Spraying acrylics

[The Fatadder]

Looking at the weather forecast the outside temperature at the weekend is looking to be just about in range for spraying (so with the garage heaters on it will be fine), so I want to get on with spraying 37230.  The main body grey will be sprayed with an aerosol (Plastikote) along with Halfords Satin Black for the bonnet/windows, however the yellow stripe will need airbrushing.  Normally I would use Phoenix enamels for spraying, but where possible I am now trying to use acrylics.  To that end I have a bottle of Vallejo “Model Air” in a shade which I am told is a close match for warning yellow, it will be sprayed over white primer. 

 

Where I am a little unclear is the cleaning.  Normally I would blast a cup of thinners through the airbrush between colours, before cleaning with airbrush cleaner solvent at the end of a session (before stripping the airbrush down and cleaning up with a pipe cleaner). 

However I have no experience of cleaning up acrylics (other than knowing they dry quicker and are a pain to shift).

 

Is it just a case of running a couple of cups of water through the airbrush after each coat? Before doing the usual scrub down with pipe cleaners at the end of a session?

 

I guess I really ought to buy some acrylic airbrush cleaner next time I see Eileen’s at a show (which no doubt wont be until Bristol in May. 

 

Are there any other things to be aware of spraying acrylics, especially regarding air pressure etc?  I am looking forward to being able to use the paint straight from the bottle (I really wish someone would commission Vallejo to produce a true range of UK rail paints!)

[michl080]

I agree it might be best to get a bottle of airbrush cleaner. However, if you want to start immediately, household glass cleaner will most likely be a good alternative. I feel that water is not removing all paint from my airbrush.

 

Michael

[ELTEL]

Have just finished a session weathering a few wagon with acrylics my method is as follows.

 

1. A good rinse through with plenty of tap water.

2. A tissue over the nozzle and pull the trigger to dislodge any paint particles and empty into your waste jar (do not try to blow     it through the nozzle (I repeat the above a few times and clean the bowl)

3. Repeat the process with acrylic thinners a couple of times  (just a few drops)

4. I tend to remove the needle and use the acrylic to make sure it’s clean.

5. You should then be ready to go with another colour 

 

Works for me 

 

Terry 

[lyneux]

Steps 1&2 from Terry’s list for me. I only do 3&4 at the end of the session.

 

Guy

[Paul_in_Ricky]

Most acrylic thinners and brush cleaners are a mix of clean (distilled) water(about two thirds), IPA (a third) with the addition of some flow enhancer which acts as a detergent.

DIY a batch for a fraction of the commercial product.
Search You Tube and you'll find plenty of recipes that will work fine and plenty of cleaning tutorials too.

 

[brossard]

I use IPA from the pharmacy for cleaning my airbrush.  Acrylic may dry in the nozzle so I use Tamiya Retarder which slows down the drying so that the paint can actually exit the nozzle as a liquid.

 

John

[The Fatadder]

Thanks all, I have a bottle of 70% strength ipa so will use that for the final clean after blasting through some water.  
 

How long do you have before you start having issues with paint drying on internals?  My usual approach is to spray a batch of 4 or 5 items, give it a quick blast with the hair dryer and then spray another coat.  This time it will just be the one model, and being yellow I expect it to need several coats.
 

 Do I need to spray both sides, run water through the airbrush before using the hair dryer on the model and then spraying the next thin coat? 
 

On a similar topic, does anyone have a good match in the Vallejo range for EWS red and gold?

Edited January 8, 2020 by The Fatadder

[ColinK]

I would spray both sides, then clean the airbrush. Wait 30 to 60 minutes then spray the next coat.

[kandc_au]

Rich,

When I first looked up about spraying acrylics, I found this article and have not looked back.
Covers cleaning and thinning!

 

Khris

 

 

[JimFin]

A tip when you have finished a session is to get an ultrasonic cleaner. They come up at Aldi (probably other places as well) for £19.99 or a lot less if you are patient. Marketed as a jewellery cleaner. Strip the airbrush down, chuck it in the bath for about 90 seconds and it will be perfect.

 

17 hours ago, The Fatadder said:

On a similar topic, does anyone have a good match in the Vallejo range for EWS red and gold?

 

Not exactly but this might help if you can find either the RAL codes or another known match. 

 

http://www.creativemodels.co.uk/paint_conversion.php?manufacturers_id=2

[The Fatadder]

Thanks for all the advice, managed to spray the yellow last night and the grey this morning (so just black to be sprayed tomorrow).  Really pleased with the Model Air paint, really wish they did a UK rail range as for ease of use nothing else comes close!

