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Chippenham - The Work Bench


Bluemonkey presents....
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13 hours ago, Bluemonkey presents.... said:

I have a stash of Smiths 3 link though so will have to work through those before acquiring more Slaters although the cattle wagons may see the end of that stash, possibly.

 

Mean while a herd of zombie cattle transform to near mortals again.

 

   DSCF0376.JPG.60363923123053b75af2d35804012628.JPG                         DSCF0377.JPG.cb4ff5bb8e32f6f5de5587cc88d8e4a3.JPG  Once I fixed a few broken legs

 

(no flash scraping) give a blast of primer. Then on to the base coat.

 

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Never seen such disciplined cattle before :) 

 

Your cattle wagons will be quite a sight when they're all loaded up, Matt. Perhaps the longest train ever modelled of fully loaded Mex'es?

 

PS: Can I ask if the Slaters' 3-links are magnetic? I've grown tired of the Smiths ones but any alternative must work with my S&W magnets.

 

Edited by Mikkel
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13 hours ago, MrWolf said:

Good to see there's not a Friesian ( Black and white.) cow in sight!

 

They still seem to appear on layouts set before 1945, not quite a bus on a bridge, but close! 

 

There is no reason why black and white cows shouldn't appear on almost any layout. The Holstein/Friesian breed arrived in Britain in Victoria's reign, the import of them from The Netherlands was banned in 1892, because of foot-and-mouth, but the breed continued to flourish, albeit in a small way and in 1909 The British Holstein Cattle Society was formed. Importation of stock was allowed in 1914, but the breed saw its most dramatic expansion in the fifties. 

There are also several native breeds of cattle that are black and white, but perhaps not marked in the familiar way - Belted Galloway, Old Gloucester and the British White and Park cattle.

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3 hours ago, Mikkel said:

 

 

Never seen such disciplined cattle before :) 

 

Your cattle wagons will be quite a sight when they're all loaded up, Matt. Perhaps the longest train ever modelled of fully loaded Mex'es?

 

PS: Can I ask if the Slaters' 3-links are magnetic? I've grown tired of the Smiths ones but any alternative must work with my S&W magnets.

 

 

Yes loads of Mex'es. I plan at least two trains with the majority Mex with a few to add in to various other freight trains.

 

I have put mine against a magnet and unfortunately no magnetism. There are brass and I have blackened mine chemically, no sure if that would have any interference. The links are magnetic, definitely having checked the siphon C couplings on my mag strip.

 

Here's a direct visual comparison of hooks, not to tease Mikkel :good:. Slaters are those on the etch and the single is Smiths W&T version. Not the best picture sorry.

 

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Edited by Bluemonkey presents....
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2 hours ago, Mikkel said:

PS: Can I ask if the Slaters' 3-links are magnetic? I've grown tired of the Smiths ones but any alternative must work with my S&W magnets.

 

I think the links are steel but there's no reason you couldn't substitute the third link with iron.

 

Here's a flock of them - an evening's work!

 

1470834990_Slaters4mm3linkcouplings.JPG.93d9178e7bb466f063d927106efec958.JPG

 

 

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2 hours ago, Nick Holliday said:

There is no reason why black and white cows shouldn't appear on almost any layout. The Holstein/Friesian breed arrived in Britain in Victoria's reign, the import of them from The Netherlands was banned in 1892, because of foot-and-mouth, but the breed continued to flourish, albeit in a small way and in 1909 The British Holstein Cattle Society was formed. Importation of stock was allowed in 1914, but the breed saw its most dramatic expansion in the fifties. 

There are also several native breeds of cattle that are black and white, but perhaps not marked in the familiar way - Belted Galloway, Old Gloucester and the British White and Park cattle.

 

I'm not saying that there was no such thing, simply that the average ready to plant model cow is the hornless version of the German stock Friesian, which as you say became the common British dairy cow during the fifties. There were of course many other breeds of cattle in the period modelled, (The rarer and more valuable breeds would probably have had first class transport.) but for a train hauling common dairy cattle in the thirties, dun brown is the safest bet.

