Simon Moore Posted January 11, 2020 Author Share Posted January 11, 2020 1 hour ago, Michael Edge said: Are these transfers going to be commercially available now? Michael I've dropped you an email about it with some details. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Moore Posted January 15, 2020 Author Share Posted January 15, 2020 I've been having a few more sessions on the shunter & I've been getting frustrated with it. Try as I might I cannot get it to run smoothly. I was hoping to have it running & finished by weekend but it seems to have beaten me. I've stopped for now. Both me & the wife are struggling with sleep due to a very unsettled baby so until I'm feeling fresh I'm not doing anymore. Im going to strip the chassis of its motor/gearbox & investigate what's going on. It's something & nothing but as always a pain to find. I'm going to have a workshop day on saturday I think so I can get this one finished off. I have done a bit more on the paintwork & it's ready for a varnish. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Moore Posted January 18, 2020 Author Share Posted January 18, 2020 The big Scunny hunslet I've been building has caused something of a headache this week! Try as I might I could not get the thing running to my usual standard. 2 different gearboxes were fitted & yet it would not run smoothly so i put it on hold until this morning. I got the green light from SWMBO so I could have the morning in the workshop & do some modelling. I've built a high level gearbox up which is the 3rd for the model now but it works a treat now. I stripped the chassis down, cleaned & reamed the bearings & sleeved the rods so I could get a tighter fit on the crankpins. I tested ever part as I went along & each pick up as it was fitted to make sure nothing was causing issues. Finally it's done! The body has half a church roof in it & has finally been given a coat of gloss varnish. Tomorrow evening the cabside logo & text transfers are going on & then this next week I will do the wasp stripes on the bufferbeams before a final coat of matt varnish. Once that's done I can glaze it & finish it with weathering & shea ready for service. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Moore Posted January 19, 2020 Author Share Posted January 19, 2020 Last night I put the gloss varnish onto the model so I could apply the transfers to the cabside. Couldnt wait this morning so I've stuck them on & it's looking ace. I've still to fit the following items, Bufferbeam wasp stripes Cab interior which also needs painting Roof beacon Glazing Crew Re paint the rods Fit balance weights Fit hunslet plates Weather. Fingers crossed shes done this next week then I can start another build. 13 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted January 19, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 19, 2020 Are these Romford crankpins? - plain ones or the bushed variety? I use plain Romford crankpins on this (and just about everything else) with a thin slice of tube as a retainer. With this it is possible (with some care) to fit the roller bearing caps over them, lightly soldered to the coupling rods. 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Moore Posted January 20, 2020 Author Share Posted January 20, 2020 I did wonder how you fitted those roller bearing caps on the model. I was thinking of thinning the soldered washer down & resistance soldering the caps on, as it is now running satisfactory I think it might stay as is. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted January 20, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 20, 2020 It's a rather delicate operation, I thin the fastener down as much as possible and slather it with grease first. The roller bearing cover is fixed with a small dab of solder, it is possible to flick them off again if you need to dismantle later for maintenance/repairs. We have quite a few kits with roller bearing crankpins, not just the Hunslets but most of the Sentinels as well. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Moore Posted January 20, 2020 Author Share Posted January 20, 2020 (edited) Just fitted the first wasp stripe to the bufferbeam. It's about all I can muster this evening I'm very tired! It's not perfect but it'll do & i can hide some of the errors behind weathering. Still very proud of this model though it looks superb. Looking forward to seeing this finished off as it's been a very enjoyable build all in all. Edited January 20, 2020 by Rhb Simon 13 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Moore Posted January 21, 2020 Author Share Posted January 21, 2020 20 hours ago, Michael Edge said: It's a rather delicate operation, I thin the fastener down as much as possible and slather it with grease first. The roller bearing cover is fixed with a small dab of solder, it is possible to flick them off again if you need to dismantle later for maintenance/repairs. We have quite a few kits with roller bearing crankpins, not just the Hunslets but most of the Sentinels as well. I'm going to look at the caps before I paint the rods to see if i can fit them. I've a few of your kits I know have them so it would be advantageous to learn how to do them. The big north british thankfully doesnt have the caps although I want to try to make all the compensation work instead of my usual rigid set up. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sb67 Posted January 21, 2020 Share Posted January 21, 2020 That shunter is looking mighty fine Simon, look forward to seeing it weathered 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted January 21, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 21, 2020 2 hours ago, Rhb Simon said: I'm going to look at the caps before I paint the rods to see if i can fit them. I've a few of your kits I know have them so it would be advantageous to learn how to do them. The big north british thankfully doesnt have the caps although I want to try to make all the compensation work instead of my usual rigid set up. You will need thinner and smaller diameter fasteners than the ones you have on at the moment. I use slices of thin wall brass tube, 1.5mm O.D/1mm I.D, on Romford plain crankpins. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Moore Posted January 21, 2020 Author Share Posted January 21, 2020 4 hours ago, Michael Edge said: You will need thinner and smaller diameter fasteners than the ones you have on at the moment. I use slices of thin wall brass tube, 1.5mm O.D/1mm I.D, on Romford plain crankpins. Cheers Michael I will see what I have in my stock pile of tubing. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Moore Posted January 22, 2020 Author Share Posted January 22, 2020 Decided to start another project last night. This is a mercian models Barclay diesel hydraulic. I was half asleep when building this & as a result I have made a right mess of it! A first time for everything I suppose. I'm glad it's gone tits up big baz as the EM frame spacers are as much use as a chocolate lifeguard! Just look at the between the frame & wheel, you could sail the titanic up that gap. I've some comet spacers in stock which I'm going to use once I've stripped & cleaned up the frames. I hope to do that tomorrow evening all being well. