared to live with as I doubt I’m up to  doing a scratchbuilt one.

The 74 has shorter distance between the bogies than a 26  so having got the chassis it was completely dismantled to shorten it. Relatively easy in theory but when you can’t find your hacksaw and only have a junior version around a bit of a game. So after a deal of huffing and puffing got the chassis block hacked, and I mean hacked, into 5 pieces with the 2 bogie mounts and motor mount and a couple of unwanted slabs. The results were rough but useable and hopefully no-one will get a close up.

The DC kits came with a fold-up brass chassis which was ideal for mounting the chassis sections on having first figured out where the bogie centres were.  These were then epoxied and clamped and left to go off. When dry the bogies were temporarily installed to check for height which was fine.

Whilst the expoxy was setting the bogie sideframes were given attention as they were quite basic and needed some cable runs and pipework. What I’ve done isn’t particularly accurate but I doubt there’s many around who can draw a 74’s sideframe from memory!. I’ve still got to figure out how to attach the sideframes to the bare Heljan bogie but will figure that later.

As for the body the moulded on handrails have been removed and the rather prominent roof panel ribs sanded back. The door openings have been rescribed  to make them more obvious and the cab ends marked out for the  MU pipes + cables, lamp irons and wipers.  There have been a few DC kits 74’s on  various forums and a recent one was on EMgauge 70’s by Kier Hardy for Hornsey Broadway. He used a Hornby 71  for the chassis but used the Hornby cabs on the DC centre section.

http://www.emgauge70s.co.uk/model_omwb156.html

http://www.emgauge70s.co.uk/model_omwb160.html

I was a bit surprised that he used the Hornby cabs but the reason he gave was that the  DC resin cabs “appear to have a much larger A-pillar section and are flatter across the front” Certainly looks like that in the photos but checking against my plan the DC kits cab side window  seems to be in the right place. To me it looks as if the body corners are too square so I’ve rounded them off more. I don’t think it addresses the curve of the cab front enough  but I think it does look better.

Another update as and when.

Stu

[jessy1692]

9 minutes ago, lapford34102 said:

Class 74 – DC Kits/Heljan

This has been one of those projects that’s been pulled out, looked at, and put away again on and off ever since I got the kit way back in ????  I bought it complete with Black Beetle motor bogie but that side of things never convinced me. It came to the fore again after I spoke to Adam at the Tonbridge show. He’d done on and made a very good job of it using a modified Bacchy Warship mech. There’s some detail on his blog if you scroll down a bit.

https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blogs/blog/78-adams-part-time-modelling/

So having a bit (!) of time on my hands I dug it out and had a good look at how far I’d got, not far as it turned out. Then looking for something else stumbled on this.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Heljan-Replacement-Class-26-Chassis-OO-Gauge/283440784769?hash=item41fe632581:m:miNO6H71ePY9vw3QjdQNF-Q

 

Now the 74 has 10’6” bogie wheelbase and Adam had made virtually scratchbuilt sideframes to fit the correct sized Warship bogies. The DC kits sideframes  were scaled to fit the BB motor bogie at 10’ wheelbase, the same as a 26. A compromise but one I was prepared to live with as I doubt I’m up to  doing a scratchbuilt one.

The 74 has shorter distance between the bogies than a 26  so having got the chassis it was completely dismantled to shorten it. Relatively easy in theory but when you can’t find your hacksaw and only have a junior version around a bit of a game. So after a deal of huffing and puffing got the chassis block hacked, and I mean hacked, into 5 pieces with the 2 bogie mounts and motor mount and a couple of unwanted slabs. The results were rough but useable and hopefully no-one will get a close up.

The DC kits came with a fold-up brass chassis which was ideal for mounting the chassis sections on having first figured out where the bogie centres were.  These were then epoxied and clamped and left to go off. When dry the bogies were temporarily installed to check for height which was fine.

Whilst the expoxy was setting the bogie sideframes were given attention as they were quite basic and needed some cable runs and pipework. What I’ve done isn’t particularly accurate but I doubt there’s many around who can draw a 74’s sideframe from memory!. I’ve still got to figure out how to attach the sideframes to the bare Heljan bogie but will figure that later.

As for the body the moulded on handrails have been removed and the rather prominent roof panel ribs sanded back. The door openings have been rescribed  to make them more obvious and the cab ends marked out for the  MU pipes + cables, lamp irons and wipers.  There have been a few DC kits 74’s on  various forums and a recent one was on EMgauge 70’s by Kier Hardy for Hornsey Broadway. He used a Hornby 71  for the chassis but used the Hornby cabs on the DC centre section.

http://www.emgauge70s.co.uk/model_omwb156.html

http://www.emgauge70s.co.uk/model_omwb160.html

I was a bit surprised that he used the Hornby cabs but the reason he gave was that the  DC resin cabs “appear to have a much larger A-pillar section and are flatter across the front” Certainly looks like that in the photos but checking against my plan the DC kits cab side window  seems to be in the right place. To me it looks as if the body corners are too square so I’ve rounded them off more. I don’t think it addresses the curve of the cab front enough  but I think it does look better.

