GeoffBird Posted December 21, 2021 Share Posted December 21, 2021 22 hours ago, robmcg said: Well the going rate for a R3840 W1 Hush Hush on Ebay appears to be somewhere around UKP290-300. There was one from a well-known good retailer at UKP249 free postage just an hour ago but when I refreshed the page it had gone. You've got to be quick! I have just received my R3840 here in Austria in good condition via GLS. Just one question for people to answer - there is a difference between the model and the picture on the boy, the latter showing coal rails on the tender.- Which is correct? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
robmcg Posted December 21, 2021 Share Posted December 21, 2021 (edited) 9 hours ago, micklner said: There are at least three on ebay £270 ish no bids so far on any. Interesting that the models which have been removed from packaging and photographed and are demonstrably undamaged get better prices than the unopened ones. The reverse is often the case on Ebay. Ii think you might fluke a purchase by bidding on a low reserve version, but all the 'buy now' offers are over UKP299, at a quick look just now,. Edited December 21, 2021 by robmcg Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steamport Southport Posted December 21, 2021 Share Posted December 21, 2021 10 hours ago, ikcdab said: We are going off topic, but I don't believe thats right. 7mm/3.5mm then upped to 4mm for UK models. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/OO_gauge?wprov=sfla1 I never mentioned H0 or O gauge. I'm talking about 00 gauge going by the original specifications going back well before Hornby Dublo. People in Britain didn't use millimetres, everything was Imperial. So people used fractions of inches instead. Look at an old tool set 5/32" is a common drill size and nobody would bat an eyelid using that as a measurement. I doubt anyone would even know what a millimetre was. That page is what is often wrong with Wikipedia though.... No sources. No credits. Looks like it was written by a child. Jason 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Dominion Posted December 21, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 21, 2021 53 minutes ago, GeoffBird said: I have just received my R3840 here in Austria in good condition via GLS. Just one question for people to answer - there is a difference between the model and the picture on the boy, the latter showing coal rails on the tender.- Which is correct? There was a coal rail over the corridor side of the tender but not on the left hand side. I think Hornby have this correctly modelled, for the first time on any of their LNER Pacifics (or bigger.) The LNER A1s with non streamlined corridor tenders should be the same. However, previous Hornby releases have used the same version they use with their A4s and Flying Scotsman as preserved. These were correct for those models as they had had the side fairings raised from their original build, but not correct for A1s in LNER configuration. I back dated one of mine as per Graeme Kings method which was fun to do. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium melmerby Posted December 21, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 21, 2021 1 hour ago, Steamport Southport said: I never mentioned H0 or O gauge. I'm talking about 00 gauge going by the original specifications going back well before Hornby Dublo. People in Britain didn't use millimetres, everything was Imperial. So people used fractions of inches instead. Look at an old tool set 5/32" is a common drill size and nobody would bat an eyelid using that as a measurement. I doubt anyone would even know what a millimetre was. That page is what is often wrong with Wikipedia though.... No sources. No credits. Looks like it was written by a child. Jason Will this do? http://www.doubleogauge.com/history/history.htm 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold adb968008 Posted December 21, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 21, 2021 2 hours ago, Steamport Southport said: I'm talking about 00 gauge going by the original specifications going back well before Hornby Dublo. People in Britain didn't use millimetres, everything was Imperial. So people used fractions of inches instead. Look at an old tool set 5/32" is a common drill size and nobody would bat an eyelid using that as a measurement. I doubt anyone would even know what a millimetre was. Try walking into an IT office, to answer someones pub quiz question… he asked whats the shortest distance between two mainline stations in the UK. I replied Blackfriars and City Thameslink….and added 32 Chains… the rest of the office went from kind of admiration of knowing to… “whats a chain .?”. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium melmerby Posted December 21, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 21, 2021 (edited) 1 hour ago, adb968008 said: Try walking into an IT office, to answer someones pub quiz question… he asked whats the shortest distance between two mainline stations in the UK. I replied Blackfriars and City Thameslink….and added 32 Chains… the rest of the office went from kind of admiration of knowing to… “whats a chain .?”. But is it correct? Trackmaps has 20 Chains Newhaven Harbour to Newhaven Marine was 16ch (However Marine is not open anymore) Plenty of others under 32ch Edited December 21, 2021 by melmerby Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium newbryford Posted December 21, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 21, 2021 14 hours ago, ikcdab said: We are going off topic, but I don't believe thats right. 7mm/3.5mm then upped to 4mm for UK models. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/OO_gauge?wprov=sfla1 if it's on Wikipedia then it must be correct............... 1 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold adb968008 Posted December 22, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 22, 2021 9 hours ago, melmerby said: But is it correct? Trackmaps has 20 Chains Newhaven Harbour to Newhaven Marine was 16ch (However Marine is not open anymore) Plenty of others under 32ch I’m not sure the IT guys were sharing that particular train of thought… Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
