hornby 2020 Hornby A2/2 and A2/3 (2020 Range)

[TravisM]

I hope Hornby get the colours and details right on the second run due in December.  They’ll need a serious talk with production team if they don’t.

[robmcg]

1 hour ago, atom3624 said:

Hi Rob,

 

Glad you're as happy as I am with my A2/2.

I notice the Peppercorn B A2, like my A2 Blue Peter has a considerably richer green.

The H A2/2 green is close, but pretty weird, and the lining doesn't help.

 

Glad yours runs like mine - brilliantly!

60505 seems to have problems with the running boards 60501 with its different sanders doesn't have - straight as a die - but horribly flimsy.

 

I'm working on a H Lord Nelson at the moment - how different that is!!

Colour is pretty good and build is superb.  Pity the motor is pathetic, or it is on mine - always overheating to the point of smelling badly once running at 2/3 power for more than 5 minutes.

 

Inconsistent build quality should be addressed, and to be honest as far as the company reputation is concerned irrespective of price - it should look right, feel right and go well.

 

Al.

 

Amen to that.  Tony Wright has a CotN now on Little Bytham and his is a good un too.

 

As to the green, it responds well to weathering as landscapes has shown on the 64B layout thread with PDK kit-built 60510 close to his 60501, he took this astonishingly nice photo and I did a slight bit of tone and saturation editing here and there, but my, doesn't the green respond well to a bit of thoughtful finishing!

 

 

Please note that this photo has been edited in tone, brightness, saturation,  but not in any way as to details of any kind.

 

Photo by landscapes, altered as described by me.

 

This afternoon I may well be opening a TMC-weathered R3831 ToF 60505, marked as 'QC-passed' and currently shrouded in it's plastic shroud, what could be more exciting? It even had a hand-written note on the box saying that there had been a paint flaw on the model's tender and this had been repaired (with something or other, I forget)   and this was the twenty quid 'value weathering'!  Bringing the cost for we outside europe to UKP168....

 

Onwards and upwards!

 

 

 

 

[robmcg]

Just opened an R3831 A2/2 60505 'Thane of Fife' today, and this one had received 'value weathering' from TMC , UKP20. No connection, occasional customer.

 

 

Wow!

 

 

Even the little handrails above where the front steps go (supplied not yet fitted) are just as on prototype photos.

 

This will be treated to further weathering, it runs well.  Unloved denzions of the ECML HERE WE COME.

 

Now if only I could get that green as good as landscapes' 60501... 

 

Photo taken in natural window afternoon light, no other light. No editing beyond cropping and re-sizing.

Canon EOS-M, Aperture priority, F29, 13 secs, ISO 100, Focal length 28mm on 18-55mm kit lens.

 

   

 

Edited February 20, 2021 by robmcg
addition

[Black 5 Bear]

11 hours ago, jools1959 said:

I hope Hornby get the colours and details right on the second run due in December.  They’ll need a serious talk with production team if they don’t.

I wouldn't bet on it Jools.

When you look at the King class, Hornby had more than enough opportunity to rectify the sludge green they pass off for BR/GWR livery.

Edited February 20, 2021 by Black 5 Bear

[Ian Hargrave]

9 minutes ago, Black 5 Bear said:

I wouldn't bet on it Jools.

When you look at the King class, Hornby had more than enough opportunity to rectify the sludge green they pass for off for BR/GWR livery.

Which I’m afraid is true. I have raised this particular issue as indeed have others over the same to be told that there’s nothing wrong with it. You know there is.I know there is.Many others know there is.I have called it sagebrush green,the nearest description I can approach to Hornby’s rendition in many but not fortunately all cases of their BR models. The problem is highlighted for me currently by a quick dip into one of Sam’s offerings.He has conducted a straw poll of opinions of the H green.His findings IIRC are that 52% believe got it right.Who they are or what their credentials and critical faculties are is a matter of conjecture. What we are left with in many instances are models with a lifeless overall impression and sorry Rob if this offends you but that to my eyes includes the above.

 

A final thought.I did live through that era and saw very,very many locomotives dressed in BR green.I am a good deal older than most members of this forum but my faculties are still intact and my memory is reasonably sharp.

Hornby can get it right because they have in the past.Much depends on the next and imminent arrival but I don’t realistically believe change will be this soon.if at all.Let’s at least hope for no broken,warped or distorted models.

[Market65]

Good morning, everyone. I’ve been working on my Thane Of Fife, and the following things may be of help, especially with the warped footplates. I’ll illustrate with a few photo’s what I’ve been doing.

