WaysideWorks Posted December 28, 2019 Share Posted December 28, 2019 Hello! I have a Hornby 0-4-0 class D industrial, one of those cheapey ones. It runs fine in reverse, but when I put it in forward it sort of "wobbles". As in it goes slightly slower and faster every other turn of the wheels. I think it has to do with the connecting rods, but it could be something else. Can someone help? TIA. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium SR71 Posted December 28, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 28, 2019 It might take a few questions to get to an answer but as a start, has it done this since you had it or is it a new fault? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCB Posted December 29, 2019 Share Posted December 29, 2019 (edited) A bent connecting rod could be an issue but the tyres seldom stay put on these awful non see through wheels. check the wheels to ensure the tyres run concentrically. Otherwise these mechanisms are a great example of low cost, low quality large profit margin rubbish which Hornby inflicts on unsuspecting young enthusiasts. I have cut the disc out of the middle of the tyre on the lathe and refitted the tyre to improve these mechs but to be honest its a waste of time with plastic bearings and stupid 200 mph gearing. The 1960s Polly / Nellie/ Connie with the X04 motor is vastly superior especially if fitted with Romford wheels and gears as mine was before I stole the chassis for a scratch built body which was actually much worse than the original . The Wrenn R1 0-6-0 is also a good chassis for an 0-4-0 if you take a hacksaw to it. Edited December 29, 2019 by DavidCBroad Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Il Grifone Posted December 29, 2019 Share Posted December 29, 2019 Try removing the coupling rods (don't loose the screws! - they are available on eBay, but tend to be pricey!). If she now runs OK, there could be a quartering problem*. If not it could be a loose tyre as already mentioned or wear/crud in the bearings. A complete replacement should be quite reasonable on eBay. * From the description this does sound probable. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RexAshton Posted December 29, 2019 Share Posted December 29, 2019 Wear in the crankpin holes and too much side play in the axles can be an issue with any 4 coupled loco especially as the OP says the problem is only evident in one direction. Is the problem showing up when the driven axle is leading or trailing i.e. pulling the loco or pushing it? If it's when pushing it could point to slop or sideplay but also as mentioned above, damage to one or more coupling/ connecting rods. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
WaysideWorks Posted December 29, 2019 Author Share Posted December 29, 2019 It has no traction tyres, and bending the rods straight didn't do anything. It happens when the driving axle is in front, so smokebox first. There's little to none sideplay, so that's not it either. And it has done this since running it twice. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cypherman Posted December 29, 2019 Share Posted December 29, 2019 Quote Hi, The little or no sideplay could be the problem Hi, The lack sideplay could be an issue. You need to check the wheels as to whether they are binding. Also check the gauge of the wheels to see if they are the same. I am not sure but I think the wheels on your engine are just a pressure fit so it might be possible to move the wheels out a little to free up the movement. I am sure some one else here could give you more details of how to correct this problem. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium SR71 Posted December 30, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 30, 2019 10 hours ago, WaysideWorks said: It has no traction tyres, and bending the rods straight didn't do anything. It happens when the driving axle is in front, so smokebox first. There's little to none sideplay, so that's not it either. And it has done this since running it twice. It sounds most like quartering to me, as others have suggested. If you set the chassis so that the connecting rod on one side is level and passes through the centerline of both axles turn the engine around and look at the other side. The connecting rod attachment points on the other side should both be at exactly the same point - either straight up or down and at 90 degrees to the first side. If not this is likely to be part of the issue of not all of it. If you can maybe post some pictures square on of the sides top and bottom? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
WaysideWorks Posted December 30, 2019 Author Share Posted December 30, 2019 Here are some pictures! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Il Grifone Posted December 30, 2019 Share Posted December 30, 2019 (edited) It looks out of quarter to me, but it could be just the angle of the photos. Edited December 31, 2019 by Il Grifone Removal of nonsense Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium SR71 Posted December 30, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 30, 2019 Also the back to back on the undriven axle looks much tighter than the driven. Even if this isn't the cause of the current problem it will cause derailing once you do get it running. It could be these are pinching the chassis. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium kevinlms Posted December 30, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 30, 2019 Top left wheel in photo 3 looks crooked. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
WaysideWorks Posted December 30, 2019 Author Share Posted December 30, 2019 7 hours ago, kevinlms said: Top left wheel in photo 3 looks crooked. If that would have been the case wouldn't it be wobbly in forward and reverse? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
