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Rookie Workbench (Slater's Lowfit)


commsbloke
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Tonight two little steps forward and then four back.

 

Remember this  pictureP5168529x.jpg.dac4cf6ea7b2d009294b96673c4b5315.jpg

Tonight I continued with the brake gear brackets. Many of the rods and levers are etched in a single piece. I fitted this etch into the bracket circled in red an temporarily pinned with some brass rod.

Next I worked on two brackets to the left of the red circled one. Each one was pinned temporarily as before. It was soon obvious that the bracket in red was in the wrong place. I believe that the last two levers at each end of the etch should be in-line or at least symmetrical with the pips (circled yellow).

The red bracket needs to move to the right. Luckily this time I did not need the big hammer but the big pliers sufficed.

Finally the vacuum pipe will be in the way of this bracket so that had to be removed too.

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Moving along nicely now.

P5218600.jpg.69eb585fe6906b9acee46fd70dc70fb2.jpg

 

This is a dry run, all held together with pins from brass rod at the moment.
On to soldering tomorrow.

I am not happy with version two of the brake pipe though.
Version 1 was too thin and the diagonal section between the frame members was in the way of the V hangers and brake bracket
Version 2 is great for diameter however its a long way from the cylinder and I need to get the vacuum to it. Any thoughts?

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Drill a 0.9mm hole in the cylinder.  Bend some wire and then trim to length until it touches the pipe.  Solder to the pipe, CA to the cylinder.

 

The picture I posted above shows this and if you look closely you might see it despite my lousy photography.

 

BTW, I much prefer brass tube for this job than plastic.

 

John

Edited by brossard
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2 minutes ago, brossard said:

Drill a 0.9mm hole in the cylinder.  Bend some wire and then trim to length until it touches the pipe.  Solder to the pipe, CA to the cylinder.

 

 

Thanks, but i have run the brake line down the frame member away from the cylinder.

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Never thought of putting wire though the brackets, just minor thing don't forget to on the axleguards to drill out the small hole on the rear as these are the horse hook holes (so I believe) These are normally at the outer ends of the wagon

 

Michael

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3 hours ago, mike hughes said:

Never thought of putting wire though the brackets,

 

I am not sure  that I would do it again, it was probably not worth the effort.

Now it may be me, and judging by my recent posts most likely is me, but I found that the long brake rod and lever fret did not perfectly match the positions of the brackets.
I would be interested to hear other's opinions.

What I definitely know now is start with the outside brackets as these positively locate against the chassis cross members. Starting with the middle bracket can easily lead to a world of pain.

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4 hours ago, mike hughes said:

These are the horse hook holes (so I believe)

I've often wondered what these were. No pattern I've ever worked out why they were sometimes on the inside. Maybe they recycled guards for use on repairs and by then the hole was redundant so it didn't matter where it ended up?

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Moving along nicely
Vacuum feed fitted
Brake linkages soldered up, pins clipped, and soldering tidied up
Wrong way round W iron removed and refitted.
Vacuum side W irons fitted
Wheels and bearings fitted,
Springs and axle boxes fitted
Brake shoes fitted
p5230534.jpg.216c8d85b5278fea8948bdc44969bec0.jpg

I know it is usual to fit the brake pull-rods before this time but I will shorten the locating pins and fit them next.

Oh forgot to mention that the holes were drilled in the W irons.
Thanks Mike

Great reference photo here

https://flic.kr/p/REjzDV 

 

 

 

Edited by commsbloke
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On ‎22‎/‎05‎/‎2020 at 22:33, Hal Nail said:

I've often wondered what these were. No pattern I've ever worked out why they were sometimes on the inside. Maybe they recycled guards for use on repairs and by then the hole was redundant so it didn't matter where it ended up?

Illustrated history of Br wagons volume 1 says about these in a photo. Have seen photos of these with holes towards the centre of wagon as well, they may of swapped the axleguards whilst having attention, who knows?

 

Michael

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I'm not quite on to the top part yet John.

Today solebar brackets, brake handle guide, brake handle and linkages.

 

I am not sure it was worth the effort to make this joint workable,

p5278654.jpg.e095e7e18f0f3770edf25419c071a682.jpg

 

Especially the half hour spent rescuing this tiny washer from the carpet monster.
P5278651.jpg.5e1fd93bbd40c1c280adb4ffe28da5f5.jpg


Other side to to tomorrow.

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On 19/01/2020 at 04:22, Fastdax said:

 

Here's another option as I used on my (unpainted) vanwide:

 

1734109673_2020-01-19002.JPG.14985f7d958881850a8bacec8118a7d5.JPG

 

It's the etched brass compensation unit on the near axle which allows this axle to pivot from side-to-side. The far axle is glued solid to make a 3-point compensation system.

 

Who made that compensation kit?

 

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I'm in the process of a rescue project for 3 WR wagons, one unfitted van (V33), a fitted van (V36) and a fitted open (O33), all Parkside.

 

These were very badly built so I decided to use Bill Bedford sprung W irons: (https://eileensemporium.com/index.php?option=com_hikashop&ctrl=category&task=listing&cid=1289&name=7mm-components&Itemid=189)

 

The V33 also got BB 9' WB brakes.  Perversely there are no 10' WB brakes in the range, so I've to cobble something together from various bits and bobs.

 

Slaters do sprung W irons too, different concept but they work well.

 

John

 

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12 hours ago, Fastdax said:

 

I'm fairly sure they were these:

 

1375762952_2020-05-29004.JPG.0428d4d68d3c68439e6ae28d5c656526.JPG

 

I can't remember how I got hold of them. Prolly Ebay.

 

 

Huh.   Anther SMALL supplier.    Just classic 4mm rocking axle w irons blown up.

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I've got some of these with the price still on - £9.50 for 4.  

CRT Kits do similar at £2.50 for one wagon with some useful bits included and WEP also use the same approach I think.

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A fine day for rattle-can priming in the garden.
Halfords grey primer for the underside and Tamiya oxide red fine surface primer for the body parts.

Masking tape was used where the body meets the chassis.
P5318738.jpg.47d2b105085c6b251fd701d7584e1b10.jpg

Body ends attached

Body sides attached
Now as my old dad would say "We're all there bar the shouting"
P5310540.jpg.eaa802b277bc7cc8143d5cf9597794ef.jpg

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