 

Firstly the thing that has fixed the warped footplates on both sides regardless of the sandbox ‘behinds’. As you can see in the photo’, there is a black rectangular projection going up, from footplate level, into a recess into the bottom of the boiler. Mine were not glued, and I’m as sure as I can be they should be glued. On gluing them into that recess the footplate became both level and very firm. It now looks and feels like it should have done from taking the model out of the box.

 

The next thing is the reversing rod, which was not glued where it disappears into the bottom of the footplate. It was not glued into place, and did not seem right. I’ve now got it glued, and here’s a photo’ which I hope helps to show that it is no longer just hanging loose in mid air underneath the footplate.

 

Finally, the cab interior. The seats were leaning in to the centre of the cab, and the reversing handle, forgive me if that is not the correct name for it, was leaning, at a grotesque angle outwards to the cabside. So I cut out all three parts, filed them, underneath, and also sanded them. Then I cleaned up the places where they go, and on gluing them back in place, it made a big improvement for the cab. Here’s the photo’ of how the cab interior now is after that work.

 

So, I hope you’ll all find what I’ve done, so far, of both use and interest. I’ve got a bottle of BR Brunswick green and some transfers for the lining out. That looks like being the next project for this model.

 

Best regards,

 

 Rob.

 

[Brocp]

7 hours ago, robmcg said:

Just opened an R3831 A2/2 60505 'Thane of Fife' today, and this one had received 'value weathering' from TMC , UKP20. No connection, occasional customer.

 

 

Wow!

 

 

Even the little handrails above where the front steps go (supplied not yet fitted) are just as on prototype photos.

 

This will be treated to further weathering, it runs well.  Unloved denzions of the ECML HERE WE COME.

 

Now if only I could get that green as good as landscapes' 60501... 

 

Photo taken in natural window afternoon light, no other light. No editing beyond cropping and re-sizing.

Canon EOS-M, Aperture priority, F29, 13 secs, ISO 100, Focal length 28mm on 18-55mm kit lens.

 

   

 

I'm sorry to say Rob but that "weathering" job isn't worth £20 mate. Looks like that crappy factory weathering Hornby used to put on models in the early to mid 2000s.

[railroadbill]

 

Here's my one. Been oiled as per instructions, run light each way hour or so.   Now on running in turn on a mid-day up stopping train.

 

 

Return working. Sea Eagle on up express.  (The A1 does have orange on the boiler bands rather than dark red so Hornby can do that...)

Haven't added the separate details from the  pack yet.

 

Bought mine from Cheltenham Model Centre,  who checked it and ran it before sending it so that I received it in perfect condition.  

It runs very well indeed, very quiet. It will also run very slowly indeed (on DC) to the extent that you can hardly see it 's moving at all. So a very good mechanism.

Lots of very fine detail, seems to have had a lot of research done on these, and there is a comprehensive history of the locos printed on the box, reads like it has been written by an expert. 

The wheels are very good, and the loco looks very impressive running along. Although in the past I've fitted flanged trailing wheel sets to  Hornby pacifics, the A2 flangeless set doesn't seem to stand out so think I'll leave that.

 

On his "Wright writes" thread, Tony Wright points out (p.2248) that a kit A2/2 professionally built and painted would cost 6 times as much as a Hornby one....

 

[landscapes]

Just now, railroadbill said:

 

Here's my one. Been oiled as per instructions, run light each way hour or so.   Now on running in turn on a mid-day up stopping train.

 

 

Return working. Sea Eagle on up express.  (The A1 does have orange on the boiler bands rather than dark red so Hornby can do that...)

Haven't added the separate details from the  pack yet.

 

Bought mine from Cheltenham Model Centre,  who checked it and ran it before sending it so that I received it in perfect condition.  

It runs very well indeed, very quiet. It will also run very slowly indeed (on DC) to the extent that you can hardly see it 's moving at all. So a very good mechanism.

Lots of very fine detail, seems to have had a lot of research done on these, and there is a comprehensive history of the locos printed on the box, reads like it has been written by an expert. 

The wheels are very good, and the loco looks very impressive running along. Although in the past I've fitted flanged trailing wheel sets to  Hornby pacifics, the A2 flangeless set doesn't seem to stand out so think I'll leave that.

 

On his "Wright writes" thread, Tony Wright points out (p.2248) that a kit A2/2 professionally built and painted would cost 6 times as much as a Hornby one....

 

Hi

 

Looks great

 

David

[Ian Hargrave]

33 minutes ago, railroadbill said:

 

Here's my one. Been oiled as per instructions, run light each way hour or so.   Now on running in turn on a mid-day up stopping train.

