Track rubbers

[34theletterbetweenB&D]

9 hours ago, Pete the Elaner said:

...CMX applies a soft cloth dampened with a cleaning fluid. What is wrong with that?

If cleaning in a narrow tunnel far too small to get my hand in to, what alternatives are there?

The CMX works well beyond doubt.

 

So does a large block of salvaged lead glued onto piece of salvaged hardboard, and used likewise as a cleaning drag. The difference is that I didn't spend any money to speak of, a very crucial point in favour to a dyed in the wool meanie like myself!

[Robert Stokes]

21 hours ago, The Johnster said:

It is, I contend, the only thing that hardboard is any use for...

 

Not in my opinion. It is very good for making curved backscenes for the corners of layouts. Sorry for going off topic.

 

Robert

[spikey]

And while we're on about track cleaning ...

 

[smokebox]

They really should use a Class 50 for that job. 

[Pete the Elaner]

7 hours ago, 34theletterbetweenB&D said:

The CMX works well beyond doubt.

 

So does a large block of salvaged lead glued onto piece of salvaged hardboard, and used likewise as a cleaning drag. The difference is that I didn't spend any money to speak of, a very crucial point in favour to a dyed in the wool meanie like myself!

On an open layout I would agree.

 

Mine is in a cutting, with tunnels so small that trains look like they won't fit (which is entirely accurate for the area), so my hand has no chance. The scenery does come apart but that it is a bit of a pain & thankfully I don't have many derailments.

I also plan to re-build it as a more modern version of the same location which will have OLE. I had OLE on a previous layout & no matter how careful I was, I occasionally snagged my hand or sleeve on something. Sometimes it just sprang back but on other occasions, it caused damage.

A cleaning vehicle such as the CMX easily passes through the tunnels & under the OLE.

[Right Away]

I only resort to a track rubber to remove paint from the rail head of newly laid track or if something stubborn (eg glue) finds its way there, followed immediately by a vacuum cleaner.  

For normal cleaning (SR 3rd rail territory here), a piece of non fluffy cotton dipped in IPA and wrapped over the end of a length of Plastruct which is cut at 45° and a notch cut on the end. The notch can guide the stick along the rail next to the conductor rail without disturbing the third rail ; it's also handy around pointwork. See pic - the taped end is so I can find the thing easily when needed!

 

Edited December 15, 2019 by Right Away

[Pete the Elaner]

5 hours ago, Right Away said:

 

For normal cleaning (SR 3rd rail territory here), a piece of non fluffy cotton dipped in IPA and wrapped over the end of a length of Plastruct which is cut at 45° and a notch cut on the end.

3rd rail is a bit of a pain.

A cheat is to lay it at rail height, but whether or not this is acceptable is a matter of personal preference.

[cravensdmufan]

As the topic seems to have moved to include other methods of rail cleaning, may I recommend the KPF Zeller wagon?

 

I purchased one at Warley from KPF Z direct a few years ago and found it to be excellent.  A cheaper alternative to the CMX with the added benefit that it doesn't require fluid.

 

The wagons are now available from Ten Commandments.  (No connection with either the manufacturer or supplier) https://tencommandmentsmodels.co.uk/product/track-cleaning-wagon/  Current shown as "sold out" but only temporarily I suspect.

 

And reviewed here: https://www.railwaymagazinemodelling.co.uk/838/whats-in-the-shops-simple-track-cleaning-in-n-and-ooho-gauge/

 

A couple of my own photos:

 

Edited December 15, 2019 by cravensdmufan
Additional wording

[Pete the Elaner]

34 minutes ago, cravensdmufan said:

As the topic seems to have moved to include other methods of rail cleaning, may I recommend the KPF Zeller wagon?

 

I purchased one at Warley from KPF Z direct a few years ago and found it to excellent.  A cheaper alternative to the CMX with the added benefit that it doesn't require fluid.

 

The wagons are now available from Ten Commandments.  (No connection with either the manufacturer or supplier) https://tencommandmentsmodels.co.uk/product/track-cleaning-wagon/  Current shown as "sold out" but only temporarily I suspect.

 

And reviewed here: https://www.railwaymagazinemodelling.co.uk/838/whats-in-the-shops-simple-track-cleaning-in-n-and-ooho-gauge/

 

A couple of my own photos:

 

The CMX can run dry too. Why run it dry if you have paid (lots of) extra for the ability to run it wet?

I agree that the KPF also looks like a good product for hard to reach tracks.

 

[ejstubbs]

Another possible alternative is the Lanarkshire Models and Supplies track cleaner kits:

 

http://www.lanarkshiremodels.com/lanarkshiremodelsandsupplieswebsite_036.htm

 

Can actually be quite discreet, tucked under a brake van where the ballast box should be (assuming the brake van is correct for your layout).

[spikey]

27 minutes ago, ejstubbs said:

http://www.lanarkshiremodels.com/lanarkshiremodelsandsupplieswebsite_036.htm

 

Can actually be quite discreet, tucked under a brake van where the ballast box should be (assuming the brake van is correct for your layout).

 

Indeed, and in my experience works well enough used dry.  I have though found that if I add IPA, that seems to lubricate the roller/J-cloth assembly sufficiently for it to rotate freely i.e. it eliminates the drag required to produce an effective wiping action.

[dasatcopthorne]

I think there are two possible situations here.

 

1. Rail with some oxidisation on it (typically Nickle Silver type) after being ignored for some time, needs a bit of a heavier clean to polish it.

2. Rail that may be 'clean' in general but have deposits on it caused by micro arching needs less of a clean.

 

Never use a Peco rubber as it leaves bits of itself on the track and will need hoovering. It also leave micro scratched on the rail head.

 

You may find that you need two grades of cleaner. Two rubbers or a rubber and a cloth/IPA.

 

Our Club uses 'Garryflex' blocks. Pick a medium grit one and an extra fine one. Say 240 + 400 grit.

 

These are easily found on Google or Squires and Proops.

 

One you have used the 400 one then a wipe with rag and IPA is often enough.

 

Dave