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I am trying to represent the Devon Red breed as I believe this would have been more common in my prototypical area and station setting period. @Compound2632 that is something I have not considered and I have not researched agricultural habits and movement of stock type which maybe I should have. The cattle in question will all be loaded and thus barely visible especially as these are 1:76 not the 1:87. certainly something to consider for cattle docks etc. Thank you.

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2 hours ago, Compound2632 said:

 

I think the links are steel but there's no reason you couldn't substitute the third link with iron.

 

Here's a flock of them - an evening's work!

 

1470834990_Slaters4mm3linkcouplings.JPG.93d9178e7bb466f063d927106efec958.JPG

 

 


heards or cattle, flocks of couplings all we need now is a flange of Baboons and a whoop of Gorillas

 

 

Edited by chuffinghell
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5 hours ago, Bluemonkey presents.... said:

The cattle in question will all be loaded and thus barely visible especially as these are 1:76 not the 1:87. certainly something to consider for cattle docks etc. Thank you.

 

Yes, hide your udders! Or re-sculpt them...

 

The smaller size of 1:87 cattle would be appropriate for bullocks anyway.

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  • 2 weeks later...

After finding myself in a state of stalemate with my cattle wagon project I find myself idly scrolling through random eBay auctions of GWR related items. The world drifts by as I desperately avoid the never ending list of DIY jobs, gardening chores and builds. My eye is caught by a glimpse of a familiar wagon outline. Click, before I know it I am on the seller's auction page reading the listing and viewing the few pictures offered. More out of interest in if/how the builder had detailed the livery but again another Rectank wagon without the full detailed livery in fact this one has none which in a way is more attractive. If you recall a while ago I commissioned Simon owner of Old Time Workshop to create some Warflat transfers so I could model a specific picture I found of a train on the Calne Bunk. Whilst researching and drawing up the details I also did some work on WWI Rectank wagons as these were also prominent in WWII and I had an idea for a WWI project to go along with the Bachmann Ambulance set and those built already Whippets. I planned for the Rectank details to be created in the same vain especially as the text style and sizes are similar just one detail that would have been different to anything already in production. Sadly we have lost contact and with no replies to my emails I will not push especially with the world the way it is currently. Alas I go back to the auction for one finally look, crack a can of cider and there it is a reckless and foolish opening bid. You have enough unfinished projects on your work bench, you Muppet! Oh well it is the opening price and bid, someone else will bid in the coming days I am sure, especially as the white metal kits (which this is built from) have been going for close to £50 and the brass ones well name your price! Well what would you know, sometimes the maiden bid is the winning bid, oops. Here we are, some of you may have seen this whilst offered, I have used the seller's pictures as it did not cross my tiny mind to do before and after pictures;

Before;

2129624041_s-l1600(1).jpg.e209213cf0caf79b0f0a13092275aa1f.jpgs-l1607.jpg.cf7f13e620afa9679fd0f15833fdb612.jpg

 

The pictures do let this wagon down as much better in real life. I wanted to add a little more detail to the wagon whilst bring it back to the Great Western. This wagon is suited to WWI as it has 5 lashing points rather than the later 9. I find myself now with a built wagon to go with the unmade kits earmarked for the project, no commissioned transfers and no prospect for them to be made, !! Well at least I have a wagon built, granted not by myself so cheating somewhat.

OK you have enough unfinished projects DO NOT make this another, get on. Brushes, paint and ink washes out. The decking and ends are wooden so out with my usual base colour (mig Faded Sinai Grey) and over a few days add thin coats off various inks (Citadel Agrax Earthshade, Nulan Oil and Reikland Fleshshade) and dry brush gunmetal (Humbrol Gunmetal) and base colour (mig Faded Sinai Grey). The metal body was given a coat of GWR grey (Vallejo Anthracite Grey), solebar and bogies black (Vallejo Premium Colour, Black). Unfortunately in my rush excitement I did not fill the gap between the wagon bed and sides (pic2). Once seen I could not get past it so had to fill it, thus having to repaint the wooden floor as the slight overspill of filler meant the colours did not match so repeat the lengthy process. This time not as effective but passable.

