Jump to content
 

Cholsey & Moulsford (Change for Wallingford)


Nick Gough
 Share

Recommended Posts

The fireplace and chimney breast:P1290988.JPG.32c669d9710f520b158e5dfc2b756280.JPG

 

This consists of three component parts:

P1290987.JPG.3d65555446869006bdc54230e5c7ea44.JPG

 

On the left is a triangular, section of wood to create the shape of the chimney breast. This will be glued into the corner at the joint between the office and the main shed, therefore also reinforcing this joint. It has a small, shaped lump of plasticard at the bottom to represent the grate. I have put a few dabs of orange paint on the grate to try and give the illusion of a lit fire.

Edited by Nick Gough
  • Like 11
  • Round of applause 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, RJS1977 said:

 

Scheduled visit - it did three passes , and another one did the same on Sunday afternoon.

 

I've arranged BBMF flypasts for the Railway for several years now - I normally just give them a few dates and they see when they're going to be in the area, usually hoping for a couple during the season. In 2019, we were lucky enough to have them on six dates, and got all their different aircraft types (except the Chipmunks) at some point!  

 

That reminds me, in 2003 I was lucky enough to join an organised visit to their hangar at RAF Coningsby:100_4313.JPG.ecb2c61363aaefbf274b98f11f7c813a.JPG

 

We were able to get close up and personal to the aircraft:

100_4321.JPG.455bd0195e520aebd4801659ddf2dc23.JPG

100_4332.JPG.110cc81e5753a40b67a130f86c46fc3e.JPG100_4335.JPG.12f3fc44df9b290327811e38df9dbe28.JPG100_4347.JPG.b6147a99d57b066abeb08ada698a9db8.JPG100_4358.JPG.4d334b43233e4d8de6c012eedfbf802f.JPG

 

Plus a look around inside the Dakota:

100_4306.JPG.ab81edeb262925232dd50264f947d31b.JPG100_4309.JPG.8f4dec4d70bac7a550546ee352826181.JPG

 

And the Lancaster:

 

100_4477.JPG.f802c2803e7898e7b8c59d7b6f1f750b.JPG

100_4493.JPG.6cdfb47c201d05e42c20317e55b4da9f.JPG100_4483.JPG.2f8a46c9e2e41aa871db875192adc4a2.JPG100_4439.JPG.7068de642b62b10a7a1c8fd6ae3c99fc.JPG

  • Like 11
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold
54 minutes ago, Nick Gough said:

This afternoon I have been working on a lock-up for the corner of the cart deck.

I'm not sure whether it should have a roof though?

P1290989.JPG.00c34fb35d74e0ae0731f7885af1b40b.JPGP1290990.JPG.6430229731ad9c689c52f3fb4aeb8864.JPGP1290994.JPG.b7a567476b347ae982d5b6f3b58510ce.JPG

 

I've no idea about the prototype, but I think I'd build it without a roof.  Also, if you do add one it's going to go across the window.

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold
1 hour ago, Nick Gough said:

This afternoon I've had a first attempt at dry brushing:

P1300003.JPG.9ca843c2969070d63eb02ec61240b868.JPGP1300004.JPG.592908b3c29bec008930ede1d5fb1785.JPGP1300002.JPG.ac70c04a48eff855a9753c1ab3f38633.JPG

 

I'd appreciate any thoughts or feedback?

 

Nick,

I think it looks fine.  It is a bit patchy, but is that a problem?  I would need to see what the original looked like.  Did the locos go in the goods shed?  I assume not, so there will not be smoke stains over the track.

 

It has certainly toned it down well and brought the whole thing together.  I like it.

  • Agree 3
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

13 hours ago, ChrisN said:

 

Nick,

I think it looks fine.  It is a bit patchy, but is that a problem?  I would need to see what the original looked like.  Did the locos go in the goods shed?  I assume not, so there will not be smoke stains over the track.

 

It has certainly toned it down well and brought the whole thing together.  I like it.

 

Thanks Chris.

I'm thinking it's still a bit pale at the moment, after the mortar wash.

I think I will need to get it a bit darker?

 

This is the brickwork at Maidenhead:

1256005361_Maidenhead5.jpg.02b2966b625f3d490aff35d6bf8e5982.jpg.b3f7622c009b302a7cfd62680621aeb9.jpg1565018512_Maidenhead14.jpg.7f97abf79ec51ede2cfd7fce997a658d.jpg.2140c90290cfd215190e90342cebad96.jpg

 

That's definitely patchy!

 

I don't believe that locomotives were allowed to enter the shed.

 

  • Like 5
  • Agree 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold
6 hours ago, Nick Gough said:

 

Thanks Chris.

I'm thinking it's still a bit pale at the moment, after the mortar wash.

I think I will need to get it a bit darker?

 

This is the brickwork at Maidenhead:

1256005361_Maidenhead5.jpg.02b2966b625f3d490aff35d6bf8e5982.jpg.b3f7622c009b302a7cfd62680621aeb9.jpg1565018512_Maidenhead14.jpg.7f97abf79ec51ede2cfd7fce997a658d.jpg.2140c90290cfd215190e90342cebad96.jpg

 

That's definitely patchy!

 

I don't believe that locomotives were allowed to enter the shed.

 

 

Nick,

I think the base colour looks different.  The walls always pales after applying the mortar wash.  I might try applying a brick colour dry brush followed by a black/dark grey dry brush, but that might just ruin it.

 

If your station was the same it would be consistent and you could argue that that is what it was like there.

  • Thanks 1
  • Interesting/Thought-provoking 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

Looking ok to me Nick, though I think the bricks might need to be a bit darker/redder?  

 

You may very well be aware of what follows, but just in case it's of use or interest ....

