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Makers of 26"radius curves, code 100 ho, without ballast suggestions please? 


flockandroll
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I hope this is the best part of the forum to post.

My son would like to add another circle of track to our occasional dinning room layout. Due to the literal "table top" nature, using flex-track is not really possible. 

So I am looking for code 100 set track to form an outer circuit to go with our existing Peco R4 curves (571mm) and medium streamline points. I am quite happy to cut down the length of track pieces to get them to fit. The radius probably needs to be between 622mm & 638mm (if less I could add small straights) 

I seem to have eliminated European set track, so now I am considering American track. About which I know almost nothing... 

Starting with A for Atlas. Is their 24 inch radius actually 610mm to the track centre? 

Any other suggestions please? 

I am in the UK, so track needs to be reasonably easy to obtain (that bay place perhaps?) 

Thanks 

(edited to change title) 

 

Edited by flockandroll
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6 hours ago, flockandroll said:

Actually a mix of 24 and 26 inch radius curves would do it... so far I can't find any make of 26 inch curve without built-in ballast... 

 

Would it be possible to remove the ballast?  Bachmann produce 26" radius - https://shop.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=258_366_367&products_id=2470&zenid=f8c73lovkc0kon8m3cht3mlit0

 

The photographs aren't all that clear, but it looks as though there is a clip that clips the ballast sections together, with separate fish-plates to hold the track / rails together.  I'm wondering if these could be separated.  I'm guessing that the inclusion of the ballast layer is to make it more durable for those with a table-top set up who are constantly making and breaking up the track plan.  For those with a more permanent setup, flexi-track would be the most obvious step up, but I can see why this may not be in your case.

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It seems that EZ ballast CAN be removed but it is a right faff (you even have to sand them down afterwards)... 

So I have bought Shinohara 24" curves, will try using with short straights (26" seemingly unavailable at all but one Canadian supplier where it is very expensive and only 11 in stock when you need 12 for a circle). 

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I would have used a larger radius (28"?) as transition curves and  then completed the circle/oval with the 24" radius.

 

Alternatively flexible track stuck to a paper/card base (You don't want to lay track directly on the table (SWMBO disapproval is assured!)).  Pre-curve it to approximately the correct radius or it will try to straighten out.

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I'm actually just off to my workshop to test cut some slotted curved bases (25.5" radius) to hold rail for making up a couple of hidden return loops. The 160482077_basesforhiddenloops.jpg.dd4158136c654279c525b84b2cff49c1.jpg

 

drawing above copyright Andy reichert

 

The slots will be shallow but the rail can be fixed by glue and few spikes.  These are 30 degree sections. Someone over there could make the bases up for very little cost. Shipping from here would be add about $30 of you can't find a local source.

 

Andy

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It's been difficult to get anything apart from 24" and then 30" (but only in a box of twelve to make a circle!) (see 

) I have ordered a few Roco very large radius curves to maybe use as transition curves. 

I did consider going down the route of sticking flex-track to something, but didn't know if it would work with a thin enough thing! 

My son meanwhile keeps asking for American diesels and The Daylight (4479 is it?) with slight diversions to British Rail blue and German steam locomotives! 

 

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Il Grifone, do you think paper would be strong enough? I was thinking it would have to be thin plasticard? 

 

Andy R, that's an interesting idea: might be a another method to getting track set in concrete or cobbles? Would need a track gauge though. 

 

Just remembered I actually have a box of phospher bronze flex-track I bought maybe 30 years ago! So maybe I can experiment. 

 

Thanks 

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Paper should be strong enough or perhaps thin cardboard. The Rail needs to curved to the required radius, so that the paper is just for final location. Make sure the curve extends to the end of the rails to avoid dog-legs. My layout manages with just the cork underlay and a few pins in the really sharp curves (2nd radius (17¼") as I have a long narrow room). A generous radius like 26" shouldn't need fixing. Obviously slight movement takes place, which is easily corrected. One day I'll have to glue it and ballast....

 

An SP GS-4 Daylight is something I want....  https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=SP+GS-4+DAYLIGHT

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18 hours ago, flockandroll said:

Il Grifone, do you think paper would be strong enough? I was thinking it would have to be thin plasticard? 

 

Andy R, that's an interesting idea: might be a another method to getting track set in concrete or cobbles? Would need a track gauge though. 

 

Just remembered I actually have a box of phospher bronze flex-track I bought maybe 30 years ago! So maybe I can experiment. 

 

Thanks 

 

You wouldn't need a track gauge. The slots are cut to fit the exact width of the rail base and the proper gauge apart.  But that is made for hidden track. Only the base is in the slot. The rest of the rail is standing almost full height.

 

I've already done the paved track versions in setts (aka cobbles) as below.

 

1000951534_cobble5800.jpg.a93ac314d6280b203a61139321c386ee.jpg

 

Andy

 

 

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