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  • RMweb Gold

Wow, you are really scaling up production! I've never in my life seen so many siphons. And all brass too. Looks like the treasury's bullion vault :)

 

Must be very satisfying, I remember the kit as a pleasing build, with only the small fittings being a little fiddly.

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Love'em. All things like that mainly milk transport though.

 

I do however have something a little different that I started a while back and got some help with on another thread;

 

DSCF9864.JPG.9128cdefb8e9682985cca7aeaa061929.JPG  

 

Was going to have paint one with black irons and one completely brown (body) as if repainted some years later but like d the black so much decide...……..

 

DSCF9865.JPG.e367f2652f0608e3c6aafa4427d0126e.JPG

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Found the thread, some interesting points about black ironwork.

 

Since we can't know for sure, I like your idea of doing one in each livery. That way, when someone says "I think you'll find...", you can just point to the other one and say "Well it's not that simple you see." :)

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  • RMweb Gold

Thought, they look very tidy! I've opted to brush up on my soldering, especially after getting a new "toy" at christmas. Here's the sides folded and soldered up ready for the detailing.

 

Siphon C sides.JPG

Exclusive pic for your thread, not even posted on my own workbench yet. :D

Edited by 57xx
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21 hours ago, 57xx said:

Thought, they look very tidy! I've opted to brush up on my soldering, especially after getting a new "toy" at christmas. Here's the sides folded and soldered up ready for the detailing.

 

 

Exclusive pic for your thread, not even posted on my own workbench yet. :D

 

Forgot to mention that once the ends are located the siphon will benefit from a layer/strip along the length on each side. This bridges the natural gap between chassis and side whilst strengthening, Mikkel references this with his essay on his construction; http://www.gwr.org.uk/prosiphon.html . I also use some sprue waste to strengthen the top of all my closed wagons for added security against my heavy handed handling.

 

DSCF9866.JPG.6c2f347c194a5103fe3484a23cee1f50.JPG

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Finished (except couplings and putting the wheels back) the two open fish wagons. Fairly pleased with them, not impressed with the tie bars but will become a delicate issue if I remove and replace them so will stick with them for the time being. They certainly look better on a track with the other brown vehicles than in the pictures. 

Went for the blacked irons for both as I personally think it looks better and leaving one makes it look very obvious. Had to use to different manufacturers for the transfers but this does not overly show. Wish I could produce my own transfers as there are more details I would liked to have added but no one produces said text.

 

Here they are;

 

DSCF9870.JPG.5f971d3101953d46f535f114f6c151aa.JPGDSCF9871.JPG.1f4f692faf463d4ea334f5c91beefec5.JPG

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  • RMweb Gold

They look fantastic. Your thread is turning into a feast of brown stock, Matt :)

 

PS, the chipboard looks like Weetabix, I'm off to get some breakfast.

Edited by Mikkel
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Thank you. I have a nice little group picture of my recent brownies, I'll post when I am on the machine with the pics to load.

I think I must be about 50/50 brown/grey freight now. I have noticed from my stock that I have put the wrong g type of wheels on my low siphon (muppet), can't believe I or anyone else missed them, lol. I will have to correct this once they are out of storage as well as repainting the roofs as the varnish has already yellowed.

Since any future plans for my layout room have been seriously suspended with potential to never happen I have come up with a cunning plan "as cunning as a Fox that has just graduated from Cunning College". I believe I will be able to use the newly installed baseboard as a supporting base for another new framework/baseboard on top. I great deal of wasted time resources and money but at least I can use this rather than ripping out and destroying it. Plus I can now make the newer baseboard into smaller sections and can move it from loft to garage etc. If said cunning plan is of the highest cunningness then I will be able to make it in such away as to encompass all the important sections so will be able to directly lift my current track plan on without compromise. It will be however mean a number of baseboard sections and potential angle cuts across curved track where boards will meet, both of which I had hoped to avoid. Modelling; The art of compromises.

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Another frustrating and disappointing modelling session. Again I am missing details for the Shirescene Siphons. Two complete wagons missing all the end detailing (except door hinges). I am unable to bodge these items to supplement the kit as I did for the side door detailing.

Lesson here is to make kits near the time of purchase so anything missing/damaged can be reported for possible replacements. I. This case I purchased these at least a year ago from the suppliers so more fool me.

I decided to leave the siphons for the evening as I also managed to break both of my drill bits in opening up the door handle holes ready to fit handles. 

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  • RMweb Gold
On 07/04/2020 at 09:33, No46 said:

I also managed to break both of my drill bits 

 

I recognize that! Annoyingly, you always know just before it's about to happen. 

 

Could the end detailing be made from thin styrene or similar?

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4 hours ago, Mikkel said:

Could the end detailing be made from thin styrene or similar?