 

[irishmail]

On ‎08‎/‎01‎/‎2020 at 11:12, The Fatadder said:

Looking at the weather forecast the outside temperature at the weekend is looking to be just about in range for spraying (so with the garage heaters on it will be fine), so I want to get on with spraying 37230.  The main body grey will be sprayed with an aerosol (Plastikote) along with Halfords Satin Black for the bonnet/windows, however the yellow stripe will need airbrushing.  Normally I would use Phoenix enamels for spraying, but where possible I am now trying to use acrylics.  To that end I have a bottle of Vallejo “Model Air” in a shade which I am told is a close match for warning yellow, it will be sprayed over white primer. 

 

Where I am a little unclear is the cleaning.  Normally I would blast a cup of thinners through the airbrush between colours, before cleaning with airbrush cleaner solvent at the end of a session (before stripping the airbrush down and cleaning up with a pipe cleaner). 

However I have no experience of cleaning up acrylics (other than knowing they dry quicker and are a pain to shift).

 

Is it just a case of running a couple of cups of water through the airbrush after each coat? Before doing the usual scrub down with pipe cleaners at the end of a session?

 

I guess I really ought to buy some acrylic airbrush cleaner next time I see Eileen’s at a show (which no doubt wont be until Bristol in May. 

 

Are there any other things to be aware of spraying acrylics, especially regarding air pressure etc?  I am looking forward to being able to use the paint straight from the bottle (I really wish someone would commission Vallejo to produce a true range of UK rail paints!)

Hi,

What is the reference No. for the Vallejo yellow please?   I have recently started using the Vallejo acrylic paints  mainly the Model Colour so far but would like to try their Model Air range.

 

Regards, John

[JimFin]

41 minutes ago, irishmail said:

Hi,

What is the reference No. for the Vallejo yellow please?   I have recently started using the Vallejo acrylic paints  mainly the Model Colour so far but would like to try their Model Air range.

 

Regards, John

John, probably Val002, Model Air yellow which corresponds to RAL 1003 "Signal Yellow" which was an approved colour for loco warning panels but I am sure The Fatadder can confirm. Again, you might find this link helpful - http://www.creativemodels.co.uk/paint_conversion.php/manufacturers_id/2/page/1 

[The Fatadder]

That’s the one 71.135 chrome yellow (RAL1003)

 

will not be using anything else for earning yellow now.  
 

I wish I had started looking at these years ago pre children when the modelling budget could stand just buying a huge bunch of different shades and testing vs the Phoenix equivalent.  I’m sure there must be other close matches in their range.
 

finding something that matches Intercity coaches and EWS red/gold are my first priority’s.   Then GWR loco green will be next once my Phoenix tin runs out.

 

[57xx]

On 09/01/2020 at 05:56, kandc_au said:

Rich,

When I first looked up about spraying acrylics, I found this article and have not looked back.
Covers cleaning and thinning!

 

Khris

 

 

 

I made my acrylic thinners from this video too. There is also one about making a cleaner which is stronger on the IPA and also has a drop of glycerine in to help lubricate the airbrush.

[kandc_au]

12 hours ago, 57xx said:

 

I made my acrylic thinners from this video too. There is also one about making a cleaner which is stronger on the IPA and also has a drop of glycerine in to help lubricate the airbrush.

57xx,
By the same mob or someone else?
Do you have a link....like to have a sticky?

Khris

[Metr0Land]

Only thing I would add to all of the above is that I take the needle out of my airbrushes when I've finshed a session, and re-insert days/weeks later for the next session.

[kandc_au]

10 minutes ago, Metr0Land said:

Only thing I would add to all of the above is that I take the needle out of my airbrushes when I've finshed a session, and re-insert days/weeks later for the next session.

Can I ask why?
Never heard that before and wondering about benefits of it!
Khris

[Metr0Land]

3 hours ago, kandc_au said:

Can I ask why?
Never heard that before and wondering about benefits of it!
Khris

 

I've found that occasionally bits of paint have got behind where the cup feeds paint in, and normal cleaning doesn't flush it out.  When trying to use the airbrush after a few weeks out of use it's a bit stuck whereas poking the needle in from afresh clears it ok.  Some people leave the needle in, but put something like vaseline along this section of the needle I believe.

 

 

[57xx]

12 hours ago, kandc_au said:

57xx,
By the same mob or someone else?
Do you have a link....like to have a sticky?

 

I can't remember at the moment, I watched many vids at the time a couple of years back. I'll see if I can dig it out again.