Another update as and when.

Stu

How weird, i was looking at a 26 chassis just last night for my 74 build whenever i get back to my bench, will be watching with interest.

Top modelling

Cheers

James

Edited April 29, 2020 by jessy1692

[lapford34102]

Hi,

Well things were going SO well. Then I put the chassis all together and gave it a decent test. Well I would have but it would only go in one direction. Turn it rouns and it would go in the opposite direction but not the other.  After checking up various blind alleys the penny, or rather a large bagful of loose change, finally dropped. Wheels shorting out on the brass subframe.  I then took a couple of steps back and checked a 33 chassis and realised I’d not allowed  enough for the bogie swing and that Heljan had put recesses in the casting to allow for this. Contemplating some mods to subframe a rather dark thought surfaced and that was sideframe  to body clearance. Virtually none as it turned out so this wasn’t going to work. Put to one side, do something else for a bit – a Parkside BY as it happens – and have a think.

Apart from the wheel swing issue the casting needed to be lower. At some point inspiration, or more probably the blindingly obvious occurred. Don’t put the casting on the subframe, put it in it. So a casting shape hole was cut in the subframe. Fortunately Heljan have allowed a small rebate for the cosmetic plastic underframe so I could leave a mm or so at the bottom for additional strength.

Looks pretty rough but solved the problem. Tested the chassis with sideframes though some assorted trackwork including a Setrack curved point so happy with that. Then got on with getting the body sorted and this where I’ve got to, a coat of primer on ready for painting.

From this angle the front does look too flat, a  point commented on by some. I think the primer doesn't do it any favours and hope  getting some colour on it will make it less obvious.

Cheers

Stu

 

[Southernman46]

Bit late but ISTR a Hymek chassis is the right wheelbase for a 74 

[lapford34102]

2 hours ago, Southernman46 said:

Bit late but ISTR a Hymek chassis is the right wheelbase for a 74

That's right but the kit's resin sideframes are scaled for a 10' rather than a 10'6" wheelbase probably because it was easier to source that size RTR power unit. I didn't fancy, or think I could, scratch a new sideframe as some have done. Alternative is to look for a decently priced 71 somewhere.

Cheers

Stu

[lapford34102]

Hi,

Some progress on the body. Now sprayed up and numbered. Not too onerous as I could do the yellow  ends and “fibreglass” roof panels at the same time.  The roof panels are quite distinctive on a number of classes and to me painting them some shade of grey never looks quite right. I use a couple of Tamiya colours, deck tan and IJN gray/green.  As an aside we get quite heated discussions over whether the shade of a particular model is “correct”. These are playground spats compared to the fights over what the colour, called Ame-Iro, Zero fighters actually was.

However these panels  often get weathered into obscurity and looking at 74 photos it appears they were no exception though roof shoots seem next to non-existent.  But whatever class you’re doing it’s worth trying to find an overhead view to see if they are a feature. With the ends  and panels masked, nothing too complicated here, a coat of Rail Blue. Lastly black for the grills and bufferbeams.  One job worth doing is painting the inside edges of the windows as this does disguise the thickness of the resin body. Lastly numbers and arrows from the HMRS pressfix sheet.

Windows and handrails next.

Stu

[lapford34102]

Hi,

Been a busy few days which is something of a novelty. Have made some progress and as the weather was quite nice even did some al-fresco modelling. Even took the cd player out with me but only to show the neighbours they aren't the only ones with a poor taste in music.

Windows and handrails.  The kit comes with a set of very flimsy vac-formed windows that are quite a good fit  but have that characteristic corner typical of vac-forms.  I went the long way round and cut he windows from clear plastic sheet. The headcode, cab side and engine room windows are straightforward but the cab screens took a few goes to get 4 passable ones. The glazing is fixed in with Kleer which seems to work well.

The handrails are, I think, nickel silver wire. I used that to avoid painting them. I might have been better off using brass as the cab front/side were far from easy and I'm not overly happy with them though they look OK from normal viewing distance. I think using brass might have been a tad easier. Cab interiors were carved up  from spare Heljan 33 ones that were to hand. Not accurate but there's not a lot visible. This gave me somewhere to pop a couple of crew figues, again not that visible but they're there. A bit of weathering - and a smudge of weathering powder under the grill that needs wiping off I see - and we're getting there.

No couplings or beam detail yet till i decide what to use.  I'll give myself 7/10 for this. If I ever did another there are a number of things I'd do differently  or in a different order but I'm not sure that's likely. But I have a "Big ED" and I'll take that.

 

This  is something of a collection that might get a home at the moment and a Class 12 0-6-0 would be a necessary addition as they were the first air braked shunters in the area. I could wait and hope the Heljan one makes a timely arrival or I could do an EMgauge70's and convert an 08. A handful of  W.R. Brush Type 4's were used until the 74's arrived. so that's another project. Easy option a nice 2 tone green Bacchy and a simple renumber, difficult option a cheap Limby 47 that would need a hatchet job to backdate but that might be more fun.

 

Thanks for looking

Stu