BangRoad Posted January 5, 2020 Share Posted January 5, 2020 Hi all, I need your help and suggestions please... what is the best method for scribing relief into plasticard? I am trying to scribe neat planking and each result I get is atrocious. A sharp knife blade doesn’t seem to give me a deep enough effect. I’ve tried needle files and the like and end up with dreadful looking wavy lines. I know there will be some expert examples out there. Any help appreciated please!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted January 5, 2020 Share Posted January 5, 2020 many use a scrawker, which is a hook shaped blade if you run that along a ruler it makes straight and clean grooves 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Nickey Line Posted January 5, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 5, 2020 Scraperboard tools work too, available from your local art shop. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Enterprisingwestern Posted January 5, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 5, 2020 A knife blade is definitely not going to be the best way of doing planking, a knife is for cutting My way is to make a line with a scriber, lightly at first and getting deeper, then depending on whether the line needs to be parallel as in floor-boarding or tapered as in weatherboarding, use a scrawker with a suitable profile for the former and a scraperboard blade for the latter. Mike. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Kylestrome Posted January 5, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 5, 2020 And for the OP, who may not know what a 'skrawker' is: https://eileensemporium.com/index.php?option=com_hikashop&ctrl=product&task=show&name=plastic-cutter-scrawker&cid=1622&Itemid=189&category_pathway=1063 David 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Enterprisingwestern Posted January 5, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 5, 2020 This is where it gets confusing to some, me included. My interpretation FWIW; A scrawker is a hook ended implement with the same outline as above, but with a flat profile which gouges out a parallel trench in the plastic sheet. The item depicted is an acrylic cutter which seems to have morphed into a more general plastic sheet cutter, erroneously called, IMHO, a scrawker. Two different tools. Mike. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greengiant Posted January 5, 2020 Share Posted January 5, 2020 I use an Olfa laminate cutter which perfect for this job, basically it cuts out a shallow ‘V’ in the plastic. Martin 2 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
doilum Posted January 5, 2020 Share Posted January 5, 2020 My weapon of choice for all plastikard work is an Exacto#2. For scribing planks I use the backside of the blade. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Phil Parker Posted January 5, 2020 Administrators Share Posted January 5, 2020 Olfa cutter for me. In fact I use it for all sorts of jobs as my blog can attest: https://philsworkbench.blogspot.com/search?q=olfa 1 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SP Steve Posted January 5, 2020 Share Posted January 5, 2020 (edited) On 05/01/2020 at 16:05, BangRoad said: What is the best method for scribing relief into plasticard? I am trying to scribe neat planking and each result I get is atrocious. A sharp knife blade doesn’t seem to give me a deep enough effect. I’ve tried needle files and the like and end up with dreadful looking wavy lines. I know there will be some expert examples out there. Any help appreciated please!! I'm hardly an expert but my preferred tool for carrying out such a task is a T-Pin. These are used when sewing tough materials together and can be sourced from many on-line sewing outlets (around the £3.00 mark for fifty). My process is to scribe the first line, place a steel rule over it and then place a metal section equal in width to your required plank size against it before scribing the second plank and repeating as necessary (for added 'squareness' an engineers square can be used in lieu of the steel rule but I tend to cut the finished piece down to size). The beauty of this method is that by varying the width of the metal section then differing plank widths can be achieved which are parallel to one another. After I've completed the piece I then run a used stanley knife blade parallel to the lines and at 45 degrees to remove the 'lips' thrown up during the scribing process. I used to try and measure / mark out plank widths but the results I achieved never looked convincing considering the amount of effort involved in doing so. Shown below is a replacement end I've done (for a LNER grain van) using this method - the camera is a little cruel but it looks reasonable at normal viewing distance. Edited March 31, 2022 by SP Steve 3 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharris Posted January 6, 2020 Share Posted January 6, 2020 (edited) I use a Tamiya scriber - mine's an earlier version of this one https://www.tamiya.com/english/products/74091scriber2/index.htm Similar to the ones Kylestrome and Phil suggested. Edited January 6, 2020 by sharris 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tom q vaxy Posted January 6, 2020 Share Posted January 6, 2020 depending on scale, several tools & methods available. using a cutter above is more for construction than the cosmetic of showing individual boards and would certainly require a deft touch to do so, but it is very obtainable. https://www.ipmsstockholm.org/magazine/1999/11/stuff_eng_tech_scribing.htm 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BangRoad Posted January 6, 2020 Author Share Posted January 6, 2020 16 hours ago, SP Steve said: I'm hardly an expert but my preferred tool for carrying out such a task is a T-Pin. These are used when sewing tough materials together and can be sourced from many on-line sewing outlets (around the £3.00 mark for fifty). My process is to scribe the first line, place a steel rule over it and then place a metal section equal in width to your required plank size against it before scribing the second plank and repeating as necessary (for added 'squareness' an engineers square can be used in lieu of the steel rule but I tend to cut the finished piece down to size). The beauty of this method is that by varying the width of the metal section then differing plank widths can be achieved which are parallel to one another. After I've completed the piece I then run a used stanley knife blade parallel to the lines and at 45 degrees to remove the 'lips' thrown up during the scribing process. I used to try and measure / mark out plank widths but the results I achieved never looked convincing considering the amount of effort involved in doing so. Shown below is a replacement end I've done (for a LNER grain van) using this method - the camera is a little cruel but it looks reasonable at normal viewing distance. Exactly what I was trying to achieve. Have been down the route of marking out lines for plank widths but end up binning my efforts. This is simple but looks brilliantly even! