Jump to content
 

Scratch built lanky signal box


Recommended Posts

This afternoon i have got the Johnson out & put the transfers on one side. I've the dog to take to the vets shortly so i will do the other side later today. I think i will get the bufferbeams sprayed red this evening & then the body is more or less done. A few copper & brass bits to paint afterwards. 

The model has been done as a local engine that worked the worth valley branch.

 

20210130_142311.jpg.1ec7d087f6a81e63c236172eeb656292.jpg

 

I still have the chassis to finish off but its running which is the main thing. It will look grand on my rake of ex midland coaches.

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • Simon Moore changed the title to Craftsman Johnson 1f

The wife got me a high level RSH 14inch kit for christmas & i have been itching to start building it. I decided that today i would make a start & get the chassis built up. This is a P4 model so i prepped the hornblocks this afternoon & cut the hornways out ready for assembly in the evening.

 

20210201_133337.jpg.a69d953b63eaed013b7d6befd59f0d50.jpg20210201_140035.jpg.f018879eaa7b51dd4c1cfee4bed1cbd0.jpg

 

This evening once all the jobs had been done i had a good hour or so in the workshop & assembled the basic frames for the loco. All jigged up on plate glass & with a final check around with the magnifying glasses i started to tack solder everything in place. Once i was happy everything was still where it was meant to be i seam soldered everything up. 

 

20210201_201056.jpg.335d217aaa106b39199f9b644bab43ee.jpg

IMG-20210201-WA0148.jpeg.5dc536a4873b1b65412da2b9b7217321.jpeg

 

Tomorrow i am going to assemble the wheels on the axles & give it a quick push test with the rods in place. Once i am happy all is well i will then strip the wheels & continue with the build. I do not like putting gibson wheels on & off the axles to many times.

 

So far, so good with a lovely set of etches to work on.

 

 

  • Like 7
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • Simon Moore changed the title to P4 High level RSH
35 minutes ago, Michael Edge said:

I usually only put Gibson wheels on the axles once - twice at the most, with the gearbox axle.

 

Probably a really daft question but how do you tackle the painting of the chassis if the wheels are in the frames Mike? 

  • Agree 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

I've covered this before in my workshop thread but basically frames, wheels, brakes, cylinders (not always slidebars though) etc. are assembled, then the whole lot sprayed black. Wheel treads cleaned off and everything else fitted. I often do this with the gearbox installed as well, in this case masked off, so all the wheels only go on once. In the case of locos with wheels or frames painted a different colour this isn't always possible but mostly everything is black. Larry Goddard told me to do it like this many years ago and it's never caused any problems, the paint just runs off any moving surfaces.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold
1 hour ago, Michael Edge said:

the whole lot sprayed black

Do you spray a primer first, Mike, please?

 

1 hour ago, Michael Edge said:

Wheel treads cleaned off 

I'd be interested to understand the precise process you use to clean the wheel treads, please? Is it done before the paint dries or perhaps just when it is touch-dry?

 

Do you use something like cotton buds soaked in thinners to get the paint off?

 

Also, do you find any issues with pick-ups acting on the back of the wheels, please?

 

I have recently acquired a couple of already-built P4 locos with AG wheels, where the chassis needs painting in both cases and I am extremely reluctant to dismantle the wheels and motion, especially as both locos are silky smooth runners.

 

For what it's worth when I build a P4 chassis myself, is that I modify the chassis (if necessary), to enable each complete wheelset to be dropped out for painting etc. Not so easy if the driven axle is fixed, though, as in single-beam compensation, but I would paint the area behind those wheels first, if possible.

 

Many thanks.

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Michael Edge said:

I've covered this before in my workshop thread but basically frames, wheels, brakes, cylinders (not always slidebars though) etc. are assembled, then the whole lot sprayed black. Wheel treads cleaned off and everything else fitted. I often do this with the gearbox installed as well, in this case masked off, so all the wheels only go on once. In the case of locos with wheels or frames painted a different colour this isn't always possible but mostly everything is black. Larry Goddard told me to do it like this many years ago and it's never caused any problems, the paint just runs off any moving surfaces.

 

I take it all moving parts pre oiled to keep paint etc off. I will have a go Mike, another option mentioned on the s4um was to have a sacrificial set of wheels but i'm a tight yorkshireman & i can't justify it. 

