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Hornby APT (2020 tooling)


PaulRhB
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11 minutes ago, Roddy Angus said:

 

Wonderland have a large physical shop in the centre of Edinburgh.

 

Best wishes

 

Roddy

Ah fair enough, seems strange their home page states "ONLINE MODEL SHOP" in big letters then!

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1 minute ago, spamcan61 said:

Ah fair enough, seems strange their home page states "ONLINE MODEL SHOP" in big letters then!

 

I suspect that is just poorly worded, but may be designed to separate the physical and online shop for some reason.  I know that sometimes online discounts have to be asked for in the shop as they don't automatically reduce the prices for walk-in customers.

 

Roddy

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First impressions, it seems a nice model, not 100% on the beige colour seems a bit yellow, but i have not seen a real APT in period.

 

The power car pantographs are very fragile, will a 3rd party release a better articulated robust scale panto???

 

Seems strange to only provide one powered, power car. Have people tried a full set on a incline at scale speed?

 

Is the power car city of Derby going to be released seperatly?

 

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Received my 7 car set today - really impressed with first impressions (wasn't thinking about the cost while I unpacked it)

I have a DCC circuit so to insert 3 chips was a pain because there is 0.000 space in there once you have to force  the wiring loom in.

 

My retailer tested the power car before it was sent out and it ran fine on its own but once the trains were assembled (and those clip couplings are not easy to put together) horrible noises started coming from the motor car.

After testing it was found one bogie was not receiving any torque.

 

So then disassembly had to begin and found one of the coupling shafts was disconnected - and I have to say re-insertion was NOT easy.

I also found the suppressor was not soldered together -only held together by shrink wrap, okay not a big deal until it comes lose and falls into the movement. I also saw the body clips were broken on on side - I am not that hand fisted so I assume during assembly.

Also The pantograph broke all too easily during disassembly at the connection between base and insulators.

 

This would all be unsolvable by a customer who did not know what is going on and how to fix it. I guess I just was unlucky with this purchase - we shall see how it all goes when reassembled and run in

 

I want to go and have a cup of tea now but I better get it assembled before I lose all the screws....

 

 

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Okay - Hornby you owe me back an hour of my life, everything seems to be back together again and working properly. The pantograph was okay as the insulators are part of the bogie support and so the pantograph assembly is supposed to be separate from it  - I guess the glue was less effective on mine when put together. The pantograph must have been a nightmare to assemble at the factory.

 

So everything is now running smoothly and quietly on flat second radius track with 8 cars - I have to say I am impressed at how the motor car doesn't derail the leading the coaches;  I'm not sure about my inclines - will be testing that later.

 

Finally I have to say, if you don't have a magnetic screwdriver - you are going to find reassembly challenging.

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Arrived today from Kernow Model Shop.

 

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Managed to squeeze some decoders into the NDM cars (both powered*) and fitted 6 pin decoders with 8 pin harnesses into the DTS cars (* second powered NDM obtained separately as a swap for the non-powered version).

 

Only three of the 14 cars will fit on the photo track.

 

Cheers

 

Darius

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8 minutes ago, Darius43 said:

Arrived today from Kernow Model Shop.

 

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Managed to squeeze some decoders into the NDM cars (both powered*) and fitted 6 pin decoders with 8 pin harnesses into the DTS cars (* second powered NDM obtained separately as a swap for the non-powered version).

 

Only three of the 14 cars will fit on the photo track.

 

Cheers

 

Darius

Who did you convince to swap with? Presume someone's just displaying and happy with no power? 

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Took delivery of ours this pm and have only played with the powered car so far. The design of the bodyshell fitting is as bad as the 80’s version, but with added screws!

 

Sorry to say, if you want to fit sound, as we do, it’s going to be a hardwire job, absolutely no space to get the wires and plug to the socket from inside the bodyshell.

 

As for the pantograph, it doesn’t work at all correctly, and would need ‘’posing’’and gluing to stay up!

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42 minutes ago, kylegordon said:

Well, on the half hour running in period the internals of the NDM have seemingly exploded.

 

Best viewed with sound. 

