Chippenham - The Work Bench

[AlfaZagato]

If there was a butt seam, I'd wager there would be an additional gusset.

 

Oddly, I don't note evidence of either in @Mikkel's photo.

[Bluemonkey presents....]

OK here's a couple of pictures for the tarp itself, from yum yum to covering. Unfortunately the prized item from the wrapper was consumed last Christmas but I have a stash of the wrappers with this sort of thing in mind.

Here goes, boring and straight forward but may be of some use to others. The actions are quick but you really do need to allow things to dry between stages so can take a few days to complete. Better doing a batch of tarps rather than just the one as I am doing. Sorry about the first pictures not sure what happened as same place, light etc as the others.

 

   Here we have the original incorrect tarp with it's humble beginnings to the right. Also here we have the cattle wagon that it will be covering. I have replaced the original roof with a plasticard substitute, shown by the other wagon that is waiting for specific livery details to arrive. I did this as the wagon is always to be covered thus providing a spare roof for any future requirements.

 

   Carefully cut away the clear plastic, best with scissors rather than a knife as this can tear the thin plastic and foil.

 

   Paint tends not to adhere to these wrappers very well. I used Halfords rattle can primmer, 2 coats.

 

  Painting; The original tarp I used Mig Faded Sinai Grey 0066 and Citadel Agrax Earthshade wash. The new GWR one I am using Railmatch GWR Freight Grey and Citadel Nuln Oil. The above picture shows the tarp after receiving two coats of Railmatch and during the drying stage. Railmatch paint is considerably thicker than Mig and Vallejo so I will have to wait and see what happens when the sheet is cut to size and manipulated over the wagon. This may cause considerably more cracking than the other paints but either way easily repair/disguised with a tiny more paint and wash to cover. In fact sometimes this has the added benefit of adding more wrinkles and crease lines.

 

  

 

The paint pot picture (GWR) is again still drying but has received a heavy coat of Nuln Oil wash.

 

After 24hrs drying here's the sheet ready for (hopefully) some further detailing. I plan to use some very fine polyester thread (painted and inked) to represent the seams and some silk threads, painted, for the ropes. Not sure of the eyelet detailing as yet, this may have to be omitted using the modellers compromise.

 

  Fingers crossed the threads work. If not will have to obtain more wrappers to try again 

 

 

 

[Mikkel]

Very nice result Matt, looks like I need to raid the sweet shop  Some will argue that it should be darker - the new ones certainly were - but I think your grey shade is a good way to avoid that slightly too pristine look that many of our sheets end up with.

 

 

[Mikkel]

On 15/10/2021 at 10:06, Compound2632 said:

[snip] with 8" taken up by the seams - 2" overlap at each. Or do we see some sort of but seam?

 

21 hours ago, AlfaZagato said:

If there was a butt seam, I'd wager there would be an additional gusset.

 

Oddly, I don't note evidence of either in @Mikkel's photo.

 

Does this help? Another crop from a sheet shop photo.

 

 

I'm a bit confused by the small bit of seam in the middle of the sheet by the way, perhaps a repair.

 

Edited October 16, 2021 by Mikkel

[Bluemonkey presents....]

That's a great picture @Mikkel I have tried the polyester thread for a seam but after viewing your picture I think it is too proud. 

 

The thread was glued into place after painting and ink wash. Then the glue spots on the sheet touched up with freight grey, followed by a two washes of nuln oil. First was a complete sheet the second just touching the threads.. Now much darker as a result. Needs another 24hr drying period to ensure fully dry then will have to compare the result with pictorial evidence however I already fear it is too thick. The thread is also straight and parallel with each other, the second picture has the foil distorted. 

 

  

[Mikkel]

I love experiments like these. Possibly one of the first attempts ever to model the seams in a GWR wagon sheet?

 

As you say it may be too pronounced, I can't recall the seams being noticeable in photos of sheets in use, e.g. here: https://www.warwickshirerailways.com/gwr/gwrms758a.htm

 

Edited October 16, 2021 by Mikkel

[Compound2632]

Bad news, the seams should run longways not crossways! As @AlfaZagato suggested, five 21 ft lengths of yard-wide canvas.

[Bluemonkey presents....]

13 hours ago, Compound2632 said:

Bad news, the seams should run longways not crossways! As @AlfaZagato suggested, five 21 ft lengths of yard-wide canvas.

 

Ah nuts, not to worry we are still in development after all. This will have to be amended on the next effort. The foil part of the wrapper is just under 6cm so almost perfect width.

 

Dry brushed the sheet with more freight grey and appears to have 'flattened' the seams appearances. Here is the result.

 

 

I like the outcome but I agree with @Mikkel that the seams are never visible in the photographs and therefore they are highly unlikely to have been visible to the naked eye from any 'normal' distance. There is a danger here to start creating something overly obvious because we know it was there rather than modelling what we see. 

 

I have another idea to try before it is accepted that realistically the seams would not be visible and to move on to attempting the numbering. This will require two wrappers in order to create one sheet. The idea to actually manufacture a sheet as if it was real. 5x individual lengths fixed together. Hopefully the act of fixing these sheets together will provide as more realistic but lease obtrusive seam appearance.

 

[Bluemonkey presents....]

 

Edited October 17, 2021 by Bluemonkey presents....
Duplicate post

[Bluemonkey presents....]