 

Tim I'm in the same boat with a few pre built locos that i do not want to dismantle as they were purchased pre built.

  • Friendly/supportive 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

14 hours ago, Rhb Simon said:

The wife got me a high level RSH 14inch kit for christmas & i have been itching to start building it. I decided that today i would make a start & get the chassis built up. This is a P4 model so i prepped the hornblocks this afternoon & cut the hornways out ready for assembly in the evening.

 

20210201_133337.jpg.a69d953b63eaed013b7d6befd59f0d50.jpg20210201_140035.jpg.f018879eaa7b51dd4c1cfee4bed1cbd0.jpg

 

This evening once all the jobs had been done i had a good hour or so in the workshop & assembled the basic frames for the loco. All jigged up on plate glass & with a final check around with the magnifying glasses i started to tack solder everything in place. Once i was happy everything was still where it was meant to be i seam soldered everything up. 

 

20210201_201056.jpg.335d217aaa106b39199f9b644bab43ee.jpg

IMG-20210201-WA0148.jpeg.5dc536a4873b1b65412da2b9b7217321.jpeg

 

Tomorrow i am going to assemble the wheels on the axles & give it a quick push test with the rods in place. Once i am happy all is well i will then strip the wheels & continue with the build. I do not like putting gibson wheels on & off the axles to many times.

 

So far, so good with a lovely set of etches to work on.

 

 

Just come across this thread, most interesting. Many thanks for the above post, it'll be most useful in the future as advice for how to put together one of this style of chassis.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium
2 hours ago, Captain Kernow said:

Do you spray a primer first, Mike, please?

 

I'd be interested to understand the precise process you use to clean the wheel treads, please? Is it done before the paint dries or perhaps just when it is touch-dry?

 

Do you use something like cotton buds soaked in thinners to get the paint off?

 

Also, do you find any issues with pick-ups acting on the back of the wheels, please?

 

I have recently acquired a couple of already-built P4 locos with AG wheels, where the chassis needs painting in both cases and I am extremely reluctant to dismantle the wheels and motion, especially as both locos are silky smooth runners.

 

For what it's worth when I build a P4 chassis myself, is that I modify the chassis (if necessary), to enable each complete wheelset to be dropped out for painting etc. Not so easy if the driven axle is fixed, though, as in single-beam compensation, but I would paint the area behind those wheels first, if possible.

 

Many thanks.

 

Yes, Halfords primer first.

Cleaning is purely mechanical (best done before the paint gets too hard). I have a rubber ring round the upper pulley on my milling machine (only a relatively feeble Unimat), hold each wheel in turn against this to rotate it and use a variety of scrapers and scalpel blades to take the paint off. This most importantly includes the backs of the tyres if the pickups have to contact there. Wheel backs often need cleaning again after the loco is varnished.

I do put some oil in all the bearings before painting which probably helps to keep the paint out and they are oiled again before cleaning - before you ask it's car engine oil, stays on the job and doesn't affect any plastics.

With a pre-built loco I would try to remove the motion before doing this, including the coupling rods so that each wheelset can be cleaned individually. With new builds I often arrange the slidebars to peg through the cylinders so that they can be left off for painting - mostly because it's a bit awkward to remove paint from them. I also fit pcb pads for pickups before painting, scraping the paint off to fit the pickup wires. Wire pickups will cause problems if you get paint on them so if you have a loco with them on already put a blob of blutack or something on the ends of them first.

I don't use hornblock systems unless I absolutely have to, I have only very rarely wished I could drop a wheelset out, the only times this has occurred it was to deal with poor crankpin fitting - so I make that as secure as possible first. I don't use screw/loose bush crankpins either, just plain pins as in full size practice.

2 hours ago, Rhb Simon said:

 

I take it all moving parts pre oiled to keep paint etc off. I will have a go Mike, another option mentioned on the s4um was to have a sacrificial set of wheels but i'm a tight yorkshireman & i can't justify it. 

 

Tim I'm in the same boat with a few pre built locos that i do not want to dismantle as they were purchased pre built.

I'm not a Yorkshireman but even I would balk at "sacrificial wheels" with prices as they are!

  • Informative/Useful 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium
14 minutes ago, D-A-T said:

I’m sure that Iain Rice advocates in one of his books spray painting the chassis and/or wheels in situ while under power!