 

Disclaimer: the carpet is a work surface :lol:

 

 

 

 

 

 

That sounds similar to the problem I had - see post 955.

Are the wheels only moving on one bogie?

One of the drive shafts may be disconnected 

 

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9 minutes ago, letterspider said:

 

That sounds similar to the problem I had - see post 955.

Are the wheels only moving on one bogie?

One of the drive shafts may be disconnected 

 

Might well be that then, it is only one bogie driven and it does sound like a spinning shaft on the floor or sides of the vehicle.

 

I'll open it up once I finish fitting this decoder to the APT-P 1980 version :-)

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I had a second evening of running of my set tonight, and a couple of notes.

 

1) The pickup wipers cause a LOT of LOUD screeching. This will need remedying.

 

2) With two motor cars, it draws a lot of current, and keeps tripping our controller unit.

 

3) ... On a flat layout, you don't need two motor cars. I swapped in the dummy to my 14 car set, and it ran fine with just one motor. So try it with just one motor, before buying a second NDM.

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Big thanks to @letterspiderfor the hint and @PaulRhBfor the opening guide. I took it a step further and had to take part of the chassis apart to put the propshaft back in.

 

Take the top off as per @PaulRhBguide at

Squeeze the pins and detach the bogie from the frame.

 

Then split the frame. Take the two screws out that hold the frame to the bottom half on the affected end, and loosen the two screws on the other side so that you get a bit of play. Carefully shoogle it until the frame splits in half in a rotating fashion so that it comes off *both* the locating pins. Lay it to the side so that the wiring can stay on.

 

Now put the propshaft back in. Make sure the wires stay on the correct sides of the propshaft otherwise they'll be too tight when it comes to reassembly. It's a loose fit in the motor end, and the universal joint yokes clip into place on the bogie end. This is where mine had come loose, or was never fully attached. Push the bogie until the UJ yoke clicks into place.

 

Line up the frame, clip the bogie in, screw the frame back together and tighten the opposing end back up, and it's time to put the body and the pantograph back on.

 

Bonus points for finding a random machine thread screw magnetised to the top of the motor when you take the lid off.

 

 

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7 hours ago, letterspider said:

 

 

Finally I have to say, if you don't have a magnetic screwdriver - you are going to find reassembly challenging.

 

Or a tiny blob of blutac (or similar) on the end of the screwdriver to hold the screw on.......

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1 minute ago, newbryford said:

 

Or a tiny blob of blutac (or similar) on the end of the screwdriver to hold the screw on.......

If you have a magnet already, stroke it down the side of the screwdriver near the tip several times and it will magnetise the screwdriver itself.

 

Old hard drives are a great source of powerful magnets.

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4 hours ago, kevpeo said:

Took delivery of ours this pm and have only played with the powered car so far. The design of the bodyshell fitting is as bad as the 80’s version, but with added screws!

 

Sorry to say, if you want to fit sound, as we do, it’s going to be a hardwire job, absolutely no space to get the wires and plug to the socket from inside the bodyshell.

 

As for the pantograph, it doesn’t work at all correctly, and would need ‘’posing’’and gluing to stay up!

Just fitted one with three 8 Pin decoders, the powered car has a standard V5, why do Hornby not learn anything from past errors, it can be done but it has been designed (Re DCC Sound) by designers who have not got a clue sadly, with this APTp model sadly following in the tradition of the Class 71 and the Class 87.

It is such a shame in 2022 we have this sort of design errors, over and over again.

 

The website will be updated over the weekend with info on what we have done here.

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9 minutes ago, PaulRhB said:

U sometimes have mad ideas when you spot bargains . . . 
 

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Can you show the gap between vehicles from side on please? The idea had crossed my mind too...

 

Andi

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9 minutes ago, Dagworth said:

Can you show the gap between vehicles from side on please? The idea had crossed my mind too...

 

Andi


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big isn’t it?

 

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Foam isn’t going to cut it!

 

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But with a custom coupling it should be ok. I’m going to do some clearance tests on curves and then make a solid bar coupling with a pin through the screw hole in the bogie. 

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