Second version is now drying. This will need to be an all nighter. I cut 5 lengths and then fastened back together with the slightest overlap. this required further touching up and two more washes as well. Should I make another or more I would cut and fix before priming. The ink washes have highlighted the overlaps and I hope the pictures shows give a lovely impression of a seam, maybe not the correct seam as the pictures show but a seam nonetheless. This is a lot less raised than the previous attempt with thread and if the overlaps start each side at the centre, outwards then generally the naked eye only sees the 'seams' nearest and not those on the other side. These pictures are taken from either side.

 

   

 

Here's a group shot for comparison. Top being the initial oily tarp which will be used for the military WW1 tank loads. Left to right; Version 2 as pictured above, Version one with thread seams and a spare.

 

     

 

Now to try and get the numbering and lettering right as well as the positions! Happy for any pointers please. I see from the pictures that the GW appears to be at the wagon ends only with the tarp number on all 4 sides with a date symbol (thank you @Compound2632 for this insight) on the right and in red on the left but have only seem this on one side (not the red).

Edited October 17, 2021 by Bluemonkey presents....
extra info

[Bluemonkey presents....]

It has been a while searching and not finding anything of use regarding the finer details to tarpaulins and wouldn't you know it, after being side tracked by the arrival of Siphon C transfers and a DAMO B kit to resurrect I found a couple of decent tarpaulin pictures. Oh well book marked for later but I do spy seams on them  Back to the transfers first!

[Mikkel]

Sounds exciting (yes, I admit it, I get excited by seams in tarpaulins ). 

 

I look forward to seeing those Siphon C transfers applied.

 

 

[Compound2632]

I've made free with some artwork posted by @Ian Smith that I can't now track down on the forum; that was for c. 1905 so may not be right for your period. If you look at paper sheets available commercially, you'll see that they have GW and the number on all four sides; I think these are all correct , for a particular time period that you'd need to check.

[Mikkel]

Ian's artwork is in the Gallery section, here: 

 

[Compound2632]

Yes definitely out of period for @Bluemonkey presents.... but illustrates the principle.

[Bluemonkey presents....]

Thank you everyone. Back to the tarps and other distractions as there has been a little hick up with the transfers. I have much thinking and plotting to do. This will be my first as most likely only focused tarp so happy to put a little more work into it. I have looked at some old Smiths paper tarps I have and they seem to all have the 1930s date to them, disappointing to say the least. I appreciate my stock covers a huge time period but I still prefer to aim in general for the 20s. Oh well keep trying. 

Edited October 27, 2021 by Bluemonkey presents....

[Mikkel]

Regarding Ian's artwork, I should have mentioned that he also did a post-1903 variant which is in the same album, it's here:

 

 

Am under the weather right now but can dig out my books later to see how long these lasted, can't remember. 

 

Edited October 27, 2021 by Mikkel

[Bluemonkey presents....]

3 minutes ago, Mikkel said:

Regarding Ian's artwork, I should have mentioned that he also did a post-1903 variant which is in the same album, it's here:

 

 

Am under the weather right now but can dig out my books later to see how long these lasted, can't remember. 

Many thanks my friend. Hope it is nothing serious and you are on the mend soon. Dont worry about anything other than getting fit and well first but thank you I appreciate it.

[Mikkel]

Thanks Matt, just an old-fashioned flu.

 

The great thing about Ian's GWR tarps is that you can change the numbers and dates etc with photo editing software. It's surprisingly time consuming though, as the number is repeated so many times. My solution is to "cut" the number once, change it, and then rotate copies of the new number to suit, but even that takes time.

 

 

 

Edited October 27, 2021 by Mikkel

[Bluemonkey presents....]

Meanwhile;

 

  

[MrWolf]

I do like a bit of inventiveness. This was something that I cobbled together for removing a bronze bush from a blind hole.

 

 

Yes it was done in our kitchen, but I needed to have the crank case in the oven for ten minutes and the new camshaft bushes in the freezer.

Fortunately, the memsahib is most tolerant of such things as long as it's all clean. 

Besides, that's her engine...

[Bluemonkey presents....]

1 minute ago, MrWolf said:

I do like a bit of inventiveness. This was something that I cobbled together for removing a bronze bush from a blind hole.

 

 

Yes it was done in our kitchen, but I needed to have the crank case in the oven for ten minutes and the new camshaft bushes in the freezer.

Fortunately, the memsahib is most tolerant of such things as long as it's all clean. 

Besides, that's her engine...

 

Awesome risky but appears you have the backing required  

[MrWolf]

It's an interesting item of rolling stock you have there, I take it that the moulded roof is a little bit springy?

[Ian Smith]

7 hours ago, Mikkel said:

Thanks Matt, just an old-fashioned flu.

 

The great thing about Ian's GWR tarps is that you can change the numbers and dates etc with photo editing software. It's surprisingly time consuming though, as the number is repeated so many times. My solution is to "cut" the number once, change it, and then rotate copies of the new number to suit, but even that takes time.

 

 

 

Mikkel,

I left the numbers on the bottom of the artwork for that very reason, I usually make up the required number in the blank area, the copy and paste from there, rotating on sheet as necessary to overlay the original numbers.

Ian

PS. I can’t remember how long either version remained in service, but for my circa 1906 period I use both for variety - perhaps I should change my timescales to c.1902-06 

[Bluemonkey presents....]

23 hours ago, MrWolf said:

It's an interesting item of rolling stock you have there, I take it that the moulded roof is a little bit springy?

 

Unfortunately I have to make the roof from plasticard as it did not have one to start with  The roof curve is quick something.