WaysideWorks Posted December 30, 2019 Author Share Posted December 30, 2019 8 hours ago, SR71 said: Also the back to back on the undriven axle looks much tighter than the driven. Even if this isn't the cause of the current problem it will cause derailing once you do get it running. It could be these are pinching the chassis. How do I loosen these? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Johnster Posted December 31, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 31, 2019 You will need a back to back gauge to set them to. The wheels can be levered along the axle with a screwdriver between wheel and chassis block. Take them out over gauge, as equally spaced from the centre point of the axle as you can, and then remove the wheelset so that you can set and square them against the B2B gauge. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Il Grifone Posted December 31, 2019 Share Posted December 31, 2019 (edited) Don't touch the back to back unless you have a digital or, better IMHO, vernier caliper or a back to back gauge. Check that the wheels are flush with the axles and square to the axle. I did notice that the wheel looks crooked but put it down to the photo angle. This will certainly cause problems. Unclip the motor and get the chassis running smoothly then refit it. Edited December 31, 2019 by Il Grifone Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium SR71 Posted December 31, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 31, 2019 The Johnster suggests the proper way but I'm going to guess that you might not have access to the tools and they would probably cost more than you paid for the loco. That being the case pick a wagon you know runs well. Hold it so the wheels are flange to flange with engine wheels (aiming at a light source like a window makes it easier to see) looking at one axle at a time. The flanges on your wagon wheels should be the same distance apart as the engine wheels. If not, this is what you are aiming for. To open them out the screw driver method works but you have to make sure you don't leaver the wheel crooked. Alternatively you can support the chassis either side of the wheel set and tap/put pressure on the axle center to push it through the wheel slightly. To close the gap up you can usually squeeze the wheels between you fingers. Before doing this though I would do as Il Grifone suggests and see if that wheel is crooked on the axle as it rotates. If it is I don't know if an easy way to put that right. Anyone? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium kevinlms Posted December 31, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 31, 2019 13 hours ago, WaysideWorks said: If that would have been the case wouldn't it be wobbly in forward and reverse? I'm just saying it looks crooked. It could be the angle of the photo, but you're the one with it in your hands. Obviously something is wrong, as it wouldn't wobble at all. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
WaysideWorks Posted December 31, 2019 Author Share Posted December 31, 2019 Turns out it's crooked AND it's out of gauge! What do? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
WaysideWorks Posted December 31, 2019 Author Share Posted December 31, 2019 And as SR71 said I don't have money for all that expensive equipment. If I had money to buy that stuff I would just get a new loco Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium SR71 Posted December 31, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 31, 2019 1 hour ago, WaysideWorks said: Turns out it's crooked AND it's out of gauge! What do? Beginning to sound to me like it's been dropped or otherwise been subject to ill fortune. I don't think I have any of these left but I'll have a rumage in the spares box. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
34theletterbetweenB&D Posted December 31, 2019 Share Posted December 31, 2019 The motor is also slightly off axis. 23 hours ago, kevinlms said: Top left wheel in photo 3 looks crooked. 15 hours ago, WaysideWorks said: If that would have been the case wouldn't it be wobbly in forward and reverse? It probably is, but happens to be more noticeable in the forward direction. Because the worm drives directly onto the axle, that wheelset is pushed to one side going forward, the other side going backward. Consequently the loco sits differently on track, and all the moving component parts alignments are subtly different. Lots of small variations that sum differently forward and reverse... I would suggest you have found enough already to return it on the basis of unsatisfactory running, rather than try and fix it. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
WaysideWorks Posted December 31, 2019 Author Share Posted December 31, 2019 47 minutes ago, 34theletterbetweenB&D said: The motor is also slightly off axis. It probably is, but happens to be more noticeable in the forward direction. Because the worm drives directly onto the axle, that wheelset is pushed to one side going forward, the other side going backward. Consequently the loco sits differently on track, and all the moving component parts alignments are subtly different. Lots of small variations that sum differently forward and reverse... I would suggest you have found enough already to return it on the basis of unsatisfactory running, rather than try and fix it. I don't know how long Hattons accepts returns, seeing as I bought it a while ago. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium kevinlms Posted December 31, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 31, 2019 2 minutes ago, WaysideWorks said: I don't know how long Hattons accepts returns, seeing as I bought it a while ago. Yes, that's what i was thinking. What material are the wheels from this model made from? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
34theletterbetweenB&D Posted December 31, 2019 Share Posted December 31, 2019 26 minutes ago, WaysideWorks said: I don't know how long Hattons accepts returns, seeing as I bought it a while ago. The worst they can say is 'no'! I know it is difficult in some circumstances, but my 'fixed plan' is to get several hours of running and performance evaluation done within a day or three of having the item in my hands. That way there is no argument when a return proves necessary: only just received, and there's a fault. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now