 

 

Return working. Sea Eagle on up express.  (The A1 does have orange on the boiler bands rather than dark red so Hornby can do that...)

Haven't added the separate details from the  pack yet.

 

Bought mine from Cheltenham Model Centre,  who checked it and ran it before sending it so that I received it in perfect condition.  

It runs very well indeed, very quiet. It will also run very slowly indeed (on DC) to the extent that you can hardly see it 's moving at all. So a very good mechanism.

Lots of very fine detail, seems to have had a lot of research done on these, and there is a comprehensive history of the locos printed on the box, reads like it has been written by an expert. 

The wheels are very good, and the loco looks very impressive running along. Although in the past I've fitted flanged trailing wheel sets to  Hornby pacifics, the A2 flangeless set doesn't seem to stand out so think I'll leave that.

 

On his "Wright writes" thread, Tony Wright points out (p.2248) that a kit A2/2 professionally built and painted would cost 6 times as much as a Hornby one....

 

 
Top lamp bracket missing ? Or is my eyesight failing ?  Glad you’re pleased. Hope Tony Wright had a good example too.No one disputes his word on this but surely it isn’t implicit in what he writes that we must accept the substandard assembly that it appears many have experienced .Hornby performance these days is up there with the best.No one doubts that I’m sure.

 

[No Decorum]

35 minutes ago, railroadbill said:

 

Here's my one. Been oiled as per instructions, run light each way hour or so.   Now on running in turn on a mid-day up stopping train.

 

 

Return working. Sea Eagle on up express.  (The A1 does have orange on the boiler bands rather than dark red so Hornby can do that...)

Haven't added the separate details from the  pack yet.

 

Bought mine from Cheltenham Model Centre,  who checked it and ran it before sending it so that I received it in perfect condition.  

It runs very well indeed, very quiet. It will also run very slowly indeed (on DC) to the extent that you can hardly see it 's moving at all. So a very good mechanism.

Lots of very fine detail, seems to have had a lot of research done on these, and there is a comprehensive history of the locos printed on the box, reads like it has been written by an expert. 

The wheels are very good, and the loco looks very impressive running along. Although in the past I've fitted flanged trailing wheel sets to  Hornby pacifics, the A2 flangeless set doesn't seem to stand out so think I'll leave that.

 

On his "Wright writes" thread, Tony Wright points out (p.2248) that a kit A2/2 professionally built and painted would cost 6 times as much as a Hornby one....

 

I’m glad you got a decent A2/2 but credit where it’s due – Sea Eagle is a lovely model of a lovely locomotive. I dread to think what the result would be like if I tried to built a kit of an A2/2.

[railroadbill]

25 minutes ago, Ian Hargrave said:

 
Top lamp bracket missing ? Or is my eyesight failing ?  Glad you’re pleased. Hope Tony Wright had a good example too.No one disputes his word on this but surely it isn’t implicit in what he writes that we must accept the substandard assembly that it appears many have experienced .Hornby performance these days is up there with the best.No one doubts that I’m sure.

 

Agree totally, Ian, that really any product should be of merchandisable  quality and fit for the purpose for which the retailer has supplied it. (Under the Consumer rights Act 2015 which is a strong piece of legislation). It's a real shame that some models, like the broken ones posted here, have been sold, and I'd certainly be very unhappy if I had one.  There are shops that check before they send, and that process would save an awful lot of consumer angst as we see here.

This customer service problem isn't just model railways, someone earlier on this thread talked about serious car problems, (been there, done that). I'm having problems with an electricity supplier at the moment, bigger company doesn't  necessarily mean better customer service....

 

Bill

[railroadbill]

1 hour ago, No Decorum said:

I’m glad you got a decent A2/2 but credit where it’s due – Sea Eagle is a lovely model of a lovely locomotive. I dread to think what the result would be like if I tried to built a kit of an A2/2.

Sea Eagle in pic is a Hornby Tornado that's been "retro'd" to a production A1. I think they come out well, (tender top is biggest chop) and without too much looking around, you can find them for 1/3rd price of an A2/2... then it's the appropriate etched name plates  and hand rails etc. I've only done Darlington built locos so far so don't need to add tender rivets...that one was already in BR green.  Loads of fun!!

[31A]

4 hours ago, Market65 said:

Good morning, everyone. I’ve been working on my Thane Of Fife, and the following things may be of help, especially with the warped footplates. I’ll illustrate with a few photo’s what I’ve been doing.