The wagon is destined to be loaded with a Whippet tank circ 1918 so some of the lashes needed to be positioned, additionally the wagon I have selected to model from pictures also has bars running between the first to lashes each end and has an odd plank looking thing under the solebar resting along the wires and the central jacks. More research to try and discover what this is and how Whippets were secured when loaded i.e. how many chains and lashing points would have been used, Also do I have enough of any on sort of transfer to be able to fulfill the livery with the obvious exception of the detail I was most wishing to have commissioned, this being the 'on' and 'off ' labels with a curved directional arrow. 

Lets hit the books...........................................................................

 

Edited by Bluemonkey presents....
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An enjoyable read Matt, it's re-assuring to know that these e-bay accidents can happen to other people too :)

 

Nice work to get it finished so soon too. 

 

 

 

 

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.................................... I had originally thought that the 'beams' could be something to do with the wedges used to place under tank tracks or vehicle wheels to stop movement on the wagon especially as my research showed these 'wedges' were marked for specific wagons including the running number, a further detail I had hoped to capture with my commission. This picture is one of the final pictures I found clearly detailing the description on the 'wedge' as well as providing enough detail of the other item of interest under the solebar (bottom left), (picture from the internet, various sources). I think I found the description in the cation for this as well. Not as I first thought the unused planks (evidently here) but chain boxes and no doubt other storage.

 

525983348_Tankstopblocklettering.PNG.090d032aded28cd54dc542cf0303b1e6.PNG

 

These are not common to all or seemingly the majority hence my confusion and what turned out to be a lengthy enquiry.

My chosen vehicle for this model is running 17313 this did have the added chain box detail but not sign of the wedges. Additional though it had rails between the two lashes either end of the wagon. These will need inserting. A touch of brass wire will sort that once the transfers are in place.

 

As I was checking the filler level was not too high I noticed the running height of the wagon was uneven. maybe twisted during transit to it's new home? I gingerly set about correcting the twist and just as I was happy a bogie well apart. Luckily it had literally fallen apart rather than the normal snapping or bending out of proportion. An easy fix and a little more paint but this had me thinking!! I tried the other bogie and yes it also just came apart, so this was rebuilt and corrected the ride height. Can the other smaller details be manipulated the same way? Pliers, a little care and a little luck (for once) and yes they can. So the buffers were re-positioned as to the lashing points. Four now pointing up to enable a load to be lashed down, 5 corrected to hang down instead of the slight angle and one moved slightly to allow room for the full number, tons and tare to be positioned as per prototype picture.

 

Now for the dreaded transfers I found two appropriate sets. First and my preferred completely disintegrated on placing. The second set worked just fine, lucky for me as I have had numerous problems with my transfers sets. Brass wire measured, cut, painted and inserted. Now for those chain boxes. Honestly the things we do sometimes is it for sanity or is it insanity?

Plasticard and tinfoil are key. Plasticard to make up the boxes (each side specific as the measurements are slightly different) and then then foil carefully cut to make to angle brackets.

 

DSCF0398.JPG.a2d80b69714c233f29a74a4084bf746f.JPG    

 

Primer then the rivets for the brackets. Overall paint GWR grey and ink washes for the interior. Surely you need something in those boxes to remind you what they are for?! With some fine chain added and tarps produced from the same tin foil and painted then ink washed;

 

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Folded and staged the boxes can now be attached to the underside of the wagon where they will probably never really be noticed by anyone. Chain would never be left hanging out of the box but modelling licence in hope of the detail being noticed at some point allows me to. Anyway here's this finished item without the load. That will be added sometime later as I have the sleeper wagon chains to finish first and transfers. Bottom two picture a kind of before and after.

 

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DSCF0401.JPG.b22bd47d8002b349df3f6138c5397e67.JPG     DSCF0403.JPG.7f379671a948c19991e118ef3b822bd9.JPG

 

I have now promised myself and the boss, no more until ALL the cattle wagons are finished along with other projects on the bench. If that means no more modelling ever then so be it. :bo_mini:

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

With the arrival of some of the final transfers and the wagons loaded with beasts I pushed to get the few livery complete ones 'weathered'. After using the sponge and brush that accompanies the Tamiya weather powder sets I fell up on a silicon brush set from. In the hope these would prove more robust and somewhat allow more precision when adding the powders a set was purchased, I could not find them sold individually. This is what was used to add the filth;

 

DSCF0410.JPG.cec682110a41229ed9fe1316c64ef6f9.JPG        The two main colours used were mud and rust with a little sand at times. 

