commsbloke Posted May 19, 2020 Author Share Posted May 19, 2020 Tonight two little steps forward and then four back. Remember this picture Tonight I continued with the brake gear brackets. Many of the rods and levers are etched in a single piece. I fitted this etch into the bracket circled in red an temporarily pinned with some brass rod. Next I worked on two brackets to the left of the red circled one. Each one was pinned temporarily as before. It was soon obvious that the bracket in red was in the wrong place. I believe that the last two levers at each end of the etch should be in-line or at least symmetrical with the pips (circled yellow). The red bracket needs to move to the right. Luckily this time I did not need the big hammer but the big pliers sufficed. Finally the vacuum pipe will be in the way of this bracket so that had to be removed too. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
commsbloke Posted May 21, 2020 Author Share Posted May 21, 2020 Moving along nicely now. This is a dry run, all held together with pins from brass rod at the moment. On to soldering tomorrow. I am not happy with version two of the brake pipe though. Version 1 was too thin and the diagonal section between the frame members was in the way of the V hangers and brake bracket Version 2 is great for diameter however its a long way from the cylinder and I need to get the vacuum to it. Any thoughts? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted May 21, 2020 Share Posted May 21, 2020 (edited) Drill a 0.9mm hole in the cylinder. Bend some wire and then trim to length until it touches the pipe. Solder to the pipe, CA to the cylinder. The picture I posted above shows this and if you look closely you might see it despite my lousy photography. BTW, I much prefer brass tube for this job than plastic. John Edited May 21, 2020 by brossard Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
commsbloke Posted May 21, 2020 Author Share Posted May 21, 2020 2 minutes ago, brossard said: Drill a 0.9mm hole in the cylinder. Bend some wire and then trim to length until it touches the pipe. Solder to the pipe, CA to the cylinder. Thanks, but i have run the brake line down the frame member away from the cylinder. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
commsbloke Posted May 22, 2020 Author Share Posted May 22, 2020 Sorted Vacuum pipe version 3 now runs next to the cylinder. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted May 22, 2020 Share Posted May 22, 2020 Ha ha, that was going through my mind. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike hughes Posted May 22, 2020 Share Posted May 22, 2020 Never thought of putting wire though the brackets, just minor thing don't forget to on the axleguards to drill out the small hole on the rear as these are the horse hook holes (so I believe) These are normally at the outer ends of the wagon Michael 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
commsbloke Posted May 22, 2020 Author Share Posted May 22, 2020 3 hours ago, mike hughes said: Never thought of putting wire though the brackets, I am not sure that I would do it again, it was probably not worth the effort. Now it may be me, and judging by my recent posts most likely is me, but I found that the long brake rod and lever fret did not perfectly match the positions of the brackets. I would be interested to hear other's opinions. What I definitely know now is start with the outside brackets as these positively locate against the chassis cross members. Starting with the middle bracket can easily lead to a world of pain. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted May 22, 2020 Share Posted May 22, 2020 Brakes in general can easily lead to a world of pain. John 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Hal Nail Posted May 22, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 22, 2020 4 hours ago, mike hughes said: These are the horse hook holes (so I believe) I've often wondered what these were. No pattern I've ever worked out why they were sometimes on the inside. Maybe they recycled guards for use on repairs and by then the hole was redundant so it didn't matter where it ended up? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
commsbloke Posted May 23, 2020 Author Share Posted May 23, 2020 Did anyone spot one of the W irons was on the wrong way round? I don't know how I did that all the W irons on the Vanwide look good This is definitely a learning experience. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
commsbloke Posted May 23, 2020 Author Share Posted May 23, 2020 (edited) Moving along nicely Vacuum feed fitted Brake linkages soldered up, pins clipped, and soldering tidied up Wrong way round W iron removed and refitted. Vacuum side W irons fitted Wheels and bearings fitted, Springs and axle boxes fitted Brake shoes fitted I know it is usual to fit the brake pull-rods before this time but I will shorten the locating pins and fit them next. Oh forgot to mention that the holes were drilled in the W irons. Thanks Mike Great reference photo here https://flic.kr/p/REjzDV Edited May 23, 2020 by commsbloke 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike hughes Posted May 25, 2020 Share Posted May 25, 2020 On 22/05/2020 at 22:33, Hal Nail said: I've often wondered what these were. No pattern I've ever worked out why they were sometimes on the inside. Maybe they recycled guards for use on repairs and by then the hole was redundant so it didn't matter where it ended up? Illustrated history of Br wagons volume 1 says about these in a photo. Have seen photos of these with holes towards the centre of wagon as well, they may of swapped the axleguards whilst having attention, who knows? Michael 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
commsbloke Posted May 25, 2020 Author Share Posted May 25, 2020 Pull rod ends shortened on one-side Fitted and soldered to the levers. 3 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted May 25, 2020 Share Posted May 25, 2020 Looks very good. Hard bit done I think, the top should be a doddle. John 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Adrian Stevenson Posted May 25, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 25, 2020 You had done a nice job. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baggies1961 Posted May 25, 2020 Share Posted May 25, 2020 Excellent job is that. Regards Julian. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
commsbloke Posted May 27, 2020 Author Share Posted May 27, 2020 I'm not quite on to the top part yet John. Today solebar brackets, brake handle guide, brake handle and linkages. I am not sure it was worth the effort to make this joint workable, Especially the half hour spent rescuing this tiny washer from the carpet monster. Other side to to tomorrow. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluestag Posted May 29, 2020 Share Posted May 29, 2020 On 19/01/2020 at 04:22, Fastdax said: Here's another option as I used on my (unpainted) vanwide: It's the etched brass compensation unit on the near axle which allows this axle to pivot from side-to-side. The far axle is glued solid to make a 3-point compensation system. Who made that compensation kit? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted May 29, 2020 Share Posted May 29, 2020 I'm in the process of a rescue project for 3 WR wagons, one unfitted van (V33), a fitted van (V36) and a fitted open (O33), all Parkside. These were very badly built so I decided to use Bill Bedford sprung W irons: (https://eileensemporium.com/index.php?option=com_hikashop&ctrl=category&task=listing&cid=1289&name=7mm-components&Itemid=189) The V33 also got BB 9' WB brakes. Perversely there are no 10' WB brakes in the range, so I've to cobble something together from various bits and bobs. Slaters do sprung W irons too, different concept but they work well. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fastdax Posted May 29, 2020 Share Posted May 29, 2020 1 hour ago, bluestag said: Who made that compensation kit? I'm fairly sure they were these: I can't remember how I got hold of them. Prolly Ebay. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluestag Posted May 30, 2020 Share Posted May 30, 2020 12 hours ago, Fastdax said: I'm fairly sure they were these: I can't remember how I got hold of them. Prolly Ebay. Huh. Anther SMALL supplier. Just classic 4mm rocking axle w irons blown up. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Hal Nail Posted May 30, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 30, 2020 I've got some of these with the price still on - £9.50 for 4. CRT Kits do similar at £2.50 for one wagon with some useful bits included and WEP also use the same approach I think. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
commsbloke Posted May 31, 2020 Author Share Posted May 31, 2020 A fine day for rattle-can priming in the garden. Halfords grey primer for the underside and Tamiya oxide red fine surface primer for the body parts. Masking tape was used where the body meets the chassis. Body ends attached Body sides attached Now as my old dad would say "We're all there bar the shouting" 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baggies1961 Posted May 31, 2020 Share Posted May 31, 2020 Looking good always liked this type of wagon, you've done a grand job. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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