 

I used the techniques described by Karl Crowther http://www.timbertracks.co.uk/Timber-Tracks-Painting-Guide-by-Karl-Crowther.pdf  in his guide to painting Timber Tracks kits.  A shorter version of this guidance formed part of his article in the April 2015 RM.  Basically it's a dry brush technique in which the mortar colour goes on first, with the brick colour added by dry brushing bit by bit until the colour you want is achieved.  It also has useful paint number references.

 

John C.

 

  • Thanks 1
  • Informative/Useful 2
  • Interesting/Thought-provoking 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, ChrisN said:

 

Nick,

I think the base colour looks different.  The walls always pales after applying the mortar wash.  I might try applying a brick colour dry brush followed by a black/dark grey dry brush, but that might just ruin it.

 

If your station was the same it would be consistent and you could argue that that is what it was like there.

 

2 hours ago, checkrail said:

Looking ok to me Nick, though I think the bricks might need to be a bit darker/redder?  

 

You may very well be aware of what follows, but just in case it's of use or interest ....

 

I used the techniques described by Karl Crowther http://www.timbertracks.co.uk/Timber-Tracks-Painting-Guide-by-Karl-Crowther.pdf  in his guide to painting Timber Tracks kits.  A shorter version of this guidance formed part of his article in the April 2015 RM.  Basically it's a dry brush technique in which the mortar colour goes on first, with the brick colour added by dry brushing bit by bit until the colour you want is achieved.  It also has useful paint number references.

 

John C.

 

Thanks for the suggestions gentlemen.

 

I think I need to give the bricks a a bit more colour again, so I'll give that a go with a dry brush.

  • Like 4
Link to post
Share on other sites

We've just spent a couple of days in the Derby area so I took the opportunity to visit Malc's Models in Ilkestone.

 

It's one of the few model shops that stock the Phoenix Precision paint range and I bought these examples:

P1300103.JPG.b3a43648ca815c6ee650970642caf67a.JPG

 

I particularly wanted to get the GWR Dark Stone since, like others, I am not very convinced by the Railmatch version I have been using so far.

 

I also picked up a pack of 'corrugated iron' which I will need when I build the roadside canopy for the goods shed:

P1300104.JPG.cdb673f532490ba8a53987ec540ee58a.JPG

 

The final purchase was a Gaugemaster twin-track controller for our grandson's forthcoming birthday:

P1300102.JPG.f4c6cf14bae4b6c305ddb562e030737e.JPG

 

Up until now he has been using a trainset Hornby single-track controller connected to both track circuits. This doesn't seem to like older locos and sometimes struggles with any loco.

 

He should have no problem operating the Gaugemaster since he is used to using my four-track one!

Edited by Nick Gough
  • Like 9
  • Round of applause 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

That looks better, I think.

 

For the corrugated iron, unless it particularly needs to be strong, I'd recommend the Wills glazing sheet.  It's a lot thinner so you get a realistic looking edge.  It's what I've been using for my goods shed on Chuffnell Regis.

  • Agree 1
  • Thanks 1
  • Interesting/Thought-provoking 4
Link to post
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, Graham T said:

That looks better, I think.

 

For the corrugated iron, unless it particularly needs to be strong, I'd recommend the Wills glazing sheet.  It's a lot thinner so you get a realistic looking edge.  It's what I've been using for my goods shed on Chuffnell Regis.

Thanks Graham and thanks for the recommendation.

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, Graham T said:

That looks better, I think.

 

For the corrugated iron, unless it particularly needs to be strong, I'd recommend the Wills glazing sheet.  It's a lot thinner so you get a realistic looking edge.  It's what I've been using for my goods shed on Chuffnell Regis.

 

Much easier to cut, too. I bought some of the standard corrugated sheet some years ago but found it difficult to work with and relegated it to the bottom of a drawer in favour of the corrugated glazing.  A few years back, when I was building my model of the Maidenhead/Wallingford canopy (before the real thing was rebuilt), with no real dimensions or drawings to work from, I came across the bits of sheet and designed the dimensions of the model around them. As it was, our Chairman congratulated me on how close to the proportions of the canopy the model was.

 

The only snag was that in the end we went for a different roof covering - with glazing - on the real thing!

  • Like 4
  • Informative/Useful 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

15 hours ago, ChrisN said:

That shed does look a lot better.  It may need some more grime, but that is up to you I think.  It depends on how dirty you want to get your hands every time you touch it.  :)

 

I think, for the next building, I will start with the mortar and make that a darker colour.

 

I don't think I should go too much further with the dirt, bearing in mind that the station is in a rural rather than urban setting.

Edited by Nick Gough
  • Like 4
Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, I've had another go today with something a bit different:

P1300116.JPG.567922b7a688427ab1705634d664320a.JPG

 

Lightly brushed over the brickwork:

P1300117.JPG.1c593d5a5199b659f4c143ec293d0fbb.JPGP1300118.JPG.d60610aa25a9e43f3f4e9f5bb7c1e6dd.JPG

 

It seems to have toned down the over light mortar and given a slightly richer finish than the Humbrol acrylic black I was using to 'dirty'.

 

I'm reasonably happy now with the result.

Edited by Nick Gough
  • Like 9
  • Round of applause 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold
16 hours ago, Nick Gough said:

I think I've managed to get a reasonable representation of old wooden planks for the cart deck using several thin coats of different mixes of colours from the Hobbycraft ready mixed paints:P1300126.JPG.609ce41f83ab73e52cf4fb075e25fb3d.JPG

Could stand being darker (if that works out in 4mm scale) as goods shed decks were well used and more a sort of dirty grey colour rather than anything else.

  • Agree 1
  • Informative/Useful 2
  • Interesting/Thought-provoking 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...