828CC Posted December 22, 2021 Share Posted December 22, 2021 15 hours ago, robmcg said: Interesting that the models which have been removed from packaging and photographed and are demonstrably undamaged get better prices than the unopened ones. The reverse is often the case on Ebay. Ii think you might fluke a purchase by bidding on a low reserve version, but all the 'buy now' offers are over UKP299, at a quick look just now,. That 'inspection charge' seems to vary between £100-£500 at the moment.... And that's without the cost of the loco! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamThomas Posted December 22, 2021 Share Posted December 22, 2021 11 hours ago, newbryford said: if it's on Wikipedia then it must be correct............... - because they read it in The Sun ! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
2750Papyrus Posted December 22, 2021 Share Posted December 22, 2021 My Hush-Hush was delivered this morning. I had ordered from Derails and asked them to delay shipment until I could be at home to receive it, which they were happy to do. Well packaged by them for Royal Mail shipment, excellent customer service and a competitive price. The model has a little bit of a tight spot at low speed, which I am sure will disappear with running in, and seems to be powerful. It is certainly an impressive beast and looks almost sinister in it's dark grey livery. But best not to look at the rear carrying wheels too closely, especially on a curve - Hornby could have done better here. What a shame the LNER did not persevere with the original locomotive. I must re-read the William Brown book. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamThomas Posted December 22, 2021 Share Posted December 22, 2021 Back to the subject. I've just watched the Sams (no connection) Trains review & thought he was very fair. I thought that the handrails & lights looked a little "heavy" but if I'm wrong then I stand corrected. TBH, I thought that the lights should work, I know they will be about as bright as a glow worm in a jamjar but personally, I would prefer that to sprung buffers (which have no useful function for the majority of modellers). As for the gap between the locomotive & the tender ? Absolutely no excuse in this day & age - a close coupling or kinetic coupling is simply a "Y" shaped drawbar & a couple of slots. The trailing bogie is not acceptable either - Hornby are still in the "0-4-0 Flying Scotsman" days in some respects. The cab detail (as are some of the other details) is very nice but could do with a crew (having said that HO European locomotives are often lacking in that respect. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr Gerbil-Fritters Posted December 22, 2021 Share Posted December 22, 2021 On 08/12/2021 at 22:03, Br60066 said: And already going bid silly cripes... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium melmerby Posted December 22, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 22, 2021 1 hour ago, SamThomas said: As for the gap between the locomotive & the tender ? Absolutely no excuse in this day & age - a close coupling or kinetic coupling is simply a "Y" shaped drawbar & a couple of slots. And looking at the instructions, it would appear it was supposed to have one. Why was it not included? However I only have one other steam loco that does have one, namely a Bachmann N15, no other Bachmann ot Hornby have one. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Hodgson Posted December 22, 2021 Share Posted December 22, 2021 On 20/12/2021 at 11:55, SamThomas said: But most North American measurements are - even their non-metric are different (such as gallons). The Texans are well-known for their bragging and exaggerating. You can only get eight and a bit gallons into a ten gallon hat. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
maico Posted December 22, 2021 Share Posted December 22, 2021 (edited) 2 hours ago, SamThomas said: As for the gap between the locomotive & the tender ? Absolutely no excuse in this day & age - a close coupling or kinetic coupling is simply a "Y" shaped drawbar & a couple of slots. The trailing bogie is not acceptable either - Hornby are still in the "0-4-0 Flying Scotsman" days in some respects. Lights and kinetic couplings for steam seem a blind spot at Hornby. The factories they use know how to do it. This Brawa designed some 20 years ago and made in China has a sprung loaded Y coupling that keeps things tight and the wires are inside it nice and neat (shown pulled out of the floor slot). The 4-wheel bogie is a simple central pivot affair. A Cartazzi axle is much harder to model. Edited December 22, 2021 by maico 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
