Peco SL-E95 & E96 Turn-outs

[model-trains]

Hi guys

 

Peco ElectroFrog points.

 

On the rear of the packet it says... 

DCC Compatibility - There is no need to modify any PECO turn out for use with DCC.

 

It thern says...

Switchable frog option - ElectroFrog turnouts have the OPTION of having the frog switched independently...

 

There is then a diagram showing wires from fishplates at the toes of the point to a point motor, and the single wire at the other end also going to the point motor. The only other item shown is to cut the wires where they are currently bridged.

 

 have Cobalt IP Digital slow action motors, is it better to install using the second option? I ask due to the first statement, that there is no need to alter any PECO turnouts.

 

[Robert Stokes]

There is "no need" but it is better to take the second option of having the frog powered by the point motor. Breaking the little wires underneath can be quite difficult. I found the best thing is a miniature screwdriver. The wires are quite soft and break when pushed sideways. It is best to remove the little wires completely to avoid them possibly making contact later. You will need insulating track joiners on the inside two rails at the frog.

 

Robert

Edited January 4, 2020 by Robert Stokes
Additional information.

[Dungrange]

The first point is just highlighting that you should ignore the myth that turnouts have to be specifically modified for DCC: they don't - wiring for DC and DCC are exactly the same.

 

However, switching the frog independently rather than relying on contact of the switchblades should provide greater reliability under both DC and DCC operation.  This is the second option.  You don't need to do it, but since you are using Cobalt Digital iP point motors that have built in switching, I would make the modifications such that you are using the Cobalt Digital iP point motor to switch the frog.

 

 

 

[Free At Last]

... and if you do remove the wire links it is also best to then bridge the stock rail and closure rail.

I do mine like this....

 

[model-trains]

42 minutes ago, Free At Last said:

... and if you do remove the wire links it is also best to then bridge the stock rail and closure rail.

I do mine like this....

 

This for me would be the hard bit, my eyesight is not good looking down, I have double vision and have prisms in my glasses.

 

I manage to solder onto Peco new fish plates, bt struggle on existing fishplates and to track. When I solder between track I end up with a dry joint or melting plastic sleepers. 

 

I take it this is not essential but is an addition to ensure the current runs on the moving rails.

 

Thanks for your help and image

 

[Nigelcliffe]

2 hours ago, model-trains said:

 

This for me would be the hard bit, my eyesight is not good looking down, I have double vision and have prisms in my glasses.

 

I manage to solder onto Peco new fish plates, bt struggle on existing fishplates and to track. When I solder between track I end up with a dry joint or melting plastic sleepers. 

 

 

Could I suggest using different equipment ?    A resistance soldering unit might do what you need, has the advantage of being "cold" most of the time, so you can setup a job, set the probe onto the job (use something to hold probe and everything else, so its hands-free), be happy its all in the right place, the press the button to "energise it".  It heats in a second or less, release button and it cools almost as quickly.    Probably worth finding someone who can let you try it; they're a bit expensive to buy, but if it solves a problem.  
Technique for this may take a little time to develop - finding correct position for everything, correct solder, etc. but at least one RSU maker originally designed and marketed their device for wiring up track.

 

 

 

- Nigel

[Dungrange]

5 hours ago, model-trains said:

This for me would be the hard bit, my eyesight is not good looking down, I have double vision and have prisms in my glasses.

 

I manage to solder onto Peco new fish plates, bt struggle on existing fishplates and to track. When I solder between track I end up with a dry joint or melting plastic sleepers. 

 

I take it this is not essential but is an addition to ensure the current runs on the moving rails.

 

Correct - it's not an essential modification.  The theory is that the switch contacts in the Cobalt Digital iP point motor will be more reliable than relying on the contact between the switch blade and the stock rail, which may not have sufficient contact pressure to overcome the dirt that may build up on both the switch and the rail.  However, that improved reliability won't materialise if you modify the point as indicated and create dry solder joints.  Instead, you'll either end up with a dead section or an intermittent problem dependant on your solder joint.

 

Therefore, if soldering isn't your thing and  you don't want to adopt Nigel's suggestion of different soldering equipment, then I wouldn't bother trying to modify the point.

[model-trains]

All good advise guys, thanks to everyone for your comments and suggestions.

 

I have a couple which I have soldered but to me look a little messy, taking all the advise I have decided to leave the two soldered ones as heating them up to remove the solder could further softened the plastic sleepers.

 

The other points, untouched.

- I have removed the small wire links using the point end of a Stanley blade, they came off quite easy.

- I have removed all fishplates from every piece of track and replaced with IRJ's where necessary and brand new Peco fishplates which solder very easily, not everyone's choice I am aware but by droppers are from fishplates. 

- As for the electrofrog turn outs I an adding droppers at the toes end of the point, and dropping the frog wire at the other end, taking each to the point motors. I don't think soldering the wires to link the middle turn out rails will be an issue as the Cobalt IP Slow Action Point motors are very good, the piano type wire that changes the point direction, I feel is very positive.

 

Thanks again everyone for your help and suggestions it is really appreciated.