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Moore Posted March 23, 2020 Author Share Posted March 23, 2020 With the current situation unfolding & already finding myself on lockdown due to one of the kids having a cough, I'm making full use of my time off work. I bought a brand new Hornby fowler tank last year than ran terribly bad from the off. I thought maybe once converted to EM it might solve the problem but no it was still appalling. The model sat on the shelf for ages & then I decided to replace its chassis with a comet one & so with everything here I decided to get cracking & get the model built as intended. I've got the chassis rolling lovely & built up the cylinders. As with everything Comet it is well thought out & goes together well. I've still a few spacers to add but these are for the bogies & decided I would not fit those until I have the bogies built up & ready to be fitted. Lots to do still but a achievable project for the next week whilst homebound. 7 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Moore Posted March 25, 2020 Author Share Posted March 25, 2020 I've been chipping away at the fowler chassis the past couple of days & I've managed to get one side of the walscharts built up. So far no real issue other than the usual clearance issues with finer gauges. I would not like the hassle of building this in P4. I hope by tomorrow to have a fully rolling chassis & then I can dismantle the chassis ready for paint. 10 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Moore Posted March 25, 2020 Author Share Posted March 25, 2020 This evening I've just fettled the various bits on the motion & soldered up everything to test. I have a very nice, free set of valve gear on one side. Tomorrow I will make the other side up & fit it then itll be more or less done & ready for painting. I must say I have really enjoyed this build so far. It always helps when you have decent components to start with. 4mm modellers are lucky to have such decent kits, 7mm is a different story all together with some right sh#te on the market. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted March 25, 2020 Share Posted March 25, 2020 Im at the same stage with one of these at the moment in EM also.. Look forward to seeing more. im going to try using the Hornby valve gear and crosshead on mine. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Moore Posted March 25, 2020 Author Share Posted March 25, 2020 Michael it's a pretty straight forward build, just the typical tweaking here & there for EM gauge. One thing I have done is solder brass rod between the top of the cylinder spacer & the motion bracket so the whole thing lifts out as one unit. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Moore Posted March 28, 2020 Author Share Posted March 28, 2020 Yesterday was another productive day here on lockdown. I managed to keep the missus & children happy & still fit in a few sessions of modelling. Firstly the fowler tank. I cracked on the other evening & built the other side of the valve gear. It was tested & was free as a bird so was stripped yesterday & painted. That's today's project to get it fully finished & running. The other project was a Bachmann 105 cravens dmu conversion to EM. I came across a conversion on the forum & read that Branchlines did a conversion. Whilst not a cheap wheelset it does the job in less than 20 minutes & works perfectly. The only modification I had to do was remove the brakes off the motor bogie. My next job with the dmu is to detail its bufferbeams & add some passengers & a crew. I'd like to add some destination blinds because it's currently a east anglian model & I'd like mine to be greater manchester. 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted March 28, 2020 Share Posted March 28, 2020 Rhb Simon A cracking job on your loco builds, I have a couple of simple EM gauge chassis being built at the moment, a Comet and Southeastern Finecast, thankfully no valve gear. Its so satisfying when things work well, thankfully as modern day gearboxes work so well, I could never get the hang of setting up older style motor mounts. As they caused me so much frustration and disappointment I have built a couple of etched bodies, but I am still in the stone age, as I prefer whitemetal bodies, thanks for the posts, they have brightened up my morning 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Moore Posted March 28, 2020 Author Share Posted March 28, 2020 Cheers Hayfield I must admit I do like white metal kits as they come together very quickly. Etched kits just take a while to build. Plenty more to come. Mike edge has just sold me a stanier 2-6-2 tank kit which will be a interesting build as it's a semi scratch build. No instructions & itll need additional castings. That's destined to become a Lower Darwin engine. I think my next build is going to be a djh duke of Gloucester kit as it's one of my favourite locos. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Moore Posted March 28, 2020 Author Share Posted March 28, 2020 Cheers Hayfield I must admit I do like white metal kits as they come together very quickly. Etched kits just take a while to build. Plenty more to come. Mike edge has just sold me a stanier 2-6-2 tank kit which will be a interesting build as it's a semi scratch build. No instructions & itll need additional castings. That's destined to become a Lower Darwin engine. I think my next build is going to be a djh duke of Gloucester kit as it's one of my favourite locos. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Moore Posted March 29, 2020 Author Share Posted March 29, 2020 This weekend has been very productive indeed I've got the fowler to a running loco which I will finish off at a later date. I dug out a semi scratch built lyr class 28 I started 5 years ago. I've re wheeled it & got it to a very nicely running model. I've also started a djh duke of Gloucester kit I've had for a few years now. I've built the chassis up using comet em spacers which work perfectly. The parts for the cylinders & valve gear I thi k will need modifications but I hope it's nothing to drastic. The duke is what I'm going to concentrate on this next week. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Holt Posted March 31, 2020 Share Posted March 31, 2020 Don't forget that DoG (and other BR Standard pacifics) had narrow frames - only 3'-4.75" outside. This was because the frame plates were centred on the driving wheel axleboxes. Most UK steam locos had frame about 4'-1.5" inside, to allow for the narrow firebox. Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Moore Posted April 4, 2020 Author Share Posted April 4, 2020 (edited) Last night I started putting together a Cotswold LYR Barton Wright 0-6-2 tank. Not a bad kit for something off the ark but the gap between boiler & spectacle plate will need filling with white metal. I was thinking of doing this in a lanky green but I might just make a what if survivor in br early crest for a bit of fun. Yesterday evening I also started to modify the djh castings for the dukes valve gear. I'm going to carry on doing the valvegear this morning & hopefully get the cylinders modified ready for fitting. Edited April 4, 2020 by Rhb Simon 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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