2750Papyrus Posted December 22, 2021 Share Posted December 22, 2021 3 hours ago, 2750Papyrus said: The model has a little bit of a tight spot at low speed, which I am sure will disappear with running in, I spoke too soon. On the second circuit this afternoon, the loco suddenly stopped dead. I spotted a small screw on the track next to it which, on investigation, revealed itself to be the crank pin from the RH front driver, releasing the coupling rod. The first two pairs of driving wheels had locked solid (cause or effect?) but I did manage to free them. The crank pin appears to be undamaged and about 1.6mm in diameter, with a hexagon head. Unfortunately I don’t have a nut-runner or spanner small enough to fit. Has anyone else experienced this problem? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-BOAF Posted December 22, 2021 Share Posted December 22, 2021 38 minutes ago, 2750Papyrus said: I spoke too soon. On the second circuit this afternoon, the loco suddenly stopped dead. I spotted a small screw on the track next to it which, on investigation, revealed itself to be the crank pin from the RH front driver, releasing the coupling rod. The first two pairs of driving wheels had locked solid (cause or effect?) but I did manage to free them. The crank pin appears to be undamaged and about 1.6mm in diameter, with a hexagon head. Unfortunately I don’t have a nut-runner or spanner small enough to fit. Has anyone else experienced this problem? you could carefully screw it up with fingers, then gently use pliers to do the final half turn. Check there is no other motion bent or damaged. Also on most Hornby locos, the front and rear drivers rely on the nut itself to act as the crank pin - there is a recess below the nut head which should sit flush on the wheel, with the rod sitting over the recess between the wheel face and the nut head (this is probably a poor description). There is a risk that you clamp the rod between the nut and the wheel if you do not properly locate the rod over the recess, and then things will either jam up or just work loose again. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Ian Hargrave Posted December 22, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 22, 2021 3 hours ago, 2750Papyrus said: I spoke too soon. On the second circuit this afternoon, the loco suddenly stopped dead. I spotted a small screw on the track next to it which, on investigation, revealed itself to be the crank pin from the RH front driver, releasing the coupling rod. The first two pairs of driving wheels had locked solid (cause or effect?) but I did manage to free them. The crank pin appears to be undamaged and about 1.6mm in diameter, with a hexagon head. Unfortunately I don’t have a nut-runner or spanner small enough to fit. Has anyone else experienced this problem? A common problem with Hornby who I believe sell a dedicated hex nut spanner to deal with it. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamThomas Posted December 22, 2021 Share Posted December 22, 2021 1 hour ago, Ian Hargrave said: A common problem with Hornby who I believe sell a dedicated hex nut spanner to deal with it. In all fairness to Hornby I've had this happen on a couple of European Locomotives. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold adb968008 Posted December 22, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 22, 2021 (edited) 6 hours ago, Dr Gerbil-Fritters said: cripes... Meanwhile at the other side of the spectrum… I suspect Santas got an easy night on delivering both of these… but if Hermes cant get them to the front door in one piece, theres no hope down the chimney either, so maybe thats for the better. Edited December 22, 2021 by adb968008 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
2750Papyrus Posted December 22, 2021 Share Posted December 22, 2021 1 hour ago, Ian Hargrave said: A common problem with Hornby who I believe sell a dedicated hex nut spanner to deal with it. Thanks, just ordered from Amazon for delivery tomorrow. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Wright Posted December 22, 2021 Share Posted December 22, 2021 I hope to have the opportunity of reviewing Hornby's latest W1 in BRM. A friend brought one over today which he's just bought. It's an astonishing model. However, though I'd hoped to have given this a full blast on Little Bytham, its steps adjacent to the motion fouled the station's platform edges. These steps are way out of gauge with regard to width. Bytham's platforms were plotted from the prototype drawings we have, and everything else just sails through. Has anyone else come across this clearance problem, please? 8 1 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold zr2498 Posted December 22, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 22, 2021 7 minutes ago, Tony Wright said: I hope to have the opportunity of reviewing Hornby's latest W1 in BRM. A friend brought one over today which he's just bought. It's an astonishing model. However, though I'd hoped to have given this a full blast on Little Bytham, its steps adjacent to the motion fouled the station's platform edges. These steps are way out of gauge with regard to width. Bytham's platforms were plotted from the prototype drawings we have, and everything else just sails through. Has anyone else come across this clearance problem, please? Hello Tony Yes, I had that problem. Third time lucky getting a 'good' model. I put this post out earlier 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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