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Bird Posted January 6, 2020 Share Posted January 6, 2020 Personally I would avoid the hassle and buy planked Plastikard from Slaters 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ROSSPOP Posted January 6, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 6, 2020 11 hours ago, sharris said: I use a Tamiya scriber - mine's an earlier version of this one https://www.tamiya.com/english/products/74091scriber2/index.htm Similar to the ones Kylestrome and Phil suggested. The best scribing tool you will ever need...even comes with a spare blade inside the handle...... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCB Posted January 6, 2020 Share Posted January 6, 2020 Watch your fingers if using a ruler as a guide for a knife blade. I Araldited a piece of about 6mm X 6mm brass right angle to the edge of a plastic ruler as a more positive guide after a stanley knife slipped and cut two of my fingers quite deeply 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharris Posted January 6, 2020 Share Posted January 6, 2020 9 minutes ago, DavidCBroad said: after a stanley knife slipped and cut two of my fingers quite deeply If you're using enough pressure to do that much damage to yourself, you're probably not scribing. You might want to invest in a non-slip metal rule. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim V Posted January 6, 2020 Share Posted January 6, 2020 1 hour ago, Les Bird said: Personally I would avoid the hassle and buy planked Plastikard from Slaters Evergreen scribed planking is a whole lot better - more stable. https://eileensemporium.com/index.php?option=com_hikashop&ctrl=category&task=listing&cid=1148&name=evergreen-v-groove-plastic-sheets&Itemid=189 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCB Posted January 6, 2020 Share Posted January 6, 2020 (edited) 28 minutes ago, sharris said: If you're using enough pressure to do that much damage to yourself, you're probably not scribing. You might want to invest in a non-slip metal rule. I was using a metal rule, the blade slipped because I was not using much pressure, Even the lightest touch from a scalpel of Stanley knife blade can do a lot of damage. The adapted ruler has lasted about 20 years so far. I actually prefer to use wood for wooden planking, for scenery and items which are not handled. I use the top and bottom surfaces of thin ply which has de laminated. Edited January 6, 2020 by DavidCBroad Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharris Posted January 6, 2020 Share Posted January 6, 2020 (edited) 21 minutes ago, Tim V said: 1 hour ago, Les Bird said: Personally I would avoid the hassle and buy planked Plastikard from Slaters Evergreen scribed planking is a whole lot better - more stable. https://eileensemporium.com/index.php?option=com_hikashop&ctrl=category&task=listing&cid=1148&name=evergreen-v-groove-plastic-sheets&Itemid=189 Sadly, they rarely exactly match the plank widths for wagons, which are often varying on a single wagon. I agree though that Evergreen's planking is higher quality (and higher priced). Edited January 6, 2020 by sharris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
burgundy Posted January 6, 2020 Share Posted January 6, 2020 You might want to try a carpenter's gauge. Let the point do the scribing and use the gauge bit to measure the distance from the straight edge. For each line, calculate the distance from the straight edge individually, or if you try to add the width of a plank to the previous measurement, you are liable to compound any errors. Hope this helps Best wishes Eric 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
doilum Posted January 6, 2020 Share Posted January 6, 2020 56 minutes ago, DavidCBroad said: I was using a metal rule, the blade slipped because I was not using much pressure, Even the lightest touch from a scalpel of Stanley knife blade can do a lot of damage. The adapted ruler has lasted about 20 years so far. I actually prefer to use wood for wooden planking, for scenery and items which are not handled. I use the top and bottom surfaces of thin ply which has de laminated. Although others use them with success, I have always thought the Stanley blade to be a bit too industrial for fine detail modelling. I probably own a good half dozen and, like the angle grinder, occasionally find them useful for work on plywood or hardboard. My tip for cutting on a steel rule is to stick a length of quality masking tape (frog tape) to the back. This has lasted years and has saved several fingers. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim V Posted January 6, 2020 Share Posted January 6, 2020 1 hour ago, sharris said: Sadly, they rarely exactly match the plank widths for wagons, which are often varying on a single wagon. I agree though that Evergreen's planking is higher quality (and higher priced). I forgot to say in my recommendation, that scribing plasticard can result in curling the sheet. That was my comment about stability, the Evergreen stuff stays flat. I will concede it may not come in all flavours of width, but the OP doesn't mention wagons ... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharris Posted January 6, 2020 Share Posted January 6, 2020 (edited) 36 minutes ago, Tim V said: I forgot to say in my recommendation, that scribing plasticard can result in curling the sheet. That was my comment about stability, the Evergreen stuff stays flat. I will concede it may not come in all flavours of width, but the OP doesn't mention wagons ... Indeed, I actually use that property, scribing the inside of wagon roofs to make them curve more easily. I only happened to mention wagon plank widths because that's what I use my scriber for most. When it's a problem, you may be able to balance out any curvature by scribing the other side. Edited January 6, 2020 by sharris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim V Posted January 6, 2020 Share Posted January 6, 2020 As you mention it, I heavily scribe the back of those Will's type stone sheets to bend them. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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