 

Having already used the powders for the first five heavily lime washed wagons I used the same methods for the wagons with less lime wash and none at all. My idea for the lime wash is I have a number that can either be used for earlier period trains or slightly later having not received the clean. Then I have some with less lime wash being those wagons during the transition of lime use and the discontinuing of the practice, then the rest without the wash but still with 'in use' filth. Incorporating wagons during the 1920's.

 

Back to the rubber brushes. The brush handles themselves feel long and wider than standard paint brushes although no overly. The silicon end feels secure in metal holder and comes in various shapes producing an interesting array of angles that can be used to the direct the powders. These may also be used to add very fine paint detailing marks and possible with practice/skill make graduated ink washes in a similar way to a chisel tip marker pen. As you can see from the picture the powers do seem to stain the silicon even after a good water wash and wipe. I tried each brush, they all felt well balanced and easy to grip. The silicon picks up the powders very nicely without the need to turn upside down and where you place the brush is where the pigments are deposited without the drop or spread when using a traditional brush. The pigment spread when making the stroke movement is something to get used to. It is nothing like a liquid, which sounds obvious but when using a brush mentally you expect a liquid, or at least I did (constantly!). A liquid gradually runs out of colour during the stroke whereas the rubber places the pigment and you have to spread it which works well on flat or slightly detailed surfaces and 'normal' brushing actions work but on more raised areas i.e. rivets, dabbing and pushing the pigment works better but means you need to reload more often. Cleaning, I used water and a cloth to wipe in order to use straight away without adding water to the pigments or spreading them on the models with water. As previously noted you can see staining of the silicon but this did not seem to transfer even when used in the light sand colour after using rust.

Overall impression is a decent set of brushes well made, seemingly hard wearing although time will tell, nicely balanced in the hand and transfer of pigment good and easy to control. With more practice I think these can be a useful addition to the brush set although it is a shame they do not seem to be available individually but at £8 for a set of 5 brushes who can argue as one decent 'hair' brush can set you back nearly that.

 

You can see for yourself the results although this does also take into account my lack of skill in using and weathering. I also give you the three degrees of lime wash application as described earlier catering for the 1920's period throughout;

 

DSCF0411.JPG.7226e3c5aec5a5cf17510c37274462ad.JPG     DSCF0412.JPG.37ef64d66c52ee646798fcdd49a8d7b3.JPG

 

From left to right I have tried to represent varying stages of use; (1) heavy lime wash with rust, muck and general duty dirt, (2) lime wash depleting as the wagons were cleaned and not reapplied with lime, muck and rusty iron work and (3) no lime wash rusty irons and a little duty dirt and muck. I will be weathering the roofs later with all my wagons once I have a large number and more practiced with different effects.

 

DSCF0413.JPG.dd499402d2ed3e28bf21b1cd2bdb52f5.JPG   DSCF0414.JPG.43ed792c86720512eda6e8b7bfb97b99.JPG

 

DSCF0415.JPG.babaa175e46b6fef9e0f2a0da5402554.JPG   Just need couplings and we are there for these next to complete the rest.

 

Apologies for the picture, the colours are a little more clear to the naked eye and do give a better overall appearance. 

 

Any comments, thoughts or experiences more than welcome. Has anyone else used these brushes?

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Many thanks for writing up your experiences with the brushes, Matt. I like the idea that the weathering powders don't spread, this sounds like a useful feature for some situations.

 

The cattle wagons look the business. The three different periods indicated by the lime wash is clever stuff. I like the way the cattle are just visible above the sides, looks real.

 

See PM for roof weathering inspiration. 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Been slow modelling recently for a few reasons but recently purchased a Colin Ashby 20T mineral kit to suit those transfers purchased in error many moons ago. makes a lovely kit, rivet details stands out very well. Had to add some long door slams/springs and a little filler to lengthen the floor. Used the Slaters finer couplings and managed to drill .55 holes in the plain ended couplings, shouldering wire through as a stop. Tried that again on another coupling hook tonight and it would not happen so went back to making a cut but not as nice presentation so not pictured, lol.

 

 

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