 

Firstly the thing that has fixed the warped footplates on both sides regardless of the sandbox ‘behinds’. As you can see in the photo’, there is a black rectangular projection going up, from footplate level, into a recess into the bottom of the boiler. Mine were not glued, and I’m as sure as I can be they should be glued. On gluing them into that recess the footplate became both level and very firm. It now looks and feels like it should have done from taking the model out of the box.

 

The next thing is the reversing rod, which was not glued where it disappears into the bottom of the footplate. It was not glued into place, and did not seem right. I’ve now got it glued, and here’s a photo’ which I hope helps to show that it is no longer just hanging loose in mid air underneath the footplate.

 

 

Finally, the cab interior. The seats were leaning in to the centre of the cab, and the reversing handle, forgive me if that is not the correct name for it, was leaning, at a grotesque angle outwards to the cabside. So I cut out all three parts, filed them, underneath, and also sanded them. Then I cleaned up the places where they go, and on gluing them back in place, it made a big improvement for the cab. Here’s the photo’ of how the cab interior now is after that work.

 

So, I hope you’ll all find what I’ve done, so far, of both use and interest. I’ve got a bottle of BR Brunswick green and some transfers for the lining out. That looks like being the next project for this model.

 

Best regards,

 

 Rob.

 

 

Thank you Rob for that very useful and timely post!  Mine came without a reversing rod and I have made one from scrap etch brass but was uncertain exactly how it should be fitted, so your picture is just what I needed.  I have held off from fitting it to mine pending arrival of etched nameplates (now arrived), intending to fit them at the same time.

 

In the meantime I have been attending to the tender, fitting new lamp irons.  It does have lamp irons already, but I wanted ones that I could put lamps on so I've made new ones from nickel silver strip.  In reality I suspect only the bottom middle will be used, for "Light Engine" or a tail lamp, as there is no auto coupling on the front of the loco, but I thought all four ought to look the same.  Anyway, having made them I touched them in with Humbrol BR Green acrylic paint:

 

 

I also put slabs of lead inside the body on either side of the coal space, as I thought some extra weight might be useful.  In doing these modifications I've been looking more closely at the tender, and thinking that this is a very well designed model let down in some cases by poor assembly; for example the detailing inside the coal space, and rivets round the base of the scoop hood and filler, are better than anything I've noticed on earlier models.  And there is even a representation of the hole for the single line tablet catcher which this tender carried at one time, at the front on the driver's side.

 

[Ollie K]

5 hours ago, Market65 said:

Good morning, everyone. I’ve been working on my Thane Of Fife, and the following things may be of help, especially with the warped footplates. I’ll illustrate with a few photo’s what I’ve been doing.

 

Firstly the thing that has fixed the warped footplates on both sides regardless of the sandbox ‘behinds’. As you can see in the photo’, there is a black rectangular projection going up, from footplate level, into a recess into the bottom of the boiler. Mine were not glued, and I’m as sure as I can be they should be glued. On gluing them into that recess the footplate became both level and very firm. It now looks and feels like it should have done from taking the model out of the box.

 

Best regards,

 

 Rob.

 

 

Thanks for this Rob. Just made a palpable difference to my 60505's running plate with this 5-minute job. 

 

Ollie

[Daddyman]

1 hour ago, 31A said:

for example the detailing inside the coal space, and rivets round the base of the scoop hood and filler, are better than anything I've noticed on earlier models.  And there is even a representation of the hole for the single line tablet catcher which this tender carried at one time, at the front on the driver's side.

 

That's all very well, but it comes at the expense of a focus on the bigger picture: your tender shows not just poor livery application, but what looks like a wavy footplate, and a gap between footplate and body. 

[Hilux5972]

5 hours ago, Brocp said:

I'm sorry to say Rob but that "weathering" job isn't worth £20 mate. Looks like that crappy factory weathering Hornby used to put on models in the early to mid 2000s.

Can’t say I agree. Yes it’s pretty much a uniform colour, but there is some subtle variations. There is also buffer grease, and soot deposits behind the chimney. Sure you could pay more for a fantastic paint job, but this does the job of disguising that washed out paint job. 

[Hilux5972]

I have to say I am less than impressed with the cab paintwork. Very roughly done on what is obviously a mostly moulded backhead. Gone it seems are the days when pipe work was separately fitted to the backhead. 

[Market65]

12 minutes ago, Hilux5972 said:

I have to say I am less than impressed with the cab paintwork. Very roughly done on what is obviously a mostly moulded backhead. Gone it seems are the days when pipe work was separately fitted to the backhead. 

Hi, Hilux5972. That is something else I’m going to try and rectify, those red painted pipes look especially bad - I did better than that as a small boy. And it’s, sadly, right to say that most of it is moulded. But I suppose, also, most of the cab interior isn’t seen when on the track at speed. But it’s just good to know that it’s there, all correct, regardless of that. So, out comes the paintbrush at the very least.....

