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Dapol Class 21 Instruction manual/sheet


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I have just received my D6120, and after (very) a long wait, I am rather pleased to have the model in my hands at last!

 First impressions are very favourable, it is running in on a rolling road as we speak. However, I am rather surprised by the lack of documentation provided with the model. I received two printed sheets, one dealing with the no-quibble guarantee, the second with DCC decoder settings. Nothing on placement of detailing parts, lubrication, body removal etc. My class 21s came with a comprehensive service book, is something missing from my class 21 box?

Cheers from Oz,

Peter C.

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Hi Peter. My Dapol D6121 came with exactly the same paperwork as yours. I guessed that the body was only clipped on - it came off quite easily after spreading the bases of the sides slightly.

Like you, I think it would have been helpful if Dapol had included a sheet showing which detail parts are supposed to go where.

I installed a Dapol Imperium 21-pin decoder in mine, and it worked all of the functions without my having to modify any settings. As a matter of convention to fit in with all of my other locos and units, I do alter CVs 3 and 4 to values of 25 and 18, respectively, because I like a lot of inertia and momentum.

Edited by SRman
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Addendum: I have fitted the detail pipes but left off the screw couplings. The ends of each of the supplied pipes are differently shaped and fit only on the correct recesses in the buffer beam. I left one end fully detailed (so I should fit the screw coupling as well!) with no tension lock coupling fitted, and snipped off the pipes closest to the centre on the other end to allow the coupling to swing from side to side - the pipes were snipped roughly level with the bse of the buffer beam, so there are partial pipes there but they can't interfere with the coupling.

49366310377_5c2ba93925_b.jpg
P_20200111_192555_vHDR_On by Jeffrey Lynn, on Flickr

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  • 3 years later...
On 13/01/2020 at 04:58, stewartingram said:

What is the strange headcode trying to represent?

 

Sorry I missed your question, Stewart, it represents (or was supposed to represent) a cross-London goods to the Southern Region via the West London Line ... however, one of the discs is in the wrong place, it should be in the centre rather than over a buffer.

Apologies for answering three and a half years late.

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  • 2 months later...
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On 17/10/2023 at 00:36, SRman said:

 

Sorry I missed your question, Stewart, it represents (or was supposed to represent) a cross-London goods to the Southern Region via the West London Line ... however, one of the discs is in the wrong place, it should be in the centre rather than over a buffer.

Apologies for answering three and a half years late.

A bit late to ask, but how did you work out the holes, for the head code disc s?  There are no holes or even indentations on my (D6116) body shell to indicate where they go?

 

Cheers

 

Bob C

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Without looking at mine I can't remember if there were any holes. But the easy way is this:

The (real) discs are 2 halves which fold about the centre horizontal line. The bottom half has a hole for the marker light to shine through. So, align the disc hole with the light, ensure the fold line is above it and horizontal, and that is it.

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1 hour ago, stewartingram said:

Without looking at mine I can't remember if there were any holes. But the easy way is this:

The (real) discs are 2 halves which fold about the centre horizontal line. The bottom half has a hole for the marker light to shine through. So, align the disc hole with the light, ensure the fold line is above it and horizontal, and that is it.

Ahh right thanks, so there are no holes etc to work with then.  Sounds like a blob of glue and position as required then.  What type of glue did you use?

 

Many thanks

 

Bob C

Edited by Blobrick
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4 hours ago, Blobrick said:

Ahh right thanks, so there are no holes etc to work with then.  Sounds like a blob of glue and position as required then.  What type of glue did you use?

 

Many thanks

 

Bob C

 

I usually use a PVA style glue, such as Glue n Glaze. This dries clear, excess can be wiped off with water, and it is still easy enough to remove again even when dry if one changes one's mind as to the positioning of the discs.

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