 

Thank you Mikkel, great idea. I will need to find something thinner than the styrene I have but will give it a go. The top brackets are very fiddly though. Here's a picture of each of the ends so you can see why I initially decided just to ignore the missing parts. Once painted and running probably would not notice. I do still have to insert the central open bar to complete.

I did make my own lamp irons from brass waste from these kits again the comparison can be made in the pictures.

 

DSCF9884.jpg.8e720d501261d7dd244d2fecb2c6019c.jpg

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  • RMweb Gold
On 07/04/2020 at 08:33, No46 said:

Another frustrating and disappointing modelling session. Again I am missing details for the Shirescene Siphons. Two complete wagons missing all the end detailing (except door hinges). I am unable to bodge these items to supplement the kit as I did for the side door detailing.

Lesson here is to make kits near the time of purchase so anything missing/damaged can be reported for possible replacements. I. This case I purchased these at least a year ago from the suppliers so more fool me.

I decided to leave the siphons for the evening as I also managed to break both of my drill bits in opening up the door handle holes ready to fit handles. 

 

I noticed the lack of end details the other week and was going to ask you if I was just being blind, but got sidetracked by underframe issues. My kit has no lamp irons either and at first I thought was missing door latches but I think these are just represent by some etch relief on the doors. My kit had 3 etches, two with the sides on marked S104 and a 3rd one marked S104B with most of the detail parts on.

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With thanks to Mikkel for his suggestion of replacement parts from styrene I have found some glazing thin enough and with some very sharp scissors and holding breath etc managed to cut eight shapes to represent the missing parts. Appreciate they are not the same (probably pictured the worst pair) or as fine but a decent representation and after all the are to be painted in brown so should not be too noticeable. Lower door brackets are from more off cuts from the kit sprue.

Pictures for comparison and of the final end detailing before priming and ……………………….. :drinks: After priming will look at adding some Archers rivets if necessary but this could be over kill and a waste.

 

DSCF9887.JPG.d522878d9d2e68f52fc3b4b8f114ad61.JPGDSCF9888.JPG.15d551e187e802b57b885cd5c4898357.JPGDSCF9889.JPG.44d2b1e2ece77f8427df28bb23ba617b.JPG

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  • RMweb Gold

That's a neat solution. Can't have been a lot of fun to do, but seems well worth it. As you say, any differences will be hard to spot  once painted.

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Thank you Mikkel, for your suggestion. You saved the day again. :yahoo:

Very fiddly using scissors and tweezers as fingers too large and cumbersome.

They do not seem out of place at all once primed so finished item will be fine. Don't think I am going to use any riveting detail either as it certainly will not show unless under very close inspection. 

Edited by No46
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  • RMweb Gold

Thanks for those close-up shots of the ends, Matt. I didn't realise just how many detailing parts were missing from my kit until I saw them!

 

Unfortunately I am very stalled now on mine. The more I looked at the underframe, the more I realised just how much was "wrong" with it. No trussing, V hangers in the wrong place, long springs instead of the 4'5" ones, the list goes on. I'm generally happy with minor detail discrepancies, but for some reason, this one has really triggered some modelling OCD!

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20 minutes ago, 57xx said:

Unfortunately I am very stalled now on mine. The more I looked at the underframe, the more I realised just how much was "wrong" with it. No trussing, V hangers in the wrong place, long springs instead of the 4'5" ones, the list goes on. I'm generally happy with minor detail discrepancies, but for some reason, this one has really triggered some modelling OCD!

 

Hi Ric, thanks and do you need any close ups of the Ratio chassis as built to give a reference. I may show a few easy fixes?!

 

I was also surprised by the ends, nearly as much detailing as the sides.

 

I have a heavy OCD when modelling kits especially if I have a pictorial reference. I usually find myself walking away overnight or for a day or two to have a word with myself and then it may take another week before returning to the bench. Still trying to persuade myself to get on a spray the siphons as well as the two loco bodies from way back! All I need to do is green and brown but it is never that easy is it!

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  • RMweb Gold

I've been using the Slinn & Clarke Siphon book for my reference. But that was also my downfall - when looking at it for clear end pics to check the details, I saw the GA which showed a chassis with many differences to the Mainly Trains etch I'm using. Being brass, I should be able to do some of the conversions fairly easily (e.g. moving the V hangers, adding DC levers and trussing) and just need to get some new spring castings. And buffers. All the ones supplied with my hoard of MT chassis seem to be 1'8.5" rather than the Dean 2' type.

 

Going back a few posts - using sprue to brace the insides of vans is exactly what I do with my plastic kits! Hadn't thought of it for a brass kit, but it's a great idea. I may end up making some partitions though as I'll probably be making the roof from strips of plasticard which will most likely need support in the middle.

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