You do have to turn the wheels round as painting progresses - but not continuously! It doesn't work very well with disc or Bulleid wheels either.

Link to post
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Rhb Simon said:

 

I take it all moving parts pre oiled to keep paint etc off. I will have a go Mike, another option mentioned on the s4um was to have a sacrificial set of wheels but i'm a tight yorkshireman & i can't justify it. 

 

Tim I'm in the same boat with a few pre built locos that i do not want to dismantle as they were purchased pre built.

 

May sound sacrilegious, but I bought some Markit P4 axles, I am trying to set up the chassis with Romford/Markit wheels, the plan is to fit Gibsons once the chassis is built, tested and painted. A bit lumpy going through turnouts but fine on plain track 

  • Informative/Useful 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Looking forward to seeing your progress - It's an excellent kit that goes together very well. Mine is over 20 years old and still runs superbly, despite many actual miles running.

 

I believe the kit's buffers are white metal castings and I replaced them with Kean Maygib sprung examples - the kit deserves that I think but otherwise I couldn't fault it.

 

WP_20150726_16_03_34_Pro.jpg.9f93fb8b001694b37620dd922b688d68.jpg

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, hayfield said:

 

May sound sacrilegious, but I bought some Markit P4 axles, I am trying to set up the chassis with Romford/Markit wheels, the plan is to fit Gibsons once the chassis is built, tested and painted. A bit lumpy going through turnouts but fine on plain track 

I have been sat here wishing that markits did a p4 axle. Now i know they do i will order 3 axles. I have a set of wheels i use for em models which would be very useful to set up the frames saving the wheels for after the chassis is painted.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Today has been very productive with a session this afternoon & a nice long session this evening. I am amazed how quickly this model has come together & how far i have got with it.

Its been a lovely model to work on & like anything Chris puts together its always a joy to put together. Industrial modellers are spoilt between Mike edge & Chris Gibbons designing the kits that they do. 

I am really looking forward to another session on this lovely little kit, its been very enjoyable so far.20210202_211217.jpg.5fb1f9f79fac926b61226b2e9eff4f7c.jpg20210202_210634.jpg.a2dcb40aa4fe5a785d3421e24eac7841.jpg20210202_210629.jpg.616493d9f0ddf48c09210568f739c0ab.jpg

  • Like 9
Link to post
Share on other sites

On 02/02/2021 at 11:51, PenrithBeacon said:

Just come across this thread, most interesting.

Me too.  Until I saw the Mercian Barclay I hadn't realised you are the same Simon as on the S4 Forum.  Very glad to hear that Arnold's layout found a new home.  He was a great bloke and we always enjoyed a bit (!!) of banter about P4 and GWR!

 

Are the Dave Bradwell etches you refer to the ones for 'improving' the Bachmann hoppers?  I've got a couple of sets in my stash that I'm certain I'll never use.  If you're interested in them please PM me.

Link to post
Share on other sites

On 02/02/2021 at 10:36, Rhb Simon said:

 

I take it all moving parts pre oiled to keep paint etc off. I will have a go Mike, another option mentioned on the s4um was to have a sacrificial set of wheels but i'm a tight yorkshireman & i can't justify it. 

 

Tim I'm in the same boat with a few pre built locos that i do not want to dismantle as they were purchased pre built.

 

Another option you might want to use is to have a set of Markit/Romford wheels for use in setting up chassis. 

 

They do manufacture P4 length axles and of course these wheels to go on and come back off many times for multiple locomotives without any real bother (and you have the advantage that you can test the chassis comfortable that quartering is not a problem).  Obviously it also allows them to be removed for painting.

 

Then, as Mike says, only put Gibson wheels on once. 

 

And if you use Gibson wheels I would say it is important to gently chamfer the last 1/2mm of the axle before mounting them - the steel axle can have a very sharp edge and damages the wheel boss irreparably.  

 

 

Mark

 

 

Edited by Portchullin Tatty
  • Agree 1
  • Informative/Useful 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • Simon Moore changed the title to Judith Edge Thomas Hill steelman nearing completion with bsc transfers

Just stuck the transfers on the Thomas Hill Steelman Royale kit which is my homage to the steelworkers of Teesside. It has surpassed how i imaged it when i set of with the crazy idea of doing as a BSC Teesside livery. This is afterall a MOD loco

 

20210205_190201.jpg.db57d08b47e128ea810572eeb8967e25.jpg20210205_190209.jpg.5c87c00f7079a49da2765644dbfc32b4.jpg 

  • Like 8
  • Craftsmanship/clever 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • Simon Moore changed the title to British steel shunter, lnwr 4ft6 tank builds p4

As the rain is lashing it down outside its been a different story in the workshop. Heating on, radio on & after a quick clean up to work on the 4ft6 tank. 