 

Rob.

[Keith Turbutt]

Further to my post on 4th February when I reported top lamp brackets not fitted and loose in the box on both locos. I have just noticed that 60501 is missing the fall plate as well as the grab rail above the RHS front steps although there is evidence of glue around the empty holes. 60505 was OK in both these respects.

 

I haven't noticed anyone else mentioning a missing fall plate.

 

These are still not items that would lead me to seek a replacement as my models do not suffer from some of the other problems that have been mentioned. I should be able to source a fall plate if Hornby are unable to supply one and I can deal with the other issues. I still believe these are basically good models.

 

I've yet to test run these locos but am optimistic of good running as nobody has reported any problems here.

 

Tony Wright has mentioned that Hornby are aware of QC problems. However I fear it will be too late to rectify any similar problems on the A2/3s as reports suggest these may arrive at the end of this month in which case they will have been shipped several weeks ago. 

 

In my minds eye I have an image of a factory sweatshop assembling these models where the staff are under great pressure to meet targets. I hope I am wrong.

 

 

Edited February 20, 2021 by Keith Turbutt
typo

[Eddie the dog]

I’ve been following this thread and others  with interest for some time now and the apparent livery and quality

issues lead to me cancelling orders for 60501 and the forthcoming A2/3.

I’m sure that I read somewhere that Accurascale were considering this loco until Hornby announced theirs.

With hindsight, it’s a pity this didn’t come to pass.

I wish Hornby no Ill will, and sincerely hope that they are able to turn this particular project around.

Likewise, we have not yet seen an Accurascale locomotive in the flesh, but the quality of their products

already on the market and openness to communicate with forum members is something Hornby could learn

from.

[robmcg]

8 hours ago, Market65 said:

Good morning, everyone. I’ve been working on my Thane Of Fife, and the following things may be of help, especially with the warped footplates. I’ll illustrate with a few photo’s what I’ve been doing.

 

Firstly the thing that has fixed the warped footplates on both sides regardless of the sandbox ‘behinds’. As you can see in the photo’, there is a black rectangular projection going up, from footplate level, into a recess into the bottom of the boiler. Mine were not glued, and I’m as sure as I can be they should be glued. On gluing them into that recess the footplate became both level and very firm. It now looks and feels like it should have done from taking the model out of the box.

 

The next thing is the reversing rod, which was not glued where it disappears into the bottom of the footplate. It was not glued into place, and did not seem right. I’ve now got it glued, and here’s a photo’ which I hope helps to show that it is no longer just hanging loose in mid air underneath the footplate.

 

Finally, the cab interior. The seats were leaning in to the centre of the cab, and the reversing handle, forgive me if that is not the correct name for it, was leaning, at a grotesque angle outwards to the cabside. So I cut out all three parts, filed them, underneath, and also sanded them. Then I cleaned up the places where they go, and on gluing them back in place, it made a big improvement for the cab. Here’s the photo’ of how the cab interior now is after that work.

 

So, I hope you’ll all find what I’ve done, so far, of both use and interest. I’ve got a bottle of BR Brunswick green and some transfers for the lining out. That looks like being the next project for this model.

 

Best regards,

 

 Rob.

 

 

Thanks for that Rob, the footplate is flimsy as delivered, and not quite straight, and the reversing rods on both my examples were poorly fitted, it is great to have some guidance as to improving these shortcomings, speaking of which, I'd love to see your model with fresh paint and lining, good luck.

 

 

[Bernard Lamb]

1 hour ago, Hilux5972 said:

I have to say I am less than impressed with the cab paintwork. Very roughly done on what is obviously a mostly moulded backhead. Gone it seems are the days when pipe work was separately fitted to the backhead. 

Not to mention the different shades of green between the door and the seat.

What a brilliant photo to illustrate some of the problems.

Bernard

[31A]

2 hours ago, Daddyman said:

That's all very well, but it comes at the expense of a focus on the bigger picture: your tender shows not just poor livery application, but what looks like a wavy footplate, and a gap between footplate and body. 

 

Seriously, the tender's footplate isn't wavy at all!  It's moulded as one piece with the frames, as is usual with Hornby LNER tenders.  It's possible I hadn't attached the body to the underframe when I took the picture, and it wasn't quite seated properly which my give the impression of a gap.

 

[atom3624]

I actually think it's the tender chassis being wider than the body creating a small rim around the bottom of the body.

 

Mine's fine as well.

 

Al.