 

Its just a case of fitting the details now & i am nearly there. I did however catch a condensing pipe with the iron & melt the flange which i am annoyed about. Apart from that little error & the hand rail on the smoke box it is about done. The roof parts parts, steps & guard irons i have left off until the chassis is built. The roof is left off so the cab can be detailed which i am not doing. 

 

An absolute joy of a kit though.

 

IMG-20210206-WA0002.jpeg.faa40fb0136486613203915a6c1b9e4a.jpeg

Edited by Rhb Simon
  • Like 4
  • Craftsmanship/clever 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

I am very happy to say i sneaked back into the workshop this afternoon & got this model completed. I will be sad to see it go, i got it this far & i really want to see it finished. I guess i will in time. Now i can get back to the RSH & finish her off too.

 

IMG-20210206-WA0004.jpeg.a9dca28e0064b29466ccb0033bcb4874.jpegIMG-20210206-WA0008.jpeg.9bc8ae0e1ebc82b42c40303e9e5a80aa.jpeg

IMG-20210206-WA0006.jpeg

Edited by Rhb Simon
  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • Simon Moore changed the title to Brassmasters great central horsebox

On sunday evening i sat in my workshop & had a look at my kit stash. Not wanting to start anything heavy i reached for a kit i recently purchased from Brassmasters. This kit is the Great Central, CLC horsebox kit that brassmasters has added to the range.

 

You get a nice etch of parts & some white metal castings in a bag, not bad for 25 quid.

 

The first job is to solder wire into the half etched lines around the doors to create the beading which was a right faff & whilst it is acceptable to me i wouldn't like to repeat the job again. I got the basic body shell built on sunday & yesterday evening i rolled the roof & fitted the W irons on to get a feel for how it is going to look. I am going to replace the vac pipes with some lost wax brass castings, i have never been a fan of white metal ones. With a bit of luck another evening or two should see this finished & ready for paint. This is built in EM to go on my ĺayout Bodgers Brow. It will be finished in great central brown livery as the picture shows on the brassmasters website.

 

20210208_202509.jpg.55cc6e3cfea5061222f521c4e684291c.jpg

  • Like 4
Link to post
Share on other sites

I dug this little critter out last night to re gauge to P4. Its a RT models thomas hill vangaurd kit which was a nice kit to make. I built this some time ago & i am thinking of either stripping it to do a nicer job or building another. I really like this prototype it looks ace, its a nice running model for such a small, short wheelbase chassis.

 

My order for the s4 society stores arrived yesterday so i just had half an hour re gauging the model with new wheels & pick ups. I do think it deserves a trip into the celly & a new paintjob so i can wasp stripe the bufferbeams. 20200101_130433.jpg.309bdeef7b85171a5bfc2535e951f7da.jpg

  • Like 5
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • Simon Moore changed the title to Mainly P4 industrials

Today i have started to finish off the steelman royale. I have been adding the window frames to the model read for a final varnish. 20210213_122457.jpg.c9e82b5443e1cb436d53d2a023361dfc.jpg20210213_122450.jpg.6b4f42e97f2dff5ced13a1be684fe050.jpg20210213_122438.jpg.c286ce033535e1309794dd1ec2af801c.jpg20210213_102502.jpg.0c93844a59172e9a0d295b2621f3f091.jpg

 

A very enjoyable project so far & one i am extremely proud of. I think this is the best model i have ever made, its come out so well.

  • Like 5
  • Craftsmanship/clever 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

15 hours ago, Michael Edge said:

It looks superb, you should be proud of it. We always appreciate seeing our kits built and finished.

 

Cheers Mike thanks for the compliment. You will be seeing many more of your models built this year, i have quiet the pile. Now i have those chassis you sent me the 562hp Hunslet will be first priority to finish in p4. My fingers & toes are crossed for the gec stephenson & the dorman long sentinel to soon appear. Looking forward to the dorman long.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...